TRX CV Axle options

Who's in on a group buy for indestructible CVs that accomodate lift/37s w/lifetime warrant for $2999


  • Total voters
    57
100% all of our CVs were NOT caused by something external to the axle itself. I also dont think it's only an isolated manu problem as we've had 13 or so over the last 2.5 years that cannot possibly be from the same batch
That's why I think it might be something specific to your truck. Could be the weather causes something in the boots, an alignment mistake on the differential to the frame, a bad batch of shocks that lets the wheels hang more, some sort of driveline imbalance, etc.

Like I said, I don't off-road as hard as you, but I've still jumped mine, been on full articulation on trails, scraped it on rocks, and launched it both on and off-road without any CV issues. I was paranoid the first year driving the truck and checked my CV boots constantly, yet they still look great. It seems like there's something else going on, I just don't know what.

Has one side has more issues than the other?
 
That's why I think it might be something specific to your truck. Could be the weather causes something in the boots, an alignment mistake on the differential to the frame, a bad batch of shocks that lets the wheels hang more, some sort of driveline imbalance, etc.

Like I said, I don't off-road as hard as you, but I've still jumped mine, been on full articulation on trails, scraped it on rocks, and launched it both on and off-road without any CV issues. I was paranoid the first year driving the truck and checked my CV boots constantly, yet they still look great. It seems like there's something else going on, I just don't know what.

Has one side has more issues than the other?
I wish it was just ours but there's sooo many people like every week with blown CVs on the FB pages (even stock pavement princesses). I'm sure the 40s and no front sway bar doesnt help our cause but the boots blow regardless of temps. They typically go back & forth (driver then passenger then driver/etc). I'm trying to pin it down on mileage. So far it looks like maybe every 8-15k they last but i only recently started logging that into my notes but we may be exceeding that theory in the very near future

32000 = driver CV axle blown
42400 = pass CV axle blown
46988 = driver CV axle blown
50655 = pass CV axle blown
55575 = driver CV axle blown
_______ = pass CV axle blown?? (SUSPENSE IS KILLING ME AS IM CURRENTLY AT 60,700 so it's gotta be on the next trip or 2!)
 
I wish it was just ours but there's sooo many people like every week with blown CVs on the FB pages (even stock pavement princesses). I'm sure the 40s and no front sway bar doesnt help our cause but the boots blow regardless of temps. They typically go back & forth (driver then passenger then driver/etc). I'm trying to pin it down on mileage. So far it looks like maybe every 8-15k they last but i only recently started logging that into my notes but we may be exceeding that theory in the very near future

32000 = driver CV axle blown
42400 = pass CV axle blown
46988 = driver CV axle blown
50655 = pass CV axle blown
55575 = driver CV axle blown
_______ = pass CV axle blown?? (SUSPENSE IS KILLING ME AS IM CURRENTLY AT 60,700 so it's gotta be on the next trip or 2!)
That's the side of the argument that makes me think it's some sort of production run issue, maybe truck specific.

I'm at 71k miles without a single blown axle, and while they're mostly highway miles I've had 40k of them with 37s and a level up front.
 
That's the side of the argument that makes me think it's some sort of production run issue, maybe truck specific.

I'm at 71k miles without a single blown axle, and while they're mostly highway miles I've had 40k of them with 37s and a level up front.
Alignment maybe? Our longer A arms mean a minor adjustment at the alignment cam translates to a lot of movement out at the hub. I wonder if someone who is eating CV's ran a line (put it on a lift and shoot a laser line) from center hub to hub if it would be offset from the front diff centerline, and those who seem to have no problems it would be all centered.
 
Alignment maybe? Our longer A arms mean a minor adjustment at the alignment cam translates to a lot of movement out at the hub. I wonder if someone who is eating CV's ran a line (put it on a lift and shoot a laser line) from center hub to hub if it would be offset from the front diff centerline, and those who seem to have no problems it would be all centered.
Has anyone ruled out the material of the boot being the issue? My bmw i8 was known to have bad shock strut boots that dried up and broke into pieces allowing dirt to get on the piston and prematurely blow the shocks out. Mine even got a piece of the broken rubber in the piston damaging the seals.

Could be something similar here some people depending on where they live dry climates may have boots that crack and let grease out causing the internal parts of the cv to go early as well as the boot itself even flipping inward between those spline in the ev to get jammed.

I looked at my cv boots and they look a bit hard and dried out so I coated them with silicone to keep them soft and flexible
 
That's why I think it might be something specific to your truck. Could be the weather causes something in the boots, an alignment mistake on the differential to the frame, a bad batch of shocks that lets the wheels hang more, some sort of driveline imbalance, etc.

