740rwhp 93 octane TRX write up

This thread is like herpes, it keeps flaring up, you wish you didn't have to deal with it but you do. You can't ignore it either so you keep coming back for more. No doubt Scuba has a sweet truck but his pride keeps him from accepting facts presented to him in plain English. DISCLAIMER: I have no dog in this fight at all, I'm merely a spectator.
 
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I stole this from the Ripatuned thread but thought it suits this one aswell.

Anything is possible with
 

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All,

I wanted to provide a comprehensive overview of my current build. I have a 2023 Lunar edition with 4k miles. I did the typical "warranty safe" mods such as FAS lower pulley, corsa exhaust, SB intake. I was happy with those mods, and my previous truck with the same mods dyno'd 627rwhp. My aux coolant pump went out on my new truck, and i attributed that to the texas summer heat. I decided to take a chance and purchase a chiller kit. I went with what i believe to be the VERY BEST kit on the market, the FI chiller stage 2 kit. My understanding with these motors is that they run hot, and the IAT sensor is in the absolute worst place possible. We lose A LOT of power to heat, especially in the warmer climates. My original intention was to leave the truck untuned, but i eventually changed my mind, ill explain why below.

After installing the chiller, i was getting cooler IC coolant, about 10-15 degrees below ambient. On the highway i was over ambient, about where the factory cooling would be. In FI's instructions they CLEARLY state to turn up the aux pump to 100% and alter the fan speeds to extract the full benefits from the chiller. I waited about a week, was generally satisfied but knew there was more on the table. I reached out to Shawn Liger with Hammer built performance and asked him to set me up with a stage 1 tune, most importantly because i needed the AUX pump turned up and the fan speeds changed to the prescribed table by FI.

After installing the tune, the chiller was working much better than no tune, which makes sense because the stock aux pump setting in auto is 36%, where after the tune its 100%. More water moving = less heat.

Fast forward to wednesday, i had the opportunity to put the truck on JMS Racing Mainline hub dyno. I was BLOWN away with the results. I had the chiller in race mode, and on a 72 degree day, my IC coolant was 26 degrees. We did a pull, and i managed 739.6rwhp in 5th gear.

I did not touch my blower, my pulley, my injectors. I didnt port anything, didnt ask for any special tunes, just something safe that anyone could obtain. To my knowledge there is 0 comparable data from anyone else. I've attached photos. I understand this isnt AWD as we dropped the front drive shaft, but the numbers are incredible regardless.

my truck stock dynod 562rwhp.
Hey man what would you say made the biggest difference out of all the mods you've installed? I just got a Wilwood big break kit I also want to pull the trigger on the carbon fiber hood not to sure if it's worth it though, sick truck by the way dude😎
 
bro imagine thinking that Hammer performance is in San Antonio texas. Also, ive posted with correction factors on and off. You can't manipulate any values on a HUB dyno. You are hurt because you have never worked on a mainline, nor been exposed to one and ive challenged your intelligence (lack there of) and now you've become absorbed to the point that you reached out to places that sold me parts, did my tune, and are scrambling for explanations. The amount of pain your in is akin to someone in bankruptcy court. I cant imagine being so hurt. My numbers were always accurate, albeit with a corrective factor in place, they are still accurate and you still couldnt do simple math and figure it out. The expert was outshone by the apprentice. It must bug the real car dudes that a mickey mouse car guy can afford the parts, vehicles and time to banter. ;)
I quite literally worked at a shop in college with both a hub dyno and roller dynojet. Both can be manipulated. Even to this day you keep writing “whp” when now you are arguing that none of it is actually whp. It’s now hub hp. So both your reading comprehension and ability to write in English suck. Yes I know that Hammer and JMS are in different locations but your tuner knows more than the shop that just took your wheels off and on. They all already admitted your numbers aren’t real. I love you talking about the SAE correction factor now for DA like it’s something you discovered even though I posted it on page 1 for you.

