Effective, Inexpensive, Simple Security Device

Hopefully the mobilistics helps. All part of my Defense in Depth strategy. I've also been looking at the OBD port lock that was linked in this thread, and I'm hoping someone could help me with some questions around it. In looking at it, it looks as if it screws right into the face of the OBD port. Will this damage the port? I know nothing about OBD ports, so I am not sure where contact is made. Is is the ports on the outside of the large groove? Does the large groove contain any contacts, because that seems to be where the two screws bite.

Is the OBD port easily replaced if damaged? I wouldn't mind locking the OBD port with this, but I'm worried about actually doing damage to the port.
 
Not sure if the OBD cover is worth it because most videos show they plug the reprogrammed into the Canbus on the drivers or passenger sides?
 
Not sure if the OBD cover is worth it because most videos show they plug the reprogrammed into the Canbus on the drivers or passenger sides?
I'm not familiar with that. Where is it located?
 
Seemed to be decent. All metal construction with a key. On a side note I think the last security item I put in one of my cars was a Kenwood pull out. Not sure if anyone is old enough to remember those.
 
Seemed to be decent. All metal construction with a key. On a side note I think the last security item I put in one of my cars was a Kenwood pull out. Not sure if anyone is old enough to remember those.
I had one! And a special bag to carry it around it when I yanked it.
 
I remember walking around the Lakeside Mall carrying that thing:)
 
Do you have a US website for that product? All I can find is German or European.
No, I don't. It looks to be the same manufacturer that someone else previously linked in this thread.
 
Do you have a US website for that product? All I can find is German or European.
 
I saw that link, but I think it is a different manufacturer.
 
Someone said that the obd lock with key is too big and won't allow the cover to close . Not sure what the issue is but you guys can verify before buying
 
Someone said that the obd lock with key is too big and won't allow the cover to close . Not sure what the issue is but you guys can verify before buying
As far as I can tell, there is no cover to the port on the TRX. I think it just points downward, uncovered.
 
Good question... so I dug out my DVM. The answer is, yes - if you replace starter relay #1, as the directions tell you to. This starter relay gets its feed straight from the battery, and as such, the Mobilistics relay is drawing current all the time. However, it's only drawing 33 or 34 mA (my meter couldn't make up its mind - so call it 34mA). With a typical reserve capacity of 60AH, that would take over 1700 hours to drain the battery. In a weeks time, it would pull 5.7AH out of the battery, or a little under 10%.

However, if you were concerned, you could replace starter relay #2 instead, as starter relay #2 is powered by starter relay #1 (see attached diagram). Starter relay #2 is directly above starter relay #1 in the PDC, looking it at from the side of the truck (#2 is closer to the engine than #1).

I confirmed that all functionality works with the Mobilistics relay in position #2, and thanks to you pointing this out, I'm going to leave it in the #2 position - I don't like extra parasitic draw either, no matter how minor.

I believe Mobilistics advises replacing relay #1, due to the added complication of remote start. With the relay in #1, you can remote start by EITHER pressing the Mobilistics transmitter, then activating remote start on your keyfob - or the other way around. Doesn't matter, because in position #1, the Mobilistics relay always has power.

BUT - with the Mobilistics relay in position #2, you HAVE to activate remote start FIRST, so relay #1 can power up the Mobilistics relay. Only then, AFTER giving the truck about a second or two, while it's silently TRYING to crank the engine, can you hit the Mobilistics transmitter to engage the smart relay, and start the truck. It's a timing thing, and if you goof it up, remote start will disable itself until you start the truck manually.

So take your pick - add 34mA to your ignition-off draw, and have convenient remote start, or eliminate the parasitic draw, while slightly complicating your remote start sequence. Life's full of choices, right? :)

View attachment 33359

(in the above diagram, fuse #40 is fed directly from the battery - and the output of relay #2 goes off to the left to the starter. The Mobilistics relay draws it's power to operate from pin 30)

Wow- what great information. For someone without remote start, it seems like a no-brainer to put this in #2 position. Can you show this on a picture of the relay box?
 
As far as I can tell, there is no cover to the port on the TRX. I think it just points downward, uncovered.
Here is the post i was referring to
 
This entire thread is fantastic info- kudos to everybody pioneering this stuff! I plan on getting a mobilistics relay setup once my truck gets here.

Forgive me if I missed this- I saw a few comments about using aux switches but I didn't see any real conclusion. Is it possible to wire in a specific sequence like: aux switch 1 and 3 have to be on before the truck will start? I realize this could negate having remote start at times, but in a sketchy area, you would flip them off, and when you get in, just switch them on?
 

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