Cons of Interchiller - In humid environments

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

I believe the 3 way bypass question he was asking is what does it do. Which, I provided him with what I understand it to be as far as functionality. If he wants to retain the use of his heat exchanger, and use a interchiller, he can chose to go from interchiller to heat exchanger, and vice versa. Basically, if he isn’t doing any hard driving, he can use the heat exchanger during his drive. If he wants more performance, he can switch to the interchiller, which will give him very cold IC temps, making his TRX performance better by provided real rwhp that he will be able to feel as well as helping the pcm from pulling timing. However, 99% of people simply bypass the heat exchanger permanently, and chose not to use a 3 way bypass valve/solenoid.

If I did opt for the three-way bypass kit, what is the process from switching between chiller and heat exchanger? Is it as simple as using an aux switch or is it more involved?

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I agree that him living in Florida shouldn’t be a problem, but he asked about hard start ups, so I just gave him some basic information in general, if he were living in a colder environment. That question is often asked throughout forums. As for the AC off during starts, I’m in California, and I have found it helps me during start ups to have the AC off during my start ups. However, as stated previously, some people will agree or disagree with my suggestions and advice. To each their own. I’m not looking to debate or start an argument with anyone. The purpose of “forums” is to get advice from multiple people, and let the person asking the question(s) make up their own decision(s) based on the feedback he or she receives.

It’s not a debate and some of the information is factually based versus opinions. We have two forum members in Florida (including one I have worked to helped give personal tuning advice to) who have both experienced the same hard start issue that is specifically worst in HOT and HUMID climates. It’s not a debate-able topic as you can jump on any forum or talk to the owners of any of the chiller companies or talk to tuners who have to adjust the fueling tables on startup to try and run extra rich to get rid of the water in the cylinders and they will all say the same…it’s basic physics.

So again, here you say Florida should not be a problem and specially it is the problem. I’m sure you are trying to help and maybe sharing anecdotal pieces of experience from your specific setup and environment. But your recommendations have been incorrect and so I jumped in. If they were accurate I would have kept my mouth shut.

The reason that AC of on startup might help you is because you had to turn the AC off before you shut the vehicle down. The hard start issue is very specifically due to water in the cylinders. If you can explain the physics of how AC on during startup causes water in the cylinders from a physics perspective then I’m all ears.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I believe the 3 way bypass question he was asking is what does it do. Which, I provided him with what I understand it to be as far as functionality. If he wants to retain the use of his heat exchanger, and use a interchiller, he can chose to go from interchiller to heat exchanger, and vice versa. Basically, if he isn’t doing any hard driving, he can use the heat exchanger during his drive. If he wants more performance, he can switch to the interchiller, which will give him very cold IC temps, making his TRX performance better by provided real rwhp that he will be able to feel as well as helping the pcm from pulling timing. However, 99% of people simply bypass the heat exchanger permanently, and chose not to use a 3 way bypass valve/solenoid.

The actual performance reason for the bypass valve is for long pulls or road racing applications. If you don’t have an expansion tank then having the bypass switch over during a run helps with heat soak.

I’ll give credit where it is due… post 86 on this thread has a decent explanation. Don’t think I would word it any better.

Killer Chiller

Has anybody tried the Killer Chiller from Kincaid Performance? The Mustang guys seem to really like it. Claim 40 to 50 HP thru cooler intake temps and less timing retard. Now making a Hellcat kit.

www.hellcat.org

 

[AZDinoPwr]

If I did opt for the three-way bypass kit, what is the process from switching between chiller and heat exchanger? Is it as simple as using an aux switch or is it more involved?

Yes you can use an aux switch.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

So is your main concern with running a chiller in high humidity environments having a hard time starting on occasion or causing actual damage (long term or what have you) with condensation dripping into cylinder(s)? I think I could get into a regular habit of clearing the bricks via some WOT runs before shutdown but there would definitely be times that i wouldnt have that opportunity. I also wear a suit many days so having to shut off the AC, do a few WOT pulls, and arrive at the office/court/etc with no AC running could be problematic for sure lol.

