Mishimoto transmission thermostat- preliminary review

So I have recently installed the Mishimoto with good results. Usually stays 155 170 degrees which seems ideal. I just took 120 mile trip in mid 40’s weather and averaged 65 mph or so (traffic). Around 80 miles In I noticed the trans temp was @ 104 and got as low as 100 degrees before climbing slightly when I came into a town and had a few stoplights. That seems pretty low - almost like the bypass was installed but it definitely has the thermostat in there. Wondering if that seems odd to you guys that have been running it for a while…..
 
That does seem oddly low if it has the thermostat installed
 
Especially so as I took a 60 mile trip with only slightly higher speeds and same temps and stayed 160 ish for most of the trip. I will have to monitor in the way back Sunday. I suppose the thermostat could have failed but that seems unlikely inside of 3 weeks lol
 
So I have recently installed the Mishimoto with good results. Usually stays 155 170 degrees which seems ideal. I just took 120 mile trip in mid 40’s weather and averaged 65 mph or so (traffic). Around 80 miles In I noticed the trans temp was @ 104 and got as low as 100 degrees before climbing slightly when I came into a town and had a few stoplights. That seems pretty low - almost like the bypass was installed but it definitely has the thermostat in there. Wondering if that seems odd to you guys that have been running it for a while…..
Even with a straight bypass I saw temps higher than that. Typically would settle in around 130-140 on a long enough trip, but took an age to get there.

Temps with the Mishimoto have always been pretty consistent in the range you reported (155-170).
 
I have noticed the temp readings between the corner gagues, and the vehicle info center menu has usually a 10-15 delta. Not sure if one is polling at a slower interval, but cant imagine its a def sensor, and hopefully its not “implied” temp reading. A couple if months after I noticed this, my radiator decided to puke coolant on the ground, but temp readings would just read current condition, its just +/- resistance indicating a temp, dunno?

I did get a MM 180 thermo, with new radiator, hoses, and coolant for replacement.
 
Well the trip home resulted in 145 - 155 degrees so that super low reading was maybe a sensor / UConnect glitch? I didn’t chexk the gauge page last time but this time identical readings. Weird
 
Is yours throwing this code like mine?
 

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My center console big screen gauge page used to be 1-2° low and behind the dash gauge screen.

I can’t say now, as I never know what gauges will be there and if I can even get that screen to come up.
 
Is you throwing this code like mine?
That code is for the engine’s thermostat, nothing to do with this mod. Typically pops up if you’re running a cooler thermostat without tune.
 
My center console big screen gauge page used to be 1-2° low and behind the dash gauge screen.

I can’t say now, as I never know what gauges will be there and if I can even get that screen to come up.
Center console gauges have a lower refresh rate than the main dash ones. Not sure why, it's all CAN-BUS, but that's something I've noticed on mine.
 
Got this installed yesterday. Appreciate all the information, definitely made things easier. HNBR o-rings from HF worked great.

Overall not a bad job, but kind of a PITA due to location. I messed around with it for a little bit before just taking the cats off. I’d recommend anyone looking to do this to plan to do that from the get-go, it made things much easier.

Definitely happy with the difference in temps. I think 175 is the highest I saw in city traffic yesterday. This is gonna be huge during the summer when it’s a million degrees outside.
 
These are my initial impressions of the Mishimoto MMTC-GMP-TBV transmission cooler thermostat, and some other interesting info. I posted before about the Revmax bypass I installed years ago which provides full flow to the trans cooler at all times. While not harmful, it’s not ideal for winter use in the north. So I looked into other options that retain a thermostat but at a lower activation temperature, and with better flow.

First I started by looking at the factory TBV, Mopar part number: 52014762AA. I pulled that part number up and find that it was originally used on 3.6 powered Charger, Challenger and 300! Yep, they stuck a failure prone, high temperature and low flow Pentastar transmission thermostat in our TRX!!!

