Best replacement battery?

Definitely not cheaping out on tires or brakes, but will try this Wally battery when the time comes on my 2023. Any way to make sure I get a Germany made one?

Make sure it has the "Made in Germany" sticker on the top. @FULLTHROTTLERICK got one a couple of weeks ago.

 
Go buy in person if you can. Ordering online is a crapshoot. Not only for where the battery is manufactured, but how long ago too.

From what I’ve seen the Everstarts, Interstates and any other spinoff of these batteries all seem to have the same Germany sticker in the same place. If no sticker visible, assume Mexico.
 
I did not do that. Sorry, what's "DT Tazer"?

Today I went out to truck to try removing cables for a few and re-install to see if my warning lights went away. Truck now has zero power, same as if there were absolutely no battery. Dead. I tried the emergency re-start that the antigravity battery has and nothing. I'm so confused now. I have no idea if there's a draw but the antigravity should've started the truck if there was. It reminds me of my old Dodge when a fuse relay went out. Did I throw parts ($1400 battery) at a problem without fixing it?

I'm lost as to what to try next. Don't want to have to tow it! And don't want to go to dealership where it may sit and sit :(

I did discharge using a voltmeter because cables aren't long enough to touch each other.

What would you do next?

Thanks everyone!

Larry
Did you ever figure out what the issue was?
 
Yes, sorry I had a separate post going for this. Here it is, and all is still good. Thanks.

FINALLY got it to the dealership. I even got to speak to the mechanic who will be working on it, and it made me feel better because he was nice, articulate, and seemed to really know his business. He said this issue is not uncommon, but also said they "these trucks really don't have a lot of issues". They called a couple hours later and stated it was the transmission valve body and it would probably be 3 to four days. I received another call stating they were also replacing the alternator as "it is not charging at the proper level".
 
When are you all replacing your battery on your TRX? Is it after it dies? Or when it reads a certain voltage?

On all of my previous cars I've always waited until they died and just replaced in the lot without jumping usually.

I've seen a few horror stories on people that have tried to jump the TRX and get your after, and word continue after replacing battery. So I know I'll probably not jump the TRX unless it's an emergency.

As for my battery it will charge at 13.8v when I first start her and it'll at 12.8v. I honestly don't remember the voltages when I bought the truck.

Oh and I know I'll be the odd ball but I'll swear by Walmart and their batteries. I've been using them for over 25 years. On to of that even at the 3 year mark Walmart usually will replace the battery without questions. I had a Corvette go through 3 batteries in 9 years and I only bought 1 at the start of those 9 years, when I replaced my original dead battery.

On that same note, I love Costco but absolutely hate their battery policies. Parents had a battery from them for not even a year in and out was a pain to get replaced without arguing with a manager. Very sad since they will normally return about anything no matter when you purchased it. When I worked for Costco I would get people returning 10 year old things like vacuum cleaners and even TVs (electronic policy changed a few years back tho).
 
As for my battery it will charge at 13.8v when I first start her and it'll at 12.8v. I honestly don't remember the voltages when I bought the truck.
That's lower than I like to see in these temps. Then again, one of ours shows about the same voltages.

Either way, I'd think that's a charging issue, not a problem with the battery. Mine has higher voltages, but sometimes doesn't charge at all, except during deceleration.

Also, those batteries are two years older than yours and load test just fine.
 
Have a 21 Power Wagon so not apples to apples..said to my buddy last Sun..truck seems slower to start lately, think I need a batt...Yup...Mon AM..wont start...Got a die hard..guy said they're all from the same company exp for the higher end stuff..dunno...truck starts now tho
 
When are you all replacing your battery on your TRX? Is it after it dies? Or when it reads a certain voltage?

On all of my previous cars I've always waited until they died and just replaced in the lot without jumping usually.

I've seen a few horror stories on people that have tried to jump the TRX and get your after, and word continue after replacing battery. So I know I'll probably not jump the TRX unless it's an emergency.

