Cons of Interchiller - In humid environments

[WOHT]

As long as your IC temps are above 32F, you should be fine leaving the interchiller on the entire drive, even at the point of turning off your engine. In my opinion, it’s always better to run the interchiller because it keeps your engine’s pcm from pulling timing, and it’s healthier for your engine to help prevent misfires. As for the humidity, interchillers from my experience work well (much better than any heat exchanger), just not quite as good with little or no humidity. There is a pretty huge difference in RWHP with an interchiller due to the much colder IC temps than a heat exchanger.!Condensation depends on a couple factors. If you insulate your coolant tank, and your ac suction line, you really shouldn’t have too much condensation, or any. Besides, condensation only really matters on a drag strip. Condensation will get you banded from a drag strip, but most will give you one warning so that you can correct the issue, ie. Insulate your tank and ac suction line, along with any other potential areas within your interchiller system. Just my 2 cents on your questions. I’m sure other members will either disagree or have other opinions. This is why these forums on helpful to get other opinions, and allow you to make the best decision(s) for your driving habits and climate you live in.

 

[WOHT]

The concern is condensation on the intercooler bricks within the supercharger causing rough startups.

If your in a cold environment, then yes, you would want to turn off your interchiller about ten minutes before turning off your engine, or boosted the engine for a quick sprint to get the IC temp up some. As for your IC brink(s), if you’ve insulated it, then it shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

If your in a cold environment, then yes, you would want to turn off your interchiller about ten minutes before turning off your engine, or boosted the engine for a quick sprint to get the IC temp up some. As for your IC brink(s), if you’ve insulated it, then it shouldn’t be a problem.

How do you turn off your interchiller? All im seeing is 2 modes: 1) chiller & cabin or 2) chiller only.

 

[WOHT]

How do you turn off your interchiller? All im seeing is 2 modes: 1) chiller & cabin or 2) chiller only.

Leave it in cabin/chiller mode which will run higher IC temps. Also, with potentially hard starts, make sure your A/C system is turned off for the first few minutes, and you should notice a considerable difference in the start up.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

3. Also, what is the 3-way bypass that IC Chillers sells as an upgrade for $200?

4. And any issues with an interchiller and offroading? When we rock crawl at slow speeds i have had the AC overflow drip onto the exhaust for hours until i shut off the AC for a bit. Wondering whether the interchiller would be a problem for slow speed rock crawling in high ambient temps?

 

[WOHT]

3. Also, what is the 3-way bypass that IC Chillers sells as an upgrade for $200?

4. And any issues with an interchiller and offroading? When we rock crawl at slow speeds i have had the AC overflow drip onto the exhaust for hours until i shut off the AC for a bit. Wondering whether the interchiller would be a problem for slow speed rock crawling in high ambient temps?

The IC Chillers 3 way bypass is an option that allows you to switch from interchiller to your heat exchanger only. It basically gives you the option to keep your stock heat exchanger in place and run your TRX without the interchiller. Of course your IC temps are going to be much higher in this mode. As far as the slow rock climbing, slow speed, condensation, I can’t really give you any opinions about it. Maybe someone who does slow rock climbing with and interchiller can chime in to answer your question.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

The IC Chillers 3 way bypass is an option that allows you to switch from interchiller to your heat exchanger only. It basically gives you the option to keep your stock heat exchanger in place and run your TRX without the interchiller. Of course your IC temps are going to be much higher in this mode. As far as the slow rock climbing, slow speed, condensation, I can’t really give you any opinions about it. Maybe someone who does slow rock climbing with and interchiller can chime in to answer your question.

If i dont get the 3-way bypass, do i have to take out my stock heat exchanger? I'm trying to keep it as close to OEM as possible so would prefer to keep OEM heat exchanger where it sits if possible. I understand I can get more performance by removing h/e and upgrading water pump etc etc but im not tracking my truck. Just want it to have full power to scare the kids no matter what ambient temp is outside lol

 

[WOHT]

If i dont get the 3-way bypass, do i have to take out my stock heat exchanger? I'm trying to keep it as close to OEM as possible so would prefer to keep OEM heat exchanger where it sits if possible. I understand I can get more performance by removing h/e and upgrading water pump etc etc but im not tracking my truck. Just want it to have full power to scare the kids no matter what ambient temp is outside lol

No, you can leave your stock heat exchanger in place. No need to remove it for your situation. You would simply bypass the stock heat exchanger if you are going to just go with the interchiller. You wouldn’t need the buy the optional 3 way bypass heat exchanger valve/solenoid. I would tape off the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger with high temperature tape to keep debris from entering it though.

