RIPATUNED 800

720 - 110 = 610 When have you seen a baseline TRX pull 610 stock? I'm really not understanding your math or what your getting at or what the purpose of this argument is. Would you explain? Do your very best to be as condescending as you can again
On this forum… 🤦‍♂️ Which you would know if you did an ounce of research.


While dyno numbers vary the bulk of TRX owners have seen 570-580 AWHP or 605-615 RWHP (front shaft disconnected). Others have mentioned that in this thread twice two…or did you just not read their posts?
 
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Your only reading what you want to see. Did you miss the point where the calculation assumes that the tune is accurate and were making an assumption that after doing hundreds of TRX's Ripa would most likely have it correct or at least very close to correct.
Again I'm posting to help the forum member's make decisions on the ripa 800 kit purchase by giving my first hand experience with this particular product. What are you adding to this to make a positive statement?
Honestly would you like me to give you my phone number so you can just rant stupidity directly to me and not in front of the forum members?
Stop it already
Only one of us is ranting stupidity… talking about how “boost is boost” and not understanding how RWHP is different from AWHP, etc etc.
 
Only one of us is ranting stupidity… talking about how “boost is boost” and not understanding how RWHP is different from AWHP, etc etc.
Your right, you have been right all along, your always right, right , right, right. Ya happy!! You win :) Have a nice day
 
Just wrapped up install of the Whipple Gen V 3.0L on my Ram TRX. Hope to be able to hit the dyno in the next day or so to see what numbers we are putting down with E85 and a few other little extras. Was at 815 rwhp before the Whipple, will be excited to see the increase!!!

Big shout out to Steven Ripa @ Ripatuned and his team there for all of the support and steady flow of parts for the build. Could not get it done without the continued customer support and knowledge they have to offer. They really take care of their customers and work hard to continue improving every day!!!

I only see one question in this post, asking about the dyno numbers as a comparison. I know I don't have a dyno comparison from stock on my truck specifically, but I will have a dyno comparison soon where I have gone from the Ripa 900 on E85 to the Whipple 3.0 on E85. After that I will be able to give you a comparison from the Whipple to a Whipple with twin turbos on E85. Maybe not what you are looking for, but its numbers and all that I will have to offer.

Keep in mind that I will have a boost controller and will be keeping the boost moderate since I am working off the stock engine internals. You can turn the boost up and blow the engine to the moon and back, but I am not trying to blow the engine. I will be building an engine to stand behind the Whipple and TTRX from Ripatuned in the near future. HP doesn't happen over night, it takes planning and work to get there if you want to keep it.
What's a boost controller cost? How is it controlled? On/off switch or dial that you can adjust.
 
Just wrapped up install of the Whipple Gen V 3.0L on my Ram TRX. Hope to be able to hit the dyno in the next day or so to see what numbers we are putting down with E85 and a few other little extras. Was at 815 rwhp before the Whipple, will be excited to see the increase!!!

Big shout out to Steven Ripa @ Ripatuned and his team there for all of the support and steady flow of parts for the build. Could not get it done without the continued customer support and knowledge they have to offer. They really take care of their customers and work hard to continue improving every day!!!

I only see one question in this post, asking about the dyno numbers as a comparison. I know I don't have a dyno comparison from stock on my truck specifically, but I will have a dyno comparison soon where I have gone from the Ripa 900 on E85 to the Whipple 3.0 on E85. After that I will be able to give you a comparison from the Whipple to a Whipple with twin turbos on E85. Maybe not what you are looking for, but its numbers and all that I will have to offer.

Keep in mind that I will have a boost controller and will be keeping the boost moderate since I am working off the stock engine internals. You can turn the boost up and blow the engine to the moon and back, but I am not trying to blow the engine. I will be building an engine to stand behind the Whipple and TTRX from Ripatuned in the near future. HP doesn't happen over night, it takes planning and work to get there if you want to keep it.
Just curious. How much extra boost can you see putting with the TTRX + whipple in that you could not achieve with the whipple alone?
 
The one I have ran me about $700. There are many different ones on the market if you Google them. I chose to go with one I can control electronically and is part of a package through Ripatuned.
 
Just curious. How much extra boost can you see putting with the TTRX + whipple in that you could not achieve with the whipple alone?
It’s not about the boost alone, it’s more about power/torque when I want it. I do a lot of racing off-road and I want to have the power instantly as well as top end, so basically all the way through.

