740rwhp 93 octane TRX write up

Dino isn’t all knowing.

Sport the aux pump runs at 36%, as in auto, tow, every mode except Baja. In Baja it’s 64%.

It works without a tune, just works much better with the aux pump at 100%.

The shop I brought my truck too didn’t build my truck, didn’t tune it, nothing. I brought it there because I wanted to try a hub dyno since my friends at the shop Houston (built the winning TX2K23 gtr) use for their cars. I took my truck with 0 expectations, the tuner, hammerbuilt, no one set any expectations. This is a mild tune, it wasn’t designed to be misleading or otherwise. I expected 650-700whp. As I said, I made 627 with no tune and no chiller on a dyno jet (rwd).

Think of it whatever you want, just buy a chiller and try it out. Someone should easily be able to verify the claims with similar mods.

👍🏼💯💯
You’re absolutely right that I don’t know everything (my wife reminds me of that regularly)… just a lot more about this topic after two decades of building, tuning and racing than you. (I won’t even bring my education or career into this)

My IC pump setting in sport is 100% duty cycle. I’ll have to check the stock tune file map when I get home to see if that is a variable we changed last year…too many cars and can’t track all the tunes. Could very well be 36% duty cycle stock…would not surprise me given it is a suction pump. A higher flow rate also does not always equate to better cooling… there is a balance between rate of fluid exchange and rate of heat exchange which is why the stock system is programmed accordingly. You are also running an expansion tank which changes that calculation and usually hurts dyno performance but helps in the 1/4 mile when sized around 2-3 gallons (again it’s a flow rate and exchange calculation).

I would hope by now that you realize from every single persons comments on here (not just me in the least) that no one believes your results are real and that dynos are inevitably inaccurate. If I get time over the thanksgiving holiday I’ll throw my FI Interchiller on (if not it will have to wait until mid December) and take some actual accurate dragy data with the chiller on and off. Why don’t you do the same and then we can actually compare apples to apples? The only way comparing dyno numbers works is if we meet up at the same shop the same day and do our pulls…which if I’m doing that much effort I rather just race for some $. I’m still very open to a $10k race.

PS- your use of emojis concerns me. I expect that crap from a narcissistic Gen z brat with no life experience that thinks whatever his opinion is is valid because he can Google something online to justify himself. Hoping that description doesn’t fit you. Of course I also expect Gen z to believe in unicorns and magic which is basically your suggestion for your truck.
 
PS- your use of emojis concerns me. I expect that crap from a narcissistic Gen z brat with no life experience that thinks whatever his opinion is is valid because he can Google something online to justify himself. Hoping that description doesn’t fit you. Of course I also expect Gen z to believe in unicorns and magic which is basically your suggestion for your truck.

Agreed. He's also using the term "Mickey Mouse" wrong. 🙄
 
You’re absolutely right that I don’t know everything (my wife reminds me of that regularly)… just a lot more about this topic after two decades of building, tuning and racing than you. (I won’t even bring my education or career into this)

My IC pump setting in sport is 100% duty cycle. I’ll have to check the stock tune file map when I get home to see if that is a variable we changed last year…too many cars and can’t track all the tunes. Could very well be 36% duty cycle stock…would not surprise me given it is a suction pump. A higher flow rate also does not always equate to better cooling… there is a balance between rate of fluid exchange and rate of heat exchange which is why the stock system is programmed accordingly. You are also running an expansion tank which changes that calculation and usually hurts dyno performance but helps in the 1/4 mile when sized around 2-3 gallons (again it’s a flow rate and exchange calculation).

I would hope by now that you realize from every single persons comments on here (not just me in the least) that no one believes your results are real and that dynos are inevitably inaccurate. If I get time over the thanksgiving holiday I’ll throw my FI Interchiller on (if not it will have to wait until mid December) and take some actual accurate dragy data with the chiller on and off. Why don’t you do the same and then we can actually compare apples to apples? The only way comparing dyno numbers works is if we meet up at the same shop the same day and do our pulls…which if I’m doing that much effort I rather just race for some $. I’m still very open to a $10k race.

PS- your use of emojis concerns me. I expect that crap from a narcissistic Gen z brat with no life experience that thinks whatever his opinion is is valid because he can Google something online to justify himself. Hoping that description doesn’t fit you. Of course I also expect Gen z to believe in unicorns and magic which is basically your suggestion for your truck.
I agree with you on the high flow rate .
Moving to fast can actually cause worse heat transfer .
I see this in hvac a lot and usually have to slow the pumps down and allow for proper heat transfer .
just another nail for those dyno numbers being a scam .
 