I have seen water sprayed into a cylinder and it actually does some effective cleaning on DI vehicles, for example. Stupidly wondering if maybe there could be some positive effects of having a little drippage lol

Given your application and environment I would not recommend the chiller.

 

[WOHT]

If I did opt for the three-way bypass kit, what is the process from switching between chiller and heat exchanger? Is it as simple as using an aux switch or is it more involved?

I believe it’s just a matter of flipping a toggle switch which would close the fluid going through your interchiller and direct it to flow through your heat exchanger. Keep in mind, the majority of people that buy an interchiller opt out of the heat exchanger bypass valve, and rely solely on their ac system. But, maybe someone else can chime in to confirm this info, or provide another explanation to your question.

 

[scantone]

I wouldn't not use one in Florida, LOL even with the starting issue, it's no big deal to hit the button again. You'll get some funny looks when it fires up, and it's like you have a massive cam for a few seconds while it clears out. My intercooler fluid before the mods was over 140 degrees. With the 20lb wheel, it stays around 60 degrees in this heat. I couldn't imagine what the temp would be with the extra boost now.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I wouldn't not use one in Florida, LOL even with the starting issue, it's no big deal to hit the button again. You'll get some funny looks when it fires up, and it's like you have a massive cam for a few seconds while it clears out. My intercooler fluid before the mods was over 140 degrees. With the 20lb wheel, it stays around 60 degrees in this heat. I couldn't imagine what the temp would be with the extra boost now.

To each their own then. At least one forum member has pulled their chiller off in Florida because they use the remote start often and got tired of having to hit it, check on it, do it again, etc. I guess the better question is what is it worth to you? I believe the OP is stock so I don’t see the trade off being worth it. On a heavily modded setup with 20 psi then the answer might be different because you are trying to extract power from your other mods.

 

[scantone]

To each their own then. At least one forum member has pulled their chiller off in Florida because they use the remote start often and got tired of having to hit it, check on it, do it again, etc. I guess the better question is what is it worth to you? I believe the OP is stock so I don’t see the trade off being worth it. On a heavily modded setup with 20 psi then the answer might be different because you are trying to extract power from your other mods.

True stock probably not going to be worth it. Unless your trucks constantly pulling power due to air temps and it noticeable

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

To each their own then. At least one forum member has pulled their chiller off in Florida because they use the remote start often and got tired of having to hit it, check on it, do it again, etc. I guess the better question is what is it worth to you? I believe the OP is stock so I don’t see the trade off being worth it. On a heavily modded setup with 20 psi then the answer might be different because you are trying to extract power from your other mods.

I am essentially stock (predator/S&B) but it really sucks when you put the hammer down at speeds that you know kick like a mule from past pulls and u can feel the truck almost hesitating (presumably pulling timing) bc IATs are 140+.

I’ve had a few clowns try me and when I put the pedal down it just wasn’t there. Completely underwhelming. The only thing consistent is ambient temps were always 80-100 deg.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

True stock probably not going to be worth it. Unless your trucks constantly pulling power due to air temps and it noticeable

This is exactly the problem I’m running into daily. By the time my oil temp reaches 180+, my IATs are so high that timing is definitely getting pulled.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I am essentially stock (predator/S&B) but it really sucks when you put the hammer down at speeds you know kick like a mule from past pulls and u can feel the truck almost hesitating (presumably pulling timing) bc IATs are 140+.

I’ve had a few clowns try me and when I put the pedal down it just wasn’t there. Completely underwhelming. The only thing consistent is ambient temps were always 80-100 deg.

It will help in those scenarios. It’s just a matter of whether those few instances are worth it to you to have to go through a process on basically most shut downs.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

It will help in those scenarios. It’s just a matter of whether those few instances are worth it to you to have to go through a process on basically most shut downs.

If i didnt go through the process on shut downs, am i only getting the inconvenience of a hesitant start-up or am i also doing damage (longterm or otherwise) by allowing water to enter the cylinders?

Also, can you explain the 3-way bypass a bit better? I'm still struggling to understand the utility of the kit.

