RAVELCO THREAD

[Eighty]

Apparently hasn't been done in 40 years. The back is secured in a metal braid or box of some sort. Also, all wires are the same color. So, they'd need to spend quite awhile figuring it out. Hours.

I didn't ask how many wires come out of the back (I assume it's 5, same as the wires going all the way into the engine bay). But if someone just took a bolt cutter and cut the entire sheath/bundle, they could get to the actual wires. If it's just 5 wires, then it's a very small set of possibilities for making connections to the starter and fuel pump.

 

[Eighty]

First wrong attempt at the combination of wires that need to be joined and/or grounded blows fuses


.

Agreed. But if we're only talking about a dozen or so combinations, someone could show up with a pocketful of fuses and get it done.

 

[CUOFFRD]

I assume this works by two of the possible pins joining and completing the circuit. One of the two supplying the 12v and the other receiving. What if you just took a hand full of wires and supplied 12 volts to all the pins at the same time from another battery? You’d get the circuit you want plus some.

 

[ChemLab]

I'm sure it can be done. I would like a video showing it. You'd think in 40 years someone would have a documented video showing how this is easily done.

 

[dswalterwi]

Just saw this thread about the more technical aspects of the ravelco. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ravelco-anti-theft-device-plug-getting-warm.1200563/

After reading that I’m not likely to have my wiring harness jacked up just to interrupt two wires. If for some reason you got someone that didn’t do a good job your left with an F’d up mess

 

[ChemLab]

After reading that I’m not likely to have my wiring harness jacked up just to interrupt two wires. If for some reason you got someone that didn’t do a good job your left with an F’d up mess

Find an example of a bad install. I cannot. I'm not an installer or friend of the owner, but their track record is pretty damn spotless.

 

[Claasicdrive]

Find an example of a bad install. I cannot. I'm not an installer or friend of the owner, but their track record is pretty damn spotless.

That thread is an example of a bad install. It could be the exception, it looks like it's the exception , but how many are going to trace the wires to check how well the install was done. It lasted 10 years and the issue could've been corrosion and the guy being electrical inclined and being able to do a better job. Every single person that had it installed in their TRX and posted here is happy with the work done tho

 

[Eighty]

That thread is an example of a bad install. It could be the exception, it looks like it's the exception , but how many are going to trace the wires to check how well the install was done. It lasted 10 years and the issue could've been corrosion and the guy being electrical inclined and being able to do a better job. Every single person that had it installed in their TRX and posted here is happy with the work done tho

And Bret (the guy who did my install) said that he soldered and protected every new connection - so that there's no worry about corrosion or water causing a bad connection.

 

[Claasicdrive]

And Bret (the guy who did my install) said that he soldered and protected every new connection - so that there's no worry about corrosion or water causing a bad connection.

If I ever have Ravelco, if ever , I'll use your install pics for location. It's not drilling into dash , can be easily unbolted , put the cap on and tuck it behind the dash plastics if I decide to sell the truck. Lots of buyers dont like aftermarket addons, safety features or not.

 

[dswalterwi]

I’d rather invest in a security dash cam

Owlcam | Americas Smartest Dashcam

Owlcam is americas smartest AI Dashcam made for every driver. The more you see, the more you know. Owlcam life is always on, see it all.

owlcam.com

 

[Tom488]

Apparently hasn't been done in 40 years. The back is secured in a metal braid or box of some sort. Also, all wires are the same color. So, they'd need to spend quite awhile figuring it out. Hours.

Yep - and no one has ever died in certain theme parks, either... because they drag the corpses off the property, then call the coroner, and have them pronounced on city property

But the original point is valid... it suddenly becomes a lot less complicated if you go after the wires directly. A few minutes cutting through the braid, a few minutes stripping back the wires... some judicious time spent with a DVM to figure out which wire goes to what (requires prior knowledge of exactly which circuits were tapped, and how) and labeling them... I figure it would take a competent electrician 30-45 minutes of jerking around - exactly what a car thief DOESN'T want to do.

 

[Johnkn]

I assume this works by two of the possible pins joining and completing the circuit. One of the two supplying the 12v and the other receiving. What if you just took a hand full of wires and supplied 12 volts to all the pins at the same time from another battery? You’d get the circuit you want plus some.

. I don’t know why people continue to pursue this here. So you are suggesting supplying +12vdc to grounds, momentary circuits, etc.?

The actual wiring is proprietary and the only thing accomplished by supplying +12vdc would be a smoking, melted mess....


.

 

[Johnkn]

I’d rather invest in a security dash cam

Owlcam | Americas Smartest Dashcam

Owlcam is americas smartest AI Dashcam made for every driver. The more you see, the more you know. Owlcam life is always on, see it all.

owlcam.com

Please do that, that way you’ll have a nice video to remember your truck by......