It’s not impossible, I’ve proven it. Prove me wrong. Set up a truck same way, similar tune, and dyno it. No one has ever done it. Until someone else has done it, and doesn’t have similar results, it’s all white noise.
https://a.co/d/fE1WUnE

Prove the haters wrong and put some times up! Plus it’d be nice for you to know how quick your truck truly is.
 
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PS- your use of emojis concerns me. I expect that crap from a narcissistic Gen z brat with no life experience that thinks whatever his opinion is is valid because he can Google something online to justify himself. Hoping that description doesn’t fit you. Of course I also expect Gen z to believe in unicorns and magic which is basically your suggestion for your truck.
🍿🤏😯
 
Damn, someone is hurt. I just posted my numbers and the dudes on cialis started crying. I am not saying my numbers are 100%, im asking someone else with a similar build to verify. Maybe one day someone will, or ill just take it to a different dyno. ;)
 
You’re absolutely right that I don’t know everything (my wife reminds me of that regularly)… just a lot more about this topic after two decades of building, tuning and racing than you. (I won’t even bring my education or career into this)

My IC pump setting in sport is 100% duty cycle. I’ll have to check the stock tune file map when I get home to see if that is a variable we changed last year…too many cars and can’t track all the tunes. Could very well be 36% duty cycle stock…would not surprise me given it is a suction pump. A higher flow rate also does not always equate to better cooling… there is a balance between rate of fluid exchange and rate of heat exchange which is why the stock system is programmed accordingly. You are also running an expansion tank which changes that calculation and usually hurts dyno performance but helps in the 1/4 mile when sized around 2-3 gallons (again it’s a flow rate and exchange calculation).

I would hope by now that you realize from every single persons comments on here (not just me in the least) that no one believes your results are real and that dynos are inevitably inaccurate. If I get time over the thanksgiving holiday I’ll throw my FI Interchiller on (if not it will have to wait until mid December) and take some actual accurate dragy data with the chiller on and off. Why don’t you do the same and then we can actually compare apples to apples? The only way comparing dyno numbers works is if we meet up at the same shop the same day and do our pulls…which if I’m doing that much effort I rather just race for some $. I’m still very open to a $10k race.

PS- your use of emojis concerns me. I expect that crap from a narcissistic Gen z brat with no life experience that thinks whatever his opinion is is valid because he can Google something online to justify himself. Hoping that description doesn’t fit you. Of course I also expect Gen z to believe in unicorns and magic which is basically your suggestion for your truck.
DON'T ever challenge AZDinoPwr's knowledge when it comes to this kind of stuff! I'm totally impressed and thank you so much for sharing that knowledge on this Forum! I for one, and I know there are many others here, do appreciate your help with all of our questions!
 
DON'T ever challenge AZDinoPwr's knowledge when it comes to this kind of stuff! I'm totally impressed and thank you so much for sharing that knowledge on this Forum! I for one, and I know there are many others here, do appreciate your help with all of our questions!
he doesnt even know the flow rate of the factory IC pump with no tune. Lol.
 
he doesnt even know the flow rate of the factory IC pump with no tune. Lol.
You’re missing the point. No one cares, except you, what your dyno numbers are. On the flip side, everyone, except you, is highly interested in how much performance it added. By going to the track or even easier, getting a dragy and finding a flat space to run it out will answer everyone’s questions.

Putting it on another dyno or finding someone somewhere else with the exact same mods does nothing for anyone. You’re bench racing and everyone else wants to know what it truly runs. Hope that makes sense and I would sincerely like to see the numbers if you get a few minutes to do some pulls.
 
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he doesnt even know the flow rate of the factory IC pump with no tune. Lol.
Daniel,

Calm down sir. No one is hurt and the “dudes on cialis” comment is really off target (for the guys that know… shit you at least 40 lol) but good try.

My stock IC pump setting is 36% duty cycle in auto and 63% in sport (changed to 100% in tune). So either you don’t know the numbers because I’m betting you didn’t actually tune your truck (or probably turn a wrench on it) or it’s a change in model year settings. If you have a 2023 there were quite a few tune changes.

Your post #12 stating your numbers are “proven” sounds a lot like you think they are 100%. Plus all the additional posts arguing with everyone asking for timeslip or accel data and arguing with me and others about the actual fuel consumption math that indicates your truck defies conservation of energy calculations (the first ever perpetual motion vehicle). Plus messaging Kirk to let him know you have the “highest hp stage 1 truck” ever. Now you say your numbers aren’t 100%? Hm, someone is backpedaling.

