Cons of Interchiller - In humid environments

I just thought of a potential positive to not having a tune to increase the intercooler pump to 100% and the engine fans to run 100% of the time....maybe the whole system will run a bit less efficiently and therefore reduce the condensation/starting issue. My kit gets here on Monday so I'm hoping to install next weekend (assuming i can figure it out and dont run into a ton of issues trying to fit everything in there with my bumper/winch/behind grill lights/etc)
 
Bill and I plan to do it over Christmas break. BTW we changed it a bit so it's likely not going to be an issue with the light bar mount.
Damnit… I needed bill to make a new bracket for his fluid reservoir 😭
 
Damnit… I needed bill to make a new bracket for his fluid reservoir 😭
I'm still working on it and should have it finalized soon. I'll send you one for free once they are ready.
 
Im the owner that made everyone cry about my results. It was on a HUB dyno, so 0 drive train loss. If you factor in 10% for drive train loss my truck made about 670whp ish. I thought the car guys in here with the accolades would use their heads and figure that out, but it didn't happen. Looking forward to installing my upper pulley and injectors soon. :)
 
Im the owner that made everyone cry about my results. It was on a HUB dyno, so 0 drive train loss. If you factor in 10% for drive train loss my truck made about 670whp ish. I thought the car guys in here with the accolades would use their heads and figure that out, but it didn't happen. Looking forward to installing my upper pulley and injectors soon. :)
🤡

Everyone has read your thread of you trying to defend your numbers as true whp values until I posted your own shop saying they weren’t real.

But I appreciate this post because once again you show you completely don’t understand anything automotive. Hub dynos still have a significant portion of drivetrain losses from the torque converter efficiency to gearing to the rotational mass/inertia of all of the spinning components. Taking the tires off is only a part of “drivetrain loss.” The issue with why hub dynos can read wildly off is because changing one simple input parameter can greatly adjust the output value. Wheel mass and moment of inertia has to be manually input into the dyno (unlike environmental parameters that are typically automatically loaded via sensors) which means there is an opportunity for the user to easily manipulate the results in either direction.

Pretty much every single person on your thread called out your numbers as being exaggerated. Meaning that the dyno was not setup correctly and a correctly setup hub dyno will take into account ALL drivetrain losses.

You were quite literally the only person on your thread to lack the basic IQ to come to the same conclusion until I dropped in the convo I had with your own shop.

As I type this I realize you must be trolling this forum…no one can actually be as stupid as you.
 
🤡

Everyone has read your thread of you trying to defend your numbers as true whp values until I posted your own shop saying they weren’t real.

But I appreciate this post because once again you show you completely don’t understand anything automotive. Hub dynos still have a significant portion of drivetrain losses from the torque converter efficiency to gearing to the rotational mass/inertia of all of the spinning components. Taking the tires off is only a part of “drivetrain loss.” The issue with why hub dynos can read wildly off is because changing one simple input parameter can greatly adjust the output value. Wheel mass and moment of inertia has to be manually input into the dyno (unlike environmental parameters that are typically automatically loaded via sensors) which means there is an opportunity for the user to easily manipulate the results in either direction.

Pretty much every single person on your thread called out your numbers as being exaggerated. Meaning that the dyno was not setup correctly and a correctly setup hub dyno will take into account ALL drivetrain losses.

You were quite literally the only person on your thread to lack the basic IQ to come to the same conclusion until I dropped in the convo I had with your own shop.

As I type this I realize you must be trolling this forum…no one can actually be as stupid as you.
You’re the most hurt one. Tell me, what is the one simple input that needs to be manipulated?
 
🤡

Everyone has read your thread of you trying to defend your numbers as true whp values until I posted your own shop saying they weren’t real.

But I appreciate this post because once again you show you completely don’t understand anything automotive. Hub dynos still have a significant portion of drivetrain losses from the torque converter efficiency to gearing to the rotational mass/inertia of all of the spinning components. Taking the tires off is only a part of “drivetrain loss.” The issue with why hub dynos can read wildly off is because changing one simple input parameter can greatly adjust the output value. Wheel mass and moment of inertia has to be manually input into the dyno (unlike environmental parameters that are typically automatically loaded via sensors) which means there is an opportunity for the user to easily manipulate the results in either direction.

Pretty much every single person on your thread called out your numbers as being exaggerated. Meaning that the dyno was not setup correctly and a correctly setup hub dyno will take into account ALL drivetrain losses.

You were quite literally the only person on your thread to lack the basic IQ to come to the same conclusion until I dropped in the convo I had with your own shop.

As I type this I realize you must be trolling this forum…no one can actually be as stupid as you.
1000% he’s trolling at this point. No one can be that dense
 
So I pulled the trigger on the FI chiller during Black Friday pricing. However, I am now seeing instructions that say a tune is required (which i didn’t know). Can anyone Clarify this for me as to whether a tune is required to use and/or gain all the benefits from the FI interchiller?

