740rwhp 93 octane TRX write up

[AZDinoPwr]

You seem pretty certain. I recommend meeting up with AZDinopwr, lining them up and setting him straight.

I’m in

 

[MPM IV]

I’m in

I was sure you would be.
I was also pretty sure that the op wouldn’t be, but I’ve seen stranger things, and it would thoroughly amuse me.
I agree with Crunch though, it’s a great looking truck.

 

[DanZman]

I would be happy to detune my truck to 720 awhp, prove with a dyno sheet that that is where it is at, and then run them side to side with $10k on the line just to make it worth the time.

I’ll add another $100 to this pot.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I was sure you would be.
I was also pretty sure that the op wouldn’t be, but I’ve seen stranger things, and it would thoroughly amuse me.
I agree with Crunch though, it’s a great looking truck.

As long as it’s not Havoc yellow or on 24s then it’s a good looking truck. I’ll also have the FI interchiller on the truck in about a month and can do some draggy runs with it on and off to calculate actual whp gains.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

As long as it’s not Havoc yellow or on 24s then it’s a good looking truck. I’ll also have the FI interchiller on the truck in about a month and can do some draggy runs with it on and off to calculate actual whp gains.

Get ready for another 100+ whp man!!

 

[GP4L]

Hold on a minute, isnt 6th gear the true 1:1 on these rigs? A lower gear pull would skew #s quite a bit I would think.

Someone fact-check me, but I believe (while 1:1 would be ideal) they use 5th in these things to keep the wheels/rollers at a safer speed

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Someone fact-check me, but I believe (while 1:1 would be ideal) they use 5th in these things to keep the wheels/rollers at a safer speed

You have to use 5th or lower to stay within the speed rating of the tires… lots of shops even do 4th. But one of the benefits of a hub dyno is no tires so you can do it at any gear.

Shops usually use hub dynos because they lack the space / $ for a full roller or because they are looking at very high hp cars that have lots of wheelspin issues. The absolute value of the numbers coming from the hub dyno are the usually the most inconsistent with real world whp but they capture the deltas between tune changes within a single setting the best thanks to no loss in traction.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Get ready for another 100+ whp man!!

I’ll be the first 1000chp stock blower, stock heads, stock cam, stock exhaust hellcat in the world!

 

[PhoenixTRX]

I haven't been this excited since....

 

[GP4L]

Shops usually use hub dynos because they lack the space / $ for a full roller or because they are looking at very high hp cars that have lots of wheelspin issues. The absolute value of the numbers coming from the hub dyno are the usually the most inconsistent with real world whp but they capture the deltas between tune changes within a single setting the best thanks to no loss in traction.

Yeah I never jockey'd a car on a hub-dyno back in the day. Only awd Dynojets. Always heard the hub dyno's read obnoxiously high - but the chassis dyno's can be manipulated to spit out whatever you want to see too. That's what everyone did back in the early-mid 00's when youtube came around. Anyways, like you said, the before/after delta is what matters, and then 1/4 mile numbers. I had no trouble running 11.90's @113ish with an incog + intake on a cold night. I'm gonna have a lol if the OP isn't significantly faster than that.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

All,

I wanted to provide a comprehensive overview of my current build. I have a 2023 Lunar edition with 4k miles. I did the typical "warranty safe" mods such as FAS lower pulley, corsa exhaust, SB intake. I was happy with those mods, and my previous truck with the same mods dyno'd 627rwhp. My aux coolant pump went out on my new truck, and i attributed that to the texas summer heat. I decided to take a chance and purchase a chiller kit. I went with what i believe to be the VERY BEST kit on the market, the FI chiller stage 2 kit. My understanding with these motors is that they run hot, and the IAT sensor is in the absolute worst place possible. We lose A LOT of power to heat, especially in the warmer climates. My original intention was to leave the truck untuned, but i eventually changed my mind, ill explain why below.

After installing the chiller, i was getting cooler IC coolant, about 10-15 degrees below ambient. On the highway i was over ambient, about where the factory cooling would be. In FI's instructions they CLEARLY state to turn up the aux pump to 100% and alter the fan speeds to extract the full benefits from the chiller. I waited about a week, was generally satisfied but knew there was more on the table. I reached out to Shawn Liger with Hammer built performance and asked him to set me up with a stage 1 tune, most importantly because i needed the AUX pump turned up and the fan speeds changed to the prescribed table by FI.

After installing the tune, the chiller was working much better than no tune, which makes sense because the stock aux pump setting in auto is 36%, where after the tune its 100%. More water moving = less heat.

Fast forward to wednesday, i had the opportunity to put the truck on JMS Racing Mainline hub dyno. I was BLOWN away with the results. I had the chiller in race mode, and on a 72 degree day, my IC coolant was 26 degrees. We did a pull, and i managed 739.6rwhp in 5th gear.

I did not touch my blower, my pulley, my injectors. I didnt port anything, didnt ask for any special tunes, just something safe that anyone could obtain. To my knowledge there is 0 comparable data from anyone else. I've attached photos. I understand this isnt AWD as we dropped the front drive shaft, but the numbers are incredible regardless.

my truck stock dynod 562rwhp.