 

[scantone]

If i didnt go through the process on shut downs, am i only getting the inconvenience of a hesitant start-up or am i also doing damage (longterm or otherwise) by allowing water to enter the cylinders?

Also, can you explain the 3-way bypass a bit better? I'm still struggling to understand the utility of the kit.

I've had it on for a year and have never done any type of shut down. I just drive it like normal.

 

[JKMTRX]

I am essentially stock (predator/S&B) but it really sucks when you put the hammer down at speeds that you know kick like a mule from past pulls and u can feel the truck almost hesitating (presumably pulling timing) bc IATs are 140+.

I’ve had a few clowns try me and when I put the pedal down it just wasn’t there. Completely underwhelming. The only thing consistent is ambient temps were always 80-100 deg.

Truck def pulls timing with AIT 140. It will get there in no time in stop and go traffic in Fort Lauderdale. I am planning on going full E85 which will help and utilize my 180 deg thermostat. Pretty sure i am going to start with that and see how it goes. I love the idea of the interchiller, glad to see this post alive again with cons of high temp humid environments though!

 

[JKMTRX]

Oh one more thing, i have noticed in sport and ac cranked truck will run fans keeping coolant at 185. I've noticed AIT and IC temps also a lot lower. If i run not on sport fans turn off and coolant temps get to 215 before fan turns on goes back to 185 pretty quick, but truck is already heat soaked and getting AIT down takes awhile.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Oh one more thing, i have noticed in sport and ac cranked truck will run fans keeping coolant at 185. I've noticed AIT and IC temps also a lot lower. If i run not on sport fans turn off and coolant temps get to 215 before fan turns on goes back to 185 pretty quick, but truck is already heat soaked and getting AIT down takes awhile.

So FTL is actually where I’m from originally and lived the first 25 years of my life. Similar heat up here in Jax.

To your point, however, I run my truck in custom mode (with sport trans) all the time and my temps are always hot. They probably run a little bit hotter than auto mode just because the truck stays at a higher rpm. Maybe ill try true sport and see if anything changes.

 

[WOHT]

If i didnt go through the process on shut downs, am i only getting the inconvenience of a hesitant start-up or am i also doing damage (longterm or otherwise) by allowing water to enter the cylinders?

Also, can you explain the 3-way bypass a bit better? I'm still struggling to understand the utility of the kit.

Imagine the letter “h” in lower case. You have 2 lines at the bottom, and 1 at the top. With a 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, add the 1 to the 2, which gives you 3, hence the words, “3 way bypass”. Now, if you are running a heat exchanger along with an interchiller, only one of them can receive coolant going through your supercharger at a time So, let’s say the left side of the letter “h” is going directly to your interchiller coolant lines, which utilizes your vehicle’s AC system. It’s basically a straight shot from the output of your supercharger’s coolant line to the interchiller. Now, let’s say you do not want to use the interchiller, and want to use your heat exchanger to cool down your coolant from your supercharger. If you buy the 3 way bypass, you will receive a toggle switch (on/off), and possibly a relay already wired up to go to your battery. With the 3 way bypass connected to your vehicle’s positive battery terminal, and the negative wire grounded appropriately (follow the instructions provided with the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid), and connected to your toggle switch located wherever you decide to install it inside your cabin, the valve can be a positive charge or negative charge depending on the valve/solenoid. Stay with me here. So, everything wired correctly to provide power to the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, we will use the toggle switch’s “On” position for the fluid to go directly to your interchiller. Now, the toggle switch’s “Off” will deactivate the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, which then closes the interchiller coolant line and sends the coolant through your heat exchanger only. The word “bypass” means exactly that. Depending on the position of your toggle switch, the internal valve/solenoid will block off 1 of the 2 flowing direction from the letter “h”. If you have an additional coolant tank installed for use with the interchiller, you’ll want the outlet coolant line from your supercharger to go through the coolant tank before it reaches the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Imagine the letter “h” in lower case. You have 2 lines at the bottom, and 1 at the top. With a 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, add the 1 to the 2, which gives you 3, hence the words, “3 way bypass”. Now, if you are running a heat exchanger along with an interchiller, only one of them can receive coolant going through your supercharger at a time So, let’s say the left side of the letter “h” is going directly to your interchiller coolant lines, which utilizes your vehicle’s AC system. It’s basically a straight shot from the output of your supercharger’s coolant line to the interchiller. Now, let’s say you do not want to use the interchiller, and want to use your heat exchanger to cool down your coolant from your supercharger. If you buy the 3 way bypass, you will receive a toggle switch (on/off), and possibly a relay already wired up to go to your battery. With the 3 way bypass connected to your vehicle’s positive battery terminal, and the negative wire grounded appropriately (follow the instructions provided with the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid), and connected to your toggle switch located wherever you decide to install it inside your cabin, the valve can be a positive charge or negative charge depending on the valve/solenoid. Stay with me here. So, everything wired correctly to provide power to the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, we will use the toggle switch’s “On” position for the fluid to go directly to your interchiller. Now, the toggle switch’s “Off” will deactivate the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, which then closes the interchiller coolant line and sends the coolant through your heat exchanger only. The word “bypass” means exactly that. Depending on the position of your toggle switch, the internal valve/solenoid will block off 1 of the 2 flowing direction from the letter “h”. If you have an additional coolant tank installed for use with the interchiller, you’ll want the outlet coolant line from your supercharger to go through the coolant tank before it reaches the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid.

