Mopar Driveshaft Clunk Repair

So my build date is a few months after the cut-off but i do have a small clunk every once in a while but ONLY in sport trans setting. Does anyone else get this in sport mode?
I just did the new Mopar service bulletin driveshaft clunk repair on my truck and tried to make a decent video showing the process.
thanks for the video man. Is anyone else also getting the clunk when actually driving at higher sowers than punching it? I am starting to get it when I am cruising or merging into highways and when I punch the gas upon the rev match it clunks pretty bad.
 
I just did the new Mopar service bulletin driveshaft clunk repair on my truck and tried to make a decent video showing the process.
Thanks for the video! My 22 is clunking and driving me nuts
 
Did I just make the cut?
Not per the Rev. A document. They cut it off at 2/5. But from what I'm seeing, there's a chance you can still get it done despite the date.
 
My build date is May 16, 2022 and I feel a tiny clunk every so often in sport trans mode. I dont care if mine was built on September 12, 2022, if it continues to develop, my dealer will be handling it on their nickel for sure!
 
Forgot to add this. I wasn’t sure if I could re-use the original clamp so I did order these as a backup:

Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamp, Tight-Seal, 23/64" x 0.024" Band, 2-7/16" to 2-9/16" ID


They are the same exact brand and style as the original. But the original size range is 60.8mm-64mm, these are 61.8mm-65mm. I doubt that 1mm would make a difference unless the original clamp is at the extreme low end of it’s range when tightened. Although I admit I didn’t try them because my original was fine.

310E541B-89BC-49DD-B0B4-A9FCD4B5C030.webp


I did find the exact 64mm clamps on other sites, but they are only sold in bulk, like 300+ at once.

 
I just did the new Mopar service bulletin driveshaft clunk repair on my truck and tried to make a decent video showing the process.
You the man Tyler! My dealer says they can't get the kit yet...Annoying! I love your Videos bro! Watching the Jeep 4xe now...
 
Not per the Rev. A document. They cut it off at 2/5. But from what I'm seeing, there's a chance you can still get it done despite the date.
I'm seeing prior to Feb 21st? Per @Nitro post #29...Do you have the document that's different?
 
Took my truck in yesterday for the clunk, the occasionally blacked out screen, and the knuckle head oil change guys left off half the bolts on the skid pan and broke one off and left it with only 3 bolts holding it on.
We will see what they say.
 
$89.97 for this kit (boot, grease, clamps & bolts) on mopar.com...what a rip off. So, will a dealer purchase this kit for me and let me do the work myself?
 
$89.97 for this kit (boot, grease, clamps & bolts) on mopar.com...what a rip off. So, will a dealer purchase this kit for me and let me do the work myself?
You can try and order it yourself through Mopar or a dealer parts counter but you’ll be paying for it
 
So my build date is a few months after the cut-off but i do have a small clunk every once in a while but ONLY in sport trans setting. Does anyone else get this in sport mode?
I think it’s up to 2-28-22.
My bet is that the date will shift to later date/s as supply catches up and dealerships are able to handle the demand. I am surprised if they don't adjust the grease/boot/part numbers (@PotterTRX recommendation on skipping the boot is an interesting fitment issue that needs to be rectified as well IMO) during the enext TSB with the manuf date extended.. Just a guess! ;)
 
Edit: im now experiencing a minor clunk even in auto mode right when gently taking off (felt it about 25x omw home from work yesterday in stop & go traffic). Guess ill wait until it gets a bit worse & then bring her in.
 
Edit: im now experiencing a minor clunk even in auto mode right when gently taking off (felt it about 25x omw home from work yesterday in stop & go traffic). Guess ill wait until it gets a bit worse & then bring her in.
Once it starts it only gets worse and more frequent. Took my dealer about 2 weeks to get the part once they ordered it.
 
Once it starts it only gets worse and more frequent. Took my dealer about 2 weeks to get the part once they ordered it.
Thanks for the heads-up!

For those of you who have done the "fix", would it be possible to drill & tap a grease zerk in the area that will need to be re-greased?
 
Well, I did mine today.
View attachment 51446
Used the Quicksilver Extreme Grease I spoke of previously. Took about an hour. Nothing complicated, but certainly physically taxing doing it on the ground. I threw down a moving blanket and used a lot of care handling the driveshaft. Before removal, I added alignment marks on both yokes. Remember to set the parking brake so nothing moves on ya. Electric ratchet is a blessing to have. And since I didn’t get new bolts, I put some blue Loctite on the originals when re-installing.

The boot clamp can be re-used easily. Like @rao26 said, use a flathead. Pry up on the band (red arrow) until it goes over the tab (yellow arrow) and comes free. Once it’s off, you can straighten up any bends in the clamp to prep it for re-install. View attachment 51445
To re-install the clamp, feed a small flathead through the last hole on the brand and “grab” the big tab (yellow arrow again). You can then use the screwdriver to lever the band back over the tab without any special tools. Once it’s over the tab, the clamp may still be a bit loose. Use the correct crimper (or improvise something) to squeeze the area in the blue circle together to tension the clamp back up.

Tried that first, there were literally no splines exposed with the truck on the ground at ride height. Maybe lifting the back end up would expose them a little more, but I see no way you could do the job adequately. As a lazy person, I hoped it would be so easy but it isn’t.
Can't you just unbolt and drop the driveshaft front the front and leave it connected at the rear differential? Maybe only jack up the front of the truck?
 

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