Transmission (lack of) maintenance and failures…tip of the iceberg?

[OnTheReel]

What would be the procedure to drain and fill? I ask because Mopar's transmission service procedure has a ton of steps.

-Remove skid plate for access.

-Park on surface that will have the frame rails sitting close to level (since the procedure wants the truck on a level hoist). I fine tune that with a floor jack on the pumpkin.

-Crack fill plug loose to make sure it’s not frozen. Don’t remove fill plug all the way until you’ve drained the trans a bit, unless you want a stinky ATF bath.

-Remove drain plug. Let it drain awhile, ideally into a clean pan with markings to measure the amount you get out. I use this pan here:

Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout - Walmart.com

Buy Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

-Re-install drain plug. Begin static fill. Pump new fluid in until it trickles back out of the fill hole. This is the pump I use:

https://a.co/d/b8uu8Pk

Can fill with hand pump instead but it takes awhile longer.

-Start engine and fill again until it trickles out.

-Close fill plug, remove jack.

-Put in reverse, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Put in drive, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Drive a bit up the driveway and shift into second. Back to neutral, raise RPM to 2k for 5 seconds. Basically mimicking their procedure on the ground instead of lift.

-Final top off (if needed) and level check with the trans temp in specified range (86* to no higher than 122*) and the frame leveled out with the jack again. Try not to get scalded by the cat while checking.

Measure amount that came out and note the amount you put in so you know you’re close to the original level. Good for added peace of mind if you’re a first timer.

It all sounds intimidating at first but when you actually work through the steps in your head you can see how simple it actually is.

 

[OnTheReel]

@OnTheReel I see the same ZF stake on mine and the Germany origin on the window sticker so they must have got this batch straight from ZF, or a Stellantis plant over in Germany. It would appear that the 8HP75 is still made in Kokomo, IN and the base TorqueFlite (8HP40?) being manufactured between the 2.

Is that analysis of the first oil change? If so how many miles? Hopefully that iron is from the gears and not the steels.

Yeah, that was the factory fill after 25,558 miles specifically. High iron wasn’t unexpected and isn’t unusual for samples I’ve seen from the 8HP. But goes to show just how quickly the “lifetime fluid”gets heavily contaminated. I wouldn’t see harm in doing the first change sooner even…

 

[R6Snods]

Yeah, that was the factory fill after 25,558 miles specifically. High iron wasn’t unexpected and isn’t unusual for samples I’ve seen from the 8HP. But goes to show just how quickly the “lifetime fluid”gets heavily contaminated. I wouldn’t see harm in doing the first change sooner even…

Ya thats not bad for the factory fill. I should have sent mine off to see what it showed because it was glittery and gritty. Hell even the current fluid is gritty. Makes me think there should be an external filter with more than just some fiberglass to keep chunks out on this set up.

 

[RAMTRX22]

Im almost at 30k. Thank you for all of the information. Ordering fluid and a sample kit tonight .

 

[LouDogg]

-Remove skid plate for access.

-Park on surface that will have the frame rails sitting close to level (since the procedure wants the truck on a level hoist). I fine tune that with a floor jack on the pumpkin.

-Crack fill plug loose to make sure it’s not frozen. Don’t remove fill plug all the way until you’ve drained the trans a bit, unless you want a stinky ATF bath.

-Remove drain plug. Let it drain awhile, ideally into a clean pan with markings to measure the amount you get out. I use this pan here:

Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout - Walmart.com

Buy Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

-Re-install drain plug. Begin static fill. Pump new fluid in until it trickles back out of the fill hole. This is the pump I use:

https://a.co/d/b8uu8Pk

Can fill with hand pump instead but it takes awhile longer.

-Start engine and fill again until it trickles out.

-Close fill plug, remove jack.

-Put in reverse, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Put in drive, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Drive a bit up the driveway and shift into second. Back to neutral, raise RPM to 2k for 5 seconds. Basically mimicking their procedure on the ground instead of lift.

