TRX Aftermarket Wheel and Tire pics! [size/offset]

The center of the tire doesn’t move in or out, it stays in the same spot. Going from 9” wide wheel to 10” wide, same offset, would “let out” the tire some- perhaps about .4” (10mm) so only 5mm “wider” each side for the tire. Was this what you were getting at?
Essentially yes, if the offset remains the same and all you are doing is increasing the width of the wheel, the inner and outer location of the wheel edge/lip will increase the same amount.

Going from a 9" wide, -12 offset to a 10" wide, -12 offset will cause the outer lip of the wheel to stick out 1/2" (13mm) more, and the inner lip to come in 1/2" (13mm) closer to the strut/shock.

That remains true regardless of the width change. Going up a to 12" wide wheel from a 9" wide wheel will increase the poke by 1.5" and the inner clearance from the strut/shock will be 1.5" less.
 
I will be able to answer this question late next week. I’ll let you know as
I just picked her up. I ended up going with 20” KMC 549’s with zero offset. Geiser springs Front and back. The -18 offset kept the wheels inside the wells too much. Only drive it to works so far. It is definitely a little stiffer but not too stiff. Kept the Porsche in photo so you can see the. Height.
 

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The 20x10 Vossen HF6-4's are a -18 offset. Apologies if I missed it, but does anyone have these on 35's? Trying to figure out if these would rub.
 
I didn’t mind the black factory rims, but I’m loving these Ledge 6’s as they go onto the truck. The 20” rim fits the wheel well nicely.
 

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There are several calculators online that do the math for you if you want to look at options.

Question for you on this, while yes there are calculators, those will ultimately only tell us how much the wheel/tire is moving outward/inward correct? Do we know if there's any resource that is vehicle specific and can take all variables into consideration to determine rubbing and/or lift requirements or better yet, lift and alignment requirements to prevent rubbing? I realize there are many variables, but it seems like this is doable if you have the wheel specs, tire specs, vehicle specs and alignment specs?

If not, seems like this could be a valuable resource for literally all trucks.....this topic is beat to death on the forums (29 pages and counting here) I visit and I've never seen a definitive answer beyond trial and error from users who eventually determine what setups don't rub. That's the only way I made sure my Tacoma's lift wouldn't rub.

Best calculator I could find: https://www.customwheeloffset.com/tire-wheel-backspacing-offset-calculators

Also found this video helpful for those of us who are visual learners:

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That's a very dead horse there...:ROFLMAO:

I have yet to see a calculator that shows "what hits, what fits" but there have always been places that show what works in general. A lot wheel/tire websites show what typically works, but there are too many vehicles out there and too many variables between trim lines for a calculator in my opinion. Luckily with enthusiast trucks there is almost always a forum like this one that dive into this kind of thing. You just have to do some digging!

I use that 1010tire calculator as well. Very simple and tells me what I need to know!
 
This website usually helps people who have a hard time with offsets it also gives you a visual of before and after.
 
This website usually helps people who have a hard time with offsets it also gives you a visual of before and after.
That's pretty cool it gives you the visual.
 
Guys with non OEM 35's - did you do any performance testing pre/post to determine what performance loss (if any) came with going to heavier 35's, being as the GY's are the lightest on the market? I'm going to make some of the weight up with lighter wheels but I'll still gain roughly 5lbs per wheel/tire - but as is with the current amount of power I am putting to the ground, more traction is needed than the GY's can offer. If I can get more grip in the launch, I'd like to think I'll more than make up for the weight, but it's all just a guessing game. Looking at Recon Grapplers specifically.
 
Guys with non OEM 35's - did you do any performance testing pre/post to determine what performance loss (if any) came with going to heavier 35's, being as the GY's are the lightest on the market?
There should be no need for testing, really. Performance will suffer with more rotating mass, it's only a matter of how much.
 
There should be no need for testing, really. Performance will suffer with more rotating mass, it's only a matter of how much.
Part of me wants to just say fuck it and go 37's, speed be damned.
 

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