DEAL Ram TRX Driveshaft Group Buy! East Coast Driveline (CLOSED)

[LordExplorer]

We could! He mentioned doing a front one as well.

I’m in on another group buy

 

[Bjammin101]

I’m back from my Iceland trip, and plan to tackle this install tomorrow (by myself). rather than buying a new tool, I’m thinking of using an old gear puller that I haven’t touched for 30+ years. Think this will work, based on your experience? This is a crude mockup on the new shaft, just to see if it would fit.

Also, I’m curious about how much you had to move the truck to tighten it all up. I was wondering if that would be an issue, getting the new shaft to line up perfectly. If the bolts don’t thread in, it would be a little tough to move the truck without a driveshaft connected.

View attachment 147050

This looks like it would work and do the same job the tool i bought did. However, you will need to have something to black the other side when you press the joints on the new shaft.

Like everyone else was saying, you can jack up the rear end to spin the tires and line up the new driveshaft. I did have one bolt on both sides I just ended up moving the truck 6"-12" to get the bolts i had missed. I used a ratcheting wrench to tighten up the bolts since my torque wrench couldn't fit to tighten accordingly. I did do a short around the block drive and normal commute to work and then checked tightness once I got home. After going around the block, I had a couple of bolts to tighten. After going to work, everything was still tight.

 

[Eighty]

Ok I’ve got a question. Got the new driveshaft hung, all four bolts on the front are in and tight. But the rear is about 1/8 of a turn off from lining up. I’ve got one bolt in, just to keep it hung.
How do I turn the rear wheels to line everything up? The rear is on jackstands, and the wheels won’t budge. Can’t turn off the parking brake - at least not in ACC or Ignition power (engine off). What’s the trick here?

 

[TRXMIKE]

Ok I’ve got a question. Got the new driveshaft hung, all four bolts on the front are in and tight. But the rear is about 1/8 of a turn off from lining up. I’ve got one bolt in, just to keep it hung.
How do I turn the rear wheels to line everything up? The rear is on jackstands, and the wheels won’t budge. Can’t turn off the parking brake - at least not in ACC or Ignition power (engine off). What’s the trick here?

Pull the release strap unless you can't for some reason.

 

[Eighty]

Pull the release strap unless you can't for some reason.

Never mind, I figured it out. You have to put it in run (engine off), and push the brake pedal. Then the parking brake can turn off.

 

[Eighty]

Just took it for a test drive. Letting the exhaust cool down before I go back under to check bolt tightness.

Initial impressions are great. To be honest, it feels like a different truck. Losing the clunk at starts and stops is one thing, but I guess I didn’t realize how much driveline slop I had. Now the driveline feels smooth as butter at all times (gear upshifts, coasting, downshifts). Wish I had done this sooner.

 

[LouDogg]

Anyone have the part numbers for the flange yokes to stock drive shaft?

 

[GC34]

Anyone have the part numbers for the flange yokes to stock drive shaft?

Quick search I see the only options to order are the bolts, boot or the full driveshaft

 

[LouDogg]

Quick search I see the only options to order are the bolts, boot or the full driveshaft

yeah, I see the same thing on the MOPAR website. See some things on eBay but I need a part number to cross reference.

 

[Eighty]

I didn’t see a part number on the yokes. There was a “DT” marking on the shaft-side yoke. But other than that, the only identifier was the Mopar part number sticker (for the driveshaft).
if you’re worried about making the flange swap, I wouldn’t sweat it. It takes a little time (maybe an hour), but isn’t terribly difficult. There are a couple of ways to get it out. Honestly, beating it out with a 13/16” socket is probably the most straightforward.

 

[LouDogg]

I didn’t see a part number on the yokes. There was a “DT” marking on the shaft-side yoke. But other than that, the only identifier was the Mopar part number sticker (for the driveshaft).
if you’re worried about making the flange swap, I wouldn’t sweat it. It takes a little time (maybe an hour), but isn’t terribly difficult. There are a couple of ways to get it out. Honestly, beating it out with a 13/16” socket is probably the most straightforward.

The job seems straightforward, but the last time I installed new U-joints on my '06 Tundra, I ended up with some vibration. I had to remove the driveshaft again and take it to a shop for balancing. This time, I just want to minimize downtime.

 

[Bjammin101]

I didn’t see a part number on the yokes. There was a “DT” marking on the shaft-side yoke. But other than that, the only identifier was the Mopar part number sticker (for the driveshaft).
if you’re worried about making the flange swap, I wouldn’t sweat it. It takes a little time (maybe an hour), but isn’t terribly difficult. There are a couple of ways to get it out. Honestly, beating it out with a 13/16” socket is probably the most straightforward.

I hope you didn't actually beat it out with a socket, lol. I tried this the first time and mine was not budging. I would have been there 3 hours just to do that part. The one time use tool was well worth the $80 for my peace of mind.

 

[Eighty]

I hope you didn't actually beat it out with a socket, lol. I tried this the first time and mine was not budging. I would have been there 3 hours just to do that part. The one time use tool was well worth the $80 for my peace of mind.

I used a gear puller with some assistance from a hammer to help budge it. But I also used a socket as the cups got looser (it was faster than tightening the gear puller). Also used the socket to tap everything back together.

 

[Jcall34]

When you get the East Coast driveline, do you need to order anything else for install?

 

[Nick797]

When you get the East Coast driveline, do you need to order anything else for install?

Nope! Unless you need tools.


And everyone else seems to be okay right?! Sorry Im failing to keep up with the comments. Appreciate all the feedback in here.

 

[Bjammin101]

When you get the East Coast driveline, do you need to order anything else for install?

I would buy this tool and preferably have an extra set of hands. Also, make sure you have a wrench that can get to the bolts for tightening when putting the driveshaft back in. My air rachet was able to take of the bolts but was not able to fit to put them back in.

 

[Tornitron]

How much does this shaft weigh vs the factory shaft?

 

[Eighty]

I would buy this tool and preferably have an extra set of hands. Also, make sure you have a wrench that can get to the bolts for tightening when putting the driveshaft back in. My air rachet was able to take of the bolts but was not able to fit to put them back in.

Yes, good point. Even my larger box-end wrench didn't work for the bolts that were sandwiched between the driveshaft and the body. I had to pull out a short wrench (and could still only crank 1/6 of a turn at a time).
The yoke flanges on the new driveshaft won't accommodate a socket wrench.

 

[Eighty]

How much does this shaft weigh vs the factory shaft?

I thought about putting them on a scale to compare, but forgot. Going by feel, I'd say the new shaft is a couple of pounds heavier (maybe 5 lbs?)

 

[Bjammin101]

I thought about putting them on a scale to compare, but forgot. Going by feel, I'd say the new shaft is a couple of pounds heavier (maybe 5 lbs?)

I meant to do the same and also forgot. But the new shaft is slightly heavier. I would also say it seemed like that 3-5 lb range.