FI Interchiller Install w/Aftermarket front bumper

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

If you set your ac lower than ambient temps it should work fine. Just because the fan is blowing doesn’t mean the compressor is running. Once the cabin gets below your set temp (70-71° in your case) it’s just circulating air. If you want the chiller to work then you have to make the truck think you need ac even if you don’t. From what I understand there is a humidity sensor in the cabin and even in the winter when you don’t need ac it will kick the compressor on to lower humidity to keep windows from fogging up… think I read that somewhere or may of just made that shit up haha. So when you put it in chiller only mode and the cabin stops getting conditioned air the humidity rises and in turn kicks the compressor on.

Yea i've read that humidity thing as well which is why i was thinking that it would kick on to keep humidity in check and, in turn, keep IC temps reasonably cool but i guess I was either wrong or the humidity never rose to the level of needing to kick the compressor on (windows never fogged). Either way, the ambient highs are in the 40s the next 2 days so I'll have to retest this theory when i get home. It sounds like a reasonable theory so i hope it's correct!!!

If it is, what are we supposed to do in the winter when ambients are 40 or less? Just let IC/IATs be high? I remember reading something in the manual about warming the cabin and then kicking the AC on to trick it to turning on temporarily. Doing that over and over again on a long trip sounds pretty redic IMO.

 

[217TRX]

Yea i've read that humidity thing as well which is why i was thinking that it would kick on to keep humidity in check and, in turn, keep IC temps reasonably cool but i guess I was either wrong or the humidity never rose to the level of needing to kick the compressor on (windows never fogged). Either way, the ambient highs are in the 40s the next 2 days so I'll have to retest this theory when i get home. It sounds like a reasonable theory so i hope it's correct!!!

If it is, what are we supposed to do in the winter when ambients are 40 or less? Just let IC/IATs be high? I remember reading something in the manual about warming the cabin and then kicking the AC on to trick it to turning on temporarily. Doing that over and over again on a long trip sounds pretty redic IMO.

Right now it’s 30-40° ambient around here and ic temps stay around 90-100° while cruising. Maybe gets up to 120° ish when I’m in “traffic”. Not much traffic around these parts lol. Honestly I usually don’t even think to look at my ic temps unless I’m looking for a race. If I happen to notice temps rising I will just put it in chiller only mode for a while and turn the ac on max. The gf bitches about being cold but what’s new. It’s not my dd so it doesn’t bother me much but I can see where it would get old.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Right now it’s 30-40° ambient around here and ic temps stay around 90-100° while cruising. Maybe gets up to 120° ish when I’m in “traffic”. Not much traffic around these parts lol. Honestly I usually don’t even think to look at my ic temps unless I’m looking for a race. If I happen to notice temps rising I will just put it in chiller only mode for a while and turn the ac on max. The gf bitches about being cold but what’s new. It’s not my dd so it doesn’t bother me much but I can see where it would get old.

Ok so you're seeing 90-100 IC temps with cabin mode on? Assuming so, this is really good info to know and seems to correlate well with what I was seeing yesterday and def makes me feel better

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Looks like the topic I was asking questions about has already been covered for the most part. The other thing to keep in mind is that the compressor is switched off when there is a risk of freeze over. Try running the inside fans on high (at your feet) and see if that helps keep the compressor on longer.

I believe overall this topic highlights my one area where I disagree with Kirk at FI. They recommend pulling the stock heat exchanger completely. In these situations having the stock heat exchanger on a temp sensing valve would work well (as others have done). That said, for the stage 2 kit, I’m not sure the stock heat exchanger would still fit.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

There is literature on FI's website stating they can sell you a 4-port bypass valve to retain the heat exchanger. I'm thinking of going this route to use the heat exchanger during the winter times.

"In 99.99% of installs the customer is looking for all out drag racing, street racing and daily driving performance, so the front mount heat exchanger is deleted and replaced with the chiller and a reservoir. However should you wish to circuit race your car you may wish to retain your factory heat exchanger. For this we can supply a 4 port bypass valve which will give you ON/OFF control of when you use your heat exchanger. In most cases we recommend you simply delete the heat exchanger and don’t bother with the bypass valve. The reason for deleting the heat exchanger is simple, the intercooler fluid is so freezing cold that the front heat exchanger is no longer a cooling aid, it will actually heat up the intercooler fluid."

Yup they have it but recommend against it and with the stage 2 kit I’m not sure the stock heat exchanger will fit. I know the current sized fan would not fit.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Looks like the topic I was asking questions about has already been covered for the most part. The other thing to keep in mind is that the compressor is switched off when there is a risk of freeze over. Try running the inside fans on high (at your feet) and see if that helps keep the compressor on longer.

I believe overall this topic highlights my one area where I disagree with Kirk at FI. They recommend pulling the stock heat exchanger completely. In these situations having the stock heat exchanger on a temp sensing valve would work well (as others have done). That said, for the stage 2 kit, I’m not sure the stock heat exchanger would still fit.

I agree. I would've liked to have kept my OEM hx but i figured i was already pressed for space given the windshield washer rezzy relocation and the behind the grill lights/brackets. Turns out i was and it was a very tight fit with the bird's nest of AC lines. I almost couldnt get my grill back on because of the aftermarket bull bar, among everythign else.

