FI Interchiller Install w/Aftermarket front bumper

[217TRX]

@916Ghost @217TRX @HVACog

Is it possible that we needed to have the switch/solenoid open when we pulled the initial vacuum before charging the system with refrigerant? It would make sense that we would need to have the entire system open to be vacuumed; otherwise, a portion of the system could have been filled with trapped air. This was not in the installation instructions, however

I never thought of that but it’s a good possibility. I can get my IC temps down to 28-30° but I’ve seen others with lower numbers. I’ll probably recharge mine this spring and try that.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Genius!

Also forgot to ask if I should run the cabin heat during the recharge or only before it? I’m going to attempt to do it all over again without heat, but if I’m not able to get enough into the system, Ill try heat.

You can even just use a magnet to open it tbh

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

I’m an hvac guy, though resi HVAC. These guys are giving you great tips. The bubbles in sight glass doesn’t mean it’s air, that just means you don’t have a full liquid column hence low on charge.

Increase the load (run heat for awhile to get the cabin nice and toasty) it will increase the load on the evaporator coil which in turn allow more refrigerant in the system.

Heating the can up a bit in warm water can help, don’t use a torch lol.

Lastly, the condensing fan shut off is a good idea too because that will simulate a hotter day.

You got this almost there !!!

Should I run in the cabin heat during the recharge or just/only before it?

 

[217TRX]

Should I run in the cabin heat during the recharge or just/only before it?

I would think just when the cabin temp drops. You want the truck to think you need as much a/c as possible

 

[Crunch12268]

Nice work and thanks for the write up!

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Literally got everything ready to go including pulling vacuum for 45 mins and go to recharge and the can tap wont pierce the can. These are self-sealing cans (unlike the disposables from yesterday). Tried several cans and 2 can taps for self-sealing cans. No luck.

Said F it and went to try my disposable can that's half empty...that wont work either. Have 3 can taps for disposable cans and nada (not even the one i used yesterday). I'm losing my F'in mind right now!

Got the wife getting 4 fresh cans and a fresh can tap. Stand by for a 48 hour rain storm that's 5 miles away. Check out my ghetto gazebo haha

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Literally got everything ready to go including pulling vacuum for 45 mins and go to recharge and the can tap wont pierce the can. These are self-sealing cans (unlike the disposables from yesterday). Tried several cans and 2 can taps for self-sealing cans. No luck.

Said F it and went to try my disposable can that's half empty...that wont work either. Have 3 can taps for disposable cans and nada (not even the one i used yesterday). I'm losing my F'in mind right now!

Got the wife getting 4 fresh cans and a fresh can tap. Stand by for a 48 hour rain storm that's 5 miles away. Check out my ghetto gazebo haha

View attachment 117779

Good lord

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Someone please answer this question for me:
when I’m vacuuming down the system, do I need to have the low and high-pressure lines hooked up, and the low and high-pressure valves open? I’ve only been vacuuming via the low pressure port.

 

[HVACog]

Someone please answer this question for me:
when I’m vacuuming down the system, do I need to have the low and high-pressure lines hooked up, and the low and high-pressure valves open? I’ve only been vacuuming via the low pressure port.

Both is quicker.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Both is quicker.

k thx.

Im doing something wrong on filling b/c this 2nd attempt (with working cans and can taps) we only got half a can in (total). Even fired the truck up and still wouldnt take any more.

Decided to bleed the whole system and vacuum it down and try again. Vacuuming on high and low for Ss & Gs

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

I never thought of that but it’s a good possibility. I can get my IC temps down to 28-30° but I’ve seen others with lower numbers. I’ll probably recharge mine this spring and try that.

that's dam cold tho man. I imagine chiller only mode right?

Mine went down to 35 after only being on a few minutes (and with 200g missing in refrigerant).

Did you add extra insulation on the hoses running in the engine bay? I added a bunch since testing the system yesterday. There are 2 heater hoses running parallel to each other to the back of the blower - they both can use insulation. Just dont insulate the warm ones running to the engine coolant rezzy. The 2 parallell are cold to the touch. It's a tight squeeze for sure but i jammed some foam around em where i could

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Well, we failed again! We’re having issues with the Can taps, etc. Long story short we probably got somewhere around 500 to 600 g in the system and that was really really tough to get in and required heating of the cans and running the heat, quite a bit inside the cabin. The worst part, however, is that there is NO COLD AIR COMING FROM VENTS WHATSOEVER. I also saw a high side compression of 300 psi at one point.

Any ideas for what may have happened? I’m hoping I just ended up introducing a whole bunch of air into the system on accident Via having to take the cans off 100 times to get them to flow properly but perhaps there’s a fuse or something I blew? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am basically at the point where I’m just gonna bring it to someone But if I blew a fuse or something worse, I’d like to get that remedied or identified before bringing to an AC pro.