Supercharger runs out on top end and turbos have to spool up.

I only started with the TTRX set up. But my blower locked up about 3 weeks after I ordered the TTRX, so I went ahead and upgraded to the Whipple. Keep in mind that running 10 lbs of boost with a 2.4L blower vs 10 lbs of boost with a 3.0L blower is completely different amount of power coming out the other end of things.

I will not be running either of these components maxed out. The idea is to run them moderately and have less stress on both of them and still be able to walk away from most anything on the street.

I’m not an expert, this is all experimental and I will obviously break stuff along the way, that I am fully prepared for and already planning for.

To answer your question, I expect to be in the low to mid 20’s on boost. Only time and tuning will tell what we end up with.
 
It’s not about the boost alone, it’s more about power/torque when I want it. I do a lot of racing off-road and I want to have the power instantly as well as top end, so basically all the way through.

Supercharger runs out on top end and turbos have to spool up.

I only started with the TTRX set up. But my blower locked up about 3 weeks after I ordered the TTRX, so I went ahead and upgraded to the Whipple. Keep in mind that running 10 lbs of boost with a 2.4L blower vs 10 lbs of boost with a 3.0L blower is completely different amount of power coming out the other end of things.

I will not be running either of these components maxed out. The idea is to run them moderately and have less stress on both of them and still be able to walk away from most anything on the street.

I’m not an expert, this is all experimental and I will obviously break stuff along the way, that I am fully prepared for and already planning for.

To answer your question, I expect to be in the low to mid 20’s on boost. Only time and tuning will tell what we end up with.
Spot on. I’m really curious to see how that compound setup works. The VE on the GenV 3.0L whipple looks fantastic and suggests it can almost perform at the same level as the 4.5L. Which turbos are you going with?

For anyone that cares btw, here is a simple discussion on CFM versus PSI and why blower displacement matters to HP rather than just boost…


A good example of this in the making can actually be seen looking at the dyno charts posted by Ripa. The stock HP curve (red) is linear all the way to redline showing that the blower is not being overspun. It can provide the CFM demanded by the motor efficiently without over heating the charge. The blue curve is their 800 kit which is 18.6k blower RPM and maxing out the “efficient” range on the hardware (blower and cam profile) where the HP curve plateaus at redline. The green curve actually shows a knee over in HP as the blower is further over-spun and the hairdryer effect has kicked in. I’m guessing the boost level on this run might also have been decreasing in the upper RPM range as the blower just couldn’t keep up. This is where compound setups can help a lot by compensating for the lack of top end capacity.

7079D67F-104C-496D-962B-7150C4C27D39.webp
 
Spot on. I’m really curious to see how that compound setup works. The VE on the GenV 3.0L whipple looks fantastic and suggests it can almost perform at the same level as the 4.5L. Which turbos are you going with?

For anyone that cares btw, here is a simple discussion on CFM versus PSI and why blower displacement matters to HP rather than just boost…


A good example of this in the making can actually be seen looking at the dyno charts posted by Ripa. The stock HP curve (red) is linear all the way to redline showing that the blower is not being overspun. It can provide the CFM demanded by the motor efficiently without over heating the charge. The blue curve is their 800 kit which is 18.6k blower RPM and maxing out the “efficient” range on the hardware (blower and cam profile) where the HP curve plateaus at redline. The green curve actually shows a knee over in HP as the blower is further over-spun and the hairdryer effect has kicked in. I’m guessing the boost level on this run might also have been decreasing in the upper RPM range as the blower just couldn’t keep up. This is where compound setups can help a lot by compensating for the lack of top end capacity.

View attachment 46272
Great info, thanks for the share.

As you see the gain in power/torque on the dyno sheet, you also see that it drops speed drastically from where it should be. This is exactly what I am trying to avoid. The combination of that and power band/curve for what I do with the truck is what works for me. This is not what others are looking for. This is what works for me.
 
Great info, thanks for the share.

As you see the gain in power/torque on the dyno sheet, you also see that it drops speed drastically from where it should be. This is exactly what I am trying to avoid. The combination of that and power band/curve for what I do with the truck is what works for me. This is not what others are looking for. This is what works for me.
Everyone has their own purposes… completely understand.

