Effective, Inexpensive, Simple Security Device

Same..i even linked this thread.. Actually the correct part number is on the relay itself but the darn relay has 5 prongs
Mistakes happen..

BTW check your fuses/relays if they are fully pushed.. Under the dash they were aight but under the hood one relay was barely hanging
Good advice and plan on doing this before driving off the lot.
 
WTH he sent me a 5 prong relay . Cant insert it..I'm short a hole
Cut the center pin (terminal 87a) - that's the normally-closed contact, and isn't used in this application.

See your stock relay? See the cut-off terminal, labeled 87a? Yeah... Chrysler did the same thing. That's the difference between a SPST and a SPDT (single-pole/single-throw and single-pole/double-throw) relay... terminal 87a. 87a is used when you want to normally supply a circuit with voltage, and be able to shut it off on command... the opposite of what the starter relay does.
 
The site also has a hardwired transmitter activated by an on/off 12 volt signal. The site describes: "Activate the NoStart™ relay system using high beam control on the turn signal, a powered 12v door lock or unlock, a 12v parking light on/off, defroster switch or a hidden switch etc. . . When activated constant or on/off it will transmit 4 seconds to the NoStart™ relay allowing you 30 seconds to start your vehicle and will reset when the ignition is turned off.”

I think this means that if you connected it to your parking light circuit, when you lock/unlock the car truck with the fob and the parking lights flash, it would enable the truck to start for 30 seconds. Agree? That would eliminate the need to use two fobs, and would also allow remote start.

Does this mean you could basically hook it to any switch in the truck and have that switch activate the relay?
 
Remote is def smaller than a Ram fob. Quarter for reference. I also picked up the OBD Saver. I didn't get the model with the key lock, it looks like it would protrude out way more. This thing is well machined aluminum and the screw heads are unique to a certain bit they include as well as an 8mm driver. I think there's over 600 different security screws so no way anyone could take this off otherwise destroying the port. Shock sensor coming soon as well
Since you got the OBD Saver without the key lock, are you able to close the plastic "door" that covers the ODB port? I know with the key lock version, the Saver sticks out too far to close the plastic door to hide/cover the ODB port. Is that true of the one you got without the key, or can you still close the housing/door to "hide" the port?
 
Since you got the OBD Saver without the key lock, are you able to close the plastic "door" that covers the ODB port? I know with the key lock version, the Saver sticks out too far to close the plastic door to hide/cover the ODB port. Is that true of the one you got without the key, or can you still close the housing/door to "hide" the port?
I'll have to report back when I actually get the truck... I have a 19 Bighorn now and I have no door over the port. However this thing isn't much bigger than the port itself. So if there was a little room around it, it should be fine. I'll see if I can check out my buddies 21 TRX tomorrow and post
 
Does this mean you could basically hook it to any switch in the truck and have that switch activate the relay?
Yes. Well, not ANY switch - only a switch that energizes a circuit, because you would wire this transmitter to that circuit. Things like your high-beam switch (splice the transmitter into the high-beam driver wire), the passenger seat warmer, the rear window slider - they all put power to some circuit you could tap into. But not things like the lane keep assist button, or the cruise control set button - as they only communicate to the control modules.

And yes, you could also use an Aux switch for this.
 
Yes. Well, not ANY switch - only a switch that energizes a circuit, because you would wire this transmitter to that circuit. Things like your high-beam switch (splice the transmitter into the high-beam driver wire), the passenger seat warmer, the rear window slider - they all put power to some circuit you could tap into. But not things like the lane keep assist button, or the cruise control set button - as they only communicate to the control modules.

And yes, you could also use an Aux switch for this.
I'm thinking a switch that isn't an Aux switch as those might be too obvious. I'm not a big electric/mechanic guy.. could you have it wired so that 2 aux switches need to be hit?
 