-Final top off (if needed) and level check with the trans temp in specified range (86* to no higher than 122*) and the frame leveled out with the jack again. Try not to get scalded by the cat while checking.

Measure amount that came out and note the amount you put in so you know you’re close to the original level. Good for added peace of mind if you’re a first timer.

It all sounds intimidating at first but when you actually work through the steps in your head you can see how simple it actually is.

Thank you! Seems pretty straight forward.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

-Remove skid plate for access.

-Park on surface that will have the frame rails sitting close to level (since the procedure wants the truck on a level hoist). I fine tune that with a floor jack on the pumpkin.

-Crack fill plug loose to make sure it’s not frozen. Don’t remove fill plug all the way until you’ve drained the trans a bit, unless you want a stinky ATF bath.

-Remove drain plug. Let it drain awhile, ideally into a clean pan with markings to measure the amount you get out. I use this pan here:

Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout - Walmart.com

Buy Hyper Tough 7-Quart Automotive Drain Pan with Built-In Scale and Spout at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

-Re-install drain plug. Begin static fill. Pump new fluid in until it trickles back out of the fill hole. This is the pump I use:

https://a.co/d/b8uu8Pk

Can fill with hand pump instead but it takes awhile longer.

-Start engine and fill again until it trickles out.

-Close fill plug, remove jack.

-Put in reverse, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Put in drive, hold 5 seconds with brakes. Drive a bit up the driveway and shift into second. Back to neutral, raise RPM to 2k for 5 seconds. Basically mimicking their procedure on the ground instead of lift.

-Final top off (if needed) and level check with the trans temp in specified range (86* to no higher than 122*) and the frame leveled out with the jack again. Try not to get scalded by the cat while checking.

Measure amount that came out and note the amount you put in so you know you’re close to the original level. Good for added peace of mind if you’re a first timer.

It all sounds intimidating at first but when you actually work through the steps in your head you can see how simple it actually is.

PHENOMENAL WRITE-UP!

Just a few follow-ups:

• Is that 86 to 122F? I never see those temps unless the truck is ice cold lol
• I havent been down there to look but are the drain and fill plugs on driver or pass side? Are they obvious like diff plugs?
• How do you shift into 2nd in the driveway? Paddle or stick? Ive never tried to shift the truck into a higher gear while not moving but I assume it’s possible?
• On the final top-off, are you basically just looking to have the fluid right where its starting to weep out the fill port on level ground?

 

[R6Snods]

PHENOMENAL WRITE-UP!

Is that 86 to 122F? I never see those temps unless the truck is ice cold lol

I havent been down there to look but are the drain and fill plugs on driver or pass side? Are they obvious like diff plugs?

How do you shift into 2nd in the driveway? Paddle or stick? Ive never tried to shift the truck into a higher gear while not moving but I assume it’s possible?

On the final top-off, are you basically just looking to have the fluid right where its starting to weep out the fill port on level ground?

Drain plugs are on the passenger side and the are 8mm Hex if memory serves correctly.

Use the paddles or move the shifter over to manual and do it that way, it will shift into 2nd.

The transmission pan/frame should be the level part which mine was on level ground. I'm stock so I wish you the best of luck on yours lol. Yes the fluid should trickle out after you've done all the shifting and the temp is below 122*F. The couple of times i did this its needed about 1/4 quart more.

A couple of tips:

Be carefull when doing the running level check. The plugs are right next to the exhaust and it gets hot, quick. I'd recommend some sort of thermal sleeve or leather glove when messing with the fill plug. A fluid pump with clear tubing also makes this much easier when adding fluid, just don't let it touch the exhaust.

