DEAL Ram TRX Driveshaft Group Buy! East Coast Driveline (CLOSED)

[Nick797]

More being made now!

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[RamTrxUSA]

15 shafts went out yesterday!

Any plans to set up

More being made now!

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Any plans for another group buy?

 

[Todd]

Got mine today and installed. Added a few pics for the guys wondering how to do this. Beating the oold universal bearing out took the longest out it all. Probably 2 hr all together.

 

[GC34]

Got mine today and installed. Added a few pics for the guys wondering how to do this. Beating the oold universal bearing out took the longest out it all. Probably 2 hr all together.

What size sockets did you use?

 

[Todd]

What size sockets did you use?

Drive shaft bolts are 5/8. I think I used 22mm to knock out old bearings. 13/16 is close also.

 

[Krewton]

We’ll get shipping and tracking notifications when these are shipped correct?

 

[TheDude]

Mine got delivered today. It feels pretty light, too.

 

[Nick797]

We’ll get shipping and tracking notifications when these are shipped correct?

Yes just like normal on our site. As they are made in batches. Round 1 went out already in the order that they were placed.

 

[Nick797]

Any plans to set up

Any plans for another group buy?

We could! He mentioned doing a front one as well.

 

[GC34]

Just received mine, hoping to install it this weekend amongst other stuff

 

[Obi Wong Kenobi]

We could! He mentioned doing a front one as well.

Is the front one beneficial for a stock TRX or just to withstand more power?

 

[Nick797]

Is the front one beneficial for a stock TRX or just to withstand more power?

Just for more power on these.

 

[Bjammin101]

I installed my driveshaft yesterday in the garage with the help of a friend. The extra set of hands really helps with this. I also had to run to Harbor Freight and get a ball joint service kit ($85) to help remove the U-joints from the old shaft and install on the new one. I tried to knock out the joints with a socket and hammer but that wasn't really working. I didnt have to move the truck to take off the driveshaft but I did have to move it after installing the new one so I could properly tighten everything back up. Link below:

https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63610.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21905696056&campaignid=21905696056&utm_content=169026379663&adsetid=169026379663&product=63610&store=483&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21905696056&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4e9ScxUE7Im76UzSzJx5hCK0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlMDdt-bSjQMVAidECB0GwQU9EAQYAiABEgLXJfD_BwE

I have only driven to work so far but I could immediately tell a difference and the driveline feels so much smoother. It's crazy that you get accustomed to the clunk, and then when it's gone, you are still expecting it every time you come to a stop or take off. Definitely solved the clunk issue for me.

 

[Nick797]

There is a few guys left I know that. Last batch hopefully will be done this week!

 

[Krewton]

Eagerly awaiting shipping notification! Got my truck in November and can’t believe how noticeable the clunk got when it got warm finally.

 

[Eighty]

I tried to knock out the joints with a socket and hammer but that wasn't really working. I didnt have to move the truck to take off the driveshaft but I did have to move it after installing the new one so I could properly tighten everything back up.

I’m back from my Iceland trip, and plan to tackle this install tomorrow (by myself). rather than buying a new tool, I’m thinking of using an old gear puller that I haven’t touched for 30+ years. Think this will work, based on your experience? This is a crude mockup on the new shaft, just to see if it would fit.

Also, I’m curious about how much you had to move the truck to tighten it all up. I was wondering if that would be an issue, getting the new shaft to line up perfectly. If the bolts don’t thread in, it would be a little tough to move the truck without a driveshaft connected.

 

[GC34]

I’m back from my Iceland trip, and plan to tackle this install tomorrow (by myself). rather than buying a new tool, I’m thinking of using an old gear puller that I haven’t touched for 30+ years. Think this will work, based on your experience? This is a crude mockup on the new shaft, just to see if it would fit.

Also, I’m curious about how much you had to move the truck to tighten it all up. I was wondering if that would be an issue, getting the new shaft to line up perfectly. If the bolts don’t thread in, it would be a little tough to move the truck without a driveshaft connected.

View attachment 147050

Can't you spin one of the ends if you block the tires and pull the neutral strap?

 

[Eighty]

Can't you spin one of the ends if you block the tires and pull the neutral strap?

Possibly. That’s a good thought, just in case. Guess I’ll have to find the tool to remove the neutral strap security plate before I start.

 

[OnTheReel]

I’ve never had to actually move my truck to tighten the driveshaft bolts, but I am running the stock one. I do have to jack up the back of the truck so I can turn the rear wheels slightly and get the rear driveshaft flange to mesh up all the way with the axle. But that’s not a big deal.

 

[IdahoKTM]

I’ve never had to actually move my truck to tighten the driveshaft bolts, but I am running the stock one. I do have to jack up the back of the truck so I can turn the rear wheels slightly and get the rear driveshaft flange to mesh up all the way with the axle. But that’s not a big deal.

I just jacked up the back end of the truck from underneath the pumpkin, started up the truck, put it in gear and slowly released the brakes. It seemed easier than using the neutral release strap.