All that’s being accomplished here is producing a google-able database for thieves for years to come giving them potential ideas and ways to defeat this anti-theft device. .

I would suggest that if someone doesn’t like it or doesn’t want it, don’t buy it. I bet the 3 guys who had 2 TRXs and a Trackhawk stolen at DFW airport this week wish they had some security system installed, Ravelco or not...

.

 

[BowesEsq]

Seems interesting

Jesus Christ, no. I don’t know why people continue to pursue this here. So you are suggesting supplying +12vdc to grounds, momentary circuits, etc.?

The actual wiring is proprietary and the only thing accomplished by supplying +12vdc would be a smoking, melted mess....


.

I’d rather invest in a security dash cam

Owlcam | Americas Smartest Dashcam

Owlcam is americas smartest AI Dashcam made for every driver. The more you see, the more you know. Owlcam life is always on, see it all.

owlcam.com

Seems like an interesting additional security measure. I like the livestreaming/alerts. But, after 2 years (product cost + annual subscription) you'll be paying more. Additionally, it's only forward-facing and won't stop the vehicle from being jacked.

 

[CUOFFRD]

. I don’t know why people continue to pursue this here. So you are suggesting supplying +12vdc to grounds, momentary circuits, etc.?

The actual wiring is proprietary and the only thing accomplished by supplying +12vdc would be a smoking, melted mess....


.

All you need to do it get power to start the vehicle and drive it off. Do you think the thief
is concerned with anything but that? Sounds to me the only thing that would happen would be a fuse or two that blow but you’d be providing power to complete the starter relay allowing it to start.

Maybe I just don’t understand how it works but this is how I understand it. You’re just adding a removable connection between the fuse and the starter relay. Then you have a bunch of dummy wires that are grounded. If you plug in two grounded wires, nothing happens. If you plug in a grounded wire and the starter relay wire nothing happens. If you plug in the fused wire and starter wire it would start. Lastly if you plugged in the fused wire and a grounded wire, it would pop the fuse.

Why would it matter if the dummy ground wires melt?

 

[Joemac]

I have the Revelco installed under the dash. You cannot see it, and it works. I cannot start the truck without putting the plug in. It has an armored cable connected that runs up into the dash. There was no cutting into the dash.

I also have UCONNECT for tracking, and a separate Optimus GPS. I have front/rear Blackvue dash cams with parking detection. I replaced all of my wheel lugs with Gorilla locking lugs. I am sure there is more I can do, but this should slow/deter thieves.

For everything but the Revelco, I don’t need to do anything. I can check the location anytime, but I don’t need to. The dash cam uploads to the cloud, so I would have some video. I have Ring cams at my house also, so it might help if someone tries to steal it there.

I don’t think any one solution will protect your vehicle. You probably paid over $85k for your truck, I have additionally added about $7k-$8k in mods (tonneau, power steps, light bars, bed lining, bed racks, etc….) and more to go. I have good insurance too, but I just don’t want to go through the hassle of having my truck stolen, and starting over again (including waiting for it to be delivered).

I don’t know of a better system to keep you vehicle from being stolen than Revelco. Please, if someone does, list it here. I, like many here researched what I could on available systems and came to the conclusion, the Revelco was best. I rarely use remote start, but you are not totally giving it up. You can leave the plug in. They can still steal out of your truck. They can still take the wheels and tires, but it is harder with locks. I use the dash cams because if there is an accident with another vehicle it is likely with a big truck and fast engine I would get blamed easier. It has the added benefit of parking sensors (movement and motion detection) and recording to their cloud.

I am not telling anyone what to do with their truck. I am just giving my logic for my security mods…track record, multiple systems, ease of use, out of sight, relative expense. The best solution is parking in safe areas whenever possible, short of that, a few systems will help.

 

[Claasicdrive]

found a forum where users DIY Ravelco LIKE DEVICE with this where you can add more circuits not only 4 like Ravelco..

