Mopar Driveshaft Clunk Repair

OnTheReel · Sep 14, 2022

esm said:
Can't you just unbolt and drop the driveshaft front the front and leave it connected at the rear differential? Maybe only jack up the front of the truck?

I didn’t jack it up but at ride height, I tried and couldn’t wrestle it out. There wasn’t enough room to swing the shaft out to the side and clear the transfer case flange. Also couldn’t find enough space by dropping it down. Ultimately, removing another 4 bolts and greasing it in comfort on the bench wasn’t the end of the world. But I won’t say it’s totally impossible to do what you suggest with more effort than I put in.

grapple22 · Sep 14, 2022

RamRex said:
Since the rubber boot should be left on couldn't we just take the clamp off slide the boot up and put grease while the d/s is still on the truck?

I would like to know the answer to this as well. Someone posted (either on here or facebook awhile back ago) that you do not have to remove the drive shaft, but if true I would assume that OP would've done this since he knows more than most of us (considering his job).

OnTheReel · Sep 14, 2022

grapple22 said:
I would like to know the answer to this as well. Someone posted (either on here or facebook awhile back ago) that you do not have to remove the drive shaft, but if true I would assume that OP would've done this since he knows more than most of us (considering his job).

Nope, tried it. Can’t see any splines at all with the driveshaft installed and truck at ride height. I guess that makes sense from a design standpoint since you’d want maximum engagement and not half the splines sticking out all the time. Would have been a nice shortcut though.

WhiteLightning · Sep 14, 2022

grapple22 said:
I would like to know the answer to this as well. Someone posted (either on here or facebook awhile back ago) that you do not have to remove the drive shaft, but if true I would assume that OP would've done this since he knows more than most of us (considering his job).

Uh... I think I posted earlier... You don't really have to remove the whole driveshaft. When I did mine, I just released the 'short' end (four bolts, one hose clamp) and pulled that one piece out. That gives access to the everything, inside and out. I dunno why you would want the to mess with the 'long' end.

PotterTRX · Sep 14, 2022

pdmiller said:
whats the FB page link? there a ton of trx groups

This should be the main TRX group.

Facebook

www.facebook.com

Alienhead · Sep 16, 2022

Mine is getting done as I type this up. I am the guinea pig for the dealership. The tech started working before I watched the video. He was not happy with me LOL.

PotterTRX · Sep 16, 2022

Alienhead said:
Mine is getting done as I type this up. I am the guinea pig for the dealership. The tech started working before I watched the video. He was not happy with me LOL.

Was he smart and not pull the boot or dumb like me and pulled the boot? lol

RobR651 · Sep 16, 2022

For all of you DIY guys here’s the official instructions:

Service kit part number 68597433A.A (grease tube, large & small clamps, 8 bolts (4 rear, 4 front ))
REMOVE DRIVESHAFT FROM VEHICLE
1.
Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting Standard Procedure)
2.
Confirm the driveshaft part number from the white rectangular barcode label on driveshaft tube.
Proceed only if part number on driveshaft label is 53011135AC. 53011135AD, or 53011135AE
3
Mark the yoke and sleeve with a paint pen to indicate original spline installation alignment.
4.
Mark the front driveshaft flange to the transfer case mating flange to keep the installation position the same after
servicing is completed.
Mark the driveshaft flange and rear axle flange with a paint pen to indicate original installation alignment.
6. Remove the rear axle attachment bolts (4 bolts) - discard bolts (new bolts required for reassembly)Refer to 03
Differential and Driveline/Driveshaft SHAFT, Drive, Rear/Removal and Installation for bolt torque specification
Remove the driveshaft bolts (4 bolts) to transfer case flange and discard bolts (new bolts required for reassembly).
8.
Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle flange.
9. Remove entire driveshaft from vehicle and secure on bench or table. Full support of shaft is necessary to prevent
joint damage.
10. Remove large and small boot clamp from boot seal & pull boot off spline sleeve (clamp noted above ) and
separate the two parts of the driveshaft. Remove and discard boot. (new boot included in 68597433A.A kit)
11. Apply the full contents of the service kit grease tube to exposed INTERNAL spline cavity on the main body of
the driveshaft. Apply grease 360° around inside perimeter of internal spline cavity, approximately 1 inch deep.
A. Protect exposed spline surfaces from contamination during the greasing procedure.
B. Do NOT apply grease to the externally splined yoke (transfer case end).
C. Application of grease to the front portion of the internal spline cavity is sufficient. The grease will
distribute across the length of the spline during reassembly.
D. Do not clean the spline or utilize any grease other than supplied in the service kit. Contamination
with solvents, debris or unapproved lubricants could permanently damage the spline.
12. Place a new boot and small clamp from the service kit over the yoke end shaft and clamp in same position as
before removal. Place large clamp (supplied in kit) loosely over boot on tube end -Do not secure clamp yet.
13. Reassemble the main body of the driveshaft to the yoke and boot assembly, aligning the spline according to the
marks applied in step 3.
a.
The spline will only reassemble freely in the original spline orientation. Do not force assembly with
the spline out of rotational alignment. Misaligned assembly will result in noise or vibration.
14. Securely crimp the large boot clamp placed in step 12 with suitable ear clamp crimping tool
15. Reattach front of Driveshaft to transfer case using matching marks made in step + for alignment and new
fasteners. (Refer to 03 - Differential and Driveline/DriveshafU/SHAFT, Drive, Rear/Removal and Installation for
bolt torque specification
16. Reattach the rear of the driveshaft to the rear axle using new bolts supplied in the service kit. (Refer to 03
Differential and Driveline/DriveshafV/SHAFT, Drive, Rear/Removal and Installation for bolt torque specification)