Like I said, I don't off-road as hard as you, but I've still jumped mine, been on full articulation on trails, scraped it on rocks, and launched it both on and off-road without any CV issues. I was paranoid the first year driving the truck and checked my CV boots constantly, yet they still look great. It seems like there's something else going on, I just don't know what.

Has one side has more issues than the other?
 
Has anyone ruled out the material of the boot being the issue? My bmw i8 was known to have bad shock strut boots that dried up and broke into pieces allowing dirt to get on the piston and prematurely blow the shocks out. Mine even got a piece of the broken rubber in the piston damaging the seals.

Could be something similar here some people depending on where they live dry climates may have boots that crack and let grease out causing the internal parts of the cv to go early as well as the boot itself even flipping inward between those spline in the ev to get jammed.

I looked at my cv boots and they look a bit hard and dried out so I coated them with silicone to keep them soft and flexible
When the trx first came out, winter time had the most cv boot failures.

Gm also had a problem with hard boots that cracked. Hence the aftermarket boots.

Also the grease in the collapsing spline shaft seemed to have a lot of stiction in cold weather and when the stars aligned the inner cv pulled off
 
Definitely think I'll add that when I get my truck back. They're replacing the front diff because the shaft coming out of it had the spline misaligned from their prior replacement of that CV axle last April. Apparently, the guy who replaced it at the dealership didn't get the CV axle seated all the way on to the C clip and caused it to twist with the amount of torque applied. Took them a week and two different CV axles to figure out why they couldn't get it fully seated. The picture isn't off my truck but is similar to what mine looked like. View attachment 156447

Not getting the axle splines seated is an issue truck world wide. Usually by mechanics who are in a hurry or don’t know any better. Same with mechanics who leave the c clip off
 
Has anyone ruled out the material of the boot being the issue? My bmw i8 was known to have bad shock strut boots that dried up and broke into pieces allowing dirt to get on the piston and prematurely blow the shocks out. Mine even got a piece of the broken rubber in the piston damaging the seals.

Could be something similar here some people depending on where they live dry climates may have boots that crack and let grease out causing the internal parts of the cv to go early as well as the boot itself even flipping inward between those spline in the ev to get jammed.

I looked at my cv boots and they look a bit hard and dried out so I coated them with silicone to keep them soft and flexible
It's definitely a boot material issue IMO. It's too stiff. I'm sure florida heat & sun doesnt help but others in super cold climates have had lots of boot problems as well so they must not fair very well in super cold climates. Then again, Dubshep is in Houston which is prolly hot/sunny as Hades too sooo 😵‍💫
 
Alignment maybe? Our longer A arms mean a minor adjustment at the alignment cam translates to a lot of movement out at the hub. I wonder if someone who is eating CV's ran a line (put it on a lift and shoot a laser line) from center hub to hub if it would be offset from the front diff centerline, and those who seem to have no problems it would be all centered.
Interesting theory. Could be on to something here
 
Had to replace passenger side half shaft/CV boot. Curr part number confirmed in 2nd pic. No blown CV’s prior to this.

2021 - 36,980 miles.
Normal off-roading use, no Baja, no jeep trail rock crawling. Colorado mountain trails.

Suspension factory up to 24k miles. 37” Falkans on factory wheels at 28k miles. Eibach leveling kit at 32k miles to prevent rubbing in deep corners. Passenger side boot blew sometime in last 2 weeks (so around 36,500 miles.) No off-roading in the last 60 days. No impacts from what I can tell. Dealer performed replacement on 3/19/26. New half shaft and boot holding steady after about 150 miles.

Not sure this helps anyone, always good to document the circumstances for posterity in the thread though!!!
 

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Does anyone know what material the CV boots are made out of? Different elastomers are susceptible to different things, could be an environmental exposure issue.
yea. That’s why I looked Into the empi boots.
Known good material. Strong in cold weather, strong in hot. Resistant to sand spray etc. pliable.
Outer boot is a stock ram 1500 boot. I can’t remember the part number for the outside boot. It’s somewhere on the forum.

I’m sure there are other companies out there making good boots that fit too.
 
UPDATE:

32000 = driver CV axle blown
42400 = pass CV axle blown
46988 = driver CV axle blown
50655 = pass CV axle blown
55575 = driver CV axle blown
_______ = pass CV axle blown??

***2 more trips in the books and still going strong at 64k!***
 
Last edited:
Has anyone ruled out the material of the boot being the issue? My bmw i8 was known to have bad shock strut boots that dried up and broke into pieces allowing dirt to get on the piston and prematurely blow the shocks out. Mine even got a piece of the broken rubber in the piston damaging the seals.

Could be something similar here some people depending on where they live dry climates may have boots that crack and let grease out causing the internal parts of the cv to go early as well as the boot itself even flipping inward between those spline in the ev to get jammed.

