FAS lower pulley...

Finally installed my F.A.S. Motorsport Predator pulley this weekend - yeah Buddy you feel the difference vs stock HP.

Kinda like getting a tatto not long after u you have a desire to do more…

Thanks to Shawn Liger for providing the “TRX Drugs” once again - I’m addicted!!!

I’d highly recommend working with Shawn for any of your needs - Thanks Shawn 👍🏻
 
The dip in the AFR is cat over temp kicking in which is killing all power. I imagine on a hot day with high IATs this will kick in after only a pull. This seems to be good for a pull or two until the PCM kicks in.
 
You guys see the new FAS lower pulley? Thoughts on being lighter then the incognito?
If anyone has a incognito or fas that has belt slippage, or just need a stronger tensioner, I have a a American Racing Solutions heavy duty tensioner that I paid $750 for with almost no use. It would take care of your issues. I paid $750 I'd sell it for $450 shipped in the US
 
The fact it doesn't say Ripatuned on it gets my attention. Clams seem way high would love to see it on a dyno vs stock.

Those with the Ripa one, besides the squeal fest, do you notice any differences?
I have had a incognito that I have taken from my first TRX and then switched to the next 2. It makes a very noticeable difference. I got a 2 psi boost. Then when you add the S&B intake it actually reduces the restriction enough it picks up another 1psi. This original pulley is now the crank pulley for my 1063rwhp build that now has 20k miles on it and like 99% of them don't squeak. You never hear from people when things go right.
I find it amazing how everyone here bitches about Ripatune that put out some defective pullies that had to be taken back but don't howl about the bullshit that RAM gives us. The 2021's had defective springs that if you didn't notice them went without a recall. The information system in all 3 of my trx's I had malfunctions. In fact the problem is so bad that when Road and Track did the side by side with the raptor R the system malfunctioned in that track ( and Ram wasn't even smart enough to be sure they didn't give them a lemon). They have NO fix for it. I just bought the truck in for reprogramming and it's worse now!! Then their knowling handing out truck with bad drive shaft. Like WTF? Than you take it to a dealer and they grease it. That's not a fix. What an absolute waist. They are knowingly doing this to all of us and nobody is bitching at them but will bitch about the supplier who came up with the first solution for there problem........ Some of you remind me of a bunch of bullies in the play yard picking on the kid that doesn't really deserve it.
 
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I have had a incognito that I have taken from my first TRX and then switched to the next 2. It makes a very noticeable difference. I got a 2 psi boost. Then when you add the S&B intake it actually reduces the restriction enough it picks up another 1psi. This original pulley is now the crank pulley for my 1063rwhp build that now has 20k miles on it and like 99% of them don't squeak. You never hear from people when things go right.
I find it amazing how everyone here bitches about Ripatune that put out some defective pullies that had to be taken back but don't howl about the bullshit that RAM gives us. The 2021's had defective springs that if you didn't notice them went without a recall. The information system in all 3 of my trx's I had malfunctions. In fact the problem is so bad that when Road and Track did the side by side with the raptor R the system malfunctioned in that track ( and Ram wasn't even smart enough to be sure they didn't give them a lemon). They have NO fix for it. I just bought the truck in for reprogramming and it's worse now!! Then their knowling handing out truck with bad drive shaft. Like WTF? Than you take it to a dealer and they grease it. That's not a fix. What an absolute waist. They are knowingly doing this to all of us and nobody is bitching at them but will bitch about the supplier who came up with the first solution for there problem........ Some of you remind me of a bunch of bullies in the play yard picking on the kid that doesn't really deserve it.
I second you on RAM and find myself very lucky as my 2021 has been flawless going in 3 years. So many report issues here and support is horrible.
I also agree with you Ripa must do right to get top times in multiple vehicles.

I personally speak from my own experience dealing with them which was horrible.
I ended up talking with Tony and he disappeared which almost made me have to drive from Long Island to NJ to get an answer.
I ended up calling the bank and filling a claim which got resolved so to me they can go fuck themselves with their pulleys, cars, shafts and everything that comes out of that place.

How do you feel about the FAS pulley?
I remember communicating with you when you first got the 850Hp package.
I see you've gone way beyond with a full engine build now.
I am interested in the pulley just am still not sure if they justify in performance.
Truck is stock with a bwoody CAI.
 
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I second you on RAM and find myself very lucky as my 2021 has been flawless going in 3 years. So many report issues here and support is horrible.
I also agree with you Ripa must do right to get top times in multiple vehicles.

I personally speak from my own experience dealing with them which was horrible.
I ended up talking with Tony and he disappeared which almost made me have to drive from Long Island to NJ to get an answer.
I ended up calling the bank and filling a claim which got resolved so to me they can go fuck themselves with their pulleys, cars, shafts and everything that comes out of that place.

How do you feel about the FAS pulley?
I remember communicating with you when you first got the 850Hp package.
I see you've gone way beyond with a full engine build now.
I am interested in the pulley just am still not sure if they justify in performance.
Truck is stock with a bwoody CAI.
Funny thing. I have heard elsewhere about the fas having squeaking also. There are reasons beyond the pulley that cause it. The members here focus on Ripa.
To contact Ripa go to facebook and contact steven ripa. Tony is just ridiculous. Steve will get things taken care of. I had some bumps with them also but the bottom line is they are far ahead of the competition when it comes to getting the power out of them. The funny part about the pulley squeak's is there are more than one reason they do that and from what I heard the tensioner after awhile keeps a memory and just doesn't function correctly. I've seen where changing the tensioner was the answer and because of the past, the blame automatically falls on Ripa. I would do that also if I didn't know better. If your not looking to squeeze every last HP out of it anyone can do a 850 kit and I see on here Dusterhoff seems to be easy to deal with. If it were that and that only I would likely choose them. As for a pulley it made a big difference. Absolutely noticeable. I got +2psi with the pulley and +1 more when I installed the S&B intake. The most noticeable difference was by far the pulley. Then I did the race chip programmer. It too made a noticeable difference. I did that before I did the pulley and the intake so I can't tell you if it was the combination that gave me the noticeable difference or the pulley alone. Then as I come to understand this stuff by pushing it that there is inherently belt slip even with the stock set ups. I wonder what a better tensioner would do. I have an american racing tensioner that I had installed with the build when I was getting slippage. I actually stepped it up further on mine with another.
I actually still have the race chip that I pulled out if your interested and the tensioner. You in my neck of the woods if you want to stop by. I'm in St James
 
