I had IGLA for 5 Days. What you should know before installing.

BUT if IGLA fails for some reason then they have the means to start the vehicle.
Can you elaborate on this? You and this forum have convinced me to get IGLA and Compustar installed and I was thinking about leaving the factory fob hidden somewhere in the truck so I don't have to carry 2 fobs around. Since we all consider you the IGLA expert....have you seen it ever fail??
 
Can you elaborate on this? You and this forum have convinced me to get IGLA and Compustar installed and I was thinking about leaving the factory fob hidden somewhere in the truck so I don't have to carry 2 fobs around. Since we all consider you the IGLA expert....have you seen it ever fail??
One person here I think had one that was acting up and got swapped out. Everything can fail. I need to give all disclaimers even if there is a slim chance. IF it failed then the oem fob would be in the vehicle.
 
IF you have a full compustar AND IGLA in a trx then you can carry oem fob and use the drone app (annoying and need service 100% of the time) oem fob and compustar or all 3. You can “technically” carry just compustar and leave the oem fob in the vehicle BUT if IGLA fails for some reason then they have the means to start the vehicle. Having a keylocker is a better option. You do not need to carry an IGLA fob, pincode only is highly recommended
So wait, with the Compustar system you leave the OEM fob in the car? How is that even remotely secure. What am I missing? Why doesn't a thief just break a window, grab the fob and they now have the truck! Even with a key locker, an angle grinder would get that open in 2 minutes. I suppose that is why you need to have IGLA so that the truck can't be moved without entering the button combo. Seems to me that having Compustar opens up a very large security hole.

I'm assuming IGLA doesn't require the fob to be left in the car, correct?
 
So wait, with the Compustar system you leave the OEM fob in the car? How is that even remotely secure. What am I missing? Why doesn't a thief just break a window, grab the fob and they now have the truck! Even with a key locker, an angle grinder would get that open in 2 minutes. I suppose that is why you need to have IGLA so that the truck can't be moved without entering the button combo. Seems to me that having Compustar opens up a very large security hole.

I'm assuming IGLA doesn't require the fob to be left in the car, correct?
As stated you need IGLA AND compustar to do this. You cannot start and drive with IGLA installed and if the compustar is setup correctly the alarm will be sounding. You cannot leave the fob in it with just compustar or just IGLA. Thats why I recommended the keylocker with a full pack install
 
As stated you need IGLA AND compustar to do this. You cannot start and drive with IGLA installed and if the compustar is setup correctly the alarm will be sounding. You cannot leave the fob in it with just compustar or just IGLA. Thats why I recommended the keylocker with a full pack install
With the guidance of Air'd outSRT and a few other forum members, this is the exact install I have and to me it is the best of all worlds. The key locker is made by the same company as Compustar/Drone and integrates seamlessly. Make sure to upgrade the DRONE to the model with battery backup...so even if power is cut you can monitor your vehicle for ~2 days. My key locker was installed in the center console, inside of a console Vault. The battery is removed from the factory key and replaced with a direct wire that provides power to the key, only momentarily at the request of the Compustar (it's not broadcasting the signal). If somebody where to grab the signal in that split second...IGLA would render cloning the key useless anyway. I have the mini IGLA fob (1/3 the size of the computer remote w/no buttons..this makes it so you don't need to enter a code every time you want to start your truck) and computer LCD remote on my keychain...the two are lower profile than factory key fob and you preserve remote start, the fob works via encrypted LTE signal (miles of range) and the remote is 2-way (so you can confirm what state your car is in visually on the fob) and the DRONE app is amazing for controlling the systems, monitoring voltage and a very solid GPS tracking tool that you can set up geofences on (to text you if your TRX leaves your home or work). Yes, it is alot of money (mine was about $3, 500 installed if I remember correctly)...but it provides absolute peace of mind to protect a $100k truck that you can not likely replace going forward.
 
