I guess I'll add another step and check it the correct way before I drain it. Have most of you done that already? Was the factory within the specs?
Transmission (lack of) maintenance and failures…tip of the iceberg?
- Thread starter OnTheReel
- Start date
I checked mine after bypassing the TBV and the level was correct from factory. I remember reading somewhere that these transmissions ship pre-filled from ZF, so the knuckleheads at SHAP don’t have the opportunity to underfill them like everything else was on my truck.
I changed my this past July. I ordered the Blauparts kit and after receiving it the filter was not OEM. The filter it came with is probably adequate but I knew it would bug me to go to the trouble of changing the filter/fluid and not use a OEM filter. I decided to order the filter 68266725AA (68266725AB) from Rockauto and it came with the filter, pan gasket(not the pan), bolts, drain plug and fill plug. The filter had exactly the same markings/stamps as the one I removed. I used the attached for checking fluid level and torque specs/sequence.
Interesting that manual says to hold 2k rpms for at least 30 seconds and to hold each gear for 10 seconds...
Yeah, there’s some disagreement between the ZF and Ram service manuals on that.
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great write up, I have a question , when draining the fluid the transmission needs to be in operating temp? or can it be done cold and the filling part is the one it needs to be in operating temp?, I checked the fluid on mine yesterday and added 1/2 quart of transmission additive and 1/2 quart of atf, and ( checked it at 91 degrees w the engine running ) after that did the park, reverse, 2k rpms , 2nd gear etc procedure, truck ran flawlessly all afternoon, but this morning on my way to work it started slipping again( trans wasn't up to operating temp) so it only does it when cold, do you think a whole transmission fluid change and filter will help, or am I SOL and need a total repair? Any help will be appreciated.-Remove skid plate for access.
-Park on surface that will have the frame rails sitting close to level (since the procedure wants the truck on a level hoist). I fine tune that with a floor jack on the pumpkin.
-Crack fill plug loose to make sure it’s not frozen. Don’t remove fill plug all the way until you’ve drained the trans a bit, unless you want a stinky ATF bath.
-Remove drain plug. Let it drain awhile, ideally into a clean pan with markings to measure the amount you get out. I use this pan here:
Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout - Walmart.com
Buy Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout at Walmart.comwww.walmart.com
-Re-install drain plug. Begin static fill. Pump new fluid in until it trickles back out of the fill hole. This is the pump I use:
Can fill with hand pump instead but it takes awhile longer.
-Start engine and fill again until it trickles out.
-Close fill plug, remove jack.
-Put in reverse, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Put in drive, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Drive a bit up the driveway and shift into second. Back to neutral, raise RPM to 2k for 5 seconds. Basically mimicking their procedure on the ground instead of lift.
-Final top off (if needed) and level check with the trans temp in specified range (86* to no higher than 122*) and the frame leveled out with the jack again. Try not to get scalded by the cat while checking.
Measure amount that came out and note the amount you put in so you know you’re close to the original level. Good for added peace of mind if you’re a first timer.
It all sounds intimidating at first but when you actually work through the steps in your head you can see how simple it actually is.
The temperature only really matters for the final fill & level check. I do mine somewhat cold so I don’t get burned by everything down there.
Up to you but considering the high cost of repair / replacement and the downtime that goes with it, I’d exhaust all other options first. Meaning risk a couple hundred bucks in fluid and filter parts. Just find the cheapest stuff that meets the spec and go for it. Would also try resetting adaptives and doing a quick relearn with AlfaOBD.
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Thank you Ill be doing the change this weekend, Ill buy original filter and oil to try to keep it close to specs, thank you again.
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I had a similar issue with our Armada. I did drain and fill drive a few miles and repeat drain and fill 3 times using the Valvoline ATF and lubegard. I noticed with in a few hours after the last time that it was slipping from a stop to gear. My root cause, I overfilled it. It was hard for me to figure out what a "Trickle" amount was and I had used all kinds of graduated measuring containers, etc. I took maybe 8 oz out and tried again and all was good.
that sounds complicated and a complete pita. Wanna fly out and do mine? I will provide smoked food and beer while you stay-Remove skid plate for access.
