740rwhp 93 octane TRX write up

I've found that with my truck in reverse, the driveline increases horsepower by 20% 🤣
 
My favorite part is that the guy still doesn’t understand correction factors. Any properly setup dyno (including hub) will automatically take into account environmental factors like temp and humidity. Although they can be manipulated by the shop by doing things like putting a heat source near the temp sensor to trick it into thinking it’s hotter outside. The correction factor that is manually input on that hub dyno is wheel mass props and it’s not some %. Guy makes Joe Biden look smart.
9% correction on that day. 7% yesterday. I dynoed 800whp with upper and injectors. ;)
 
Who gives a shit what HP numbers are on the dyno? Put the truck on a drag strip or get a draggy.
Stop being a dyno queen. The speed and acceleration does not lie. A dyno is a tuning tool, but can be manipulated.
You sound like the corvette guys that run around bragging that their car makes 2000hp and they get their ass whipped by a 1200hp car.
 
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Who here owns a mainline and knows how to manipulate the correction factor? 🫦 or better yet, who here has the same mods and can out dyno me? 😈
 
Who gives a shit what HP numbers are on the dyno? Put the truck on a drag strip or get a draggy.
Stop being a dyno queen. The speed and acceleration does not lie. A dyno is a tuning tool, but can be manipulated.
You sound like the corvette guys that run around bragging that their car makes 2000hp and they get their ass whipped by a 1200hp car.
It’s not bragging, it’s sharing quality information. 😈
 
But yet you want to know who can out dyno you???? LMAO. Are you scared to drive the truck????
Actually, I was just looking for someone to share similar results or explain to me how 740 was possible. After finding out about the correction factor, I’ve since added it into the post. 682 makes a lot more sense. I’ve got nothing to prove, it seems that y’all are the ones looking for the validation, and I think it starts with a little little blue pill.
 
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After upper pulley and injectors with a 7% correction factor in place. The chiller was good for 20ish whp as the truck pulled 3 degrees of timing without it on. Nice. Enjoy gentlemen, merry Christmas and happy new years to all!
 
Actually, I was just looking for someone to share similar results or explain to me how 740 was possible. After finding out about the correction factor, I’ve since added it into the post. 682 makes a lot more sense. I’ve got nothing to prove, it seems that y’all are the ones looking for the validation, and I think it starts with a little little blue pill.
And everyone here has asked you to back it up with some very simple street testing. But all you want to do is show dyno numbers.
Great, now go drive the truck and see what it can actually do. That's all that matters. Most here have at some point shown some draggy times or drag strip times.
 
And everyone here has asked you to back it up with some very simple street testing. But all you want to do is show dyno numbers.
Great, now go drive the truck and see what it can actually do. That's all that matters. Most here have at some point shown some draggy times or drag strip times.
Wonderful, I’ve got nothing to prove, brother. Look within yourself and see if you have something to prove to yourself and then us.
 
Wonderful, I’ve got nothing approved brother. Look within yourself and see if you have something to prove to yourself and then us.
LMAO. WHAT????? You are the one that has insisted on that everyone believe all of the BS... I don't give shit....
If you don't want to drive the truck then leave it on the dyno. Probably safer for you.
 
It would be hard for scuba Steve to drive with those giant flippers.
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And those hinky dyno numbers don’t mean dick until scuba Steve puts tire to pavement and gets some real 0-60 and 1/4 mile data with a dragy or takes it to a strip. So I guess we’ll never know since he’s unwilling to actually test the mods outside the dyno garage.
 
HAHA Scuba Steve!

I am having Dusterhoffs 937 Flex package installed 2nd week of Jan and the shop i am taking it too has a AWD Dyno. Will be interesting to see what it actually makes with ATI 10% lower, 3.05 upper and ID1300 injectors on E85. I have the hardware to do his 997 package but waiting to see if i am going to add ported snout and TB before adding that tune. I would think his 997 package making close to 20psi would be around 800 to the wheels.
 
HAHA Scuba Steve!

I am having Dusterhoffs 937 Flex package installed 2nd week of Jan and the shop i am taking it too has a AWD Dyno. Will be interesting to see what it actually makes with ATI 10% lower, 3.05 upper and ID1300 injectors on E85. I have the hardware to do his 997 package but waiting to see if i am going to add ported snout and TB before adding that tune. I would think his 997 package making close to 20psi would be around 800 to the wheels.
What size pulley with the 10% lower for 997? My math shows 2.85?
 
What size pulley with the 10% lower for 997? My math shows 2.85?
i haven't purchased upper for 997 yet. I am going to most likely do ported snout and TB at the same time. He told me with that if i do both to increase the size of the upper because if i run a 2.85 will most likely be too much boost. Ill post in here when i go down that rout.
 
9% correction on that day. 7% yesterday. I dynoed 800whp with upper and injectors. ;)
You have to be the dumbest dumb person I have ever seen on the internet. Congrats.

That “correction factor” is for environmental corrections. Its the equivalent of density altitude calculator and provides the difference between raw and SAE corrected values. Typically the data reported on the screen already has these corrected values applied and I’m guessing your original numbers do too. Otherwise you could just hit the SAE corrected output and take a screenshot of the “740whp” graph and then post that as SAE corrected data. Just as an fyi shops have been using the SAE corrected method to deceive people for decades. Just place the sensor near any heat source like a space heater or heating duct for the central air and you can trick it to read higher. Regardless this has nothing to do with drivetrain loss, wheels or otherwise. So you still need to subtract another number to account for using a hub RWD only dyno rather than AWD and at the tire. Of course it’s still just a dyno and means very little… get some dragy data.

Do I need to reach out to the dyno shop and your tuner again to have them explain to you just how dumb you are?

Did I read that your chiller only picked up 20hp which is in the range of what I said (20-40whp)?

When are we doing the race for $10k? I’m even more in now!
 

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