With the guidance of Air'd outSRT and a few other forum members, this is the exact install I have and to me it is the best of all worlds. The key locker is made by the same company as Compustar/Drone and integrates seamlessly. Make sure to upgrade the DRONE to the model with battery backup...so even if power is cut you can monitor your vehicle for ~2 days. My key locker was installed in the center console, inside of a console Vault. The battery is removed from the factory key and replaced with a direct wire that provides power to the key, only momentarily at the request of the Compustar (it's not broadcasting the signal). If somebody where to grab the signal in that split second...IGLA would render cloning the key useless anyway. I have the mini IGLA fob (1/3 the size of the computer remote w/no buttons..this makes it so you don't need to enter a code every time you want to start your truck) and computer LCD remote on my keychain...the two are lower profile than factory key fob and you preserve remote start, the fob works via encrypted LTE signal (miles of range) and the remote is 2-way (so you can confirm what state your car is in visually on the fob) and the DRONE app is amazing for controlling the systems, monitoring voltage and a very solid GPS tracking tool that you can set up geofences on (to text you if your TRX leaves your home or work). Yes, it is alot of money (mine was about $3, 500 installed if I remember correctly)...but it provides absolute peace of mind to protect a $100k truck that you can not likely replace going forward.
This is super helpful info. Now I need to decide if I want to spend that much money on this setup.
 
Just wanted to share a recent experience, maybe get some feedback - and for the record Air'd out was an immense help in getting my TRX back on the road AND I intend to get an ingla.

I was using a Tazer DT for a number of features. I enabled the PIN mode because... why not. Consequently my RF Hub got fried (that's why not.)

While waiting for a tow truck to pick up my truck I mentioned to the tow truck company that I couldn't get the e-brake to release. He said he "knows a guy" a licensed locksmith who could re-program keys, or make keys, or start without the keys. I look the guy up, he's legit, has a god business here in Denver, actually does work for the dealerships. He says he won't charge me if he can't get the truck started. Air'd out SRT had already given me a procedure for getting the rear brakes released, but I thought I'd give the locksmith guy a try before I did it.

Locksmith guy shows up. Plugs in one tablet, can't communicate with truck. Plugs in another tablet (both to ODB port) and he can read truck, but can't do anything else. Plugs in a third machine bypassing the security gateway. He still can't see the currently programmed keys, program a new key, or get the ignition into ACC or RUN mode. Says he may still be able to release the e-brake. He failed at that as well. We shook hands and parted ways, no $$ exchanged.

My point to all this... If I simply pull the fuse for the RF Hub, then the truck can't see the keys, even if one has been cloned, or a new one programmed. If the e-brake is on when I pull that fuse then there's no way to release the e-brake without significant effort... the truck will never get past the "push to start" screen without the RF Hub, at least not by the typical thief. Am I wrong?

I'm still getting an Igla, but help me understand what I missing here! No RF Hub = no way to start truck, right?
 
Just wanted to share a recent experience, maybe get some feedback - and for the record Air'd out was an immense help in getting my TRX back on the road AND I intend to get an ingla.

I was using a Tazer DT for a number of features. I enabled the PIN mode because... why not. Consequently my RF Hub got fried (that's why not.)

While waiting for a tow truck to pick up my truck I mentioned to the tow truck company that I couldn't get the e-brake to release. He said he "knows a guy" a licensed locksmith who could re-program keys, or make keys, or start without the keys. I look the guy up, he's legit, has a god business here in Denver, actually does work for the dealerships. He says he won't charge me if he can't get the truck started. Air'd out SRT had already given me a procedure for getting the rear brakes released, but I thought I'd give the locksmith guy a try before I did it.

Locksmith guy shows up. Plugs in one tablet, can't communicate with truck. Plugs in another tablet (both to ODB port) and he can read truck, but can't do anything else. Plugs in a third machine bypassing the security gateway. He still can't see the currently programmed keys, program a new key, or get the ignition into ACC or RUN mode. Says he may still be able to release the e-brake. He failed at that as well. We shook hands and parted ways, no $$ exchanged.

My point to all this... If I simply pull the fuse for the RF Hub, then the truck can't see the keys, even if one has been cloned, or a new one programmed. If the e-brake is on when I pull that fuse then there's no way to release the e-brake without significant effort... the truck will never get past the "push to start" screen without the RF Hub, at least not by the typical thief. Am I wrong?

