Break-in Period

Yup, no harm in following what the engineers who designed the engine recommend! Honestly, they are FAR smarter than I am!

There are always a few people who disregard Mfg. instructions, to their own detriment. I recall when the first 2007 Tundras came out with the 5.7 engine, using 0W-20 oil. People online swore up and down that the engineers "got it wrong" and they were going to use 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil. Because that is what they had always used in all their vehicles since they were kids and because 0W-20 was way too thin. Can you say top end oil starvation at start up????????? Kinda funny.
 
Yup, no harm in following what the engineers who designed the engine recommend! Honestly, they are FAR smarter than I am!

There are always a few people who disregard Mfg. instructions, to their own detriment. I recall when the first 2007 Tundras came out with the 5.7 engine, using 0W-20 oil. People online swore up and down that the engineers "got it wrong" and they were going to use 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil. Because that is what they had always used in all their vehicles since they were kids and because 0W-20 was way too thin. Can you say top end oil starvation at start up????????? Kinda funny.
Bingo!
 
This is my take on break-in periods, I think it’s a legal loop hole. Companies tell the consumer to be very gentle and cautious, if the owner wrecks the vehicle right after they left the dealership, the owner doesn’t have a case because the manufacture states to drive easily. These trucks have 700hp I hope no one forgot, that’s a lot for a regular joe with a drivers license and never felt anything faster than there Kia Rio and can throw this thing off the road very easily. There’s nothing on a new vehicle that needs to break in, in fact things like the brakes should be broken in hard. As well as the motor, the only thing that needs to break in is the piston rings against the cylinder wall to reduce blow by increase power, which is done by high pressures and hard driving. Want a factory freak? 😈
 
This is my take on break-in periods, I think it’s a legal loop hole. Companies tell the consumer to be very gentle and cautious, if the owner wrecks the vehicle right after they left the dealership, the owner doesn’t have a case because the manufacture states to drive easily. These trucks have 700hp I hope no one forgot, that’s a lot for a regular joe with a drivers license and never felt anything faster than there Kia Rio and can throw this thing off the road very easily. There’s nothing on a new vehicle that needs to break in, in fact things like the brakes should be broken in hard. As well as the motor, the only thing that needs to break in is the piston rings against the cylinder wall to reduce blow by increase power, which is done by high pressures and hard driving. Want a factory freak? 😈
ilike-borat.gif
 
This is my take on break-in periods, I think it’s a legal loop hole. Companies tell the consumer to be very gentle and cautious, if the owner wrecks the vehicle right after they left the dealership, the owner doesn’t have a case because the manufacture states to drive easily. These trucks have 700hp I hope no one forgot, that’s a lot for a regular joe with a drivers license and never felt anything faster than there Kia Rio and can throw this thing off the road very easily.
That is indeed an interesting take on the break-in.

I suppose that means that vehicles with only 150 hp have recommended break-in procedures just to be able to pretend that they have lots of power?
 
That is indeed an interesting take on the break-in.

I suppose that means that vehicles with only 150 hp have recommended break-in procedures just to be able to pretend that they have lots of power?
I’ve thought about that too, for instance Hyundai elantras say don’t drive over 55mph and vary the rpm’s. They give some good advice on varying the rpm’s and not hold the car on cruise control, but the 55mph thing makes absolutely zero sense. Nothing on a new vehicle requires being broken in by low speeds, again I think it’s just another legal thing to prevent people from leaving the dealerships and doing 110mph down the highway, crashing, and blaming the manufacturers for not telling them how to drive it initially. All modern vehicles are capable of high rates of speeds and as long as you have a drivers license, you can jump in anything with a vin number.
 