If you're going to replace the filter or otherwise drop the pan, I would HIGHLY suggest replacing all of the pan bolts. Blauparts offers them separate, but you can also find them at Ace hardware or probably any other hardware store. Go slow and use a low torque impact driver to break them loose. They are M6x19mm aluminum torq's bolts that love to snap if you look at them wrong, especially when you're torquing them back down. I replaced with stainless and have had no issues with them so far. The torque spec for aluminum is 4Nm+45*(35in.lbs); Steel is 10Nm (88 in.lbs).

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Drain plugs are on the passenger side and the are 8mm Hex if memory serves correctly.

Use the paddles or move the shifter over to manual and do it that way, it will shift into 2nd.

The transmission pan/frame should be the level part which mine was on level ground. I'm stock so I wish you the best of luck on yours lol. Yes the fluid should trickle out after you've done all the shifting and the temp is below 122*F. The couple of times i did this its needed about 1/4 quart more.

A couple of tips:

Be carefull when doing the running level check. The plugs are right next to the exhaust and it gets hot, quick. I'd recommend some sort of thermal sleeve or leather glove when messing with the fill plug. A fluid pump with clear tubing also makes this much easier when adding fluid, just don't let it touch the exhaust.

If you're going to replace the filter or otherwise drop the pan, I would HIGHLY suggest replacing all of the pan bolts. Blauparts offers them separate, but you can also find them at Ace hardware or probably any other hardware store. Go slow and use a low torque impact driver to break them loose. They are M6x19mm aluminum torq's bolts that love to snap if you look at them wrong, especially when you're torquing them back down. I replaced with stainless and have had no issues with them so far. The torque spec for aluminum is 4Nm+45*(35in.lbs); Steel is 10Nm (88 in.lbs).

Great tips man! Thermal sleeves ordered! https://amzn.to/47GouYg

• I dont think i've even seen an aluminum bolt before lol. I snap stainless steel bolts sometimes so i'm definitely going to need to look at the upgrade. Any chance you have a link or remember where you got the stainless ones? Are they M6x1.0 or 0.75 pitch?
• I just looked and there's a plug on the passenger side and 1 on the bottom of the pan. I assume the bottom of the pan is the drain? Only reason i ask is b/c the plug on the passenger side is not as high up as i would've expected it to be.
• Any idea what the torque specs are on the drain & fill plugs?

 

[OnTheReel]

Great tips man! Thermal sleeves ordered! https://amzn.to/47GouYg

• I dont think i've even seen an aluminum bolt before lol. I snap stainless steel bolts sometimes so i'm definitely going to need to look at the upgrade. Any chance you have a link or remember where you got the stainless ones? Are they M6x1.0 or 0.75 pitch?
• I just looked and there's a plug on the passenger side and 1 on the bottom of the pan. I assume the bottom of the pan is the drain? Only reason i ask is b/c the plug on the passenger side is not as high up as i would've expected it to be.
• Any idea what the torque specs are on the drain & fill plugs?

Drain is 9 N-m and fill is 35 N-m. Just get the whole pan kit, comes with all new bolts, new fill plug, etc. Wasn’t really worth it to me sourcing everything separately.

The fill plug isn’t very high but keep in mind we fill with the engine running and thus the ATF circulating. When the truck is off the actual “full” level is well above the fill plug. Why I said not to pull it out all the way before draining or you may make a mess.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Drain is 9 N-m and fill is 35 N-m. Just get the whole pan kit, comes with all new bolts, new fill plug, etc. Wasn’t really worth it to me sourcing everything separately.

The fill plug isn’t very high but keep in mind we fill with the engine running and thus the ATF circulating. When the truck is off the actual “full” level is well above the fill plug. Why I said not to pull it out all the way before draining or you may make a mess.

Any particular torque sequence for the pan?