I'm still getting an Igla, but help me understand what I missing here! No RF Hub = no way to start truck, right?
Technically yes but pulling a fuse, especially over and over is not a good thing to do and can actually cause gaps, heat and a fire over time. Colorado car audio isn’t far from you. IGLA is a far better option than pulling fuses or waiting for a thief to pull the one next to it or using a jumper
 
Technically yes but pulling a fuse, especially over and over is not a good thing to do and can actually cause gaps, heat and a fire over time. Colorado car audio isn’t far from you. IGLA is a far better option than pulling fuses or waiting for a thief to pull the one next to it or using a jumper
Makes sense. Just got truck back today, super fast turn around, wasn’t expecting that. Will be giving CO Car Audio a call tomorrow. Thx!
 
Technically yes but pulling a fuse, especially over and over is not a good thing to do and can actually cause gaps, heat and a fire over time. Colorado car audio isn’t far from you. IGLA is a far better option than pulling fuses or waiting for a thief to pull the one next to it or using a jumper
CO Car Audio are really super solid & ethical dudes, you can trust them with your TRX Security, Car Audio and ticket evasion needs!
 
Just wanted to share a recent experience, maybe get some feedback - and for the record Air'd out was an immense help in getting my TRX back on the road AND I intend to get an ingla.

I was using a Tazer DT for a number of features. I enabled the PIN mode because... why not. Consequently my RF Hub got fried (that's why not.)

While waiting for a tow truck to pick up my truck I mentioned to the tow truck company that I couldn't get the e-brake to release. He said he "knows a guy" a licensed locksmith who could re-program keys, or make keys, or start without the keys. I look the guy up, he's legit, has a god business here in Denver, actually does work for the dealerships. He says he won't charge me if he can't get the truck started. Air'd out SRT had already given me a procedure for getting the rear brakes released, but I thought I'd give the locksmith guy a try before I did it.

Locksmith guy shows up. Plugs in one tablet, can't communicate with truck. Plugs in another tablet (both to ODB port) and he can read truck, but can't do anything else. Plugs in a third machine bypassing the security gateway. He still can't see the currently programmed keys, program a new key, or get the ignition into ACC or RUN mode. Says he may still be able to release the e-brake. He failed at that as well. We shook hands and parted ways, no $$ exchanged.

My point to all this... If I simply pull the fuse for the RF Hub, then the truck can't see the keys, even if one has been cloned, or a new one programmed. If the e-brake is on when I pull that fuse then there's no way to release the e-brake without significant effort... the truck will never get past the "push to start" screen without the RF Hub, at least not by the typical thief. Am I wrong?

I'm still getting an Igla, but help me understand what I missing here! No RF Hub = no way to start truck, right?
Hey there. Give us a call at Colorado Car Audio. Zack, (my main tech/sales guy) will answer any and all of your questions so we can put together the best option for you and your TRX. 720-638-0681.
 
IF you have a full compustar AND IGLA in a trx then you can carry oem fob and use the drone app (annoying and need service 100% of the time) oem fob and compustar or all 3. You can “technically” carry just compustar and leave the oem fob in the vehicle BUT if IGLA fails for some reason then they have the means to start the vehicle. Having a keylocker is a better option. You do not need to carry an IGLA fob, pincode only is highly recommended
Well, I had a short run of it. Had IGLA and Compustar w/ key locker installed and it was super wonky. Worked sometimes, and not others. Symptom I experienced is that when I went to start the vehicle it would tell me the fob was not detected. Starting it remotely seemed to work consistently but when pressing on the brake the engine would stop. Only way to start the vehicle was to push the start button with the OEM remote. Nothing else would get it to start and stay started.

Other symptoms - the proximity feature to lock/unlock the vehicle only worked a couple times and then it stopped working. The keylocker system never seemed to work. Showed present on the app and the LED lights would light up when touching buttons but it never actually was able to unlock the doors with just the touchpad. And one last very small annoyance - I only had the system installed for a couple weeks and in that time I had to charge the Compustar remote twice. It definitely doesn't hold a charge very long. That would definitely have been annoying over time to have to always be worried about it losing it's charge so quickly.

Bottom line is that none of it was reliable so had to have it all removed because I don't want to be in a situation where I don't have the OEM key handy and if I have to bring the OEM key with me it defeats the purpose of the whole system. Had it looked at and reviewed and inspected for a whole day at the installer and they couldn't figure out why it was so wonky so had the whole setup removed. Installer was super helpful in trying to figure out what the issue was, but never came to any resolution that got the whole thing working.
 