This is my take on break-in periods, I think it’s a legal loop hole. Companies tell the consumer to be very gentle and cautious, if the owner wrecks the vehicle right after they left the dealership, the owner doesn’t have a case because the manufacture states to drive easily. These trucks have 700hp I hope no one forgot, that’s a lot for a regular joe with a drivers license and never felt anything faster than there Kia Rio and can throw this thing off the road very easily. There’s nothing on a new vehicle that needs to break in, in fact things like the brakes should be broken in hard. As well as the motor, the only thing that needs to break in is the piston rings against the cylinder wall to reduce blow by increase power, which is done by high pressures and hard driving. Want a factory freak? 😈
I've wondered this same thing!
 
Somebody needs to make axle gear manufacturers, for example, aware of this new "no break-in required" idea.

Much like vehicle manufacturers, they're wasting valuable resources (time and paper) on including what's apparently completely useless information.
All those saved pages could be used for another several pages on important stuff...such as how to install a car seat.
 
My thoughts are this, I’m not an engineer, so I followed the recommended break in period. The first 100 miles is the biggest inconvenience, and then from there it got easier. These vehicles start at $70,000 and can be optioned for close to $100,000. The TRX is by far the most expensive vehicle I’ve ever bought, and I managed to survive the 500 mile break in so that I can hope for at least 100,000 reliable miles. That said, I also opted for a Factory Extended Warranty that is bumper to bumper for 7yrs/70,000 miles just in case things go bad.
 
No matter the tolerances and surface finishes, the drivetrains are assembled with machined parts that have machined surfaces. Not running surfaces. Not until they are broken-in.


Ostensibly the engines are “run-in” at the plant to some degree. But the rest of the truck is not.
 
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So let me throw this out there. I work in a production facility that we use pumps that push over 40,000 gpm, motors that are up to 5500 Hp and numerous other mechanical / electrical devices. When these get repaired/rebuilt or installed new, there is no break in period, no running slow for x amount hours, we don't change the lube oil after x amount of hours/miles either. These run continously 24/7/365, if they fail these cost us $100,,000's of dollars or more, so obviously a high quality maintenance program is used i.e. vibration monitoring, oil analysis, routine maintenance ect... meaning if you take care of your equipment it will last a long time until it eventually wears out.
My last new truck 2018 power wagon, break in was "vary the hiway speeds, don't use cruise control for the first 500 miles" per the dealership. 70k miles, never had any issues. I drive it hard which is what i think these Hemi motors like to be driven (same way i drove my scatpack and hellcat)
 
No matter the tolerances and surface finishes, the drivetrains are assembled with machined parts that have machined surfaces. Not running surfaces. Not until they are broken-in.


Ostensibly the engines are “run-in” at the plant to some degree. But the rest of the truck is not.

No, the rest of the truck is not. The other parts are run-in at their own factories. In the case of our AdvanTEK DANA 60s, they are built and run-in near me at Dry Ridge, Kentucky! Surely you are smart enough to figure out! DANA doesnt just send a box of machined parts in a crate to Stellantis and say, "Here ya go, slap that in your fancy new TRXs". They do it in-house first. And its sufficient. Here, proof from your own link in the other thread that you do not need to drive 20 miles, park 30 minutes, drive 20 miles, park 30 minues.--

OnTheReel said:

You should stop to cool down the diffs during their initial run-in. Not for 2 days though.


The Gear Mating Process​


www.currieenterprises.com

The last line in that link you gave says the following - AND I QUOTE --
As an alternative to the traditional break-in procedure, Currie offers a dyno break-in service for new or rebuilt 9-inch third members that go through our shop. The dyno brake-in procedure spins the third member in a fixtured rearend for 20 minutes to allow the unit to reach operating temperature, after which it's allowed to cool, completing the initial run-in of the gears and bearings. The dyno break-in service is available for a fee of $150 and can help save some time and ensure your third member is quiet.

AS . AN . ALTERNATIVE!

. . . I guess some of these axle gear manufactures need to let some forum members know, for example, that they " aRen'T fOlLoWiNg tHe pRoPer BrEaK-In" themselves either then.


Again, like the building a HEMI in your garage example from the other thread. If you are putting in non-mated parts, of course you are heat cycling them while breaking them in. Un-mated parts? Of course!! Just like your own link proves!
 