Between your basic lack of understanding of how fuel relates to hp limits, using phrases like “stage 1 truck” (someone thinks Fast and the Furious is a documentary) and that it sounds like all the work done to your truck was by someone else it is clear that you are not a real or educated automotive enthusiast.

For about the 10th time, I’m happy to detune my truck before I put the chiller on to 720awhp and then run them for $10k.

Just as an FYI, I’m not a bs-er. As soon as I get my ported parts back everything new will go on and I’ll grab dragy data for everyone to see reality. You could post dragy data now that would actually benefit the forum community but apparently your ego is too worried about being proven wrong on your dyno numbers.

IMG_6764.jpeg
 
DON'T ever challenge AZDinoPwr's knowledge when it comes to this kind of stuff! I'm totally impressed and thank you so much for sharing that knowledge on this Forum! I for one, and I know there are many others here, do appreciate your help with all of our questions!
I appreciate your vote of confidence. I am far from infallible and as my career continues to stretch my mental capacity I do find it is harder to rely upon just memory so I absolutely get some specifics wrong at times. But the overarching principles are consistent and I stand behind those discussion points that have been engrained in me from years of education and hands on work (including a lot of lessons learned from failures). I’m happy to answer questions and I enjoy fielding the stream of PMs from folks with questions for their builds and tuning.
 
Daniel,

Calm down sir. No one is hurt and the “dudes on cialis” comment is really off target (for the guys that know… shit you at least 40 lol) but good try.

My stock IC pump setting is 36% duty cycle in auto and 63% in sport (changed to 100% in tune). So either you don’t know the numbers because I’m betting you didn’t actually tune your truck (or probably turn a wrench on it) or it’s a change in model year settings. If you have a 2023 there were quite a few tune changes.

Your post #12 stating your numbers are “proven” sounds a lot like you think they are 100%. Plus all the additional posts arguing with everyone asking for timeslip or accel data and arguing with me and others about the actual fuel consumption math that indicates your truck defies conservation of energy calculations (the first ever perpetual motion vehicle). Plus messaging Kirk to let him know you have the “highest hp stage 1 truck” ever. Now you say your numbers aren’t 100%? Hm, someone is backpedaling.

Between your basic lack of understanding of how fuel relates to hp limits, using phrases like “stage 1 truck” (someone thinks Fast and the Furious is a documentary) and that it sounds like all the work done to your truck was by someone else it is clear that you are not a real or educated automotive enthusiast.

For about the 10th time, I’m happy to detune my truck before I put the chiller on to 720awhp and then run them for $10k.

Just as an FYI, I’m not a bs-er. As soon as I get my ported parts back everything new will go on and I’ll grab dragy data for everyone to see reality. You could post dragy data now that would actually benefit the forum community but apparently your ego is too worried about being proven wrong on your dyno numbers.

View attachment 116301
Well, Kirk seems to agree with me. I have no reason to believe that the dyno was manipulated for any reason, and the only people claiming such are people who havent tested the product in the same capacity as i have. If my numbers are manipulated, prove it. A truck with similar mods would make less power yes? Draggy etc, all irrelevant. this is a post about what the Mainline Dyno at JMS racing read the day i brought it in. I have a 23' lunar and went off what Kirk told me about the stock IC numbers are. Stage 1 truck references the tune, its a stage 1 tune. I dont have to be an automotive enthusiast to generate interest in my results. I documented what was done, how it was done, and was told its impossible. My follow up to that was: Do it yourself and let me know. We can go from there, ill let the real auto enthusiasts drive this train. :cool:
 
Well, Kirk seems to agree with me. I have no reason to believe that the dyno was manipulated for any reason, and the only people claiming such are people who havent tested the product in the same capacity as i have. If my numbers are manipulated, prove it. A truck with similar mods would make less power yes? Draggy etc, all irrelevant. this is a post about what the Mainline Dyno at JMS racing read the day i brought it in. I have a 23' lunar and went off what Kirk told me about the stock IC numbers are. Stage 1 truck references the tune, its a stage 1 tune. I dont have to be an automotive enthusiast to generate interest in my results. I documented what was done, how it was done, and was told its impossible. My follow up to that was: Do it yourself and let me know. We can go from there, ill let the real auto enthusiasts drive this train. :cool:
Define a “stage 1 tune” for all of us along with what makes a “stage 2 tune” then?

So if someone does the same hardware mods as you, but doesn’t have the same tune unless they literally copy your tune file, are you going to admit that their numbers are just as valid as yours? Or are you going to claim then that the magic must be in the tune?