Well, I had a short run of it. Had IGLA and Compustar w/ key locker installed and it was super wonky. Worked sometimes, and not others. Symptom I experienced is that when I went to start the vehicle it would tell me the fob was not detected. Starting it remotely seemed to work consistently but when pressing on the brake the engine would stop. Only way to start the vehicle was to push the start button with the OEM remote. Nothing else would get it to start and stay started.

Other symptoms - the proximity feature to lock/unlock the vehicle only worked a couple times and then it stopped working. The keylocker system never seemed to work. Showed present on the app and the LED lights would light up when touching buttons but it never actually was able to unlock the doors with just the touchpad. And one last very small annoyance - I only had the system installed for a couple weeks and in that time I had to charge the Compustar remote twice. It definitely doesn't hold a charge very long. That would definitely have been annoying over time to have to always be worried about it losing it's charge so quickly.

Bottom line is that none of it was reliable so had to have it all removed because I don't want to be in a situation where I don't have the OEM key handy and if I have to bring the OEM key with me it defeats the purpose of the whole system. Had it looked at and reviewed and inspected for a whole day at the installer and they couldn't figure out why it was so wonky so had the whole setup removed. Installer was super helpful in trying to figure out what the issue was, but never came to any resolution that got the whole thing working.
So I get removing Compustar and the key locker - but why yank the IGLA? It had nothing to do with those issues.
 
Well, I had a short run of it. Had IGLA and Compustar w/ key locker installed and it was super wonky. Worked sometimes, and not others. Symptom I experienced is that when I went to start the vehicle it would tell me the fob was not detected. Starting it remotely seemed to work consistently but when pressing on the brake the engine would stop. Only way to start the vehicle was to push the start button with the OEM remote. Nothing else would get it to start and stay started.

Other symptoms - the proximity feature to lock/unlock the vehicle only worked a couple times and then it stopped working. The keylocker system never seemed to work. Showed present on the app and the LED lights would light up when touching buttons but it never actually was able to unlock the doors with just the touchpad. And one last very small annoyance - I only had the system installed for a couple weeks and in that time I had to charge the Compustar remote twice. It definitely doesn't hold a charge very long. That would definitely have been annoying over time to have to always be worried about it losing it's charge so quickly.

Bottom line is that none of it was reliable so had to have it all removed because I don't want to be in a situation where I don't have the OEM key handy and if I have to bring the OEM key with me it defeats the purpose of the whole system. Had it looked at and reviewed and inspected for a whole day at the installer and they couldn't figure out why it was so wonky so had the whole setup removed. Installer was super helpful in trying to figure out what the issue was, but never came to any resolution that got the whole thing working.

out of curiosity did you ever talk to @Air’d outSRT about the issues you were having by chance?
 
Well, I had a short run of it. Had IGLA and Compustar w/ key locker installed and it was super wonky. Worked sometimes, and not others. Symptom I experienced is that when I went to start the vehicle it would tell me the fob was not detected. Starting it remotely seemed to work consistently but when pressing on the brake the engine would stop. Only way to start the vehicle was to push the start button with the OEM remote. Nothing else would get it to start and stay started.

Other symptoms - the proximity feature to lock/unlock the vehicle only worked a couple times and then it stopped working. The keylocker system never seemed to work. Showed present on the app and the LED lights would light up when touching buttons but it never actually was able to unlock the doors with just the touchpad. And one last very small annoyance - I only had the system installed for a couple weeks and in that time I had to charge the Compustar remote twice. It definitely doesn't hold a charge very long. That would definitely have been annoying over time to have to always be worried about it losing it's charge so quickly.

Bottom line is that none of it was reliable so had to have it all removed because I don't want to be in a situation where I don't have the OEM key handy and if I have to bring the OEM key with me it defeats the purpose of the whole system. Had it looked at and reviewed and inspected for a whole day at the installer and they couldn't figure out why it was so wonky so had the whole setup removed. Installer was super helpful in trying to figure out what the issue was, but never came to any resolution that got the whole thing working.
The compustar issue had nothing to do with IGLA, not sure why you removed the actual anti theft because of issues with a deterrent
 
IGLA is a fantastic alarm system that is very secure. It also fundamentally alters the way you start your truck. You should know the trade-offs before deciding to opt for it.