Great explanation. The only thing I would add is the purpose. The chiller is cooling anytime the AC compressor is on which also means it is off whenever you are WOT. An automatically switching bypass valve (or manually at the start of a run or and long duration event) allows you to keep using the stock heat exchanger while the AC compressor is off. Optimally you would run an expansion tank, run the chiller for awhile before the run to cool the fluid, then switch to normal heat exchanger once the temps rise above ambient.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Imagine the letter “h” in lower case. You have 2 lines at the bottom, and 1 at the top. With a 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, add the 1 to the 2, which gives you 3, hence the words, “3 way bypass”. Now, if you are running a heat exchanger along with an interchiller, only one of them can receive coolant going through your supercharger at a time So, let’s say the left side of the letter “h” is going directly to your interchiller coolant lines, which utilizes your vehicle’s AC system. It’s basically a straight shot from the output of your supercharger’s coolant line to the interchiller. Now, let’s say you do not want to use the interchiller, and want to use your heat exchanger to cool down your coolant from your supercharger. If you buy the 3 way bypass, you will receive a toggle switch (on/off), and possibly a relay already wired up to go to your battery. With the 3 way bypass connected to your vehicle’s positive battery terminal, and the negative wire grounded appropriately (follow the instructions provided with the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid), and connected to your toggle switch located wherever you decide to install it inside your cabin, the valve can be a positive charge or negative charge depending on the valve/solenoid. Stay with me here. So, everything wired correctly to provide power to the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, we will use the toggle switch’s “On” position for the fluid to go directly to your interchiller. Now, the toggle switch’s “Off” will deactivate the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid, which then closes the interchiller coolant line and sends the coolant through your heat exchanger only. The word “bypass” means exactly that. Depending on the position of your toggle switch, the internal valve/solenoid will block off 1 of the 2 flowing direction from the letter “h”. If you have an additional coolant tank installed for use with the interchiller, you’ll want the outlet coolant line from your supercharger to go through the coolant tank before it reaches the 3 way bypass valve/solenoid.

Fantastic explanation man, thank you!

Per IC chiller's site it doesnt seem like a complete kit: "Coolant side is not part of PnP kit and requires basic understanding of plumbing and flow diagrams. Also, It would require hose, clamps and fittings to complete the install." Not sure i want to reinvent the wheel in that department so would probably opt out of the 3-way bypass and just run chiller or nothing all the time. Plus the idea of another solenoid to go bad doesnt rev my engine.

**Can anyone tell me if the condensation drip into the cylinders is something that can /will cause long term detrimental effects of any kind?