Effective, Inexpensive, Simple Security Device

[Claasicdrive]

And... after all that hand-wringing, my package arrived today with the correct SRI-SG 4-pin relay. Oh well. On the plus side, it worked flawlessly. I may just see if I can swap cases with the OEM relay, as a bit of camouflage.

Please let us know. Can you try while recording a video?

 

[Mud Rat]

@CUOFFRD …No there is no passive feature. You have to press the button.

That is also correct. On the plus side, it allows you to stash the Mobilistics fob in the truck somewhere and not carry it with you all the time, if you think you can find a place the thief won't search around and find it.

 

[OK67TRX]

The remotes are not individually programmed ..correct ? So if this guy becomes popular enough ppl can use their remote to turn on my relay .

And... after all that hand-wringing, my package arrived today with the correct SRI-SG 4-pin relay. Oh well. On the plus side, it worked flawlessly. I may just see if I can swap cases with the OEM relay, as a bit of camouflage.

Tom,

That’s great to hear. I just got an email and they are sending me the correct 4 prong ad well. Glad to see Moblistics is taking care of their customers.

 

[nlflores]

I'd send them an email and ask. There has to be some reason they gave them different part numbers.

I talked to Jimmie at Mobilistics today, he was very responsive and got back to my email in less than 1 day. He said the difference between the SRI-MG and the GRI-MG is that the SRI is only good for a "pulsing" signal, which would work fine for the starter relay. But the GRI can do pulse or steady, so you could use the GRI for the starter, or the fuel pump, or the EFI. He said, sometimes if they're out of the SRI-MG and you order it, the shipping folks will just send out the GRI which is slightly more robust. So, I should be good to go, and if anyone else get the GRI-MG, now you know the difference.

 

[BigWillie]

Key cloning is easy to prevent. Leave your keys in a Faraday box instead of sitting out.

The more likely theft scenario is for the thief to break your window, reach in to unlock the door, hop in, program a new fob to your truck, press the start button and drive off. This wouldn't flash the parking lights, so hooking the hardwired transmitter to the parking lights would thwart this scenario.



I agree on the level of security, though. There is a pretty good chance a thief, who has just programmed a new fob and finds the truck doesn't start, will start mashing buttons on his new fob to see if the programming was successful. He will probably hit lock/unlock and flash the parking lights.

Another alternative to the parking lights is to put the hardwired transmitter on something less likely to be triggered by a thief, like the tailgate release. Then to remote start, you've got to pop your tailgate, and flop it back up before you drive off.



There is, but it'll take a little bit of investigating to figure it out. There's likely a wire from the module that does the remote start that can be tapped. I need to see a wiring diagram. Wiring the hardwired transmitter to this wire would allow the vehicle to remote start, but not button start. To button start, you'd have to use the relay's fob. Or, to forego the relay's fob, you could use two hardwired transmitters, one on the wire from the remote start module and one on a hidden switch or something like your brights that you can actuate when you're at the truck. The hardwired transmitters are cheap ($30), so having more than one isn't a big deal.

As an aside, keeping remote start is a risk, too. If the truck can remote start, and the thief has programmed a new fob, he can remote start it with the new fob, press the start button and drive off.

Just another thought, if you hit lock twice, does the horn sound? If so, you could wire the transmitter to the horn. I would think that is the last thing a thief would want to hit.

Then to remote start, you hit lock twice for the horn to sound and then remote start it. My wife has a Ford Flex and that is the way her remote start works from the factory. She has to lock it first then remote start it. This would add a very simple extra step.

Negative being you would have to do it every time even without remote start, but as you say, you could get another transmitter to use for the manual times and wire it to something else.

 

[Jester]

Anyone have thoughts on this?
View attachment 32805

Anyone?? It's an 800 5 year subscription as well with shock sensors and app enabled start unlock.

 

[Tom488]

There's likely a wire from the module that does the remote start that can be tapped. I need to see a wiring diagram. Wiring the hardwired transmitter to this wire would allow the vehicle to remote start, but not button start.

