Not sure as 1221 Wheels did a custom setup on my TRX. I told them I wanted a 1/2” poke. I believe they’re 10 or 10.5” wide.
How much was the break kit
~$6k
Still working out kinks & also upgrading to Stage 2 FI Interchiller kit & adding a reservoir. Front driveshaft was pulled. They seemed to make a big difference the little bit I did drive it, but aesthetically 100% worth it imo.
| Exterior | $ 11,320.40 | |
| ADD Bomber Front Bumper (Rigid) | $ 2,449.97 | |
| 4x Rigid 360 Series 6" White Driving Round Light (Red Backlight) | $ 1,239.98 | |
| 2 x Rigid Radiance Pods (Red Backlight) | $ 169.99 | |
| ADD Bomber Rear Bumper | $ 1,679.97 | |
| 2 x Rigid D-Series PRO White Flood | $ 188.99 | |
| Mopar Power Running Boards | $ 1,417.50 | |
| PowertraxPro XR | $ 2,699.00 | |
| RetroShop.US Retrofitted Headlights (Diode Dyanmics RGBW Demon Eyes & DRLs, Etched Lenses, Blacked Reflector) | $ 1,475.00 | |
| Interior | $ 7,831.74 | |
| MTI Stage 3 Underseat Enclosure | $ 1,709.00 | |
| (2) JL Audio 13TW5 Subwoofers | $ 1,559.90 | |
| (1) JL Audio RD1500/1 Class D Monoblock Amplifier | $ 699.95 | |
| (1) AudioFrog GB60 6" Midrange Speakers (Pair) | $ 799.00 | |
| (1) AudioFrog GB25 2.5" Midrange Speakers (Pair) | $ 399.00 | |
| (1) AudioFrog GB15 1.5" Tweeters (Pair) | $ 399.00 | |
| (1) AudiFrog GS62 2-Way Coaxial Speakers (Pair) | $ 299.00 | |
| (1) Helix V Eight MK2 8 Channel DSP Amplifier | $ 1,299.00 | |
| Soundshield Sound Dampening & Speaker Ring Kits | $ 289.98 | |
| Paragoptics Ambient Lighting Upgrade | $ 377.91 | |
| Performance | $ 19,796.19 | |
| Dusterhoff Tuning Stage 4 TRX Power Package | $ 3,049.99 | |
| 1200cc FIC Injectors | $ - | |
| 180 T-Stat | $ - | |
| PCM Unlock Service | $ - | |
| Smart Access Cable | $ - | |
| Belt | $ - | |
| Dual BAP | $ - | |
| Engine & Trans Tuning | $ - | |
| Brisk Racing ER14S Spark Plugs | $ 89.95 | |
| Nick Williams 108mm TB | $ 750.00 | |
| Cam Kit (Custom Gridn Cam, Springs, Retainer, Shims, Phaser Limiter) Lope Profile 1 | $ 1,800.00 | |
| HP Tuners MPVI-2 | $ 299.99 | |
| HP Tuners MPVI-2 Credits | $ 299.94 | |
| Dusterhoff Tuning | $ 450.00 | |
| Litens Quick Change Shaft | $ 175.00 | |
| Litens 2.71 Decoupling Pulley | $ 629.95 | |
| Jokerz Performance Race Blower Port Package | $ 2,900.00 | |
| CnC Ported Bearing Plate | $ - | |
| CnC Ported Snout | $ - | |
| Matte Black Cerakoted Lid | $ - | |
| Matte Black Cerakoted Lower Blower/Snout | $ - | |
| Race Rebuild w/Upgraded Ceramic Bearings | $ - | |
| PWR IHI Upgraded Coolant Bricks | $ 1,799.00 | |
| TBA Machine Custom Supercharger ID Plate (Anodized Black w/Laser Engraving) | $ 75.00 | |
| ATI Super Damper Stock OD Overdrive Pulley | $ 505.00 | |
| Crank Pin Kit | $ 99.95 | |
| FI Interchiller Stage 2 | $ 2,600.00 | |
| FI Interchiller 1" Spacer & Thermal Blanket | $ 621.78 | |
| Pierburg CWA400 Coolant Pump ( Inlet/Outlet -16AN) | $ 552.64 | |
| Stainless Works 1-7/8" x 3" Long Tube Headers w/High-Flow Cats | $ 2,090.00 | |
| JLT 3.0 Oil Separator | $ 159.00 | |
| JMB Air Intake | $ 849.00 | |
| Suspension | $ 3,288.47 | |
| Foutz Motosports Front Leveling Kit | $ 424.98 | |
| Foutz Motosports 1" Rear Spring Spacer Kit & Bumpstop Kit | $ 1,839.97 | |
| Foutz Motorsports Adjustable Panhard Bar Kit (Johnny Joints) | $ 499.99 | |