The kit i've seen doesnt come with the bolts. Which kit did you get that came with em?

https://www.blauparts.com/ram-1500-trx-transmission-fluid-atf-change-kit-2021-2022-8-speed.html?srsltid=AfmBOoo51IoaKHgNPRDoEJYS16w37kwUtTBCBv-Cy-K4NTrnztk1hBhD

 

[R6Snods]

Great tips man! Thermal sleeves ordered! https://amzn.to/47GouYg

• I dont think i've even seen an aluminum bolt before lol. I snap stainless steel bolts sometimes so i'm definitely going to need to look at the upgrade. Any chance you have a link or remember where you got the stainless ones? Are they M6x1.0 or 0.75 pitch?
• I just looked and there's a plug on the passenger side and 1 on the bottom of the pan. I assume the bottom of the pan is the drain? Only reason i ask is b/c the plug on the passenger side is not as high up as i would've expected it to be.
• Any idea what the torque specs are on the drain & fill plugs?

I believe they are 1.0 thread pitch. I took an old one with me and matched it that way. The googles says m6x1.0mm so take that for what its worth.

Thats correct, the drain plug is in the bottom of the pan with the fill plug up in the side. I thought the same thing but youre only getting rought 4-5 qts out of the 9.5 so the rest is stuck in the converter, cooler, etc.

The drain plug torque is 80 in.lbs and the fill plug torque is 26 ft.lbs Credit to @OnTheReel. https://www.ram-trx.com/threads/complete-ram-trx-torque-specs.15406/

 

[R6Snods]

Any particular torque sequence for the pan?

The kit i've seen doesnt come with the bolts. Which kit did you get that came with em?

https://www.blauparts.com/ram-1500-trx-transmission-fluid-atf-change-kit-2021-2022-8-speed.html?srsltid=AfmBOoo51IoaKHgNPRDoEJYS16w37kwUtTBCBv-Cy-K4NTrnztk1hBhD

https://www.blauparts.com/dodge-ram-jeep-transmission-pan-mounting-bolt-68261541aa-oe-supplier.html

Those are the steel ones. I just did criss-cross starting in the middle of the pan on mine.

 

[Digerati]

Hey everyone, building on the great instructions shared earlier, here is a more detailed, step-by-step guide for tackling the transmission fluid drain and fill on your TRX. The process seems intimidating because there's no dipstick, but it's very manageable if you follow the steps.

Important Notes Before You Start

• Disclaimer: This is a guide for educational purposes. You are working under a heavy vehicle and with hot fluids. Proceed at your own risk. Safety is paramount.
• Fluid Type is CRITICAL: The 8HP95 transmission in the TRX requires a very specific fluid. Use Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed ATF (Part No. 68218925AA) or a certified equivalent like ZF Lifeguard 8. Do NOT use standard ATF+4 or any other fluid.
• Drain & Fill vs. Full Service: This guide covers a drain and fill, which only replaces about 50-60% of the total fluid. A full service involves replacing the entire transmission pan, which has an integrated filter.
• Level is Everything: The entire procedure is designed to achieve the correct fluid level at a very specific temperature. This is the most important part of the job.

Tools & Supplies

• Fluid: 6-8 quarts of approved Mopar/ZF 8&9 Speed fluid (buy extra just in case)
• Safety: Jack, Jack Stands (minimum 3-ton), Wheel Chocks, Safety Glasses, Mechanic's Gloves
• Tools:
  • Socket set (for skid plate and drain/fill plugs)
  • 8mm or 10mm Allen/Hex socket (common size for the fill plug)
  • Torque wrench (in-lbs and ft-lbs)
  • Bubble Level (or a level app on your phone)
• Fluid Handling:
  • Marked Drain Pan (to measure what comes out)
  • Fluid Transfer Pump (a "bottom-fill" pump is easiest)
• Monitoring:
  • IR (Infrared) Temp Gun

Step-by-Step Procedure

Step 1: Preparation & Safety

1. Level the Truck: Park on the most level surface you have. The goal is to get the frame rails (not the body) as close to level as possible.
2. Lift & Secure: Chock the rear wheels. Use a floor jack on the front cross-member or frame to lift the front. Place jack stands securely under the frame on both sides.
3. Fine-Tune Level: Use your jack on the rear differential ("pumpkin") to lift the rear. Place jack stands. Use your level on the frame rail or transmission pan to confirm the truck is perfectly level, front-to-back and side-to-side. This is critical for an accurate fill level.
4. Access: Remove the transmission skid plate to gain access to the drain and fill plugs.