(Again your use of emojis is creepy… you’re making Texans look bad)
 
Define a “stage 1 tune” for all of us along with what makes a “stage 2 tune” then?

So if someone does the same hardware mods as you, but doesn’t have the same tune unless they literally copy your tune file, are you going to admit that their numbers are just as valid as yours? Or are you going to claim then that the magic must be in the tune?

(Again your use of emojis is creepy… you’re making Texans look bad)
Stage 1 tune:

No injectors no upper

Stage 2 tune:

Upper and injectors

Brother, if my results are impossible, try it and share so I can call out the shop that I dynod the truck at. My tune is Mickey Mouse, not aggressive per hammerbuilt.

Sorry my use of emojis offends you so much,
1701284064400.png
 
Daniel,

Calm down sir. No one is hurt and the “dudes on cialis” comment is really off target (for the guys that know… shit you at least 40 lol) but good try.

My stock IC pump setting is 36% duty cycle in auto and 63% in sport (changed to 100% in tune). So either you don’t know the numbers because I’m betting you didn’t actually tune your truck (or probably turn a wrench on it) or it’s a change in model year settings. If you have a 2023 there were quite a few tune changes.

Your post #12 stating your numbers are “proven” sounds a lot like you think they are 100%. Plus all the additional posts arguing with everyone asking for timeslip or accel data and arguing with me and others about the actual fuel consumption math that indicates your truck defies conservation of energy calculations (the first ever perpetual motion vehicle). Plus messaging Kirk to let him know you have the “highest hp stage 1 truck” ever. Now you say your numbers aren’t 100%? Hm, someone is backpedaling.

Between your basic lack of understanding of how fuel relates to hp limits, using phrases like “stage 1 truck” (someone thinks Fast and the Furious is a documentary) and that it sounds like all the work done to your truck was by someone else it is clear that you are not a real or educated automotive enthusiast.

For about the 10th time, I’m happy to detune my truck before I put the chiller on to 720awhp and then run them for $10k.

Just as an FYI, I’m not a bs-er. As soon as I get my ported parts back everything new will go on and I’ll grab dragy data for everyone to see reality. You could post dragy data now that would actually benefit the forum community but apparently your ego is too worried about being proven wrong on your dyno numbers.

View attachment 116301
Sorry to get a bit off topic, but what are the differences on the 23?
 
I appreciate your vote of confidence. I am far from infallible and as my career continues to stretch my mental capacity I do find it is harder to rely upon just memory so I absolutely get some specifics wrong at times. But the overarching principles are consistent and I stand behind those discussion points that have been engrained in me from years of education and hands on work (including a lot of lessons learned from failures). I’m happy to answer questions and I enjoy fielding the stream of PMs from folks with questions for their builds and tuning.
You deserve the vote of confidence and your advice is appreciated by most on here. We are all there at some point regarding stretching our memories, but you always seem to go above and beyond to help and its truly great to see!
 
Stage 1 tune:

No injectors no upper

Stage 2 tune:

Upper and injectors

Brother, if my results are impossible, try it and share so I can call out the shop that I dynod the truck at. My tune is Mickey Mouse, not aggressive per hammerbuilt.

Sorry my use of emojis offends you so much, View attachment 116322
I laughed really hard when I read this post. Thank you, in all honesty, laughter is one of the best parts of life. Then I read the content after the definitions of “stage” tunes and I laughed some more.

There are no “stages” with tuning…. Or even stages for anything. It’s a made up term by parts companies to make money off idiots like you that don’t know a damn thing about cars/tuning (want me to link to a page showing stage 1-5 brake packages for the TRX that don’t even upgrade the calipers?). When you setup a tune for max effort or for dd reliability then you are talking about how conservative or aggressive the timing and fuel map is…there are no stages. It really comes down to how much timing you pull off the peak allowed with KR.

If you’re cracking open the PCM then you’re going to look at and adjust fuel, airflow, spark (all versus throttle or load), coolant temps, fan settings, etc…regardless of whether you have an “upper pulley or injectors.” Hellcat motors run rich and any tuner is going to lean out the fuel even on stock injectors. What about the guy running a 10% lower but no upper? Is that a stage 1 or stage 2? 🤦‍♂️ if you crack open the TCM map then you’re looking at a minimum at line pressures, shift time and torque management tables. What about FSO (on or off)? Let’s not forget the random stuff like emissions and cat overtemp protection.

You are the definition of car illiterate and every time you post you bring down the IQ of this forum.

Grab a time slip or STFU. I’ll grab the dragy data on the chiller for everyone since you’re too scared.
 
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