The dip in the AFR is cat over temp kicking in which is killing all power. I imagine on a hot day with high IATs this will kick in after only a pull. This seems to be good for a pull or two until the PCM kicks in.
I just installed my predator pulley and went for a test drive. I did some 0-60 runs and noticed my AFR is at about 10 at WOT…should I assume this is the computer running it intentionally lean to cool the cats?

Thanks for the insight!
 
I just installed my predator pulley and went for a test drive. I did some 0-60 runs and noticed my AFR is at about 10 at WOT…should I assume this is the computer running it intentionally lean to cool the cats?

Thanks for the insight!
Rich, not lean. But yes.
 
I just installed my predator pulley and went for a test drive. I did some 0-60 runs and noticed my AFR is at about 10 at WOT…should I assume this is the computer running it intentionally lean to cool the cats?

Thanks for the insight!
Rich and normal. I think i usually see 10.2-10.5'ish
 
Rich, not lean. But yes.
Yes rich, meant that haha.

Interesting, just went for a short drive after the truck had been sitting for several hours. Leisurely drove about a quarter of a mile to a safe spot, then did a 0-60. Was still at 9.8 to 10.2 AFR at WOT. No way the cats were hot. I must have something else going on…
 
Yes rich, meant that haha.

Interesting, just went for a short drive after the truck had been sitting for several hours. Leisurely drove about a quarter of a mile to a safe spot, then did a 0-60. Was still at 9.8 to 10.2 AFR at WOT. No way the cats were hot. I must have something else going on…
Gotta be a safety from the ECU seeing above normal boost levels
 
I really wouldnt worry about aFR if ur truck is stock tune (even with predator) IMO. Plus i dont think the OEM AFR is NASA-level calibration lol.

I think it's universally accepted that the stock tune has enough wiggle to adjust for predator and remain safe. I remember the days stalking my aFR on my tuned vehicles. Was fun but I do enjoy not having to worry as much.
 
While I was concerned that the cold weather may have me running lean, it looks like the truck is running super rich.

Any thoughts on this AFR? How does this compare to other users with an intake & slip on pulley? Temps were right around 0C/32F.

View attachment 117702
This is exactly what I’m seeing after pulley install, basically as soon as I hit 12+ psi the AFR immediately drops from 11.9 down to 10.
 
Yes rich, meant that haha.

Interesting, just went for a short drive after the truck had been sitting for several hours. Leisurely drove about a quarter of a mile to a safe spot, then did a 0-60. Was still at 9.8 to 10.2 AFR at WOT. No way the cats were hot. I must have something else going on…
Cat overtemp protection kicks in pretty quickly. If it’s hot outside then by the time you get the trans up to temp then cat protection is likely on.

That said, you also have to adjust afr to the ratio that our trucks show on the afr gauge. The stoich on the gauge (lambda=1) is 13.8 rather than the normal 14.7. So convert to lambda and then multiply by 14.7 to get the AFR on the normal scale. Ie. 10.0 on the gauge is actually 10.65 on the normal 14.7 stoich scale.
 
Cat overtemp protection kicks in pretty quickly. If it’s hot outside then by the time you get the trans up to temp then cat protection is likely on.

That said, you also have to adjust afr to the ratio that our trucks show on the afr gauge. The stoich on the gauge (lambda=1) is 13.8 rather than the normal 14.7. So convert to lambda and then multiply by 14.7 to get the AFR on the normal scale. Ie. 10.0 on the gauge is actually 10.65 on the normal 14.7 stoich scale.
Stoich is about 14.1 with 10% Ethanol fuel. 14.7 would be Ethanol free stoich.
 
Stoich is about 14.1 with 10% Ethanol fuel. 14.7 would be Ethanol free stoich.
Correct. But the stock gauge does not differentiate and uses neither…it uses 13.8.

For awhile on e85 flex tunes I would do the conversion so I knew what value to look for on the gauge vs a corresponding e content with the correction factor applied. Now I just look at lambda directly on an aero force gauge which is much easier.
 
Cat overtemp protection kicks in pretty quickly. If it’s hot outside then by the time you get the trans up to temp then cat protection is likely on.

That said, you also have to adjust afr to the ratio that our trucks show on the afr gauge. The stoich on the gauge (lambda=1) is 13.8 rather than the normal 14.7. So convert to lambda and then multiply by 14.7 to get the AFR on the normal scale. Ie. 10.0 on the gauge is actually 10.65 on the normal 14.7 stoich scale.
I assume cat over temp protection be removed with tune, right? What would worst case be with removing it, blow the cat out? Asking more out of curiosity than anything. Also in the back of my mind i keep going back to adding headers but want to ride in one to experience first hand how livable it would be as a daily.
 
I assume cat over temp protection be removed with tune, right? What would worst case be with removing it, blow the cat out? Asking more out of curiosity than anything. Also in the back of my mind i keep going back to adding headers but want to ride in one to experience first hand how livable it would be as a daily.
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Likely shortly followed by needing a new engine.
 

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