 

[HVACog]

Or get a tank of 134a locally on fb marketplace. Avoid using those stupid cans. Sorry bro. The local shop may have a charging/vacuum machine all in one. They take a long time but it will charge it on point

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Or get a tank of 134a locally on fb marketplace. Avoid using those stupid cans. Sorry bro. The local shop may have a charging/vacuum machine all in one. They take a long time but it will charge it on point

How much would it cost to fly you or Ghost down there to help?

 

[217TRX]

that's dam cold tho man. I imagine chiller only mode right?

Mine went down to 35 after only being on a few minutes (and with 200g missing in refrigerant).

Did you add extra insulation on the hoses running in the engine bay? I added a bunch since testing the system yesterday. There are 2 heater hoses running parallel to each other to the back of the blower - they both can use insulation. Just dont insulate the warm ones running to the engine coolant rezzy. The 2 parallell are cold to the touch. It's a tight squeeze for sure but i jammed some foam around em where i could

I didn’t add any insulation. I fabbed up and installed a 3 gallon reservoir and upgraded the pump so my lines are a little different than yours. I planned on replacing all lines with -12an hoses but never got around to it.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

I didn’t add any insulation. I fabbed up and installed a 3 gallon reservoir and upgraded the pump so my lines are a little different than yours. I planned on replacing all lines with -12an hoses but never got around to it.

Which pump you running? What is the diff with the 12an hoses? Bigger ID?

 

[217TRX]

Which pump you running? What is the diff with the 12an hoses? Bigger ID?

Whatever pump Kirk has. I believe he now has the fittings on it to hook up to the OEM lines. That would of made it a lot easier.

Yea I think -12 is like 3/4” id. Maybe that’s what’s on it and I was looking at -16an or 1”… I was just going to go up a size.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Ok so we attempted to charge the system and here’s what happened:

• While truck ignition on (not running) = Got 1 full can in (approx. 320grams of R-134 give or take. We weighed the can before and after)
  • Got 2nd can hooked up and the truck only took a few grams of can #2.
  • Fired truck up and raised idle = got some more in but not much
  • Tried spraying condenser with garden hose (no change)
  • Drier sight glass is full of bubbles

• Turned switch on to activate chiller AND cabin
  • Got the rest of the 2nd can in = approx. 326grams of R-134 (total of 646 grams installed in system at this point)
  • Drier sight glass is full of bubbles

• Hooked Can #3 up and forgot to purge the air in the line (is this a huge problem necessitating a total system evac?)
  • Got a few grams in and then it wouldn’t take more so I shut the low side fill port valve.
  • Raised idle/etc and re-opened the valve and it took a few more grams.
  • Repeated this 4-5 times until the truck wouldn’t take any more refrigerant.
  • Total from Can #3 = approx. 60-65 grams
  • Drier sight glass is still full of bubbles

• Checked pressures before shutting truck off:
  • Low side = approx. 25-30
  • High side = approx. 132
  • Ambient = 76-78 degrees

• Shut truck off

• GRAND TOTAL OF REFRIGERANT INSTALLED = Approx. 710grams (way less than the 930grams in the installation instructions)
  • AC is ice cold inside truck (a bit colder than OEM)
  • OEM Hard metal suction line is condensating and about as cold as a beer can that was taken out of fridge and put outside for 1 minute.
  • IC Coolant temp is 35 degrees in chiller only
  • However, the drier sight glass is full of bubbles

Any advice on what to do? I imagine a lot more refrigerant needs to be added right??!

Hoping @217TRX or @AZDinoPwr can chime in too. Already emailed Kirk twice

View attachment 117700

Just getting around to seeing this request but looks like you have gotten some great advice so far.

Given the recent issues I would make sure the ac compressor is actually engaging and you didn’t pop that fuse. Also confirm the solenoid is open.

But tbh, this is why I am having a shop do the recharge and not mess with the small cans. Heard too many horror stories.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Just getting around to seeing this request but looks like you have gotten some great advice so far.

Given the recent issues I would make sure the ac compressor is actually engaging and you didn’t pop that fuse. Also confirm the solenoid is open.

But tbh, this is why I am having a shop do the recharge and not mess with the small cans. Heard too many horror stories.

So I've confirmed the AC comp is engaging (including clutch) and the solenoid is opening and closing as it should.

Funny you mention the shop - i spent from 1030am to 430pm at a local shop. End result is as follows (will need some advice):

• Filled with R-1234-YF (dont ask)
• Ambient 59 degrees
• AC is ice cold in truck
• Chiller/suction line is nice and frosty
  • 42-46degrees with cabin/chiller on
  • Low 30s with cabin off
• Low pressure: approx. 25-35
• **High pressure: 80-82**
  • Was able to get the high side compression up a little (from 75) after adding quite a bit of refrigerant. But couldnt get it higher until i put a piece of a yoga mat to block the OEM fan. Then it jumped to 100psi (still a bit low - should be closer to 120 based on ambient)
• no bubbles in drier
• no idea how much refrigerant we added b/c the machine was being a piece of shit

What happens if the high side compression is too low? How do i get it up? (insert plethora of 10th grade jokes here haha)

 

[916Ghost]

I think you should be good and see how it does when it starts to warm up.