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Connector-Supply-Aviation-Bulkhead/dp/B07BLT68PB?tag=ramtrx05-20

Also here are instruction from a CERTIFIED installer in case you find a Ravelco for sale and want to install it yourself LOT'S TO READ

you can adapt the guide to DIY device I linked at the top
"
Installation Instructions, Ravelco Anti-Theft Device
Installation of the Ravelco Anti-theft device is fairly simple, and can be completed in less than one hour for most applications.
Equipment Needed for Installation:
1- Electric Drill
2- Drill Bit, 1/2" (13mm)
3- 1-1/8" (29mm) hole saw (optional for in-dash mount)
4- Wire crimping tool and electrical connectors for wire splices, ground eyelet
5- Electrical tape, wire (zip) ties
6- Black RTV or Petroleum based Body Tar sealant
7- Automotive Wire Loom / Flex Tubing (optional)
8- Sheet metal screws
9- Wiring diagram for installation vehicle
10- Screw driver
11- Channel locks or large pliers
Installation:
Before you start your installation, there are some important things to observe. All of the wires that come out of the rear of the Ravelco are black. This is so that a thief cannot match color-coding to bypass the unit. There are a total of five wires. The shortest wire is a ground wire. It is critical that this wire is attached to the body of the vehicle for the Ravelco to work properly. You will observe two longer wires with white tabs on the end, and two wires without these tabs. DO NOT remove the tabs from the wires until the installation is complete, those two wires are a matched set.
1- Determine if you want to mount your Ravelco under the automobile dash or in the automobile dash. Under dash is easier, but in dash is less obvious and slightly more secure. With either installation, the armored cable will prevent any thief from getting to the critical wiring.
2- In Dash: Determine the location of the installation, paying special attention to the wiring and supports behind the proposed location. You will be using the Hole Saw to cut a hole in your dash, so make sure that you have the correct location. Before installing through dash, remove rear mounting nut and then remove the "L" bracket used for under dash mounting. Thread wires and armored cable through the hole previously cut in the dash, and then reinstall rear mounting nut over wires and armored cable from under the dash. Tighten the rear mounting nut with a pair of channel locks or a large pair of pliers.
3- Under Dash: Pick a location that will not interfere with your entering or exiting the vehicle, or will not interfere with normal operation of the vehicle. Some installations are done in the glove box to hide the Ravelco from casual view. To hang the Ravelco, remove the "L" bracket (step 2) and use the holes in the attached bracket as a template for drilling two small holes to attach with sheet metal screws. Reinstall the Ravelco in the mounting bracket.
4- From your installation location in the vehicle, visualize a straight line back to the firewall. This is the path that your armored cable will travel. You will need to drill a hole in the firewall with the 1/2" (13mm) drill bit to feed the armored cable through. Make sure to pick a location that you can reach with the drill while the bit is attached. Also be aware of anything that might be on the outside of the firewall, in the engine compartment.
5- After mounting your Ravelco, and drilling your hole in the firewall, carefully run the wires and armored cable through the hole. The easiest way to secure the cable is to use a wire tie on the outside of the firewall, installing it after you pull the cable snug. Wrapping the cable in electrical tape, or using a hose clamp can also accomplish this. My personal preference is the wire tie, as it is easier to remove if necessary. After securing the cable, use Black RTV or body tar to seal around the cable to stop any moisture from getting inside the vehicle.
The Ravelco is a system interrupt device, which means that it will cut two critical circuits needed for vehicle operation. The identification of the correct wires to interrupt is critical. These circuits can be anything that is low current, preferably something that is disabling. Suggestions are: Fuel injection control (as long as it is not the CPU power), fuel control from the fuel pump, ignition control (hot lead to distributor), and starter.
You must identify the wires to two of these circuits, and then follow the wires back into the wiring harness after splitting the harness. The reason for tracing the wire back into the harness is so that the splice connections that you make can be easily hidden from casual observation.
From experience, the two easiest to find are usually the fuel injection power, and the ignition power lines. It's important to trace and splice into the hot wires, and not the ground wires. Some circuits will ground from the connection as well as a wire, so splicing into the ground wire is not as secure.
Once you have identified the correct wire, you will need to cut it, and splice the long black wires into the circuit. Use either the wires with or without the white tabs, but don't mix them. Then identify the second wire to be cut and repeat the process with the other long black wire pair.
That's all there is to it, the Ravelco is active, and the vehicle should not start without the plug installed in the socket.
The last step is to hide your work. Do this by hiding the spliced wires back in the original wire loom. Wrap any exposed wire and the reinforced cable in electrical tape so that it looks like any other wiring circuit under the hood. If you want to, purchase a length of wire loom from the auto parts store, and hide the reinforced cable and wires coming from the firewall with this to make it look like the rest of the wiring in the car."

 

[jonny_pockets]

found a forum where users DIY Ravelco LIKE DEVICE with this where you can add more circuits not only 4 like Ravelco..

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Connector-Supply-Aviation-Bulkhead/dp/B07BLT68PB?tag=ramtrx05-20

All those directions are well worth spending $650 and not worrying about anything else.






Also here are instruction from a CERTIFIED installer in case you find a Ravelco for sale and want to install it yourself LOT'S TO READ

you can adapt the guide to DIY device I linked at the top
"
Installation Instructions, Ravelco Anti-Theft Device

Installation of the Ravelco Anti-theft device is fairly simple, and can be completed in less than one hour for most applications.