Step 2: Drain the Fluid

1. Loosen Fill Plug: Before draining anything, find the fill plug on the

side of the transmission case (it's typically an 8mm or 10mm Allen). "Crack" it loose, but do not remove it yet. This ensures you can actually refill the trans before you've drained it.

1. Position Pan: Place your marked drain pan under the drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan.
2. Drain: Remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain completely.
3. Measure: Once drained, note the exact amount of fluid in your marked pan. This will be your target for the initial refill.
4. Reinstall Drain Plug: Clean the drain plug and reinstall it. The plastic pan's plug has a very low torque spec: ~8 Nm (71 in-lbs). It is very easy to strip. Be gentle.

Step 3: Static Fill (Engine OFF)

1. Remove Fill Plug: Now, remove the fill plug you loosened earlier.
2. Pump Fluid: Using your fluid transfer pump, pump in new, approved fluid.
3. Fill to Trickle: Continue pumping until fluid begins to trickle back out of the fill hole.
4. Let it Sit: Wait for the trickle to slow to a drip. You've now filled it to the correct "static" level. Do NOT install the fill plug yet.

Step 4: Engine-On Fill & Circulation

1. Safety Check: Double-check that the truck is secure on the jack stands and all tools and body parts are clear of the wheels, driveshafts, and exhaust.
2. Start Engine: With the fill plug still open, get in the truck and start the engine. Let it idle in Park.
3. Refill: Immediately (and safely) get back under the truck. The fluid level will have dropped as the transmission pump filled the internals.
4. Fill to Trickle (Again): With the engine still idling, continue pumping new fluid into the fill hole until it once again begins to trickle out.
5. Install Fill Plug: Once it's trickling, reinstall the fill plug temporarily (hand-tight is fine). You will be removing it one last time.

Step 5: Cycle the Transmission

This step circulates the new fluid through the entire system, including the valve body and torque converter.

1. Stay Secure: Remain in the driver's seat with your foot firmly on the brake. The truck is still on jack stands.
2. Run Through Gears:
   • Shift to Reverse and hold for 5 seconds.
   • Shift to Drive and hold for 5 seconds.
   • Shift to Neutral.
   • While in Neutral, briefly raise the engine RPM to ~2,000 for 5 seconds.
3. Return to Park: Shift the transmission back into Park and let the engine idle.

Step 6: Final Level Check (The Most Important Step)

1. Monitor Temp: The truck must remain level and idling in Park.
2. Use your IR temp gun to point at the transmission pan. The final level check MUST be done when the transmission fluid temperature is between 86°F and 122°F (30°C - 50°C). Do not let it get hotter.
3. Safety Warning: Be EXTREMELY careful. The catalytic converters are right next to the transmission and will be dangerously hot.
4. Check Level: Once the temp is in range, get under the truck and remove the fill plug one last time.
   • IF a steady, small stream trickles out: The level is PERFECT.
   • IF no fluid comes out: It is underfilled. Slowly pump in more fluid until a small trickle appears.
   • IF fluid gushes out: It is overfilled. Let it drain until it slows to a small trickle.
5. Final Install: Once you have a steady trickle in the correct temp range, reinstall the fill plug.
6. Torque Fill Plug: The fill plug has a higher torque spec, typically around 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs). Tighten it securely.

Step 7: Clean Up

1. Shut Down: Turn off the engine.
2. Inspect: Wipe down the fill and drain plugs and check for any leaks.
3. Reinstall: Reinstall the skid plate.
4. Lower Truck: Safely lower the truck off the jack stands.
5. Peace of Mind: Compare the amount of fluid you drained (Step 2) with the total amount you pumped in. They should be very close.