While I find that “engineering decision” incredibly stupid, it was actually a good revelation. Because that’s how I found this Mishimoto…simply by looking for that application instead of the 8HP95.

Onto the review. The Mishimoto is actually really well finished and seems to be a quality part. Comparing it to our factory 3.6…I mean 6.2…TBV, the difference became clear. The factory TBV is choked down to 1/4” at the cooler outlet fitting. So even when the thermostat opens eventually, flow is restricted. 1/2” lines mean nothing. The Mishimoto is wide open after the thermostat.
View attachment 145705View attachment 145706
Install was the same as the Revmax. Easy but not comfortable. Have a nitrile o-ring kit handy because yours may be damaged. The Harbor Freight kit had o-rings that were a little thicker but work fine. No leaks.
View attachment 145707
The fitting at the bottom allows you to drop out the thermostat and install the included bypass if you want full flow 100% of the time. I haven’t tested that yet, but it seems like it’ll be pretty tight to get out of there while leaving the unit in place. We’ll see. So far I am happy with thermostat temps but this is a very early review.

I just did a 45 minute drive after install. Mixed city and highway. Trans got up to temperature quickly and stayed very stable. Running down the highway it was easy to detect when the thermostat was opening. Trans would hit 151*, drop to 147, 149 and then repeat when hitting 151 again. Some WOT pulls brought temps to as high as 158* but as soon as I backed off it would drop back to that 150-ish range. So while this thermostat is listed at 160, ostensibly the same as factory, it runs MUCH cooler than factory. I can remember seeing 190+ on similar length highway trips with the factory TBV. And for more context. With the Revmax in this weather I’d see probably 125-ish.View attachment 145712
So overall I think it splits the difference between the factory part which is a piece of shit, and the Revmax which may be too racy for some. Here on eBay they have a coupon code that brought it to under $150. A bargain in my view. With warmer weather coming I will add more thoughts but initial impressions are positive.


Note: Mishimoto also sells one that’s cheaper and silver in color. It has “FF” at the end of its part number and doesn’t have a thermostat. If you want a cheap version of the Revmax it’ll work but not what most are looking for. The one in my link has the thermostat installed and includes a bypass if you want to install it down the road.

Summer 2025 heat update: Even with ambient temps approaching 100* in traffic, this thing maintains temperature below 180* easily. Perfect.
Struggled for like 1hr getting it to line up with the threads. But finally got it. Managed to make 1 new o-ring disappear when I was trying to install a new one. Hoping it didn’t disappear into the tube itself; used a flash light and didn’t see any thing. Maybe it went flying a different direction.

Did a quick test, with no leak to be seen. Tomorrow will be the real test.
 
Got this installed yesterday. Appreciate all the information, definitely made things easier. HNBR o-rings from HF worked great.

Overall not a bad job, but kind of a PITA due to location. I messed around with it for a little bit before just taking the cats off. I’d recommend anyone looking to do this to plan to do that from the get-go, it made things much easier.

Definitely happy with the difference in temps. I think 175 is the highest I saw in city traffic yesterday. This is gonna be huge during the summer when it’s a million degrees outside.
I was tempted on removing the cats but I just removed both skid plates and just worked my way around. Not easy and it took a lot of patience.
 
Struggled for like 1hr getting it to line up with the threads. But finally got it. Managed to make 1 new o-ring disappear when I was trying to install a new one. Hoping it didn’t disappear into the tube itself; used a flash light and didn’t see any thing. Maybe it went flying a different direction.

Did a quick test, with no leak to be seen. Tomorrow will be the real test.
Check it and re-torque after a week or so of driving. Trust me, there's a good chance you'll have at least 1 loose one ready to spring a leak. I'm not the only 1 who's had them loosen up after initial install
 
Check it and re-torque after a week or so of driving. Trust me, there's a good chance you'll have at least 1 loose one ready to spring a leak. I'm not the only 1 who's had them loosen up after initial install
Thank you for letting me know. I’ll make sure re-torque them.
 

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