I had IGLA installed for 4 days before I decided I didn't really like it. Here's the problem: I make lots of small trips to different sites in my truck. It's my DD. I probably start it, on average, 6 times a day. Sometimes up to 10. That's just life and I enjoy the hell out of driving the TRX. When I start my truck I jump in, press the red button, buckle my seatbelt, and go. IGLA kills that ability. Now it's not that big a hassle either. It's about a 10 second commitment at every startup. But imagine running through your day at full speed and then someone puts the brakes on for an all stop for 10 seconds. It's not life-changing, but it's annoying. And it's due to something you decided to install.

So when you start your truck with IGLA you first have to wait for the gauges to "sweep" before you enter your PIN. Then enter your PIN. Then you you get the double hazard light blink that it was accepted, and now you're ready to go. Again, approximately 10 seconds in my seat of the pants estimation. Here's the kicker: if you don't wait long enough for the gauges to fully sweep, and you enter your PIN too early, then the truck will start, but it will throw an error on the dash. Mine would say "service active damping system. offroad maneuvers limited." I don't like this at all. I don't like electronic error messages from my truck. That means I need to fix something. But these were self-imposed from an alarm system I decided to install, which felt terrible. So I decided to use the fob that comes with IGLA. It is supposed to completely bypass the security system when it's inside the truck. When using remote start, this was great. I remote start from 30 seconds out, jump in the truck, and by the time I've buckled up and put it in drive, the fob and IGLA had done their thing. This seemed perfect! It was also my solution for taking the TRX in for service. I don't know about you guys, but I am not confident in RAM service centers to be able to use a PIN to start my truck, even after I explain it and train the service manager. It just isn't going to get disseminated to the workers and getting my truck serviced will be difficult. So I was hot on using the fobs, even though they reduce the security posture...until the fobs stopped working on day 3. Both of them. With new batteries installed in them.

So if the fobs aren't 100% reliable then I can't trust them at all. So the fobs are out for me. You can setup your smart phone to authenticate. That sounded promising. But I'm still out of luck regarding taking it in for service.

Also, my wife needs to be able to drive the truck from time to time. I trained her on the PIN entry. But driving it once every 6 weeks, how feasible is it for her to remember the timing required, wait for the gauges to sweep, and not get error messages? And are the error messages real errors where something isn't working correctly? Or are they just electronic errors from the mis-timed communication? I don't know. And I don't want to have to figure it out.

So I had IGLA removed. When I did my part it worked perfectly. And I am sure it is very secure. I just do not want that level of security at the expense of daily convenience. That's my personal risk/convenience posture, and I'm OK with it. I did not realize any of this before opting for IGLA. So I wanted everyone here to be in the know. You may think the IGLA intrusion is tiny, and doesn't bother you at all, and you wouldn't drive your TRX without it. To you I say, rock on, brother. I'm glad it works for you and gives you the peace of mind you want. For me, I just didn't enjoy it. And I have this truck so I can enjoy it.

Disclaimer: I know the prevailing attitude here on this forum. If you want to think me an idiot for not liking IGLA and wishing to accept the risk of theft rather than experience the mild inconvenience of IGLA, I'm fine with that. I'm 40-something years old. I know myself, and I know I am happier using my truck without it. If my truck is stolen then I have a generous insurance policy on it. And I won't be able to immediately get into another TRX. I'll have to drive something normal for a few months. I'm OK with all of that. So I'm eyes wide open here. My truck is vulnerable to theft. I get it. I'm making the fully informed decision that I would rather use the truck quickly without intervention at every startup and risk theft rather than be inconvenienced every startup.
Thank you! I was on the fence before reading this. I also am not sure how this would go over at my service dealership.
 
Thank you! I was on the fence before reading this. I also am not sure how this would go over at my service dealership.
I have mine serviced as needed with IGLA and it’s never a problem - nor is it a problem to start my vehicle - on the other hand you won’t see me reporting a drive off theft on this forum like so many do that don’t have IGLA.
 
Thank you! I was on the fence before reading this. I also am not sure how this would go over at my service dealership.
The service centers cannot say anything about it or void the warranty if it is in service mode when they are servicing it. The person you quoted complained about Bluetooth connectivity and didn’t want to update it so instead they removed it because pressing 3-20 buttons in 5 seconds was too much for them. Instead they would rather leave it unprotected. New IGLA’s are updated before we get them.
 
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