It looks like a lot, but as the original post said, once you break it down, it's a very logical process. The key is BEING LEVEL and CHECKING AT THE RIGHT TEMP.

 

[OnTheReel]

Any particular torque sequence for the pan?

The kit i've seen doesnt come with the bolts. Which kit did you get that came with em?

https://www.blauparts.com/ram-1500-trx-transmission-fluid-atf-change-kit-2021-2022-8-speed.html?srsltid=AfmBOoo51IoaKHgNPRDoEJYS16w37kwUtTBCBv-Cy-K4NTrnztk1hBhD

68261504AA

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

@OnTheReel your HPL link wasnt working for some reason.

Is this the correct stuff: https://www.advlubrication.com/coll...tic-transmission-fluid?variant=31352811651095

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

68261504AAView attachment 153715

Where'd you buy from? Is that a separate piece that has the gasket on it? How does that install into the pan?

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

What are your guys thoughts on the Blauparts fluid/kit? Seems like it would save about $100-150 vs. buying the fluid and pan separate. Blauparts' kit has a new tranny filter & mating gasket (but you retain your original pan). I imagine it must be somewhat simple to swap the trans filter to the original pan?

https://www.blauparts.com/ram-1500-trx-transmission-fluid-atf-change-kit-2021-2022-8-speed.html?srsltid=AfmBOopvdUh7PA_ZR3qDk-t4IB04dswYWcOYxasvSsuPfvNrW36MGz-_

 

[R6Snods]

I used the Ravenol fluid in the Blauparts kit this last oil change. I don't really have enough miles on it to give it a real review other than I've had no issue with it so far. When I was changing my thermostat out on the mishimoto unit it appeared to be in good health with about 8k miles on it. There was discussion in another thread about it being marketed as a synthetic but being closer to a semi-synthetic type oil, if that matters to you one way or another. I think the more important thing here is it's less about what fluid you put in and more about getting the old burnt/dirty oil out. As long as it its close to or meets the Chrysler spec and is similar in viscosity to the factory 8&9 speed fluid. All the oils @OnTheReel mentioned in the first post meet that criteria.

The pan and filter comes off easy. No RTV, no stuck o-rings, nothing. Just drop the pan, pull the filter off, clean everything up and put the new filter and pan gasket on. The pan deforms to the mating surface so I consider it reusable, pending its not been damaged prior to pulling it. The worst part of the job is trying not to take a bath in the residual oil that's left in the pan when you pull it off. The difficulty of this is dependent upon how many beers deep you are and is not linear.

 

[ONEMEANTRX]

this is on my todo list 20000 miles and I want it done ordered new filter too amsoil oil atf blue top
I will will drain and refill 3 times to get the fluids as good as I can should help a lot do it earlier than later....

 

[OnTheReel]

@OnTheReel your HPL link wasnt working for some reason.

Is this the correct stuff: https://www.advlubrication.com/coll...tic-transmission-fluid?variant=31352811651095

Yes, but the CC (cold climate) version is what I am using. You definitely don’t need the cold weather advantages of it down in FL, but the PAO base oil in the CC is just better all around.

BITOG15 is a 15% off promo code on their site for anyone interested. I’m not affiliated but HPL is a great company. Very open and responsive to their customers and will even custom blend an oil to your specs if you ever want to get real dorky. I might know somebody like that…

Anyway, the Ravenol should perform well too. As far as performance I’d say it’s closer to a lateral move from the Mopar juice. On a mostly stock truck should be just fine. If I needed more insurance I’d upgrade a bit.

I am always happy to share the products I use, my rationale behind using them and the results they give me. But the point of this thread is not to tell people what to use. Just to be proactive and do the service! Because a lot of people are ruining $5,000 transmissions and it’s only going to get worse. And the shittiest part is that most don’t even know they’ve done any wrong because Ram’s non-maintenance schedule leads them right off the cliff.