Equipment Needed for Installation:
1- Electric Drill
2- Drill Bit, 1/2" (13mm)
3- 1-1/8" (29mm) hole saw (optional for in-dash mount)
4- Wire crimping tool and electrical connectors for wire splices, ground eyelet
5- Electrical tape, wire (zip) ties
6- Black RTV or Petroleum based Body Tar sealant
7- Automotive Wire Loom / Flex Tubing (optional)
8- Sheet metal screws
9- Wiring diagram for installation vehicle
10- Screw driver
11- Channel locks or large pliers

Installation:

Before you start your installation, there are some important things to observe. All of the wires that come out of the rear of the Ravelco are black. This is so that a thief cannot match color-coding to bypass the unit. There are a total of five wires. The shortest wire is a ground wire. It is critical that this wire is attached to the body of the vehicle for the Ravelco to work properly. You will observe two longer wires with white tabs on the end, and two wires without these tabs. DO NOT remove the tabs from the wires until the installation is complete, those two wires are a matched set.

1- Determine if you want to mount your Ravelco under the automobile dash or in the automobile dash. Under dash is easier, but in dash is less obvious and slightly more secure. With either installation, the armored cable will prevent any thief from getting to the critical wiring.
2- In Dash: Determine the location of the installation, paying special attention to the wiring and supports behind the proposed location. You will be using the Hole Saw to cut a hole in your dash, so make sure that you have the correct location. Before installing through dash, remove rear mounting nut and then remove the "L" bracket used for under dash mounting. Thread wires and armored cable through the hole previously cut in the dash, and then reinstall rear mounting nut over wires and armored cable from under the dash. Tighten the rear mounting nut with a pair of channel locks or a large pair of pliers.
3- Under Dash: Pick a location that will not interfere with your entering or exiting the vehicle, or will not interfere with normal operation of the vehicle. Some installations are done in the glove box to hide the Ravelco from casual view. To hang the Ravelco, remove the "L" bracket (step 2) and use the holes in the attached bracket as a template for drilling two small holes to attach with sheet metal screws. Reinstall the Ravelco in the mounting bracket.
4- From your installation location in the vehicle, visualize a straight line back to the firewall. This is the path that your armored cable will travel. You will need to drill a hole in the firewall with the 1/2" (13mm) drill bit to feed the armored cable through. Make sure to pick a location that you can reach with the drill while the bit is attached. Also be aware of anything that might be on the outside of the firewall, in the engine compartment.
5- After mounting your Ravelco, and drilling your hole in the firewall, carefully run the wires and armored cable through the hole. The easiest way to secure the cable is to use a wire tie on the outside of the firewall, installing it after you pull the cable snug. Wrapping the cable in electrical tape, or using a hose clamp can also accomplish this. My personal preference is the wire tie, as it is easier to remove if necessary. After securing the cable, use Black RTV or body tar to seal around the cable to stop any moisture from getting inside the vehicle.


The Ravelco is a system interrupt device, which means that it will cut two critical circuits needed for vehicle operation. The identification of the correct wires to interrupt is critical. These circuits can be anything that is low current, preferably something that is disabling. Suggestions are: Fuel injection control (as long as it is not the CPU power), fuel control from the fuel pump, ignition control (hot lead to distributor), and starter.

You must identify the wires to two of these circuits, and then follow the wires back into the wiring harness after splitting the harness. The reason for tracing the wire back into the harness is so that the splice connections that you make can be easily hidden from casual observation.

From experience, the two easiest to find are usually the fuel injection power, and the ignition power lines. It's important to trace and splice into the hot wires, and not the ground wires. Some circuits will ground from the connection as well as a wire, so splicing into the ground wire is not as secure.

Once you have identified the correct wire, you will need to cut it, and splice the long black wires into the circuit. Use either the wires with or without the white tabs, but don't mix them. Then identify the second wire to be cut and repeat the process with the other long black wire pair.

That's all there is to it, the Ravelco is active, and the vehicle should not start without the plug installed in the socket.

The last step is to hide your work. Do this by hiding the spliced wires back in the original wire loom. Wrap any exposed wire and the reinforced cable in electrical tape so that it looks like any other wiring circuit under the hood. If you want to, purchase a length of wire loom from the auto parts store, and hide the reinforced cable and wires coming from the firewall with this to make it look like the rest of the wiring in the car.
"

All those directions are well worth spending $650 and not worrying about anything else.

 

[Claasicdrive]

All those directions are well worth spending $650 and not worrying about anything else.

100% agree
I don't like reading instructions either

 

[jonny_pockets]

100% agree
I don't like reading instructions either

That post lost me at DIY…