Yep, you're right. Circuit K618, a brown/black wire, is the run/start relay control wire that runs from the RF Hub (connector C1, pin 6) to the Body Control Module, connector C5/E, pin 27). This is how the RF Hub tells the BCM to initiate a start sequence. Powering a hardwired transmitter from this wire should suffice.

(the bottom-right module is the RF Hub - the top module is the under-hood PDC)

 

[Mud Rat]

Some of these posts are making me wonder what the heck Tom488 does for a living.

 

[Chris85]

An oldie but goodie...

 

[g_force]

An oldie but goodie...

Except we have no trunk. . .

If my mutt wasn't such a sucker for the foot of our bed, I'd set him up to sleep in the bed of my TRX. That'd cause a thief to re-think his life choices as he scrambled to get away from the bite of my 100+lbs German Shephard mix.

 

[1sickveilsidez]

Just ordered relay as well and asked for the part number and specified for the 4 prong, not 5.

Anyone know which part number will work for the shock sensor?

 

[Austinmtlhd]

Just installed it in mine. Took less that 5 minutes. Works like a charm. I hid the original relay in case this one goes our of fob battery dies.

 

[Mud Rat]

I'm relieved to have somebody else install it and back me up! Thanks.

 

[Austinmtlhd]

I'm relieved to have somebody else install it and back me up! Thanks.

No problem, I'm glad you posted this and let us all know it's out there.

 

[ScottSad]

I want to order this relay replacement, but I also want to order an OBD lock. Unfortunately, I'm not sure where the OBD port is. I expected there to be a panel that opens in the knee bolster, based on the comments I've seen from others. However, I looked last night and couldn't see one. Granted it was a bit dark and I was just casually looking, but I couldn't seen anything obvious. Is it under the knee bolster and up? I'm going to take another look after work today, but figured I'd ask in case anyone has an easy answer.

 

[ScottSad]

I want to order this relay replacement, but I also want to order an OBD lock. Unfortunately, I'm not sure where the OBD port is. I expected there to be a panel that opens in the knee bolster, based on the comments I've seen from others. However, I looked last night and couldn't see one. Granted it was a bit dark and I was just casually looking, but I couldn't seen anything obvious. Is it under the knee bolster and up? I'm going to take another look after work today, but figured I'd ask in case anyone has an easy answer.

Okay, I think I found it. Went out there today on my lunch break and crawled under. There is a port that points straight down, but is oriented perpendicular to the dash, not parallel to it like I expected. It's around where my left knee would be, right where the knee bolster ends. If this is it, then an OBD guard is going to project downward a bit. The keyed version would probably be a knee buster for me. Can anyone confirm this is it?

 

[g_force]

I want to order this relay replacement, but I also want to order an OBD lock. Unfortunately, I'm not sure where the OBD port is.

Okay, I think I found it. Went out there today on my lunch break and crawled under. There is a port that points straight down, but is oriented perpendicular to the dash, not parallel to it like I expected. It's around where my left knee would be, right where the knee bolster ends. If this is it, then an OBD guard is going to project downward a bit. The keyed version would probably be a knee buster for me. Can anyone confirm this is it?

It's immediately to the left of the hood release, not really near your knees.

 

[Hello4x]

Just installed it in mine. Took less that 5 minutes. Works like a charm. I hid the original relay in case this one goes our of fob battery dies.

Plan on doing the same.

 

[trashguy]

If you used the wired version and wired to an aux switch then left the switch on all the time would the truck function normal?
then you could just click the switch off when parked somewhere sketchy ?
Also for anyone with the no key universal OBD saver- what do the screws go onto ? does it screw into the obd port terminals ?
wouldn't that cause damage to the port.

 

[Tom488]

If you used the wired version and wired to an aux switch then left the switch on all the time would the truck function normal?
then you could just click the switch off when parked somewhere sketchy ?

Yes... IF the 'remember last state' function worked. Currently, it does not (at least for most people, myself included).