Brudish · Sep 16, 2022

RobR651 said:
For all of you DIY guys here’s the official instructions:

Service kit part number 68597433A.A (grease tube, large & small clamps, 8 bolts (4 rear, 4 front ))
REMOVE DRIVESHAFT FROM VEHICLE
1.
Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting Standard Procedure)
2.
Confirm the driveshaft part number from the white rectangular barcode label on driveshaft tube.
Proceed only if part number on driveshaft label is 53011135AC. 53011135AD, or 53011135AE
3
Mark the yoke and sleeve with a paint pen to indicate original spline installation alignment.
4.
Mark the front driveshaft flange to the transfer case mating flange to keep the installation position the same after
servicing is completed.
Mark the driveshaft flange and rear axle flange with a paint pen to indicate original installation alignment.
6. Remove the rear axle attachment bolts (4 bolts) - discard bolts (new bolts required for reassembly)Refer to 03
Differential and Driveline/Driveshaft SHAFT, Drive, Rear/Removal and Installation for bolt torque specification
Remove the driveshaft bolts (4 bolts) to transfer case flange and discard bolts (new bolts required for reassembly).
8.
Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle flange.
9. Remove entire driveshaft from vehicle and secure on bench or table. Full support of shaft is necessary to prevent
joint damage.
10. Remove large and small boot clamp from boot seal & pull boot off spline sleeve (clamp noted above ) and
separate the two parts of the driveshaft. Remove and discard boot. (new boot included in 68597433A.A kit)
11. Apply the full contents of the service kit grease tube to exposed INTERNAL spline cavity on the main body of
the driveshaft. Apply grease 360° around inside perimeter of internal spline cavity, approximately 1 inch deep.
A. Protect exposed spline surfaces from contamination during the greasing procedure.
B. Do NOT apply grease to the externally splined yoke (transfer case end).
C. Application of grease to the front portion of the internal spline cavity is sufficient. The grease will
distribute across the length of the spline during reassembly.
D. Do not clean the spline or utilize any grease other than supplied in the service kit. Contamination
with solvents, debris or unapproved lubricants could permanently damage the spline.
12. Place a new boot and small clamp from the service kit over the yoke end shaft and clamp in same position as
before removal. Place large clamp (supplied in kit) loosely over boot on tube end -Do not secure clamp yet.
13. Reassemble the main body of the driveshaft to the yoke and boot assembly, aligning the spline according to the
marks applied in step 3.
a.
The spline will only reassemble freely in the original spline orientation. Do not force assembly with
the spline out of rotational alignment. Misaligned assembly will result in noise or vibration.
14. Securely crimp the large boot clamp placed in step 12 with suitable ear clamp crimping tool
15. Reattach front of Driveshaft to transfer case using matching marks made in step + for alignment and new
fasteners. (Refer to 03 - Differential and Driveline/DriveshafU/SHAFT, Drive, Rear/Removal and Installation for
bolt torque specification
16. Reattach the rear of the driveshaft to the rear axle using new bolts supplied in the service kit. (Refer to 03
Differential and Driveline/DriveshafV/SHAFT, Drive, Rear/Removal and Installation for bolt torque specification)

Thanks for the great info…do you know where the torque specs for the drive shaft bolts are located?

RobR651 · Sep 16, 2022

Brudish said:
Thanks for the great info…do you know where the torque specs for the drive shaft bolts are located?

55ft lbs I believe

Alienhead · Sep 16, 2022

PotterTRX said:
Was he smart and not pull the boot or dumb like me and pulled the boot? lol

No he followed the instructions before I could get to him.

marksouth · Sep 21, 2022

Mine was completed last night. Feels so good to have that little start/stop bump gone (for now). Here's to hoping it lasts longer than 2,500 miles this time.

Alienhead · Sep 21, 2022

Something I noticed on the videos and with my slip joint is that it seems the lube that is on them is around the boot. Almost as if the assembly process used the grease to make the installation of the boot easier rather than applying it to the slip joint itself. That is complete speculation based on limited information.

After having it done I noticed the whole driving experience is a little more forgiving.

marksouth · Sep 21, 2022

Alienhead said:
Something I noticed on the videos and with my slip joint is that it seems the lube that is on them is around the boot. Almost as if the assembly process used the grease to make the installation of the boot easier rather than applying it to the slip joint itself. That is complete speculation based on limited information.

After having it done I noticed the whole driving experience is a little more forgiving.

The area under the boot on mine had the white grease residue also. No other signs of the white grease on the splines or inside the slip yoke. Like you, I'm guessing it was a very light coating for assembly.

