FAS lower pulley...

I’m here yet again to apologize on delays of Predator Orders. Nico(fas) said with the hurricane this week to expect delays and they should be in bound to us next week(fingers crossed).
 
I’m here yet again to apologize on delays of Predator Orders. Nico(fas) said with the hurricane this week to expect delays and they should be in bound to us next week(fingers crossed).
I was gonna ask Nico or maybe you can throw a receipt in there when it ships for 100 bucks for the wife thanks!
 
Has anyone tried to order from Barth Tuning? Not sure if he has any in stock or if he can get it sooner.

I can say that pulley is without a doubt a better design than the Ripa-off version.

Not sure why anyone is still buying from them, its obvious he uses customers money to fund these pre-order scams he does and customers have to wait months and months at a time to get their orders that are no different that what other suppliers are already doing and there is no wait.
 
I'm on the fence with regard to this pulley. I purchased the extended warranty from Granger and am just assuming this could/would potentially void the warranty if I had engine problems at some point. Any arguments for/against the product based on this concern? It seems logical that I probably shouldn't pull the trigger, but all these reviews sure make me want to...
 
I think this could be debated forever, but in my humble opinion, you should be able to run it without issue. It just slips over the factory crank pulley so as long as you don’t trash the factory crank pulley in the process, you should be able to return to stock if necessary without a trace. It should be noted though that the factory crank bolt is torque to yield so it would be a good idea to buy an extra one or hold onto the OEM one for a quick trip to the dealer lol

I think if you run the black belt and you blacked out the predator logo on the front face of the pulley, no one doing routine maintenance/etc would probably ever see it unless they were looking at your engine for something.
 
I think this could be debated forever, but in my humble opinion, you should be able to run it without issue. It just slips over the factory crank pulley so as long as you don’t trash the factory crank pulley in the process, you should be able to return to stock if necessary without a trace. It should be noted though that the factory crank bolt is torque to yield so it would be a good idea to buy an extra one or hold onto the OEM one for a quick trip to the dealer lol

I think if you run the black belt and you blacked out the predator logo on the front face of the pulley, no one doing routine maintenance/etc would probably ever see it unless they were looking at your engine for something.
A nice dealer will try to warranty it even if you have had it installed. A dick dealer won’t. And if it’s actually the route of a new motor then corporate involvement means it won’t be warrantied. The slip over pulley leaves data on the PCM. It’s been discussed at length. I’m not sure why people think if the hardware isn’t there when they pull into the dealer that that means they are able to defraud the dealer. What’s the first thing you do when you pull in? Download the data.

There is no such thing as “without a trace.”
 
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A nice dealer will try to warranty it even if you have had it installed. A dick dealer won’t. And if it’s actually the route of a new motor then corporate involvement means it won’t be warrantied. The slip over pulley leaves data on the PCM. It’s been discussed at length. I’m not sure why people think if the hardware isn’t there when they pull into the dealer that that means they are able to defraud the dealer. What’s the first thing you do when you pull in? Download the data.
What data in particular- boost?
 
Boost ratio between MAP1 and MAP2 showing that the compression ratio of the blower has been increased.
So if coupling the air intake withers the pulley, but also adding in the headers which dropped boost pressure back to 11 psi, would they still be able to tell the pulley had been there?
 
So if coupling the air intake withers the pulley, but also adding in the headers which dropped boost pressure back to 11 psi, would they still be able to tell the pulley had been there?
Headers won’t drop it back 4 psi.
 
Headers won’t drop it back 4 psi.
I know they wont be that drastic, but here in houston, Tx, my truck has never seen above 12 psi, mostly stays in the 11's. I did the intake, pulley and headers all at the same time, so cant say how much more boost the intake and pulley made
 
Nope, intake is before the MAP sensor in the snout.
OK so your position with respect to the Predator pulley is that they will say we pulled the data logs and noticed at some point your truck was registering approx. 12lbs of boost as opposed to 11, and that 1 extra pound of boost was the cause of the hypothetical engine failure (despite there being no aftermarket parts that would increase boost installed on the truck at the time of the dealer inspection)?
 
OK so your position with respect to the Predator pulley is that they will say we pulled the data logs and noticed at some point your truck was registering approx. 12lbs of boost as opposed to 11, and that 1 extra pound of boost was the cause of the hypothetical engine failure (despite there being no aftermarket parts that would increase boost installed on the truck at the time of the dealer inspection)?
FAS advertises a 2 psi gain. From the dealer and manufacturer perspective it has nothing to do with the absolute value of boost (which I think you keeping getting hung up on). What they will care about is the ratio between atmospheric and post-rotor which is a set ratio that can be easily seen in the data. It’s the ratio that is hardware driven by your pulley setup. At least two other folks on this forum have chimed in and said that their dealership will void the warranty for anyone running a slip over pulley.