As for my battery it will charge at 13.8v when I first start her and it'll at 12.8v. I honestly don't remember the voltages when I bought the truck.

Oh and I know I'll be the odd ball but I'll swear by Walmart and their batteries. I've been using them for over 25 years. On to of that even at the 3 year mark Walmart usually will replace the battery without questions. I had a Corvette go through 3 batteries in 9 years and I only bought 1 at the start of those 9 years, when I replaced my original dead battery.

On that same note, I love Costco but absolutely hate their battery policies. Parents had a battery from them for not even a year in and out was a pain to get replaced without arguing with a manager. Very sad since they will normally return about anything no matter when you purchased it. When I worked for Costco I would get people returning 10 year old things like vacuum cleaners and even TVs (electronic policy changed a few years back tho).
Just replaced my '22 with 72K on the ticker. For the last month and a half, it would have trouble starting after a few on/off short trips. No issues starting when at work or overnight. My last straw was going to the gas station after it being at the airport for 5 days and having to use a booster pack I carry to start it. Went Yellow Top.
 
Just replaced my '22 with 72K on the ticker. For the last month and a half, it would have trouble starting after a few on/off short trips. No issues starting when at work or overnight. My last straw was going to the gas station after it being at the airport for 5 days and having to use a booster pack I carry to start it. Went Yellow Top.
I'm only at 45k right now and luckily no issues starting however I rarely have any short trips. Most of my trips are 40+ minutes most of which is at 60+mph. The one exception is the last two weeks I was on vacation and had quite a few short trips and luckily I didn't notice anything.

I do need to get a new battery booster. I was hoping the one at Costco would go on sale but it hasn't.

Thank you for the help!
 
That's lower than I like to see in these temps. Then again, one of ours shows about the same voltages.

Either way, I'd think that's a charging issue, not a problem with the battery. Mine has higher voltages, but sometimes doesn't charge at all, except during deceleration.

Also, those batteries are two years older than yours and load test just fine.
Hmm. I am slightly worried with winter coming. The voltages I thought were good, but I guess not. I thought it was charging then once charged (about 15 minutes in) the voltage drops to near/at battery voltage of 12.8v l. I always thought the alternator just output enough to maintain the charge and power the truck after the battery is charged, and that's why it didn't stay at the higher voltage.

Now I just wonder if my alternator isn't much good lol.

Truck is going to the tire shop in 4 hours (now I haven't slept yet). When I get it back maybe I'll have AutoZone or someone do a battery test.

It is going to the dealer on Friday, for an alignment and recalibration if the sensors, but they will probably charge way too much for a battery and alternator check.

Thank you for the help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Two
I was just at two different Walmart stores looking for something else and decided to check out their H8 Platinum batteries. All of them were made in South Korea and had 850 CCA. They had manufacture dates of 10/25 and 11/25. It looks like @FULLTHROTTLERICK got the last of the German made batteries. That's a bummer for anyone looking for a quality battery from Walmart.
 
I was just at two different Walmart stores looking for something else and decided to check out their H8 Platinum batteries. All of them were made in South Korea and had 850 CCA. They had manufacture dates of 10/25 and 11/25. It looks like @FULLTHROTTLERICK got the last of the German made batteries. That's a bummer for anyone looking for a quality battery from Walmart.
Dang, sorry fellas! It's not installed yet so I'll start the opening bid at $500 😂
 
I was just at two different Walmart stores looking for something else and decided to check out their H8 Platinum batteries. All of them were made in South Korea and had 850 CCA. They had manufacture dates of 10/25 and 11/25. It looks like @FULLTHROTTLERICK got the last of the German made batteries. That's a bummer for anyone looking for a quality battery from Walmart.
what makes the South Korea battery worse than the German?
 
what makes the South Korea battery worse than the German?

I don't know if the batteries made in South Korea are lower quality than the German made batteries, but the specs on the South Korean batteries aren't as good. I noticed on the Walmart website that the in-store batteries are rated at 850CCA and the "BOXED" version, which can only be shipped, are rated at 900CCA. I believe the boxed version is the one @FULLTHROTTLERICK ordered.

