Effective, Inexpensive, Simple Security Device

[Claasicdrive]

I think I'm the one that started the whole relay #1 thing (K09 on the box cover). Remember I had to send Mobilistics a photograph of my box and show them which relay I wanted to replace. I had no idea why there were 2 starter relays, and just randomly picked one. So they're probably recommending relay #1 based on my information, which is a dangerous thing to do, as opposed to any analysis of our electrical system.

Can you upload your pic and circle relay 2 ?

 

[Mud Rat]

Here's the picture. I replaced the K09 relay noted with the arrow. I believe Tom 488 is calling this relay #1, and that relay #2 he recommends replacing would be the one directly above and perpendicular to it in my photograph. He needs to chime in and confirm for us though, in case I have misunderstood.

 

[1sickveilsidez]

Yeah, someone post an actual picture for those of us that barely finished elementary school on where relay #2 doesn’t draw from the battery LOL

 

[Claasicdrive]

Here's the picture. I replaced the K09 relay noted with the arrow. I believe Tom 488 is calling this relay #1, and that relay #2 he recommends replacing would be the one directly above and perpendicular to it in my photograph. He needs to chime in and confirm for us though, in case I have misunderstood.

So...you belive Tom says if you use the other gray relay that touches the brown relay we should not draw any parasitic power ...2 relays are by the brown relay, the one circled by you and the one Tom talks about. Correct?

 

[Mud Rat]

I think these are the two Tom is calling #1 and #2.

 

[Tom488]

If you move to relay #2, would your vehicle start sequence be (non-remote start): press run/start button in truck followed by Mobilistics button (would need to provide relay #2 power). If I’m following correctly sequence: Mobilistics fob disarm followed by run/start button wouldn’t work.

Correct... I actually wasn't thinking of the Mobilistics remote for normal start (because I wired in the hardwired transmitter), but you're right - you would need to either press the vehicle start, followed closely by the Mobilistics remote (before the truck timed out and gave up trying to start), OR - turn the ignition to run, then press Mobilistics relay, THEN step on brake and press Start again.

Upon further thought, no - the above stricken text won't work - because the relay #2 socket will only get power during a start attempt... turning the ignition to run will NOT power relay #2. Only attempting to start the truck will supply power to starter relay #2, and allow the Mobilistics relay to receive the signal from the transmitter.

Sorry for the confusion...

 

[Tom488]

I think these are the two Tom is calling #1 and #2.

Correct... (and it's not just me - the Mopar wiring diagram calls them #1 and #2, too )

And, just to re-confirm... my Mobilistics relay (dressed up as an OEM relay) is currently sitting in K06 socket - diagram from the wiring manual here:.

The manual calls K09 starter (relay) #1, and K06 starter (relay) #2, as seen here:

The wiring diagram I posted on the previous page shows the common terminal of relay #1 draws power from Fuse #F40, straight from the battery. It shows relay #2's common terminal gets power from the N/O terminal of relay #1 - so relay 1 powers relay 2. I'll re-post the wiring diagram here, so everything is in one spot:

Note that I have not actually confirmed the above with a voltmeter... I'm assuming the wiring diagrams are correct. But, given my attempts to start the truck with the relays in both positions, I have no reason to doubt any of the above:

With the Mobilistics relay in the K09 socket (relay #1), the truck would start either way:
- Press button on Mobilistics transmitter, then step on brake, push start button.
- Step on brake, push Start button (nothing happens), THEN press Mobilistics transmitter... truck starts.

That works either way, because in the K09 socket, the relay gets constant power.

With the Mobilistics relay moved to socket K06 (relay #2 position), the truck would ONLY start if you do the following:
- Step on brake, push start (nothing happens), then push Mobilistics transmitter - truck will start

The above happens because the K06/starter #2 relay is only powered when the K09/starter #1 relay is engaged.

I think I like the fact that it's a little more complicated in the #2 position... if you don't do the whole sequence in the right order, no start for you.

Whew... I think the horse has sufficiently been beaten into a bucket full of glue.

 

[1sickveilsidez]

Yeah……. So……. This one?

Sorry I don’t understand the tech talk, but I can follow real pictures

 

[Hello4x]

Correct... (and it's not just me - the Mopar wiring diagram calls them #1 and #2, too )

And, just to re-confirm... my Mobilistics relay (dressed up as an OEM relay) is currently sitting in K06 socket - diagram from the wiring manual here:.

View attachment 33382

The manual calls K09 starter (relay) #1, and K06 starter (relay) #2, as seen here:

View attachment 33383

The wiring diagram I posted on the previous page shows the common terminal of relay #1 draws power from Fuse #F40, straight from the battery. It shows relay #2's common terminal gets power from the N/O terminal of relay #1 - so relay 1 powers relay 2. I'll re-post the wiring diagram here, so everything is in one spot:

View attachment 33384

Note that I have not actually confirmed the above with a voltmeter... I'm assuming the wiring diagrams are correct. But, given my attempts to start the truck with the relays in both positions, I have no reason to doubt any of the above:

With the Mobilistics relay in the K09 socket (relay #1), the truck would start either way:
- Press button on Mobilistics transmitter, then step on brake, push start button.
- Step on brake, push Start button (nothing happens), THEN press Mobilistics transmitter... truck starts.

