Effective, Inexpensive, Simple Security Device

[brettwingfield]

Just ordered @Mud Rat . Thank you for all your help with this. Looking into the OBD saver and shock sensor as well. Thanks for everyone’s input. Now I need a truck to put it all on.

 

[CUOFFRD]

Yep, you're right. Circuit K618, a brown/black wire, is the run/start relay control wire that runs from the RF Hub (connector C1, pin 6) to the Body Control Module, connector C5/E, pin 27). This is how the RF Hub tells the BCM to initiate a start sequence. Powering a hardwired transmitter from this wire should suffice.

View attachment 32868

(the bottom-right module is the RF Hub - the top module is the under-hood PDC)

This is very intriguing. Has anyone tried to hardwire one like this? I rarely “need” to use remote start but I almost always do walking up to the vehicle.

 

[trashguy]

Yes... IF the 'remember last state' function worked. Currently, it does not (at least for most people, myself included).

gotcha thanks

 

[Cromin8tor]

I’ve been reading through all of this stuff and I’m a big believer that sometimes the most obvious is the least obvious. I’m thinking about using one of the auxiliary switches to interrupt the fuel pump relay. You can program the auxiliary switch to be in the “return to state mode“ so when the key is turned on the auxiliary switch returns on and the truck runs you turn the truck off and the return the state mode turn the auxiliary switch to off and then the fuel pump doesn’t work anymore.
if that doesn’t work for anybody then I might just make it where I don’t have the return to state mode so when I get in the truck and turn the truck on I have to push the auxiliary button on to reengaged the fuel relay so it will start.

i’ll let you guys know if this works if I ever get my freaking truck

 

[Tom488]

Please let us know. Can you try while recording a video?

No video, but here are both relays disassembled:

Very simple - you'll see the two locking tabs on the short sides on the OEM relay, and the four tabs on the long sides of the smart relay. Just pry the case over the tabs with a small (VERY small) flat screwdriver.

There were a few ridges inside the OEM relay case that I trimmed with a flat-blade Exacto knife (using it like a small wood chisel). It's still a tight fit, and you have to either notch out the OEM case to clear the four locking tabs on the smart relay base, or trim the tabs off the base so they don't bulge the case. Either way, a couple drops of super glue will hold the base and case together. When it's done, your smart relay will look like this:

 

[MAMMOTHTRX]

This is a much better solution to the Ravelco. Still think the best and least pain option if you are worried and need "piece" of mind is fake obd or obd lock

 

[dswalterwi]

How about a siren that goes off inside the car that's so loud that it will make the thieves ears bleed. I doubt they would stick around to diagnose turning it off.

Automatic door lock after they get in then produce a 20,000 Hz frequency at 120 db. That will give them brain damage.

 

[1sickveilsidez]

Mine just came in the mail, very quick install and works as shown in previous posts.

Thank you @Mud Rat for all the info and leg work on this.

 

[Mud Rat]

Mine just came in the mail, very quick install and works as shown in previous posts.

Thank you @Mud Rat for all the info and leg work on this.

I'm just glad y'all are finding it helpful. If we're unlucky enough to be targeted, maybe it will be successful in keeping a truck from being stolen.

 

[SCARd4Life]

I'm just glad y'all are finding it helpful. If we're unlucky enough to be targeted, maybe it will be successful in keeping a truck from being stolen.

This is what I love about forums like this. Getting my truck next week and already have this on order. What a great idea

 

[916Ghost]

This looks like a really good option with a painless install

 

[Claasicdrive]

I'm just glad y'all are finding it helpful. If we're unlucky enough to be targeted, maybe it will be successful in keeping a truck from being stolen.

doing what Tom did makes it completely undetectable. Better than Ravelco imo.

 

[Tom488]

doing what Tom did makes it completely undetectable. Better than Ravelco imo.

To use a classic line from another of my favorite forums...

"Get both!"

 

[Claasicdrive]

To use a classic line from another of my favorite forums...

"Get both!"

and a having to buy a purse to carry the car fob and the relay remote and the Ravelco cap...Nah..you guys can keep Chuck the installer and Ravelco.

 

[Mud Rat]

and a having to buy a purse to carry the car fob and the relay remote and the Ravelco cap...Nah..you guys can keep Chuck the installer and Ravelco.

You could get a fanny pack.

 

[Claasicdrive]

To use a classic line from another of my favorite forums...

"Get both!"

Is the mobilistic relay powered all the time "waiting " for the remote to connect to it? Can it drain the battery if the truck is parked for too long ?

 

[Tom488]

Is the mobilistic relay powered all the time "waiting " for the remote to connect to it? Can it drain the battery if the truck is parked for too long ?

