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I did, probably 1 month ago from all places Crutchfield. But so far so good, no issues here to complain about.
*knocks on wood somewhere*
*knocks on wood somewhere*
Would you mind sharing the options selected for that MTI subwoofer box?With the replaced speakers in the front door.View attachment 41895
The rear door.View attachment 41896
The 1" in the dash.View attachment 41901
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And the center channel 3" full range speaker.
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On to the subs. I went with a MTI sub box stage 2. I will say this thing is great, looks custom, and they matched the stitching and vinal very well. Also added a nice TRX to the front of the box. This let me put in two JL Audio 13TW5's. Could have done 10"s but figured might as well do it now so I don't wonder if I should have later on.
Here are the shallow subs.
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Front of the sub box, don't worry that tan wrapping paper comes off.
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A shot of it installed.
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Now I did lose access to the bins below, but that's ok as I have a retrax Pro cover and most of the stuff will go in the back anywise.
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Next up was running power, which was all carried from the battery with a single 4 gauge wire, I asked was this enough and the answer was yes this is a very efficient amp(s), much higher than what I had used in the past and most definitely more than what I used as a young man. View attachment 41905
These is the custom amp installation boards in the place where the factory sub was installed prior.
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Here are the two amps(with built-in DSP's). First up the the Helix 12 channel MK2 amp. This runs all the speakers, the 6 side speakers upfront, the center channel, two rear door coaxials, and the two overhead rear speakers for a total of 11 out of the 12 channels. Each channel gets 75 Watts @4ohms.
And a Helix P ONE running the subs in a perfectly matched 1 ohm x 1,500 Watts.
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This is how it looks all cleaned up, nice and tidy. View attachment 41908
Needing somewhere to place the subcontrol and profile control knob we picked this, which actually fits perfectly. Though we did have to cut the dash (not a fan of doing anything too permanent) but didn't have much of a choice and it turned out great.
Knob off.
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Zebras aren’t horses take my word for it. They are mean and vicious animals and have zero in common other than the physical look less the stripes .I have zero issues with hunting but why would anyone hunt zebra? Other that needing to cull a heard it seems about as pointless as stalking down your neighbors Arabian.
As a on topic note, I talked to PAC about the module and they think the aux input is kept analog through the head unit to their module.
Well hopefully they taste better.Zebras aren’t horses take my word for it. They are mean and vicious animals and have zero in common other than the physical look less the stripes .
So my hunting rules are pretty simple, I only go after to harvest the alpha male that has been pushed out from the herd and is no longer contributing. That rejected alpha male now is eating resources that takes away from a healthy herd, a Kuna Matata.
This is why hunting is one of the top 10 revenue sources in Africa and they super regulate it so a herd of any animal is never depleted and is maintained at a highest healthy level!
Just clarification, what are those vents/shutters for on the back wall inside the cab?Let me start off by saying the HK system was nothing less than unimpressive and only needed to go about 10 minutes hearing a few different flavors of music before knowing this wasn't going to work. I honestly was hoping this wasn't going to be the case and be a 19 speaker system would mean something, but it didn't. So here we go.
Full disclaimer, I used to do love doing car audio as a youth but I'm older and time is money so this build was fully done by the folks at Rudy's auto in Kalispell MT. Shout out to Mike who I started by providing my requirements for the system and letting him do his magic.
In other builds I have had, lastly being my '16 Challenger Hellcat which was a full focal build with a high output SPL 12" sub powered by Arc Audio amps and DSP. Loved it but we wanted to step this one up a bit. And knowing that SQ was key here vs. SPL's we needed a solid room dead of vibrations, road noise and any other unwanted contaminants.
My ask was simple, clean (no seeing anything extra if peeked at from the outside) and loud when I wanted it with no ear scratching or distortion. Give me more headroom than I would ever need.
So out comes everything and start the sound deadening foundation.
Start with a good washing and drying.
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Next comes some wrap to protect it from accidental damage.
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Everything was stripped out, front and back.
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Now it's time to start rolling out the carpet.
Here's the cab pretty much done.
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And can't forget about the doors. It was important to not only do the outside metal but the backside of the door panels too. When this door closes it makes a serious THUMP.
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Now that we have them rattles taken care of on to the installation of the speakers.
For this build we went with BLAM Audio. I had Focals, but the guy behind these speakers was a Focal engineer and want to do something different and started this company.
