Condensation occurs on all hellcat based engines regardless of which chiller is being used.
The issue is 100% able to be fixed in the tune, however some tuners have been unable to replicate the results of other tuners who have fixed the issue. I am not sure why they haven't been able to tune/fix the issue as it is a simple case of adding more fuel to the hot start table which then dilutes the condensation with more fuel. This has been replicated and fixed by 2-3 home tuners, OST Dyno, ZH Tunes, Baily Hyperformance, RSPDMV, Overkill Performance, Full Blown Performance to name a few that have fixed the hot start issue.
Yes 100% fixable in the tune.
Additionally, the condensation issue can be resolved in a number of different ways outside of tuning:
1. Place the intercooler pump on a switch, simply turn the pump off a few min before you get home and when you see the fluid temp getting closer to the outside air temp you will be fine.
2. Edge into boost 0-2psi is all that is needed, this will blow out any condensation, this can be done in the driveway or on the final few streets back home. This can also be combined with #1 turning off the intercooler pump.
3. If you decide to retain the HX (we provide instructions on how to do this) you can switch to HX mode, put the chiller in cabin and chiller mode so you are not getting as cold anymore, edge into boost blow out the condensation and since the HX will heat your fluid up either not much or no condensation will form.
4. Turn off the AC, edge into boost, blow the condensation out.
5. In cabin and chiller mode condensation is much less of an issue as you are not getting it as cold, you can then also manipulate it as per the above suggestions to make it remove the condensation.
6. Tune it out and don't worry about it ever again
Personally, the intercooler pump on a switch is very easy, so is giving it a little short lean on with the AC turned off 1-2 streets before home. When I say lean on it, I mean just that just go into boost a touch, most of the time this won't even break the speed limit.
We have heard from 1 workshop that the demon chiller core split open on them at the track, I have not had a good look at the OEM core, but knowing how our cores are made the OEM core won't be made the same.
Our cores are extremely strong, pressure tested to 1000psi on both circuits independently of one another.
We now offer a tank, here is the install video for you:
I didn't lose my mind or speak out of turn, I also was not banned, you can read the thread here:
https://www.ram-trx.com/threads/ram-trx-interchiller-plug-play-kit.17764/
There is a lot of useful information within it as has been mentioned by others.
The factory AC system in the TRX is satisfactory, I measured the bone stock TRX vent temps on the same day at idle and cruise Vs our hellcat which is fitted with our stage 1 chiller kit and the hellcat is colder than a stock TRX.
This is one of the reasons why we only support the TRX with our stage 2 kit as our stage 2 kit actually improves the efficiency of the AC system, ensuring the cabin AC is not impacted and the chiller gets nice and cold.
The other home made kits will ALL impact the performance of the cabin AC especially in summer time.
Where as we proved our kit in the heat of summer in Texas and proved the AC is not impacted, something you will NOT find from the home installers as they simply cannot show you that test as they will fail it.
Video of the testing right here:
You should have a read of the original thread where this question is answered in more detail, I can again confirm all other kits (sounds like a pitch to only buy FII but it is true) all are a beer wort cooler made for a fluid to fluid heat exchange. In a beer wort the cost of the core is a concern for the homebrewer so it is made as cheap as possible, hence the profit is so good on them. They are not made for refrigerant use, not made for automotive use, not NVH tested or approved, and certainly not made for off road use. Cross contamination is also not a concern for the heat exchanger manufacturer as the intended use is for home brew. They are not going to care if some water is mixed with some beer hops.
Because these cores have a laminar flow they will sludge over time, stripping oil from the AC compressor and resulting in AC compressor failure. Which is also proven when the customers of these home made kits reach out saying they previously were able to get to X degrees but can not anymore as the unit is now sludged with oil + the compressor will be on its way out.
You can read that thread here:
https://www.ram-trx.com/threads/ram-trx-interchiller-plug-play-kit.17764/
All kits mentioned in this thread are a repurposed beer wort fluid to fluid heat exchanger, other than FI.
This along with many other reasons is why none can get the same results as FII.
These cores do not simply come in different sizes, hell I've seen people use cores bigger than ours and even seen one place using 2 chillers and still not getting even remotely close to our results.
We have screenshots anytime any customer from a competitor contacts us and I can confirm we have had AC compressor failures from all mentioned home made kits, as well as workshops saying X-brand doesn't get as cold in the cabin or the chiller or both and they wish to change the kit out. All of these screenshots can be made available if needed.
Blocking refrigerant flow to the chiller is not advisable, the amount of refrigerant the chiller uses Vs the cabin is significantly more, if you block flow to the chiller then the AC system immediately becomes overcharged with too much refrigerant. The only way this is possible is to have an extremely small chiller core, which is what the Demon/Redeye has and why they can run cabin only and chiller only, however the chiller is way to small and not much cooling is achieved.
You are far better off tuning the issue out or any of the above options mentioned to resolve the issue manually.
Simply throw the system into chiller only mode, set the cabin to your desired temp the chiller will get nice and cold, and you will be nice and toasty. Freezing point of the Anti Freeze is much colder than the boiling point of the refrigerant so there are no issues.
Coldest we have run our chiller in was 12F and snowing.
Once the condensation is blown out, as no "new air" as you say has been introduced no more condensation can form. Especially given the fact that the engine is heat soaking and evaporating everything.
This is also proven out why the hot start issue generally only occurs between 45min and 2hrs, between 0-45min the condensation has not dropped, and after 2hrs it has evaporated.
There is a lot of room up front on the TRX the headlights "should" fit without issue.
I can forward you the instructions which you can review.
I can also say that with the chiller installed I dropped a tool on top of the chiller and was able to reach down and grab it, there is a huge amount of room there even with the chiller installed. Like a lot of room there actuall
Seems like a good time for a reminder to get this thread back on track. 