Something else to note on Ripa’s dyno sheet for those interested is the effect of e85. Their 900 package shows the massive jump in torque down low. That is thanks to e85 and being able to run significantly more timing advance without detonation.
 
I am full E85, also know that E85 runs everything cooler when you are beating on it. It’s a must in my situation.
 
Yup, so much more forgiving.

AZ I really do appreciate your insight on here, from what I can tell you have a good grasp of the Hellcat platform.

As far as dynoing the TRX, there are many ways to do it and this is why everyone has such huge variations in power numbers. Some shops also rate in crank horsepower numbers which we simply choose to not do, sure it will sell packages.. but when you go out and race your buddy and lose.. it is always an awkward conversation lol

What we have chosen to do is utilize whp numbers similar to our Hellcat/Trackhawk packages that we have done for the past 6 years and rate them conservatively. The hardware is the same here minus the exhaust manifolds which are sub par compared to the Hellcat.

The hp95 has a 1.0 ratio in 6th gear which is the proper gear to dyno this vehicle (same as a Trackhawk or Durango Hellcat), the reason everyone is seeing wild swings in power is because you can not run this truck safely in 6th gear on the 35” tires. A tire failure on the dyno can be catastrophic and these are only rated to 118mph. 6th gear on a 35” tire will have you well over 200 mph on wheel speed which is higher than must dynos will read anyway. This you are seeing most people dyno in 4th gear which is not giving accurate numbers with additional tq multiplication.

On a roller dyno you can do the following: install wheels off a Ford pickup that are street tread closer to 30” in height or you can use a dyno like ours (dynocom hub dyno) and remove the wheels completely. We have our dyno calibrated to 2% less than a dynojet (we have literally run the cars on both dynos came day back to back and the numbers are spot on). Most people use the dynojet number as the industry standard. Our dyno puts a full load on the vehicle and we can see exactly what boost it will make in 5-6th gear on the street. This package makes right around 210kpa at sea level. As far as pulling the driveshaft, it really doesn’t have much of an effect here. We pull the transfer case motor and set the truck into dyno mode to get all of the nanny’s out of the way.

Weather/elevation always play a roll her as well but overall it is usually pretty close

my trx made 554whp bone stock with 200 miles, and after an incognito pulley it made 618. We then finished off the package with the remainder of parts (upper/injectors/tstat/tuning) and it made 734 whp on 93 octane. There is 45-50 more hp alone in the stock tune just revving the truck to 6500-6600 as the power is linear. This is why so many people love even our incognito plus tuning suite with tcm tuning.

We capped Rob’s truck at 720 whp as it literally only had about 30 miles on it when completed. It always scares me when a truck is delivered brand new and you don’t know what fuel is in it. Once he burns through the rest of that fuel and refills with a known good batch of 93, we can simply send him a final file with slightly more timing.

Hopefully that clears things up here.
 
AZ I really do appreciate your insight on here, from what I can tell you have a good grasp of the Hellcat platform.

As far as dynoing the TRX, there are many ways to do it and this is why everyone has such huge variations in power numbers. Some shops also rate in crank horsepower numbers which we simply choose to not do, sure it will sell packages.. but when you go out and race your buddy and lose.. it is always an awkward conversation lol

What we have chosen to do is utilize whp numbers similar to our Hellcat/Trackhawk packages that we have done for the past 6 years and rate them conservatively. The hardware is the same here minus the exhaust manifolds which are sub par compared to the Hellcat.

The hp95 has a 1.0 ratio in 6th gear which is the proper gear to dyno this vehicle (same as a Trackhawk or Durango Hellcat), the reason everyone is seeing wild swings in power is because you can not run this truck safely in 6th gear on the 35” tires. A tire failure on the dyno can be catastrophic and these are only rated to 118mph. 6th gear on a 35” tire will have you well over 200 mph on wheel speed which is higher than must dynos will read anyway. This you are seeing most people dyno in 4th gear which is not giving accurate numbers with additional tq multiplication.