 

[Air’d outSRT]

1. So what's the verdict for us in humid climates like Fla? I'm about to have a 1-hour commute each way for work. If I go with Ripa or IC chiller, do i just shut off the chiller like 10 mins before i get to work to reduce condensation build-up and starting issues? '

2. Also, Dumb Q but I dont have to run the chiller all the time right? Like if im just running up the road to pickup take-out (5 mins each way) for example, no need
for chiller in those situations. The IC chiller site shows chiller + cabin or chiller only as the options so just want to be sure i can run no chiller...

3. Also, what is the 3-way bypass that IC Chillers sells as an upgrade for $200?

4. And any issues with an interchiller and offroading? When we rock crawl at slow speeds i have had the AC overflow drip onto the exhaust for hours until i shut off the AC for a bit. Wondering whether the interchiller would be a problem for slow speed rock crawling in high ambient temps?

I copied your post and sent it to my buddy Charlie so he can answer it all and you will have it from one of the owners mouth.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I copied your post and sent it to my buddy Charlie so he can answer it all and you will have it from one of the owners mouth.

Thank you because there is a lot of misinformation here.

With regard to high humidity hard starts, as stated the issue with condensation is internal condensation not external. In humid environments the delta-t between the bricks and ambient air with the chiller on will produce condensation as the vehicle sits after shutoff. Hence the issue in the 1-4 hour window after shutdown. The only way around this is to shut off the chiller for a few minutes before shutting off the vehicle and put some boost through the bricks to heat and clear them. The chiller is only shut off by turning off the AC compressor (shut off the AC completely). So on your drive you would need to shut down the AC and give it a couple pulls at the end of your drive before parking to raise IC temps. Personally I would not run a chiller on a DD in a humid environment.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

The IC Chillers 3 way bypass is an option that allows you to switch from interchiller to your heat exchanger only. It basically gives you the option to keep your stock heat exchanger in place and run your TRX without the interchiller. Of course your IC temps are going to be much higher in this mode. As far as the slow rock climbing, slow speed, condensation, I can’t really give you any opinions about it. Maybe someone who does slow rock climbing with and interchiller can chime in to answer your question.

IC’s bypass does the opposite and provides the ability to bypass the stock OEM heat exchanger, not the aftermarket one.

 

[WOHT]

Thank you because there is a lot of misinformation here.

With regard to high humidity hard starts, as stated the issue with condensation is internal condensation not external. In humid environments the delta-t between the bricks and ambient air with the chiller on will produce condensation as the vehicle sits after shutoff. Hence the issue in the 1-4 hour window after shutdown. The only way around this is to shut off the chiller for a few minutes before shutting off the vehicle and put some boost through the bricks to heat and clear them. The chiller is only shut off by turning off the AC compressor (shut off the AC completely). So on your drive you would need to shut down the AC and give it a couple pulls at the end of your drive before parking to raise IC temps. Personally I would not run a chiller on a DD in a humid environment.

I believe that was the same advise I provided already.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I believe that was the same advise I provided already.

Your advice in post 83 was to do that in a cold environment where the delta t and condensation is actually less than a hot environment. More condensation and issues occur in a hot ambient environment. He’s in Florida so saying cold environment might not sound applicable to him. Want to make sure he knows the issue is not a cold one. Also having the AC off on startup does nothing to help with the startup issue and really doesn’t do anything at all. It takes minutes before the chiller takes effect on the IC system.

 

[WOHT]

Your advice in post 83 was to do that in a cold environment where the delta t and condensation is actually less than a hot environment. More condensation and issues occur in a hot ambient environment. He’s in Florida so saying cold environment might not sound applicable to him. Want to make sure he knows the issue is not a cold one. Also having the AC off on startup does nothing to help with the startup issue and really doesn’t do anything at all. It takes minutes before the chiller takes effect on the IC system.