| Hellwig Rear Swaybar Kit | $ 320.53 | |
| BWoody TRX Front Swaybar Links | $ 203.00 | |
| Wheels & Tires | $ 14,525.00 | |
| 1221 Wheels 0660 AP2 Sport 20x10 | $ 7,040.00 | |
| BFG KO2 325/60R20 | $ 1,700.00 | |
| Rotora Stainless Steel Brake Lines | $ 299.00 | |
| R1 Concepts Big Brake Kit (8 Piston/405mm Front - 6 Piston/380mm Rear) | $ 5,486.00 | |
| Total | $ 56,761.80 |
Big list.
I’m not worried about tracking it or anything. It’s just a pavement queen commuter that I wanted to do a bunch of crap to to make it look cool & essentially say it’s got 1000hp. The person that owns it after me will have a lot of fun with it though I bet.
I really want their beadlock ventura setup on my truck. That’d look sick & def improve performance.
Most importantly, keep all of your receipts lol. Thankfully my installer / tuner sends me PDF quotes and I keep all of that stuff together. When you go to sell it someday, especially if it's directly to a buyer and not the dealership, all that stuff matters. Parts, install dates, warranties, and of course all the service records. I doubt CarMax will want a 1000 horsepower heavily modified truck but there's definitely a market out there for everything.
If it's a 9" wide wheel you should be able to run -12 with the potential for slight rubbing. Might, might not. If it does, it will likely be very minor, and could be prevented with a little trimming. The +18 would not require any trimming, but a cast 18" wheel with +18 offset may not clear the brake calipers.
Much appreciated man. I’m keeping the 1221’s as my daily wheels, I’d only use the welds as a track setup with some sticky Mickey’s on them.
Yeah, I keep all of my records just for my records when I sell it. It’ll most likely be a private sale, as parting out something with all this crap is a nightmare & it’s just easier selling it as-is in working condition, rather than risking running into issues trying to get a few thousand more by parting it out. Also, I kinda like keeping my builds together… pride perhaps? lol
I will be able to answer this question late next week. I’ll let you know as soon.
I’m curious, why do you specify the 9” width?
That's factory width, if you change the width you have to factor that in with the backspacing/offset.
Because as the width changes the outer and inner parts of the wheel sit in different locations. Not sure if that is the clearest way to explain it, but a 10" wide wheel with a -12 offset will stick out farther (13mm) and come in farther (13mm) than the 9" wide wheel with the same offset. That extra 13mm outward would end up putting the tire more into the fenders when turning full lock.
Same. Too far gone to part it out anyway. It's one thing if you had like...catback and an intake. But when you have a laundry list of 30 mods...hell no. Obviously you limit your pool of people, but those interested would have a purpose for it. When I sell mine I'll basically list at as Hennessey killer for less money and more reliability.
The center of the tire doesn’t move in or out, it stays in the same spot. Going from 9” wide wheel to 10” wide, same offset, would “let out” the tire some- perhaps about .4” (10mm) so only 5mm “wider” each side for the tire. Was this what you were getting at?