On a roller dyno you can do the following: install wheels off a Ford pickup that are street tread closer to 30” in height or you can use a dyno like ours (dynocom hub dyno) and remove the wheels completely. We have our dyno calibrated to 2% less than a dynojet (we have literally run the cars on both dynos came day back to back and the numbers are spot on). Most people use the dynojet number as the industry standard. Our dyno puts a full load on the vehicle and we can see exactly what boost it will make in 5-6th gear on the street. This package makes right around 210kpa at sea level. As far as pulling the driveshaft, it really doesn’t have much of an effect here. We pull the transfer case motor and set the truck into dyno mode to get all of the nanny’s out of the way.

Weather/elevation always play a roll her as well but overall it is usually pretty close

my trx made 554whp bone stock with 200 miles, and after an incognito pulley it made 618. We then finished off the package with the remainder of parts (upper/injectors/tstat/tuning) and it made 734 whp on 93 octane. There is 45-50 more hp alone in the stock tune just revving the truck to 6500-6600 as the power is linear. This is why so many people love even our incognito plus tuning suite with tcm tuning.

We capped Rob’s truck at 720 whp as it literally only had about 30 miles on it when completed. It always scares me when a truck is delivered brand new and you don’t know what fuel is in it. Once he burns through the rest of that fuel and refills with a known good batch of 93, we can simply send him a final file with slightly more timing.

Hopefully that clears things up here.
Thanks for all the information… I think we all appreciate it. From the dyno you posted on here we can’t tell RPM since it is plotted against wheel speed so no clue that you are bumping RPM. That would definitely give you a few more ponies.

I know these vehicles (all hellcats for that matter) can dyno all over the place. The video posted above showed three runs with 560-605whp stock and that was same day so not even taking into account DA and thermal changes which really affect PD style blower performance and cannot be fully accounted for in the SAE correction on the dyno. Hence why MPH on the track in a decent DA is really the best tell of whp.

I’m sure you guys know what to do and your packages are well designed and executed. Your prices are fantastic as well. But the engineer / skeptic in me sees stock versus modded dyno graphs in different gears and stock numbers that are lower than any other RWD dyno numbers and I am going to question the true delta in performance. I would also disagree with you that removing the inertial mass of a set of 35” tires on the front will not affect dyno numbers and others have shown that accounts for 30-40whp on the same dyno. These values make sense too when a stock hellcat will put down 620rwhp ish only driving the rear wheels. Or, if you are saying you only used a hub dyno (wheels off) then why not dyno in 6th?

Thanks again for your time in posting this and actually having the different package plots on the same dyno was extremely helpful in truly seeing the blower performance limit and benefits of e85 which I hope helps everyone understand why folks do things like switch fuel or go to a higher CFM blower.

Side note, have you guys had any luck in cam profile changes to help reduce the restriction side of the blower (lower boost) so that you can squeeze a little more CFM out and stay linear in the power band longer?
 
I'm going to tell you if when I pick my truck up at Ripa where it's getting the 800 kit and it only has 100 extra hp I'm not going to be happy camper. I don't understand, Hennessy gets 770 RWHP out of there mammoth kit with the mag supercharger every time and gets it on pump fuel. Hennessy is not making magic. No ported anything, no exhaust work, no bells and whistles. There adding boost, fuel and tuning. Does changing to the mag supercharger do that much? Boost is boost to a certain degree? You guys are stating to get into those figures you need E85. Why such a big discrepancy?
That's not consistent with what Hennessy is doing and I can't believe there lying about there net performance figures. Why aren't you guys able to touch there numbers.
Did you do the Ripa 800 kit? How do you like it? Was it worth it?
 
Did you do the Ripa 800 kit? How do you like it? Was it worth it?
I started with the Incognito, bumped up to the 800, then the 850 and tonight I am running the R-TRX 900 setup at the track for the first time. Best ET so far has been a 10.70 @ 126mph with the R-TRX 850 setup. Absolutely loved every step of the way and would recommend any of the mentioned setups depending on wants/needs.
 
Good to know, thanks. I don't have ready access to E85 where I go so looking at the 800. What wheels/tires are you running?
 
Curious… where do you get your E85? From what I can tell there are only 3 stations in NJ that sell it. With that said, the guys from Ripatuned are 15 minutes down the road, so figure it’s worth looking into.
 
I get my e85 at a local station 10 minutes from my house. Funny thing is, there is only 2 stations in the entire state with e85 at the pumps.

Luckily it’s really good stuff that consistently tests right at 85%
 

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