Normally if someone on the forum started questioning my intelligence I would point them to my patents, undergrad and graduate degrees in aerospace engineering and my successful career full of accomplishments contributing to society. But honestly stupid people bore me and you…yawn.

Go live in whatever fairy dust land you want. You probably think women can be dudes too. If you decide to stop being a pussy then let me know when you are down for the $10k race I challenged you to last month.
 
I quite literally worked at a shop in college with both a hub dyno and roller dynojet. Both can be manipulated. Even to this day you keep writing “whp” when now you are arguing that none of it is actually whp. It’s now hub hp. So both your reading comprehension and ability to write in English suck. Yes I know that Hammer and JMS are in different locations but your tuner knows more than the shop that just took your wheels off and on. They all already admitted your numbers aren’t real. I love you talking about the SAE correction factor now for DA like it’s something you discovered even though I posted it on page 1 for you.

Normally if someone on the forum started questioning my intelligence I would point them to my patents, undergrad and graduate degrees in aerospace engineering and my successful career full of accomplishments contributing to society. But honestly stupid people bore me and you…yawn.

Go live in whatever fairy dust land you want. You probably think women can be dudes too. If you decide to stop being a pussy then let me know when you are down for the $10k race I challenged you to last month.
👏
 
All,

I wanted to provide a comprehensive overview of my current build. I have a 2023 Lunar edition with 4k miles. I did the typical "warranty safe" mods such as FAS lower pulley, corsa exhaust, SB intake. I was happy with those mods, and my previous truck with the same mods dyno'd 627rwhp. My aux coolant pump went out on my new truck, and i attributed that to the texas summer heat. I decided to take a chance and purchase a chiller kit. I went with what i believe to be the VERY BEST kit on the market, the FI chiller stage 2 kit. My understanding with these motors is that they run hot, and the IAT sensor is in the absolute worst place possible. We lose A LOT of power to heat, especially in the warmer climates. My original intention was to leave the truck untuned, but i eventually changed my mind, ill explain why below.

After installing the chiller, i was getting cooler IC coolant, about 10-15 degrees below ambient. On the highway i was over ambient, about where the factory cooling would be. In FI's instructions they CLEARLY state to turn up the aux pump to 100% and alter the fan speeds to extract the full benefits from the chiller. I waited about a week, was generally satisfied but knew there was more on the table. I reached out to Shawn Liger with Hammer built performance and asked him to set me up with a stage 1 tune, most importantly because i needed the AUX pump turned up and the fan speeds changed to the prescribed table by FI.

After installing the tune, the chiller was working much better than no tune, which makes sense because the stock aux pump setting in auto is 36%, where after the tune its 100%. More water moving = less heat.

Fast forward to wednesday, i had the opportunity to put the truck on JMS Racing Mainline hub dyno. I was BLOWN away with the results. I had the chiller in race mode, and on a 72 degree day, my IC coolant was 26 degrees. We did a pull, and i managed 739.6rwhp in 5th gear.

I did not touch my blower, my pulley, my injectors. I didnt port anything, didnt ask for any special tunes, just something safe that anyone could obtain. To my knowledge there is 0 comparable data from anyone else. I've attached photos. I understand this isnt AWD as we dropped the front drive shaft, but the numbers are incredible regardless.

my truck stock dynod 562rwhp.
Do you still have the truck now? I’m thinking about running a FAS 850/900hp package. Seem your vehicle on JMSs instagram.
 
Do you still have the truck now? I’m thinking about running a FAS 850/900hp package. Seem your vehicle on JMSs instagram.
ScubaJoe ran outa air on this forum. He miscalculated his depth and bottom time, then missed his deco stop during ascent. Never to be seen or heard from again...
 
ScubaJoe ran outa air on this forum. He miscalculated his depth and bottom time, then missed his deco stop during ascent. Never to be seen or heard from again...
Haha he dumped a ton of $$ into his Rex (built trans/etc) and then sold it for a GT3. Last I heard he was making around 900whp on pump gas
 

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