I was planning on wiring the condenser fan to a switched/ignition fuse via add-a-fuse so that it is always on when I turn the key but I’m seeing instructions that require the intercooler pump to be turned all the way up/etc. that I obviously will not be able to do
Do you need a list of the additional hardware required for install? Finally have mine all together and will start the tear down next week for all the new stuff.
 
You’re the most hurt one. Tell me, what is the one simple input that needs to be manipulated?
If you had any reading comprehension you would see I wrote it already… wheel moment of inertia. It’s wheel dependent. Higher than actual will over-predict drivetrain losses and artificially boost the predicted “whp” value.
 
Well there's only one thing left to say. AzDino is game how about scubajoe??
 

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You have his contact info? We will have it dialed in soon. Just been busy. Just got back from PRI so we are back at it.
Bill has taken excellent care of me over the past two years!
 
Anyone with a chiller (esp an FI), notice the smell of what I imagine is refrigerant coming from the passenger side grill/wheel well/engine bay area after a drive? If not, please go sniff those areas as soon as you turn the truck off and let me know. I know we installed 100 lines in that area but i'm not sure if i should be smelling something like i have been and wondering if maybe i have a small leak or smthin
 
Quick update for those looking for more chiller feedback. I drove around 1200 miles in the last few days and here are my findings:
  • 1/6: 57 Ambient. Chiller only mode
    • Custom mode: 57-59 deg IC coolant temp
    • Tow mode: 59 deg
    • Auto mode: 44-46 deg
    • Sport mode: 46 deg
    • Baja mode: 39-41 deg
    • Was very surprised Auto mode did so well. Since i usually run in custom mode with baja suspension/etc. I just changed my auto setting to baja suspension so i get the benefit of the lower IC coolant temps

  • IMPORTANT for HIGH HUMIDITY FOLKS: If you cruise in chiller only mode for long periods in high humidity areas, prepare for a bit of condensation to enter the cylinders while you're driving (not just when you shutdown). I found this out after about 90mins of cruising at 80mph. I went to hit the skinny pedal and all sorts of bog/surge/crackle/pop/etc (very upset sounding lol). I went WOT again a minute later and truck ran like a raped ape. Then Waited about 30 mins to WOT again and it bogged a smidge on 1st pull. 2nd pull = perfect. Then waited about 15 mins and went WOT and truck was normal. Moral of that story is give it a little boosty boost before you run anyone in Mexico if cruising in high humidity areas for more than 20+ mins.
    • Day to day high (>90% humidity) driving experience: I've had some rough starts if i dont give it some beans before shut down. I even had a rough start when I let the coolant temp rise to mid 60s before shut down. It seems that you'll need to turn the cabin mode on to get temps higher than 60s before shutdown to avoid the rough start. Will continue reporting my findings as I drive.
 
Quick update for those looking for more chiller feedback. I drove around 1200 miles in the last few days and here are my findings:
  • 1/6: 57 Ambient. Chiller only mode
    • Custom mode: 57-59 deg IC coolant temp
    • Tow mode: 59 deg
    • Auto mode: 44-46 deg
    • Sport mode: 46 deg
    • Baja mode: 39-41 deg
    • Was very surprised Auto mode did so well. Since i usually run in custom mode with baja suspension/etc. I just changed my auto setting to baja suspension so i get the benefit of the lower IC coolant temps

  • IMPORTANT for HIGH HUMIDITY FOLKS: If you cruise in chiller only mode for long periods in high humidity areas, prepare for a bit of condensation to enter the cylinders while you're driving (not just when you shutdown). I found this out after about 90mins of cruising at 80mph. I went to hit the skinny pedal and all sorts of bog/surge/crackle/pop/etc (very upset sounding lol). I went WOT again a minute later and truck ran like a raped ape. Then Waited about 30 mins to WOT again and it bogged a smidge on 1st pull. 2nd pull = perfect. Then waited about 15 mins and went WOT and truck was normal. Moral of that story is give it a little boosty boost before you run anyone in Mexico if cruising in high humidity areas for more than 20+ mins.
    • Day to day high (>90% humidity) driving experience: I've had some rough starts if i dont give it some beans before shut down. I even had a rough start when I let the coolant temp rise to mid 60s before shut down. It seems that you'll need to turn the cabin mode on to get temps higher than 60s before shutdown to avoid the rough start. Will continue reporting my findings as I drive.
I smell coolant from the passenger side front wheel well on my truck all the time but no chiller. I'm currently working with my dealer to chase down possible issues. This comment doesn't really help you but the wheel well coolant smell is a thing on stock trucks that people have had.
 
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