They are RRO - Rocky road outfitters. There is a debate on what constitutes true sliders (body or frame mounted or both). Without changing this thread to a spirited debate on sliders, I will just tell you that I spent the entire weekend pivoting on boulders via these sliders. They held the entire weight of the truck at certain times. They have some powdercoat missing on the bottom but are otherwise intact without damage. 100% highly recommend them.
Protect the rocker panels on your Ram TRX, Rebel, Warlock, or 1500 with Rock Sliders. Rocky Road's Ram Rock Sliders are bolton, and the one TRUE Rock Slider on the market for your RAM truck!
www.rocky-road.com
Great looking bumpers! Use this thread when a rock slider mounting debate happens.
LAST EDIT: 6/5/2023 This is a compilation of my research for rock sliders. I hope it can serve as a guide to others who are looking for the best product for themselves, as well as an avenue for others to add updated data as this forum grows and products develop. This post has undergone several...
wranglertjforum.com
Copy and paste from a well seasoned off-road builder, from this Jeep Wrangler thread:
My info will be biased towards actual use in the rocks where it matters and it will follow a set of general rules that one should adhere to when designing a slider system for the same application. Fair warning, if you do not have the need for a proper design rail, then ignore the rules and do whatever you like.
Do-
Use small fasteners and large quantities of them. The tub sheetmetal can be deformed and pulled outward simply by overtightening the very small 5mm bolts that hold the flares on. That means you have to adopt a fastening solution that functions in similar fashion to how they build airplanes.
Use an internal brace to sandwich the unsupported areas of the tub. Lots of small fasteners to spread the load out over as large of an area as possible and then an internal brace needs to be incorporated in the larger unsupported areas under the doors.
Use a slider that contacts the rocks which can be replaced without welding or replacing the whole assembly. We have seen far too many damaged tubes and slide rails that would cause you to replace the whole rock rail or cut and weld a new tube on.
Wheel well to wheel well is mandatory. The unprotected bits under the flares are in danger, protect them.
Go under the rig and get the torque box protected. We have crushed and mutilated the torque box many times and it has to be protected.
Don't
Ever use any part of the body mounts to mount a slider. That is dumb, shortsighted, and shows a very clear lack of understanding about what constitutes a proper level of mounting and protection for the rig.
Cut the corners of the rock rail into the corner armor. That leaves a small tab hanging that does shit for protecting anything. If it isn't wheel well to wheel well, don't use it.
Use a small number of big fasteners. The sheet metal isn't strong enough.
Miss areas because you don't want to install nutserts. Nutserts are good, use them to your benefit.
Hang down below the edge of the tub. Put two bends to go from the edge over to the torque box and then flatten out there. Otherwise, you are giving up precious ground clearance in an area you need it the most.
Put a tube step on a slider backer. The leverage from the step increases the rotational force against the slider and isn't good for anything or anyone.
Generally-
Put anti-seize on the countersunk part of a flat head. The surface area being large relative to the shank size is what causes problems.
Bolts on the underside away from the edge of the tub are not really an issue.
Slideability is dependent on radius size. The smaller the radius, the harder it is to slide against a rock. The worst is a sharp angle iron corner that digs in. The near best would be something about the size of the rear corner bend but that is obviously too large so keep the radius as generous as is feasible. Sharp bends are bad, don't use them.
Any rail that has a 90 degree bend at the bottom edge is not worth owning. Send it back.