That works either way, because in the K09 socket, the relay gets constant power.

With the Mobilistics relay moved to socket K06 (relay #2 position), the truck would ONLY start if you do the following:
- Step on brake, push start (nothing happens), then push Mobilistics transmitter - truck will start

The above happens because the K06/starter #2 relay is only powered when the K09/starter #1 relay is engaged.

I think I like the fact that it's a little more complicated in the #2 position... if you don't do the whole sequence in the right order, no start for you.

Whew... I think the horse has sufficiently been beaten into a bucket full of glue.

Nice write up and appreciate your contributions. I’m going back and forth and the original method @Mud Rat located may be best for my usage (more seamless when you have passengers in the vehicle and easier for my wife ). If the truck will sit for awhile, I can always switch to the second method to minimize battery consumption.

Agree, the second method is a bit more complex.

 

[Mud Rat]

I think that's the wrong one, sick.

 

[nlflores]

Yeah……. So……. This one?

Sorry I don’t understand the tech talk, but I can follow real pictures
View attachment 33388

No, the one to the LEFT in the picture from the one the yellow arrow is pointing at. The red arrow is pointing to the wrong one.

 

[Claasicdrive]

Someone make a drawing with a blue arrow that points to the correct red arrow ...Dont touch the yelllow arrow, that's good . Alternatively use a purple arrow to show where the blue arrow is. Thank you

 

[1sickveilsidez]

My mistake everyone, I should have been more clear.

I installed mine where the yellow arrow is pointing, as it was in the original post.

Tom posted saying that location will have a tiny parasitic draw on the battery and suggested installing the relay in another spot.

I was just trying to figure out which location would not have the draw.

I’ll delete my previous post as to not confuse anyone else. Carry on

 

[Mud Rat]

Someone make a drawing with a blue arrow that points to the correct red arrow ...Dont touch the yelllow arrow, that's good . Alternatively use a purple arrow to show where the blue arrow is. Thank you

Dang, I was halfway done trying to figure out how to add blue and purple arrows with my rudimentary Commodore 64 programs and save the files in an uploadable format before I realized you were joking...

 

[brettwingfield]

Correct... (and it's not just me - the Mopar wiring diagram calls them #1 and #2, too )

And, just to re-confirm... my Mobilistics relay (dressed up as an OEM relay) is currently sitting in K06 socket - diagram from the wiring manual here:.

View attachment 33382

The manual calls K09 starter (relay) #1, and K06 starter (relay) #2, as seen here:

View attachment 33383

The wiring diagram I posted on the previous page shows the common terminal of relay #1 draws power from Fuse #F40, straight from the battery. It shows relay #2's common terminal gets power from the N/O terminal of relay #1 - so relay 1 powers relay 2. I'll re-post the wiring diagram here, so everything is in one spot:

View attachment 33384

Note that I have not actually confirmed the above with a voltmeter... I'm assuming the wiring diagrams are correct. But, given my attempts to start the truck with the relays in both positions, I have no reason to doubt any of the above:

With the Mobilistics relay in the K09 socket (relay #1), the truck would start either way:
- Press button on Mobilistics transmitter, then step on brake, push start button.
- Step on brake, push Start button (nothing happens), THEN press Mobilistics transmitter... truck starts.

That works either way, because in the K09 socket, the relay gets constant power.

With the Mobilistics relay moved to socket K06 (relay #2 position), the truck would ONLY start if you do the following:
- Step on brake, push start (nothing happens), then push Mobilistics transmitter - truck will start

The above happens because the K06/starter #2 relay is only powered when the K09/starter #1 relay is engaged.

I think I like the fact that it's a little more complicated in the #2 position... if you don't do the whole sequence in the right order, no start for you.

Whew... I think the horse has sufficiently been beaten into a bucket full of glue.

I assume remote start will still work with the Mobilistics Relay in spot #2, as long as you hit the Mobilistics transmitter within the allotted time after you hit key fob?

 

[Tom488]

I assume remote start will still work with the Mobilistics Relay in spot #2, as long as you hit the Mobilistics transmitter within the allotted time after you hit key fob?

Yes - I did just that.

 

[Claasicdrive]

Yes - I did just that.

and you are saying k06 has no draw when the car is turned off.

 

[Tom488]

and you are saying k06 has no draw when the car is turned off.

That's right.

 

[os1r1s]

That's right.

Do you know if the bed light of the Bed Utility Group is always powered? If so, it might be a good line to tap for a remote GPS tracker ...

 

[Tom488]

Do you know if the bed light of the Bed Utility Group is always powered? If so, it might be a good line to tap for a remote GPS tracker ...

I believe it is, but my 2019 wiring diagrams don't specifically show the BUG lighting, though I suspect it's the same as the Ram Box lighting circuit, which is indeed hot all the time.

An easier point might just be the fused battery wire on the trailer tow connector. Find it at the 24-pin gray connector behind the rear bumper, driver's side. Pin #1, the big red wire, is the fused B+ line (fed by fuse #1 in the internal PDC). If you want, pin 24 on that same connector, big white wire is the ground.