I looked at my cv boots and they look a bit hard and dried out so I coated them with silicone to keep them soft and flexible
Living here in metro-Phoenix totally agree. The logic makes total sense. Cursory search "CV boots drying out Arizona heat" resulted in many posts and Silicone spray recommendations. Perhaps an urban legend? Trying to find info re: the Porsche model that infamously had it's taillights melt/warp from the extreme heat/dry climate.

No doubt why many test centers are located here in the Southwest- extreme varying climates/even altitude during a 'day drive' to the fine silt off-road. Loved seeing various test mules back in the 90's while on Patrol....some RHD, various camo efforts, unique foreign market badging, often seat-belted water jug 'passengers'. Definitely conditions that are harsh especially on rubber. We have to park our vehicles outside and cycle out batteries no fail - every two (2) years!

Fascinated by the mods that Border Patrol make to their Fleet vehicles and incredible feedback their daily conditions must provide manufacturers/Tier 1 suppliers. Curious now as to their related issues and preventive maintenance to potential upgrades? Another damn TRX inspired 'Rabbit Hole' to make some calls tomorrow and chase LOL!

A.I. points...
  • Arizona is a premier location for hot weather testing because it offers and intense, reliable combination of extreme dry heat, high UV radiation and minimal cloud cover. These conditions allow manufacturers and researchers to accelerate the testing of materials, vehicles, and products, simulating years of wear-and-tear in a short time. Low Humidity and High Sun Exposure: The lack of moisture in the air means less cloud cover, allowing for maximum sun exposure and accelerated testing of materials.
  • The Urban Heat Island Effect: Cities like Phoenix have high concentrations of concrete and asphalt, which absorb heat during the day and release it at night, creating incredibly hot environments for testing how materials endure constant, high-intensity heat.
  • Materials Degradation: The combination of extreme temperatures and UV radiation is ideal for testing the durability of materials like plastics, coatings, and car parts, with specialized sites existing for long-term exposure testing.
  • Infrastructure for Testing: Because of its natural climate, Arizona has developed the necessary infrastructure for testing, including Proving Grounds for automotive companies to check how systems like batteries and cooling perform in extreme conditions.
 
Living here in metro-Phoenix totally agree. The logic makes total sense. Cursory search "CV boots drying out Arizona heat" resulted in many posts and Silicone spray recommendations. Perhaps an urban legend? Trying to find info re: the Porsche model that infamously had it's taillights melt/warp from the extreme heat/dry climate.

No doubt why many test centers are located here in the Southwest- extreme varying climates/even altitude during a 'day drive' to the fine silt off-road. Loved seeing various test mules back in the 90's while on Patrol....some RHD, various camo efforts, unique foreign market badging, often seat-belted water jug 'passengers'. Definitely conditions that are harsh especially on rubber. We have to park our vehicles outside and cycle out batteries no fail - every two (2) years!

Fascinated by the mods that Border Patrol make to their Fleet vehicles and incredible feedback their daily conditions must provide manufacturers/Tier 1 suppliers. Curious now as to their related issues and preventive maintenance to potential upgrades? Another damn TRX inspired 'Rabbit Hole' to make some calls tomorrow and chase LOL!

A.I. points...
  • Arizona is a premier location for hot weather testing because it offers and intense, reliable combination of extreme dry heat, high UV radiation and minimal cloud cover. These conditions allow manufacturers and researchers to accelerate the testing of materials, vehicles, and products, simulating years of wear-and-tear in a short time. Low Humidity and High Sun Exposure: The lack of moisture in the air means less cloud cover, allowing for maximum sun exposure and accelerated testing of materials.
  • The Urban Heat Island Effect: Cities like Phoenix have high concentrations of concrete and asphalt, which absorb heat during the day and release it at night, creating incredibly hot environments for testing how materials endure constant, high-intensity heat.
  • Materials Degradation: The combination of extreme temperatures and UV radiation is ideal for testing the durability of materials like plastics, coatings, and car parts, with specialized sites existing for long-term exposure testing.
  • Infrastructure for Testing: Because of its natural climate, Arizona has developed the necessary infrastructure for testing, including Proving Grounds for automotive companies to check how systems like batteries and cooling perform in extreme conditions.
I've tried spraying boots with a few things from armor all type products to mud-off products and all it does it seem to attract dust/dirt/sand to it. The last thing i want is to have more sand & grit stuck in between the accordions causing it to chafe every time i turn.
 
I've tried spraying boots with a few things from armor all type products to mud-off products and all it does it seem to attract dust/dirt/sand to it. The last thing i want is to have more sand & grit stuck in between the accordions causing it to chafe every time i turn.
Did you try the wd40 silicone grease? Mine seems to stay clean and when stuff gets on it spray more and it slips off
 

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