RE foot fans on high - that's not a bad idea!

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I agree. I would've liked to have kept my OEM hx but i figured i was already pressed for space given the windshield washer rezzy relocation and the behind the grill lights/brackets. Turns out i was and it was a very tight fit with the bird's nest of AC lines. I almost couldnt get my grill back on because of the aftermarket bull bar, among everythign else.

RE foot fans on high - that's not a bad idea!

I don’t think it’s possible to fit with the provided fan but you could size down to fit within the cross members and not have to be sandwiched at all with the top brace.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

I don’t think it’s possible to fit with the provided fan but you could size down to fit within the cross members and not have to be sandwiched at all with the top brace.
View attachment 119161

Someone else will have to be the guinea pig for that setup. I’m not pulling my grill off again, even if my engine explodes. Not sure why I put my heat exchanger in the attic but then again I’m a junk hoarder.

On the other hand, I did wire my fan to run with ignition so when it bites the bullet, maybe I’ll install a smaller one and try to fit it.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Someone else will have to be the guinea pig for that setup. I’m not pulling my grill off again, even if my engine explodes. Not sure why I put my heat exchanger in the attic but then again I’m a junk hoarder.

On the other hand, I did wire my fan to run with ignition so when it bites the bullet, maybe I’ll install a smaller one and try to fit it.

You didn’t do the relay design recommended? I ended up switching 87 and 87a pins so it’s in normal cabin mode when the Aux isn’t on and then Aux ON is chiller only.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

You didn’t do the relay design recommended? I ended up switching 87 and 87a pins so it’s in normal cabin mode when the Aux isn’t on and then Aux ON is chiller only.

Nope. I’m in the no-tune club so I don’t have the luxury of tuning my intercooler pump to run at 100% duty cycle or my engine fans/etc. and since I’m in Satan‘s asshole (Florida), I figured I would run the fan all the time the truck is running to get a small edge.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Drove around 1200 miles in the last few days and here are my findings:

• 1/6: 57 Ambient. Chiller only mode
  
  • Custom mode: 57-59 deg IC coolant temp
  • Tow mode: 59 deg
  • Auto mode: 44-46 deg
  • Sport mode: 46 deg
  • Baja mode: 39-41 deg
  • Was very surprised Auto mode did so well. Since i usually run in custom mode with baja suspension/etc. I just changed my auto setting to baja suspension so i get the benefit of the lower IC coolant temps
• 
  
• IMPORTANT for HIGH HUMIDITY FOLKS: If you cruise in chiller only mode for long periods in high humidity areas, prepare for a bit of condensation to enter the cylinders while you're driving (not just when you shutdown). I found this out after about 90mins of cruising at 80mph. I went to hit the skinny pedal and all sorts of bog/surge/crackle/pop/etc (very upset sounding lol). I went WOT again a minute later and truck ran like a raped ape. Then Waited about 30 mins to WOT again and it bogged a smidge on 1st pull. 2nd pull = perfect. Then waited about 15 mins and went WOT and truck was normal. Moral of that story is give it a little boosty boost before you run anyone in Mexico if cruising in high humidity areas for more than 20+ mins.

 

[GenF-GTS]

Be sure to read the PDF on the USB stick called "My AC System is Turning OFF"

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

For anyone interested, you CAN run S&B intake + Forced Induction Interchiller + 3gal Rezzy tank + Brawler’s behind the grill lights + a Mighty mouse catch can (sealed top)

AND still keep your windshield washer rezzy lol

Not finished making everything pretty yet but it all fits and it all works.

 

[Username]

You didn’t do the relay design recommended? I ended up switching 87 and 87a pins so it’s in normal cabin mode when the Aux isn’t on and then Aux ON is chiller only.

How is the cabin AC this time of year in AZ with your FI Interchiller setup? I'm only seeing like 62 degrees at idle and like 52 at 2k rpms. Seems to take forever to cool down the cab in the afternoon..

 

[AZDinoPwr]

How is the cabin AC this time of year in AZ with your FI Interchiller setup? I'm only seeing like 62 degrees at idle and like 52 at 2k rpms. Seems to take forever to cool down the cab in the afternoon..

You referring to temp coming out of the blower vent?

 

[Username]

You referring to temp coming out of the blower vent?

Yes sir!

 

[AZDinoPwr]

Yes sir!

That’s about what I see on 110 deg day. There is no free lunch…biggest downside of the chiller IMO is that you lose some cabin performance. Think I might add some sound/thermal insulation to the cabin this fall to help actually.

 

[GenF-GTS]

As the TRX AC system is quite tapped out from factory this is why we strongly recommend the 1" hellcat spacers to reduce the amount of heat the chiller has to deal with, along with that we provide plenty of foam insulation sleeves which are to be used on: factory suction line from firewall to T-block fitting, from t-block fitting to AC compressor, and for the intercooler fluid lines.

When everything is insulated properly this adds up to quite a lot more cooling power potential.
Also keep in mind Max AC and Auto AC are both not to be used, you can achieve Max AC by simply setting it all the way cold and turning the fan speed on max.
If you also slow your fan speed down in the cab to medium this will blow out colder.