I wanted a full active setup so we decided on the Multix Line with a 6" in the door, 2" in the door, 1" in the dash, and a 3" in the center channel. We originally had planned for a 3" in both the door and dash, but without serious cutting of metal the 3"s in the door would not fit. And to match that we ended up with 6" coaxial in the back to match the fronts. Lastly, we did tap into the two stock speakers in the roof for a very very slight filler sound. We debated this a few times, but he argued against installing new ones as the volume wouldn't be enough to warrant the spend for matching 1"s. We decided we could easily add them later if I deemed I wanted them.
This is the stock tweeters, which were in the top part of the door, dash and center compared to the 3" I replaced them with. FYI they get to 19 speakers because they count each of them as two since it technically has two speakers in it.
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Stock door up front with 6x9's, which they used all around, and those 1" tweets.
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To equalize pressure when you close doors. They are also necessary for the HVAC to work correctly. You’d get nothing out of the blower without them.Just clarification, what are those vents/shutters for on the back wall inside the cab?
They equalize pressure. If you slam the door or blast the AC for example, they function to let air flow.Just clarification, what are those vents/shutters for on the back wall inside the cab?
in the picture, they appeared removed orTo equalize pressure when you close doors. They are also necessary for the HVAC to work correctly. You’d get nothing out of the blower without them.
They aren't sealed off based on the pictures. It shouldn't be an issue.in the picture, they appeared removed or
blocked Though. Thats going to effect the pressure and HVAC like you’re saying right?
As others have said, they allow pressure equalization and air flow though the cab......BUT.....Just clarification, what are those vents/shutters for on the back wall inside the cab?
Amp board is in front of the one, but air can probably still flow behind it. Other one is totally open. Keep in mind, the carpeted panel and seats somewhat block them when assembled anyway. There’s a slot on the bottom of the carpet panel to allow air through, but it’s not a straight shot so obstructions probably don’t affect much. Just can’t completely get rid of them. Some have removed one and left the other but I think with the AC already being borderline in summer, it’s not something I’d mess with. It is a shame though, lots of noise leakage through the vents.in the picture, they appeared removed or
blocked Though. Thats going to effect the pressure and HVAC like you’re saying right?
gotcha. Yeah, it looks like one of his is removed. Curious if it was needed or if they could have left it some how. I ask because I recently had my system installed and due to a custom amp board, they removed one of the vents. I seriously considered figuring out a way to reinstall it.Amp board is in front of the one, but air can probably still flow behind it. Other one is totally open. Keep in mind, the carpeted panel and seats somewhat block them when assembled anyway. There’s a slot on the bottom of the carpet panel to allow air through, but it’s not a straight shot so obstructions probably don’t affect much. Just can’t completely get rid of them. Some have removed one and left the other but I think with the AC already being borderline in summer, it’s not something I’d mess with. It is a shame though, lots of noise leakage through the vents.
EDIT: looks like one of his is totally removed…
Where there’s a will, there’s a way. If you really wanted to add it back in, there’s a ton of room/ depth for a second amp board on the driver’s side where the Etorque battery lives on normal Rams. That’s what I wound up doing. But it would be a lot of wiring to redo if you already have the system done.gotcha. Yeah, it looks like one of his is removed. Curious if it was needed or if they could have left it some how. I ask because I recently had my system installed and due to a custom amp board, they removed one of the vents. I seriously considered figuring out a way to reinstall it.
True true. I might add more sounds kind along the back wall like you. They just did the floors on the back.Where there’s a will, there’s a way. If you really wanted to add it back in, there’s a ton of room/ depth for a second amp board on the driver’s side where the Etorque battery lives on normal Rams. That’s what I wound up doing. But it would be a lot of wiring to redo if you already have the system done.View attachment 54758
Correct, they weren't sealed for all the reasons you already called out. Figured I should confirm it in case anyone was still wondering.They aren't sealed off based on the pictures. It shouldn't be an issue.
That CH42 harness is required for 2022+ and would used instead of the included harness in the AP4-CH41. The reason being is the one that comes with the CH41 has connectors for Ucconnect 4. The CH42 harness has the connectors for UC5.For those running the AP4-CH41 R.2, have you added or planning on adding the AP4 Extension harness? I wonder what changes would come with adding this to an already installed AP4-CH41 R.2.
APHCH42
Plug and plug solution for UConnect5 that allows you to use an AmpPRO with most Chrysler vehicles. Must be used with AP4-CH41 (CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO). Benefits Simplifies amplifier installation Prevents the need for summing and DSP devices Provides factory sound system upgrade solution...catalog.pac-audio.com