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No, the rest of the truck is not. The other parts are run-in at their own factories. In the case of our AdvanTEK DANA 60s, they are built and run-in near me at Dry Ridge, Kentucky! Surely you are smart enough to figure out! DANA doesnt just send a box of machined parts in a crate to Stellantis and say, "Here ya go, slap that in your fancy new TRXs". They do it in-house first. And its sufficient. Here, proof from your own link in the other thread that you do not need to drive 20 miles, park 30 minutes, drive 20 miles, park 30 minues.--



The last line in that link you gave says the following - AND I QUOTE --


AS . AN . ALTERNATIVE!

. . . I guess some of these axle gear manufactures need to let some forum members know, for example, that they " aRen'T fOlLoWiNg tHe pRoPer BrEaK-In" themselves either then.


Again, like the building a HEMI in your garage example from the other thread. If you are putting in non-mated parts, of course you are heat cycling them while breaking them in. Un-mated parts? Of course!! Just like your own link proves!
So the front axle, rear axle, and transfer case are filled with oil and run-in at their respective assembly plants before shipping? Curious because there was an awful lot of trash on the magnets and glitter in the lube on mine. Rear axle was especially bad. Was that from them breaking it in, or me?

This topic is as bad as motor oil, politics and religion. The people that ask the questions only do it to find the answer they want to hear.
 
It's a bit odd, I think, that all these things (engine and drivetrain) that are supposedly broken in, or don't need to be, always have more crap in them at first...according to oil analysis results, magnetic drain and level plugs, etc.
It's almost as if they were indeed breaking in.

Also strange is that the various manufacturers of these parts still seem to think that things should be broken in.
Unless, of course, it's somehow true that it's just a plot to make people driving more slowly at first.
 
So the front axle, rear axle, and transfer case are filled with oil and run-in at their respective assembly plants before shipping? Curious because there was an awful lot of trash on the magnets and glitter in the lube on mine. Rear axle was especially bad. Was that from them breaking it in, or me?

I'm going to assume this is just a rhetorical question, you seem like you know the answer to it already.

. . . and as for your specific case. I'm again, sure you are well aware that there could be a myriad of reason other than the break-in schedule you used or didn't use.

Additionally, Do yourself a favor and download some of the DANA SPICER specific data sheets and look at their recommended fluid change intervals. I won't spoil it for you.


This topic is as bad as motor oil, politics and religion. The people that ask the questions only do it to find the answer they want to hear.

Yeah, generally speaking, You can tell who's on the losing side of an argument, when they have to warp your position to an extreme to make their own point appear more valid. I certainly have NEVER advocated not following a manufacturers break-in requirement!!

Furthermore, again, as mentioned in the previous thread, when it comes to the choice of listening to what DANA/SPICER engineers tell me for break in - or what some random dude on the Internet says ( that would be you ) -- yeah, Imma' take the engineer's word for it!

And in closing, I'm also just some random dude on the Internet, so I do not expect folks to take my word for it either - folks can make their OWN call to DANA/SPICER and be told exactly what they told me - which is exactly what I'm telling others here.... it's really that fucking simple!

No politics! No religion! No hearing only what I wanna hear!
 
And in closing, I'm also just some random dude on the Internet, so I do not expect folks to take my word for it either - folks can make their OWN call to DANA/SPICER and be told exactly what they told me - which is exactly what I'm telling others here.... it's really that fucking simple!
We both know that most will just ignore the break-in altogether because it’s inconvenient. They won’t keep it long enough for that to bite them anyway. A part’s reasonable lifetime to those guys, a reasonable lifetime to Dana and a reasonable lifetime to me are all different things. Best I can do is use my experience, common sense, and my own two eyes.

Anyway, I feel like we aren’t too far apart on agreeing here so I’ll leave it at that. Done playing whack-a-mole with these stupid threads.
 

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