I agree that him living in Florida shouldn’t be a problem, but he asked about hard start ups, so I just gave him some basic information in general, if he were living in a colder environment. That question is often asked throughout forums. As for the AC off during starts, I’m in California, and I have found it helps me during start ups to have the AC off during my start ups. However, as stated previously, some people will agree or disagree with my suggestions and advice. To each their own. I’m not looking to debate or start an argument with anyone. The purpose of “forums” is to get advice from multiple people, and let the person asking the question(s) make up their own decision(s) based on the feedback he or she receives.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Thank you because there is a lot of misinformation here.

With regard to high humidity hard starts, as stated the issue with condensation is internal condensation not external. In humid environments the delta-t between the bricks and ambient air with the chiller on will produce condensation as the vehicle sits after shutoff. Hence the issue in the 1-4 hour window after shutdown. The only way around this is to shut off the chiller for a few minutes before shutting off the vehicle and put some boost through the bricks to heat and clear them. The chiller is only shut off by turning off the AC compressor (shut off the AC completely). So on your drive you would need to shut down the AC and give it a couple pulls at the end of your drive before parking to raise IC temps. Personally I would not run a chiller on a DD in a humid environment.

So is your main concern with running a chiller in high humidity environments having a hard time starting on occasion or causing actual damage (long term or what have you) with condensation dripping into cylinder(s)? I think I could get into a regular habit of clearing the bricks via some WOT runs before shutdown but there would definitely be times that i wouldnt have that opportunity. I also wear a suit many days so having to shut off the AC, do a few WOT pulls, and arrive at the office/court/etc with no AC running could be problematic for sure lol.

I have seen water sprayed into a cylinder and it actually does some effective cleaning on DI vehicles, for example. Stupidly wondering if maybe there could be some positive effects of having a little drippage lol

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

IC’s bypass does the opposite and provides the ability to bypass the stock OEM heat exchanger, not the aftermarket one.

If i dont get the 3-way bypass kit, am i going to have a hole in my heat exchanger that i need to "plug"? B/c that's a no-go for me given the regular offroad/sand/mud/etc i throw at my rig

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

I copied your post and sent it to my buddy Charlie so he can answer it all and you will have it from one of the owners mouth.

Owner of which company? I'm leaning towards IC Chiller based on price and the lack of fluid tank rezzy. I know i will lose performance but i dont believe i have the space with my windshield rezzy relocation/etc. Plus, less performance may actually be a good thing since it will result in less condensation/drippage/etc.

My goal = plug & play removable kit that lines up all my horses for a 0-60 or quick rolling pull (3-6 secs) no matter what the ambient temp is outside. Not race tracking. But the kit has to be able to handle frequent offroading.

 

[WOHT]

If i dont get the 3-way bypass kit, am i going to have a hole in my heat exchanger that i need to "plug"? B/c that's a no-go for me given the regular offroad/sand/mud/etc i throw at my rig

Yes, just like I suggested.

 

[Air’d outSRT]

Owner of which company? I'm leaning towards IC Chiller based on price and the lack of fluid tank rezzy. I know i will lose performance but i dont believe i have the space with my windshield rezzy relocation/etc. Plus, less performance may actually be a good thing since it will result in less condensation/drippage/etc.

My goal = plug & play removable kit that lines up all my horses for a 0-60 or quick rolling pull (3-6 secs) no matter what the ambient temp is outside. Not race tracking. But the kit has to be able to handle frequent offroading.

IC Chiller. I wouldn’t put anything else on any of my vehicles that is rebranded by Ol’ Steve Ripa-u-off again. There is another post with pics of his rebranded weapon x heat exchanger, valve ect.

 

[WOHT]

IC’s bypass does the opposite and provides the ability to bypass the stock OEM heat exchanger, not the aftermarket one.

I believe the 3 way bypass question he was asking is what does it do. Which, I provided him with what I understand it to be as far as functionality. If he wants to retain the use of his heat exchanger, and use a interchiller, he can chose to go from interchiller to heat exchanger, and vice versa. Basically, if he isn’t doing any hard driving, he can use the heat exchanger during his drive. If he wants more performance, he can switch to the interchiller, which will give him very cold IC temps, making his TRX performance better by provided real rwhp that he will be able to feel as well as helping the pcm from pulling timing. However, 99% of people simply bypass the heat exchanger permanently, and chose not to use a 3 way bypass valve/solenoid.