Good question... so I dug out my DVM. The answer is, yes - if you replace starter relay #1, as the directions tell you to. This starter relay gets its feed straight from the battery, and as such, the Mobilistics relay is drawing current all the time. However, it's only drawing 33 or 34 mA (my meter couldn't make up its mind - so call it 34mA). With a typical reserve capacity of 60AH, that would take over 1700 hours to drain the battery. In a weeks time, it would pull 5.7AH out of the battery, or a little under 10%.

However, if you were concerned, you could replace starter relay #2 instead, as starter relay #2 is powered by starter relay #1 (see attached diagram). Starter relay #2 is directly above starter relay #1 in the PDC, looking it at from the side of the truck (#2 is closer to the engine than #1).

I confirmed that all functionality works with the Mobilistics relay in position #2, and thanks to you pointing this out, I'm going to leave it in the #2 position - I don't like extra parasitic draw either, no matter how minor.

I believe Mobilistics advises replacing relay #1, due to the added complication of remote start. With the relay in #1, you can remote start by EITHER pressing the Mobilistics transmitter, then activating remote start on your keyfob - or the other way around. Doesn't matter, because in position #1, the Mobilistics relay always has power.

BUT - with the Mobilistics relay in position #2, you HAVE to activate remote start FIRST, so relay #1 can power up the Mobilistics relay. Only then, AFTER giving the truck about a second or two, while it's silently TRYING to crank the engine, can you hit the Mobilistics transmitter to engage the smart relay, and start the truck. It's a timing thing, and if you goof it up, remote start will disable itself until you start the truck manually.

So take your pick - add 34mA to your ignition-off draw, and have convenient remote start, or eliminate the parasitic draw, while slightly complicating your remote start sequence. Life's full of choices, right?

(in the above diagram, fuse #40 is fed directly from the battery - and the output of relay #2 goes off to the left to the starter. The Mobilistics relay draws it's power to operate from pin 30)

 

[Hello4x]

Good question... so I dug out my DVM. The answer is, yes - if you replace starter relay #1, as the directions tell you to. This starter relay gets its feed straight from the battery, and as such, the Mobilistics relay is drawing current all the time. However, it's only drawing 33 or 34 mA (my meter couldn't make up its mind - so call it 34mA). With a typical reserve capacity of 60AH, that would take over 1700 hours to drain the battery. In a weeks time, it would pull 5.7AH out of the battery, or a little under 10%.

However, if you were concerned, you could replace starter relay #2 instead, as starter relay #2 is powered by starter relay #1 (see attached diagram). Starter relay #2 is directly above starter relay #1 in the PDC, looking it at from the side of the truck (#2 is closer to the engine than #1).

I confirmed that all functionality works with the Mobilistics relay in position #2, and thanks to you pointing this out, I'm going to leave it in the #2 position - I don't like extra parasitic draw either, no matter how minor.

I believe Mobilistics advises replacing relay #1, due to the added complication of remote start. With the relay in #1, you can remote start by EITHER pressing the Mobilistics transmitter, then activating remote start on your keyfob - or the other way around. Doesn't matter, because in position #1, the Mobilistics relay always has power.

BUT - with the Mobilistics relay in position #2, you HAVE to activate remote start FIRST, so relay #1 can power up the Mobilistics relay. Only then, AFTER giving the truck about a second or two, while it's silently TRYING to crank the engine, can you hit the Mobilistics transmitter to engage the smart relay, and start the truck. It's a timing thing, and if you goof it up, remote start will disable itself until you start the truck manually.

So take your pick - add 34mA to your ignition-off draw, and have convenient remote start, or eliminate the parasitic draw, while slightly complicating your remote start sequence. Life's full of choices, right?

View attachment 33359

(in the above diagram, fuse #40 is fed directly from the battery - and the output of relay #2 goes off to the left to the starter. The Mobilistics relay draws it's power to operate from pin 30)

Great work, Tom! Sorry in advance if I’m missing something.

If you move to relay #2, would your vehicle start sequence be (non-remote start): press run/start button in truck followed by Mobilistics button (would need to provide relay #2 power). If I’m following correctly sequence: Mobilistics fob disarm followed by run/start button wouldn’t work.

 

[Mud Rat]

I think I'm the one that started the whole relay #1 thing (K09 on the box cover). Remember I had to send Mobilistics a photograph of my box and show them which relay I wanted to replace. I had no idea why there were 2 starter relays, and just randomly picked one. So they're probably recommending relay #1 based on my information, which is a dangerous thing to do, as opposed to any analysis of our electrical system.

 

[nlflores]

I think I'm the one that started the whole relay #1 thing (K09 on the box cover). Remember I had to send Mobilistics a photograph of my box and show them which relay I wanted to replace. I had no idea why there were 2 starter relays, and just randomly picked one. So they're probably recommending relay #1 based on my information, which is a dangerous thing to do, as opposed to any analysis of our electrical system.

I planned to install mine according to your picture. Can you share a copy of your picture with relay #2 circled so we know where it is in relation to the one in the "official instructions"? Thanks.