Cons of Interchiller - In humid environments

I smell coolant from the passenger side front wheel well on my truck all the time but no chiller. I'm currently working with my dealer to chase down possible issues. This comment doesn't really help you but the wheel well coolant smell is a thing on stock trucks that people have had.
People with coolant leaks I imagine? I did have a coolant leak from overfilling but this seems to be a different smell i believe. Then again isnt refrigerant odorless? I dunno. It seems both coolant and refrigerant have a slightly sweet smell so not sure how to distinguish. I figure if I’m not seeing any coolant leaking anywhere anymore, then it’s probably refrigerant but who knows.
 
Quick update for those looking for more chiller feedback. I drove around 1200 miles in the last few days and here are my findings:
  • 1/6: 57 Ambient. Chiller only mode
    • Custom mode: 57-59 deg IC coolant temp
    • Tow mode: 59 deg
    • Auto mode: 44-46 deg
    • Sport mode: 46 deg
    • Baja mode: 39-41 deg
    • Was very surprised Auto mode did so well. Since i usually run in custom mode with baja suspension/etc. I just changed my auto setting to baja suspension so i get the benefit of the lower IC coolant temps

  • IMPORTANT for HIGH HUMIDITY FOLKS: If you cruise in chiller only mode for long periods in high humidity areas, prepare for a bit of condensation to enter the cylinders while you're driving (not just when you shutdown). I found this out after about 90mins of cruising at 80mph. I went to hit the skinny pedal and all sorts of bog/surge/crackle/pop/etc (very upset sounding lol). I went WOT again a minute later and truck ran like a raped ape. Then Waited about 30 mins to WOT again and it bogged a smidge on 1st pull. 2nd pull = perfect. Then waited about 15 mins and went WOT and truck was normal. Moral of that story is give it a little boosty boost before you run anyone in Mexico if cruising in high humidity areas for more than 20+ mins.
    • Day to day high (>90% humidity) driving experience: I've had some rough starts if i dont give it some beans before shut down. I even had a rough start when I let the coolant temp rise to mid 60s before shut down. It seems that you'll need to turn the cabin mode on to get temps higher than 60s before shutdown to avoid the rough start. Will continue reporting my findings as I drive.
60 deg day, chiller only. Still working on finally tuning tweaks and I haven’t insulated the IC lines in the engine bay.


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You just go the corking tape route?
For the Tx valve, yes. I can’t really get my grill on and off without destroying my headlight PPF so once Kirk gave me the greenlight to insulate the Tx valve, I did it from the top without removing the grill and tore my forearms all apart.
 
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Anyone with a chiller (esp an FI), notice the smell of what I imagine is refrigerant coming from the passenger side grill/wheel well/engine bay area after a drive? If not, please go sniff those areas as soon as you turn the truck off and let me know. I know we installed 100 lines in that area but i'm not sure if i should be smelling something like i have been and wondering if maybe i have a small leak or smthin
Most likely as other members have said you are smelling anti freeze.
If the refrigerant were leaking which is extremely unlikely given the CNC fittings we use and pre made AC hoses you would be suffering a loss of cooling performance in the cabin and the chiller.

Insulating intercooler hoses, and the suction line all adds up to minimizing your energy losses, and will net colder temps.
The more time you spend insulating and heat shielding the colder you will get.
 
For those who live in warm climates, your kids will be excited to see if your truck is producing snow lol.

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Most likely as other members have said you are smelling anti freeze.
If the refrigerant were leaking which is extremely unlikely given the CNC fittings we use and pre made AC hoses you would be suffering a loss of cooling performance in the cabin and the chiller.

Insulating intercooler hoses, and the suction line all adds up to minimizing your energy losses, and will net colder temps.
The more time you spend insulating and heat shielding the colder you will get.
You're prolly right. I'm not leaking any coolant now from the overflow and coolant levels are stable so i'll see if i still notice the smell in the coming days
 
For anyone interested, you CAN run S&B intake + Forced Induction Interchiller + 3gal Rezzy tank + Brawler’s behind the grill lights + a Mighty mouse catch can (sealed top)

AND still keep your windshield washer rezzy lol

Not finished making everything pretty yet but it all fits and it all works.

 
Why did the windshield washer need to be moved?
For the behind the grill lights. The driver's side grill light mount requires the washer rezzy to be relocated. It's relocated spot is right where the chiller tank is. Hence the 2nd relocation
 
Forced Induction Interchiller kit on its way! I ordered everything optional to upgrade to the best of everything. Very excited to get this installed this spring and hit the truck pull track! "CARNAGE" as I call her, will be the first pro built TRX for truck pulling racing.
Follow us here, www.teamvenom.racing

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The engine is naturally aspirated when not in boost, you can drive it anywhere you need to repair it as long as you avoid going into boost, no need for a tow.
What Dodge/Ram have not taken into consideration with these trucks is the AC compressor is from a Hellcat for road use and not for off road use.

As example when you look at trucks, mining equipment, on most class 8 trucks (33,000lbs + trucks), basically anything that sees a high dusty or dirty environment they run a heavy duty compressor suited to withstand the harsh environments, take this example: http://sanden.com/super-heavy-duty-compressors/

As you can see this also include a fail safe clutch design which would have come in handy with your issue.
Good video with the belt option regarding the water pump
 
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