740rwhp 93 octane TRX write up

I laughed really hard when I read this post. Thank you, in all honesty, laughter is one of the best parts of life. Then I read the content after the definitions of “stage” tunes and I laughed some more.

There are no “stages” with tuning…. Or even stages for anything. It’s a made up term by parts companies to make money off idiots like you that don’t know a damn thing about cars/tuning (want me to link to a page showing stage 1-5 brake packages for the TRX that don’t even upgrade the calipers?). When you setup a tune for max effort or for dd reliability then you are talking about how conservative or aggressive the timing and fuel map is…there are no stages. It really comes down to how much timing you pull off the peak allowed with KR.

If you’re cracking open the PCM then you’re going to look at and adjust fuel, airflow, spark (all versus throttle or load), coolant temps, fan settings, etc…regardless of whether you have an “upper pulley or injectors.” Hellcat motors run rich and any tuner is going to lean out the fuel even on stock injectors. What about the guy running a 10% lower but no upper? Is that a stage 1 or stage 2? 🤦‍♂️ if you crack open the TCM map then you’re looking at a minimum at line pressures, shift time and torque management tables. What about FSO (on or off)? Let’s not forget the random stuff like emissions and cat overtemp protection.

You are the definition of car illiterate and every time you post you bring down the IQ of this forum.

Grab a time slip or STFU. I’ll grab the dragy data on the chiller for everyone since you’re too

I laughed really hard when I read this post. Thank you, in all honesty, laughter is one of the best parts of life. Then I read the content after the definitions of “stage” tunes and I laughed some more.

There are no “stages” with tuning…. Or even stages for anything. It’s a made up term by parts companies to make money off idiots like you that don’t know a damn thing about cars/tuning (want me to link to a page showing stage 1-5 brake packages for the TRX that don’t even upgrade the calipers?). When you setup a tune for max effort or for dd reliability then you are talking about how conservative or aggressive the timing and fuel map is…there are no stages. It really comes down to how much timing you pull off the peak allowed with KR.

If you’re cracking open the PCM then you’re going to look at and adjust fuel, airflow, spark (all versus throttle or load), coolant temps, fan settings, etc…regardless of whether you have an “upper pulley or injectors.” Hellcat motors run rich and any tuner is going to lean out the fuel even on stock injectors. What about the guy running a 10% lower but no upper? Is that a stage 1 or stage 2? 🤦‍♂️ if you crack open the TCM map then you’re looking at a minimum at line pressures, shift time and torque management tables. What about FSO (on or off)? Let’s not forget the random stuff like emissions and cat overtemp protection.

You are the definition of car illiterate and every time you post you bring down the IQ of this forum.

Grab a time slip or STFU. I’ll grab the dragy data on the chiller for everyone since you’re too scared.
Glad you’re laughing, it’s good for you. 💪🫡 thanks for the explanation, but I didn’t ask. 🤐 I’m car illeterate, but money talks, so I’ll keep buying them and posting in their respective forums. 🚀
 
My TRX faster than all your TRX combined
Although our 22' 🦖 is stock other than exhaust, our kids/buddies taunt other drivers at lights during daily 🚌 commute.

They accept all challengers and like to wave launching from stoplights. To date...UNDEFEATED :ROFLMAO: 🦖
 

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Although our 22' 🦖 is stock other than exhaust, our kids/buddies taunt other drivers at lights during daily 🚌 commute.

They accept all challengers and like to wave launching from stoplights. To date...UNDEFEATED :ROFLMAO: 🦖
Love it. Make my heart melt. Petrol heads for life hopefully!
 
Although our 22' 🦖 is stock other than exhaust, our kids/buddies taunt other drivers at lights during daily 🚌 commute.

They accept all challengers and like to wave launching from stoplights. To date...UNDEFEATED :ROFLMAO: 🦖
This is f’n great, that is some good upbringing. The kids will always remember this, even after you can’t anymore!
I have toned down my driving style a little because of some hate on the Nextdoor app (old people :sneaky:). I am getting about 7.9 mpg which is way better than I got the first two years (6.8) :). But my kiddos alway let me know when someone is passing me.
 
This is f’n great, that is some good upbringing. The kids will always remember this, even after you can’t anymore!
I have toned down my driving style a little because of some hate on the Nextdoor app (old people :sneaky:). I am getting about 7.9 mpg which is way better than I got the first two years (6.8) :). But my kiddos alway let me know when someone is passing me.
You sound just like me. I’m finally in the 8s from the low 7s.

My little dude tells me “let er rip tater chip” all the time. So I blame him for the bad mileage.
 
I am not ready to purchase the chiller yet (truck is 100% stock) I was curious though if anyone has ran just the 3 gallon tank without the chiller and if they saw any benefit in cooling/lower temp reading? I really would like to do the whole thing but need to save for it.
 
Define a “stage 1 tune” for all of us along with what makes a “stage 2 tune” then?

So if someone does the same hardware mods as you, but doesn’t have the same tune unless they literally copy your tune file, are you going to admit that their numbers are just as valid as yours? Or are you going to claim then that the magic must be in the tune?

(Again your use of emojis is creepy… you’re making Texans look bad)
He made Texans look bad when he opened this thread.

Glad you’re laughing, it’s good for you. 💪🫡 thanks for the explanation, but I didn’t ask. 🤐 I’m car illeterate, but money talks, so I’ll keep buying them and posting in their respective forums. 🚀
Money might talk, but BS walks...and you're running.
 