I'm thinking a switch that isn't an Aux switch as those might be too obvious. I'm not a big electric/mechanic guy.. could you have it wired so that 2 aux switches need to be hit?
Yes, but you'll need to add another relay for that. Let's say you want to use aux1 and aux2. For maximum effectiveness, set them both to momentary, ignition-powered. Wire as follows:

External relay terminal 85 to Aux1 output
External relay terminal 86 to ground
External relay terminal 30 to Aux2 output
External relay terminal 87 to transmitter power lead
transmitter ground lead to ground

With this setup, Aux1 switches the external relay that allows Aux2 to activate the transmitter. Since they're momentary, you have to hold aux1 on while activating aux2, so it makes it just a little more complicated (you can't just try pushing each aux switch in sequence, "turn them all on"). And unless the ignition is in the run position, the aux switches won't function

Now - to start the truck, you need to do the following:

ignition to run
hold Aux1, then press Aux2
Foot on brake, push start
 
Cut the center pin (terminal 87a) - that's the normally-closed contact, and isn't used in this application.

See your stock relay? See the cut-off terminal, labeled 87a? Yeah... Chrysler did the same thing. That's the difference between a SPST and a SPDT (single-pole/single-throw and single-pole/double-throw) relay... terminal 87a. 87a is used when you want to normally supply a circuit with voltage, and be able to shut it off on command... the opposite of what the starter relay does.
What cars use a 5 pin starter relay ? Looks like he mixed it up with another order and I'm curious what car could've been
 
What cars use a 5 pin starter relay ? Looks like he mixed it up with another order and I'm curious what car could've been
No real reason for it, other than maybe to prevent reverse installation - though it really wouldn't matter if the relay was installed backwards.
 
OK, I've posted about this a couple of times, but I have now ordered one and tried it. It seems to work very well. I replaced one of the starter relays, and the truck will not start even with the "key" unless I arm the Mobilistics relay with the wireless fob. The only way I know it could easily be beaten is if the thieves know how to hotwire the starter, but from other posts I've seen it appears they mostly use software to program a new "key" which they use to start the vehicle. This relay would prevent that from working. Maybe y'all can think of another way to defeat it, but other than actually opening up the fuse box and replacing the relay, I cannot.

A drawback is it is necessary to use two fobs to start the truck now, if you consider that much of a hassle. The pluses are it seems to me effective, it costs less than $100, and it doesn't require any wiring modifications, hidden switches, or specially mounted devices. The remote start even works, but you have to be close enough to the truck for the relay to read the Mobilistics fob, which appears to be right beside it.

If anyone is interested, the part number to order is SRI-MG and the website is: https://www.mobilistics.com/nostart...relay-w-remote-starter-fuel-pump-immobilizer/

I have mentioned before but in case anybody is wondering, I am not associated with the product in any way. I just want to recommend something I found that seems to be a good solution to a lot of worries.
Just ordered one. Shipped right away. Thanks, been looking for a way to starter kill it. Been seeing on here a couple have been stolen already.
 
I just got mine in the mail today. I very specifically, in multiple spots on the ordering form, requested the part number the OP describes in his earlier posts. However, the one I received today has a part number sticker that says: "GRI-MG", instead of "SRI-MG" as the OP indicated. It is 4-prong, so I think it'll fit, but I won't be able to try it out for a few weeks as I don't have my truck yet. For those on here smarter than I, let me know if you think there's a significant difference between "SRI-MG" and "GRI-MG". Thanks.
 
I just got mine in the mail today. I very specifically, in multiple spots on the ordering form, requested the part number the OP describes in his earlier posts. However, the one I received today has a part number sticker that says: "GRI-MG", instead of "SRI-MG" as the OP indicated. It is 4-prong, so I think it'll fit, but I won't be able to try it out for a few weeks as I don't have my truck yet. For those on here smarter than I, let me know if you think there's a significant difference between "SRI-MG" and "GRI-MG". Thanks.
I'd send them an email and ask. There has to be some reason they gave them different part numbers.
 
"S" stands for starter and "G" for Gas as in fuel pump relay ? Taking a guess
I sent them a message asking, we'll see what they say. I've heard the same relay can be used for Fuel Pump or Starter, it just depends which relay you replace in the truck.
 
I sent them a message asking, we'll see what they say. I've heard the same relay can be used for Fuel Pump or Starter, it just depends which relay you replace in the truck.
He is an old guy. Never answered by email, but was quick to call me after I left a message.
 
WTH he sent me a 5 prong relay . Cant insert it..I'm short a hole
Just opened mine and I also received the 5 prong labeled SRI-MG. I read where you can cut the middle prong off. I’ll have to give them a call.
 

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