AZDinoPwr · Sep 21, 2022

Since the “fix” from Ram is grease and I didn’t feel like waiting for the uber kluber crap I went ahead and dropped the driveshaft for the 3rd time last night since the clunk is back (truck has 10k miles). It’s also about a 3 week wait to get into the local dealer. Thoroughly cleaned off the old grease (definitely has metal shavings in it) and also saw that pretty much all the grease I have applied ends up in the boot after 3-4K mikes. Applied the Ford blue PTFE stuff again since I have it and reassembled. PITA this time around since the output shaft on the transfer case moved a little and the splines on the driveshaft didn’t line up. Had to jack the rear end of the truck to rotate and get it back together. Guess I’ll plan to ask the dealer to do this again on my next visit…clunk should be back by then lol. Yay RAM, your customer service blows.

FULLTHROTTLERICK · Sep 21, 2022

AZDinoPwr said:
Since the “fix” from Ram is grease and I didn’t feel like waiting for the uber kluber crap I went ahead and dropped the driveshaft for the 3rd time last night since the clunk is back (truck has 10k miles). It’s also about a 3 week wait to get into the local dealer. Thoroughly cleaned off the old grease (definitely has metal shavings in it) and also saw that pretty much all the grease I have applied ends up in the boot after 3-4K mikes. Applied the Ford blue PTFE stuff again since I have it and reassembled. PITA this time around since the output shaft on the transfer case moved a little and the splines on the driveshaft didn’t line up. Had to jack the rear end of the truck to rotate and get it back together. Guess I’ll plan to ask the dealer to do this again on my next visit…clunk should be back by then lol. Yay RAM, your customer service blows.

so you've essentially done Ram's "fix" already (albeit without the special alien grease) and the clunk has returned? If your grease has left the building (and gone into the boot), then i'm sure Ram's alien grease will do the same. Sounds like the best evidence we've seen so far of this "fix" being a band-aid only.

AZDinoPwr · Sep 21, 2022

blaster9 said:
so you've essentially done Ram's "fix" already (albeit without the special alien grease) and the clunk has returned? If your grease has left the building (and gone into the boot), then i'm sure Ram's alien grease will do the same. Sounds like the best evidence we've seen so far of this "fix" being a band-aid only.

Yes, this is the 3rd time (maybe 4th

) of doing the bandaid fix. I preached about this for months…almost a year…if you go back to the original clunk thread. There have been a bunch of new threads started and seems most folks are reinventing the wheel in these conversations again. I was arguing with people who were claiming you could fix the problem long term by just pulling the boot back a little and squirting some grease on the inch of splines showing.

Been there and done that. Grease only on the exposed splines had almost no effect. Greasing the entire shaft seems to last about 3-4K miles for me. I’m sure everyone will be different.

Eighty · Sep 21, 2022

AZDinoPwr said:
Yes, this is the 3rd time (maybe 4th ) of doing the bandaid fix. I preached about this for months…almost a year…if you go back to the original clunk thread. There have been a bunch of new threads started and seems most folks are reinventing the wheel in these conversations again. I was arguing with people who were claiming you could fix the problem long term by just pulling the boot back a little and squirting some grease on the inch of splines showing.

Been there and done that. Grease only on the exposed splines had almost no effect. Greasing the entire shaft seems to last about 3-4K miles for me. I’m sure everyone will be different.

I'm just talking out of my ass here, so take it for what it's worth.
I assume that FCA's choice of unobtanium-based grease was due to some testing - presumably they found a grease that won't relocate to the boot. Otherwise, it seems an odd choice to use a grease that isn't available in the USA.

marksouth · Sep 21, 2022

Take this for what it's worth, I'm certainly no grease expert, but here is the info on the grease in the kit from the Kluber spec sheet (link: https://dicksonbearings.ie/dbdocument/2089/KLÜBERSYNTH_JIP_84-402_EN_en.pdf ). I do like that it's specifically formulated for "reduction of stick-slip".

Benefits for your application
– Energy savings achieved through particularly low friction coefficient
– Reduction of stick-slip and breakaway noise
– For heavily loaded plastic/steel combinations
– Particularly good corrosion protection
– Cost-effective alternative to PFPE greases with similar friction coefficient
Description
Klübersynth JIP 84-402 shows particularly low friction coefficients under high percentages of sliding friction for the material combination steel/plastic. The main aim of product development was to achieve particularly low friction values in heavily loaded ball joints of the material combination steel/ PEEK. Breakaway torque was completely eliminated in a component test.
Application
For very heavily loaded steel/plastic combinations (like steel/ PEEK) to achieve very low friction coefficients under sliding friction and for ball joints of the material combination steel/ plastic. Developed to meet the special requirements of wheel-, supporting- and guiding joints.

Brudish · Sep 21, 2022

I was just browsing mopar.com and came across a TRX driveshaft grease kit for $2.35. It comes with grease, one clamp, and 8 attaching bolts (no driveshaft boot). I ordered it...guess I'll see if it comes with the "special" grease. My question is how is this kit $2.35 but the kit described in the service bulletin $99.85.