Now there is a chance that at higher altitudes if you pulley up a bit and the absolute value of boost remains under the designed boost at sea level that you could fight the manufacturer to have to prove that the engine failure was due to the pulley given that the motor was still operating within the design envelope. But that’s getting into a legal battle and you will have to look at more than just pressure ratio (bring in blower RPM, heat, etc).

I’ll say it again… you pay to play. Amazing the effort and hypothetical scheming that folks will do to try and defraud the manufacturer. Want a warranty? Don’t try to push the motor beyond the design.
 
When removed from the vehicle you will still have traces of e85 in the fuel system which is an easy check for the dealer. Oil analysis will also show the use of e85. And a quick look at the PCM will show roughly 30% higher injector duty cycles for a given CFM into the motor in its history. There are actually multiple other threads about this product on this site discussing this about 2 years ago. There is no way to run e85 and keep the factory powertrain warranty. It’s gone.

You are confusing two different topics about the powertrain with regard to modding and tuning. The first is strengthening the drivetrain to handle higher loads. The second is actually adjusting tuning to manage those higher loads. When you tune you don’t “remove the stock limits,” you change the management of hundreds of variables in order to avoid applying increased loads to the drivetrain (especially shock and frictional).

All that commander adjusts is fuel flow based on ethanol content. A proper tune on the PCM/TCM for changes in fuel type will adjust fuel, timing, torque management, shift controls, etc. For a simple example, you are pushing 10% more torque via e85 and the commander through the trans. Constant torque through the drivetrain doesn’t do much damage until you are far exceeding the initial design limit. However, you are also using the entire stock TCM map for that 10% higher torque for shift times, line pressures, torque management, etc which means you are asking the trans to “shift the same” with the increased power. On the actual correct tune you dial these down or up accordingly to minimize wear on the trans and driveline. I have two different TCM maps for my truck. One is low wear on the trans where we have adjusted all of the torque management to minimize driveline shock and eating up the friction plates with longer shift times, FSO, etc. Run this daily and when towing. The other is a faster shifting setup which will wear the trans components more quickly just for the strip.

In other words, a proper tune can be setup to both utilize the power benefit of the e85 and mitigate the added stress on the drivetrain. The commander cannot do both. Personally if I’m out of warranty then I want to mitigate the added stress.
Thank you very much for taking the time to write this detailed explanation. I greatly appreciate it!
 
FAS advertises a 2 psi gain. From the dealer and manufacturer perspective it has nothing to do with the absolute value of boost (which I think you keeping getting hung up on). What they will care about is the ratio between atmospheric and post-rotor which is a set ratio that can be easily seen in the data. It’s the ratio that is hardware driven by your pulley setup. At least two other folks on this forum have chimed in and said that their dealership will void the warranty for anyone running a slip over pulley.

Now there is a chance that at higher altitudes if you pulley up a bit and the absolute value of boost remains under the designed boost at sea level that you could fight the manufacturer to have to prove that the engine failure was due to the pulley given that the motor was still operating within the design envelope. But that’s getting into a legal battle and you will have to look at more than just pressure ratio (bring in blower RPM, heat, etc).

I’ll say it again… you pay to play. Amazing the effort and hypothetical scheming that folks will do to try and defraud the manufacturer. Want a warranty? Don’t try to push the motor beyond the design.
I guess I dont side with the corps with big pockets. I'll always side with the hardworking man (or woman) who wants to tinker & add a few extra ponies at home with simple bolt-ons. I dont see it as defrauding the dealer any more than I see them not fixing the infamous clunk and stealing hours/days of our time bringing the truck back & forth to the dealer for the same known problem they refuse to remedy - as defrauding us. At the end of the day, they have a helluva lot more money to do right by us than we have time to be dickin around with them.
 
Watch it carefully just above 5k rpms. Itll blip to 12 before going back to 11 at redline
ii suspect my stock belt might be slipping. I have a video of a pull after it rained and cooled down going about 30 in 3rd gear, kick down to 2nd only hit 7psi, 3rd hits 10psi same with 4th. Ambient temp was 76. Either way will have the predator pully installed soon when i get it.
 

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