This 11/10/2025 review supports my findings about the lower spec Korean batteries sold in the stores:

Screenshot 2025-11-12 094406.webp


Maybe @OnTheReel has some info on the quality of the batteries coming out of South Korea and Mexico.
 
I don't know if the batteries made in South Korea are lower quality than the German made batteries, but the specs on the South Korean batteries aren't as good. I noticed on the Walmart website that the in-store batteries are rated at 850CCA and the "BOXED" version, which can only be shipped, are rated at 900CCA. I believe the boxed version is the one @FULLTHROTTLERICK ordered.

This 11/10/2025 review supports my findings about the lower spec Korean batteries sold in the stores:

View attachment 153622

Maybe @OnTheReel has some info on the quality of the batteries coming out of South Korea and Mexico.
The Mexican Everstarts are the same 900 CCA as the German ones, both Clarios and indistinguishable aside from the sticker. Quality-wise I haven’t heard of any issues with the Mexican ones but I would still lean towards getting a German one if at all possible.

The South Korean version might be made by Hankook (AtlasBX). They do a lot of store brand batteries. I haven’t seen one in person but this manufacturer would make sense since the specs are different than the Clarios version.

Some of this variance comes down to region and I am sure German ones still exist somewhere in Walmarts system either boxed or in certain stores. I haven’t checked in awhile but wouldn’t be surprised if we have different batteries at my Walmart than what you saw at yours.
 
Okay, after a couple of months I have to admit there's something to be said for charging a TRX by not bypassing the battery sensor.

Mine now seems to charge perfectly (it didn't charge at all when driving) after connecting the solar panel's ground to the body instead of the battery, and the other one is also behaving better.

What's interesting to me is that the TRXs seem to be the only ones being picky about this. The Challengers, a Charger, and a Durango, don't seem to care one bit that they're being charged through the underhood connections, and maybe that's because the sensor is still involved.

But two Ram 3500s are just fine with being charged directly at the battery posts.

Anyway, the moral of the story is don't hook your charger directly to the negative battery post.
 
Okay, after a couple of months I have to admit there's something to be said for charging a TRX by not bypassing the battery sensor.

Mine now seems to charge perfectly (it didn't charge at all when driving) after connecting the solar panel's ground to the body instead of the battery, and the other one is also behaving better.

What's interesting to me is that the TRXs seem to be the only ones being picky about this. The Challengers, a Charger, and a Durango, don't seem to care one bit that they're being charged through the underhood connections, and maybe that's because the sensor is still involved.

But two Ram 3500s are just fine with being charged directly at the battery posts.

Anyway, the moral of the story is don't hook your charger directly to the negative battery post.
Interesting...
 
Hmm. I am slightly worried with winter coming. The voltages I thought were good, but I guess not. I thought it was charging then once charged (about 15 minutes in) the voltage drops to near/at battery voltage of 12.8v l. I always thought the alternator just output enough to maintain the charge and power the truck after the battery is charged, and that's why it didn't stay at the higher voltage.

Now I just wonder if my alternator isn't much good lol.

Truck is going to the tire shop in 4 hours (now I haven't slept yet). When I get it back maybe I'll have AutoZone or someone do a battery test.

It is going to the dealer on Friday, for an alignment and recalibration if the sensors, but they will probably charge way too much for a battery and alternator check.

Thank you for the help.
Just a FYI, I put my trickle charger on my TRX for 10 days while I went to the Virgin Islands, Before it read 13.2-8 volts, since I have been back, about 2 weeks, it read 14.3 ALL the time shortly after startup. The charger really does balance out the cells and I can't help but to think that it will make the battery last longer.
 

Latest Discussions...

RAM-TRX Vendors

justboltons.com BwoodyPerformance.com Granger Chrysler Jeep Dodge RAM OffRoadAlliance.com/ solisracinggroup.com Mark Dodge.com Forced Induction Interchillers RealTruck.com Ourisman Cars
Back
Top