-Park on surface that will have the frame rails sitting close to level (since the procedure wants the truck on a level hoist). I fine tune that with a floor jack on the pumpkin.
-Crack fill plug loose to make sure it’s not frozen. Don’t remove fill plug all the way until you’ve drained the trans a bit, unless you want a stinky ATF bath.
-Remove drain plug. Let it drain awhile, ideally into a clean pan with markings to measure the amount you get out. I use this pan here:
Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout - Walmart.com
Buy Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout at Walmart.comwww.walmart.com
-Re-install drain plug. Begin static fill. Pump new fluid in until it trickles back out of the fill hole. This is the pump I use:
Can fill with hand pump instead but it takes awhile longer.
-Start engine and fill again until it trickles out.
-Close fill plug, remove jack.
-Put in reverse, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Put in drive, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Drive a bit up the driveway and shift into second. Back to neutral, raise RPM to 2k for 5 seconds. Basically mimicking their procedure on the ground instead of lift.
-Final top off (if needed) and level check with the trans temp in specified range (86* to no higher than 122*) and the frame leveled out with the jack again. Try not to get scalded by the cat while checking.
Measure amount that came out and note the amount you put in so you know you’re close to the original level. Good for added peace of mind if you’re a first timer.
It all sounds intimidating at first but when you actually work through the steps in your head you can see how simple it actually is.
oh and while we are at it, the diffs and transfer case could be done too.
FYI, HPL is running a 20% off deal (have to add to cart for discount). ~$13.50 a quart is cheaper than you can get the OEM fluid and this stuff is the real deal with a base oil that will perform better in both super cold and high heat conditions.
www.advlubrication.com
I may have also bought some…like 4 gallons…of their 5w50 SuperCar engine oil to try out.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
HPL Automatic Transmission fluids are made with premium synthetic base oils and additives. These fluids are extremely oxidation stable, which allows them to stand up to high temperatures in severe applications or results in extremely long life in normal applications. HPL Automatic Transmission...
www.advlubrication.com
I may have also bought some…like 4 gallons…of their 5w50 SuperCar engine oil to try out.
Great find man! Question though: We're still waiting on our tranny to be (hopefully) warrantied. Once that's replaced, we'll probably change the new tranny oil around 10-15k. So my question is, are these bottles sealed enough to still be good in upwards of 6-9 months from now?FYI, HPL is running a 20% off deal (have to add to cart for discount). ~$13.50 a quart is cheaper than you can get the OEM fluid and this stuff is the real deal with a base oil that will perform better in both super cold and high heat conditions.
View attachment 154135
Automatic Transmission Fluid
HPL Automatic Transmission fluids are made with premium synthetic base oils and additives. These fluids are extremely oxidation stable, which allows them to stand up to high temperatures in severe applications or results in extremely long life in normal applications. HPL Automatic Transmission...
I may have also bought some…like 4 gallons…of their 5w50 SuperCar engine oil to try out.
Yeah. Just give the bottles a shake before installing and you’ll be fine.
They have a seal under the cap then? I hated that Amsoil didnt have a seal
No seals. Think Red Line is the only one of the boutique brands that bothers with those.
If it makes you feel better the leftovers I have are over a year old and I probably won’t be using it until later next year. Some of it is out of the bottles and just sitting in the pump reservoir too.
You must have a good trick for storing them? All my oil from 1-2 years old is very watery in my garage cabinet(s).
Not really. Just in my garage. It is climate controlled though.
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Oil and tranny fluids have a decent shelf life. If you can keep it in the house you probably can get 5 years! I have kept Amsoil in the garage for 3-4 years. It still looked good. (10w-30 for the lawn equipment and 0w-16 for my dad's car...so that I can do the work for him when he stops by) Brake Fluid does not last long. Max 12 months if factory sealed. If it is opened. maybe 2 weeks.
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Did the oil change, used blauparts oil kit, have put over 400 miles on the truck since it was done, its running great.. so far 
Must be nice!
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