I am not ready to purchase the chiller yet (truck is 100% stock) I was curious though if anyone has ran just the 3 gallon tank without the chiller and if they saw any benefit in cooling/lower temp reading? I really would like to do the whole thing but need to save for it.
Expansion tank without a chiller won’t lower IC temps. It will slow their rate of climb during a pull but also makes it take longer to drop them back down. You slow the process of both heat soak and recovery.
 
All,

I wanted to provide a comprehensive overview of my current build. I have a 2023 Lunar edition with 4k miles. I did the typical "warranty safe" mods such as FAS lower pulley, corsa exhaust, SB intake. I was happy with those mods, and my previous truck with the same mods dyno'd 627rwhp. My aux coolant pump went out on my new truck, and i attributed that to the texas summer heat. I decided to take a chance and purchase a chiller kit. I went with what i believe to be the VERY BEST kit on the market, the FI chiller stage 2 kit. My understanding with these motors is that they run hot, and the IAT sensor is in the absolute worst place possible. We lose A LOT of power to heat, especially in the warmer climates. My original intention was to leave the truck untuned, but i eventually changed my mind, ill explain why below.

After installing the chiller, i was getting cooler IC coolant, about 10-15 degrees below ambient. On the highway i was over ambient, about where the factory cooling would be. In FI's instructions they CLEARLY state to turn up the aux pump to 100% and alter the fan speeds to extract the full benefits from the chiller. I waited about a week, was generally satisfied but knew there was more on the table. I reached out to Shawn Liger with Hammer built performance and asked him to set me up with a stage 1 tune, most importantly because i needed the AUX pump turned up and the fan speeds changed to the prescribed table by FI.

After installing the tune, the chiller was working much better than no tune, which makes sense because the stock aux pump setting in auto is 36%, where after the tune its 100%. More water moving = less heat.

Fast forward to wednesday, i had the opportunity to put the truck on JMS Racing Mainline hub dyno. I was BLOWN away with the results. I had the chiller in race mode, and on a 72 degree day, my IC coolant was 26 degrees. We did a pull, and i managed 739.6rwhp in 5th gear.

I did not touch my blower, my pulley, my injectors. I didnt port anything, didnt ask for any special tunes, just something safe that anyone could obtain. To my knowledge there is 0 comparable data from anyone else. I've attached photos. I understand this isnt AWD as we dropped the front drive shaft, but the numbers are incredible regardless.

my truck stock dynod 562rwhp.
Appreciate your license plates :)
 
Expansion tank without a chiller won’t lower IC temps. It will slow their rate of climb during a pull but also makes it take longer to drop them back down. You slow the process of both heat soak and recovery.
What about chiller only - no tank? Would that be enough to do a quick 0-60 without pulling timing?
 
I get your point but patience is also reserved for those that deserve it. When the comments out the gate were condescending about “the op is clearly the only man on earth to think outside the box” to make this power level…. plus …. the inability to actually take the time to understand the math on why his dyno sheet is physically impossible from a conservation of energy standpoint then I’m not going to waste my breathe trying to be gentle and supportive. Others tried that route in this thread and his response was that they need to prove him wrong.

Combustion (stoichiometry) provides the absolute limits of hp per unit fuel and air. It’s not hard to calculate that his 180hp+ gain (890 chp +) is not feasible on 600cc injectors. Doesn’t matter how cold the air is… even if he was able to magically produce the CFM to make that HP, the fuel system could not keep up at the AFR that this motor commands. This is stuff that I know you understand and is as undeniable as gravity… yet the OP wants to say that dyno numbers somehow trump physics. We both know thats laughable given a dyno can be manipulated to read plus or minus 20% with just environmental variables. So how do you handle someone who is passionate about their opinion without actually understanding anything about the topic?

Not single person in this thread believes the OP and the requests to prove it with actual data that matters via a time slip or draggy are just going to be denied because of the threat of proving the OPs claim wrong. I’m sure if someone made the exact build and dyno'd less then he would claim the difference was in the tune. Some folks just lack common sense and aren’t worth the time. Others have done FI interchillers with an entire range of pulleys on this same motor and get 30-50whp out of the chiller. Plenty of dyno sheets out there to prove it. I’m sure the OP got that gain too. If he actually made 740whp then you really wasted a lot of money on a built motor and whipple 😳
Just to be clear, I was referring to the initial response you gave. Everyhing after that....



Appreciate your insight and contribution @AZDinoPwr
 
What about chiller only - no tank? Would that be enough to do a quick 0-60 without pulling timing?
Yup, should be no issue. I’ll be curious to see the data on IC temps at the end of 1/4 mile pulls with the chiller on and off.
 
Glad you’re laughing, it’s good for you. 💪🫡 thanks for the explanation, but I didn’t ask. 🤐 I’m car illeterate, but money talks, so I’ll keep buying them and posting in their respective forums. 🚀
1701358200676.webp

I anoint you Queen Troll
 
You sound just like me. I’m finally in the 8s from the low 7s.

My little dude tells me “let er rip tater chip” all the time. So I blame him for the bad mileage.
i'm still on stock tune with lower pulley intake and been sitting at 8.1mpg lol
 
i'm still on stock tune with lower pulley intake and been sitting at 8.1mpg lol
In all stock engine wise. 37s and a heavy foot don’t help.
 

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