TRX Aftermarket Wheel and Tire pics! [size/offset]

Thanks for again edifying me. And what size is that wheel if I can be so bold to inquire?

Same as stock, 18 x 9, but with 0 offset compared to the stock wheel which has a 19mm offset, so it sits 19mm further out.
 
Same as stock, 18 x 9, but with 0 offset compared to the stock wheel which has a 19mm offset, so it sits 19mm further out.
Can’t wait to to see your vision on these. Thanks
 
Here's little show and tell.

This is the back of the Fuel wheel with a 106.1 hub bore, which is the only one available for the wheel size I need.

F8374538-4-B28-49-E6-B6-C2-BA2-E18-D5-ACF8.jpg


However the hub bore for our trucks is a much narrower 77.8, so you need the ring to fill the gap, and the aluminum one looks like this:

4-CD90-E1-F-B84-C-4775-965-F-D68-CEC73-AA74.jpg


You just slide it into the wheel before putting them on and the wheel sits perfectly in the hub:

AD7-F21-CA-2-C57-48-A8-B868-A860232-E50-E1.jpg


By doing this all the load is transferred directly from the wheel to the hub. If you didn't do this all the load would be on the lugs holding the wheels in place in every direction.

Make sense?
Gotcha. 👍
In that case I would most definitely go with the aluminum over the plastic.
See how fast I become an expert? 🤫
 
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:)

Fuel (and other brand wheels) for some reason don't have them available with the RAM hub bore. The hub is smaller on the RAM so you need something to fill the space so the load is transferred properly. The rings do that, otherwise the truck will vibrate and other terrible things will happen. I'm sure with the popularity of the TRX they will in time make them with the correct bore, but until then you have to use rings instead. (y)
Hub-centric wheels have more to do with eliminating high speed vibrations than they do bearing the weight of the vehicle. The lugs still hold all of the weight, but the hub centric aspect helps insure the wheel is centered correctly. Fuel (and most other aftermarket wheels) create larger hub bores so that they can fit many applications without having to make a wheel to fit each one. Sometimes they include center bore spacers to fill the gap that might be created on different applications. You will be fine with the plastic hub bore spacer, but you certainly can't go wrong with an aluminum one. Once the wheel lugs are torqued down they are doing the vast majority of bearing the weight.
 
I have a question for wheel experts.

I'm going to have to use a hub centric ring, I can go plastic/composite or the aluminum ones I ordered.

My sense is since the truck is going to do hard off-road duty the aluminum is better for durability, but the wheels are steel but not stainless, I assume so is the hub, so I'm wondering if an aluminum oreo between steel is going to cause any corrosion issues.

Any thoughts on this?
The Fuel Shok wheel is aluminum, not steel. You shouldn't have any corrosion issues, but it's not unheard of for aluminum spacers to get logged inside the wheel or on the hub of the truck.
 
It shouldn't since I managed to fit 20x9 Fuels with the same offset and a 37x13.50 Toyo MT.
Ya I misread. Thought he was going 0mm offset. So was curious on rubbing with 37x1250
 
Fuel Zephyr 20x9, +20 offset
37x13.50r20 Toyo MT
No rubbing.
Hey CP, does the front wheels stick out further than the rear? In other words are they more flush with the fenders?
 
Had my wheels off today for various reasons.

Anyone now what this blue plastic thing is wedged in my caliper?
It's only one of the four.

4620-E48-F-CCFB-4-B00-AB3-B-18-F4-CBEF2-D52.jpg
 
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Hopefully not someone’s sandwich wrapper from the factory

It actually looks like some sort of protecting film, probably for shipping, that should have been removed during PDI. I'll stop by the dealer mañana to have them remove it, hopefully it didn't cause any damage. But I'm still curious as to what it is.
 
It actually looks like some sort of protecting film, probably for shipping, that should have been removed during PDI. I'll stop by the dealer mañana to have them remove it, hopefully it didn't cause any damage. But I'm still curious as to what it is.
Wrapper for the brake pad? Surely not... how do you not completely remove that before installing the pads in the caliper?
 
Hey CP, does the front wheels stick out further than the rear? In other words are they more flush with the fenders?
The offset of that set up is actually 1mm further inboard than stock, but with the added sidewall bulge of the Toyo MT they fill out the wheel wells a bit better. In terms of front to back "poke" it will be the same ratio as stock. This pic will be similar since these wheels are +18 offset and the red Zephyrs are +20. These wheels stick out 2mm more than the Zephyr.
 

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37x13.50r20 Nitto Tires
20 inch Covert Fuel Rims with a 20 offset
 

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Here's little show and tell.

This is the back of the Fuel wheel with a 106.1 hub bore, which is the only one available for the wheel size I need.

F8374538-4-B28-49-E6-B6-C2-BA2-E18-D5-ACF8.jpg


However the hub bore for our trucks is a much narrower 77.8, so you need the ring to fill the gap, and the aluminum one looks like this:

4-CD90-E1-F-B84-C-4775-965-F-D68-CEC73-AA74.jpg


You just slide it into the wheel before putting them on and the wheel sits perfectly in the hub:

AD7-F21-CA-2-C57-48-A8-B868-A860232-E50-E1.jpg


By doing this all the load is transferred directly from the wheel to the hub. If you didn't do this all the load would be on the lugs holding the wheels in place in every direction.

Make sense?
They do that with the Center bore so they can fit more applications. The rings are needed.
 
Anyone see streetspeed's 2nd TRX wheel/tire combo? Seems similar to Customperformance's, but maybe more offset?
Would like: 37x13.5, 20x10, -18 - Think it will rub like crazy though, just love that wider wheel.
We know works: 37x13.5, 20x9, +20
SS Setup?: 37x12.5, 20x9, +1 or +20?
May have to settle if it will it work with : 37x13.5, 20x9, +1
 

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