I have a different question. What was the deal with the FI chiller not working all that well without a tune? I'm in the market for a chiller sometime before it warms up again but definitely dont want to have to get a tune just to get my chiller to work properly!

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I have a different question. What was the deal with the FI chiller not working all that well without a tune? I'm in the market for a chiller sometime before it warms up again but definitely dont want to have to get a tune just to get my chiller to work properly!

I haven’t seen anyone have that much of a delta in IC temps because of adjusting the IC pump before. In auto drive mode the pump is not at 100% but I believe in sport the factory setting is 100%. Seen plenty of hellcats without tunes and sub freezing IC temps with the chiller… do have to remember to put the AC compressor to “on” instead of “auto” though.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Yeah I never jockey'd a car on a hub-dyno back in the day. Only awd Dynojets. Always heard the hub dyno's read obnoxiously high - but the chassis dyno's can be manipulated to spit out whatever you want to see too. That's what everyone did back in the early-mid 00's when youtube came around. Anyways, like you said, the before/after delta is what matters, and then 1/4 mile numbers. I had no trouble running 11.90's @113ish with an incog + intake on a cold night. I'm gonna have a lol if the OP isn't significantly faster than that.

I wish the OP would post the log files from that dyno pull and we could all see IAT2 and injector duty cycle. Even with the chiller at freezing temps, I would still expect IAT2 on a mid 70 degree day around 80-90 degrees. The charge doesn’t spend long enough in the bricks to get down anywhere close to the IC temp but can get you back close to ambient. So if you were out on a 50ish deg day then I would expect you to have similar performance to him.

 

[Jiujitsu11]

I guess let him live in his fantasy land where his engine makes more power than fuel available. He can go tell his buddies that his TRX has that much power and how he is so smart and never have to verify it with a drag run.

To this day it still surprises me how little people know about how dynamometers work. When I did calibration development for an OEM even an engine dyno could vary a few percentage points and up to 5% between engines. Dyno shops always have an incentive in showing you the highest numbers and like many people said its real easy to tweak a few knobs and get ridiculous numbers to show up. He is comparing two different dyno runs in two different dynos as evidence for his magical tune.

Thats how a lot of people get conned

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I guess let him live in his fantasy land where his engine makes more power than fuel available. He can go tell his buddies that his TRX has that much power and how he is so smart and never have to verify it with a drag run.

To this day it still surprises me how little people know about how dynamometers work. When I did calibration development for an OEM even an engine dyno could vary a few percentage points and up to 5% between engines. Dyno shops always have an incentive in showing you the highest numbers and like many people said its real easy to tweak a few knobs and get ridiculous numbers to show up. He is comparing two different dyno runs in two different dynos as evidence for his magical tune.

Thats how a lot of people get conned

You’re absolutely right. And I have seen plenty of shops start with a hot dyno pull for the stock number, then ice the vehicle down for a “hero run” while the dyno sensors are all registering the same temps. Easy to fake numbers to make customers feel like they got their moneys worth and like their shop has the secret sauce.

Seems like he ghosted us all as soon as I was willing to line up our trucks with some cash on the line.

I’ll finally get some time to install the chiller over the holiday break and post a write up on performance and have some draggy data for folks who want to realistically know what to expect.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

You’re absolutely right. And I have seen plenty of shops start with a hot dyno pull for the stock number, then ice the vehicle down for a “hero run” while the dyno sensors are all registering the same temps. Easy to fake numbers to make customers feel like they got their moneys worth and like their shop has the secret sauce.

Seems like he ghosted us all as soon as I was willing to line up our trucks with some cash on the line.

I’ll finally get some time to install the chiller over the holiday break and post a write up on performance and have some draggy data for folks who want to realistically know what to expect.

Will that be a straight chiller install or tune tweaks as well? Id like to hear no-tune/before-tune results if possible

 

[slivoman]

So the OP can spend thousands of dollars twice but can't buy a $160 Draggy unit and prove everyone wrong?? Obvious TROLL

 

[CUOFFRD]

I’d be happy with even the built in 1/4 mile timer/mph at this point.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Will that be a straight chiller install or tune tweaks as well? Id like to hear no-tune/before-tune results if possible

Talking to Curt but I think straight chiller first. Then toss on the other few new mods and update the tune for those. I’ll let you guys know just how plug and play the new TRX FI kit is.

 

[Scubajoe]

Dino isn’t all knowing.

Sport the aux pump runs at 36%, as in auto, tow, every mode except Baja. In Baja it’s 64%.

It works without a tune, just works much better with the aux pump at 100%.

The shop I brought my truck too didn’t build my truck, didn’t tune it, nothing. I brought it there because I wanted to try a hub dyno since my friends at the shop Houston (built the winning TX2K23 gtr) use for their cars. I took my truck with 0 expectations, the tuner, hammerbuilt, no one set any expectations. This is a mild tune, it wasn’t designed to be misleading or otherwise. I expected 650-700whp. As I said, I made 627 with no tune and no chiller on a dyno jet (rwd).

Think of it whatever you want, just buy a chiller and try it out. Someone should easily be able to verify the claims with similar mods.