Anyone try these sweet looking (not ADD) front/rear bumpers yet??

How many people would be legitimately interested in a group buy for the BodyGuard bumpers?


  • Total voters
    35
Seriously thinking about ordering the rear...
Looks great, and will get rid of the ridiculous rubber-plugged ball mount.
 
Love the look of these ones the best so far. The back bumpers from all the players so far all look good. I wish one of them would make a front bumper that resembled the shape/thickness of the factory front bumper. To further explain myself I'm not really into the tappered "ends" of the baja style bumpers showing all the tire and suspension from the front view. I much prefer a gnarly looking chunky full width across style front bumper. I know most people are into the baja style so that makes me the minority I guess lol.
 
Love the look of these ones the best so far. The back bumpers from all the players so far all look good. I wish one of them would make a front bumper that resembled the shape/thickness of the factory front bumper. To further explain myself I'm not really into the tappered "ends" of the baja style bumpers showing all the tire and suspension from the front view. I much prefer a gnarly looking chunky full width across style front bumper. I know most people are into the baja style so that makes me the minority I guess lol.
I agree. I'll prob just stick with the factory front. Just haven't seen anything I really like.
 
They are RRO - Rocky road outfitters. There is a debate on what constitutes true sliders (body or frame mounted or both). Without changing this thread to a spirited debate on sliders, I will just tell you that I spent the entire weekend pivoting on boulders via these sliders. They held the entire weight of the truck at certain times. They have some powdercoat missing on the bottom but are otherwise intact without damage. 100% highly recommend them.


Great looking bumpers! Use this thread when a rock slider mounting debate happens.

Copy and paste from a well seasoned off-road builder, from this Jeep Wrangler thread:​


My info will be biased towards actual use in the rocks where it matters and it will follow a set of general rules that one should adhere to when designing a slider system for the same application. Fair warning, if you do not have the need for a proper design rail, then ignore the rules and do whatever you like.

Do-
Use small fasteners and large quantities of them. The tub sheetmetal can be deformed and pulled outward simply by overtightening the very small 5mm bolts that hold the flares on. That means you have to adopt a fastening solution that functions in similar fashion to how they build airplanes.

Use an internal brace to sandwich the unsupported areas of the tub. Lots of small fasteners to spread the load out over as large of an area as possible and then an internal brace needs to be incorporated in the larger unsupported areas under the doors.

Use a slider that contacts the rocks which can be replaced without welding or replacing the whole assembly. We have seen far too many damaged tubes and slide rails that would cause you to replace the whole rock rail or cut and weld a new tube on.

Wheel well to wheel well is mandatory. The unprotected bits under the flares are in danger, protect them.

Go under the rig and get the torque box protected. We have crushed and mutilated the torque box many times and it has to be protected.

Don't
Ever use any part of the body mounts to mount a slider. That is dumb, shortsighted, and shows a very clear lack of understanding about what constitutes a proper level of mounting and protection for the rig.

Cut the corners of the rock rail into the corner armor. That leaves a small tab hanging that does shit for protecting anything. If it isn't wheel well to wheel well, don't use it.

Use a small number of big fasteners. The sheet metal isn't strong enough.

Miss areas because you don't want to install nutserts. Nutserts are good, use them to your benefit.

Hang down below the edge of the tub. Put two bends to go from the edge over to the torque box and then flatten out there. Otherwise, you are giving up precious ground clearance in an area you need it the most.

Put a tube step on a slider backer. The leverage from the step increases the rotational force against the slider and isn't good for anything or anyone.

Generally-
Put anti-seize on the countersunk part of a flat head. The surface area being large relative to the shank size is what causes problems.
Bolts on the underside away from the edge of the tub are not really an issue.

Slideability is dependent on radius size. The smaller the radius, the harder it is to slide against a rock. The worst is a sharp angle iron corner that digs in. The near best would be something about the size of the rear corner bend but that is obviously too large so keep the radius as generous as is feasible. Sharp bends are bad, don't use them.

Any rail that has a 90 degree bend at the bottom edge is not worth owning. Send it back.
 
Love the look of these ones the best so far. The back bumpers from all the players so far all look good. I wish one of them would make a front bumper that resembled the shape/thickness of the factory front bumper. To further explain myself I'm not really into the tappered "ends" of the baja style bumpers showing all the tire and suspension from the front view. I much prefer a gnarly looking chunky full width across style front bumper. I know most people are into the baja style so that makes me the minority I guess lol.
So the aftermarkets wil almost always be a more tight fit for better approach/departure angle. I personally like the stock chunky look the best but it does have limitations because of the angle. See below for example. If he had a lower profile rear bump, he wouldn’t have ripped his bumper off in the driver corner
 

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I agree. I'll prob just stick with the factory front. Just haven't seen anything I really like.
I was thinking the same thing, factory front upgraded rear. There's a fabrication and powder coating shop near me that does alot of custom fab work I might inquire about having a front one custom made? I guess I'll have to start sketching one out.
 
I was thinking the same thing, factory front upgraded rear. There's a fabrication and powder coating shop near me that does alot of custom fab work I might inquire about having a front one custom made? I guess I'll have to start sketching one out.
Deff post it if you go that route!
 
Looks like it sits just below the bottom of the brush bar so it may block a little of the upper view but the lower view (of the ground/terrain) looks unimpeded . Remember the front cam is angled downwards so i think we'd be fine View attachment 100899
Probably so, man that looks mean. I’m surely in for a group buy.
 
So the aftermarkets wil almost always be a more tight fit for better approach/departure angle. I personally like the stock chunky look the best but it does have limitations because of the angle. See below for example. If he had a lower profile rear bump, he wouldn’t have ripped his bumper off in the driver corner
I was really surprised earlier this week when I got on trails smaller than my truck and my front tires were laying over small trees and they weren't touching my bumper or body. I was also able to easily approach and climb rocks that used to hit my bumper. I gained about 4" of approach angle.
 
Well based on the thread poll, I couldnt report a lot of potential biz to entice them for a group buy discount so I went and pulled the trigger on the front bump a few days ago and said F it and ordered the rear yesterday too. I guess I'll have a ton of stuff to sell off my current front setup in a few weeks, e.g., Swarfworks winch mount, Brawler bar, light pods/etc. Cheers to dropping another $8k on this $100k+ truck lol.
 
Nice man. I hope it looks as good in real life as the pictures. Look forward to seeing it on your truck.
 
Well based on the thread poll, I couldnt report a lot of potential biz to entice them for a group buy discount so I went and pulled the trigger on the front bump a few days ago and said F it and ordered the rear yesterday too. I guess I'll have a ton of stuff to sell off my current front setup in a few weeks, e.g., Swarfworks winch mount, Brawler bar, light pods/etc. Cheers to dropping another $8k on this $100k+ truck lol.
how do you like the swarfworks winch mount, did it work well, any issues using it?
 
The bumpers are cool, but I have expensive taste. The front without the bull bar but with winch and lights is around $5,500. The rear is almost $2,100. These are both with bare metal as I’d have them sprayed with bedliner to match the truck. So $7,600 before bedliner and install. My wife is going to need to get another raise! :ROFLMAO:
 
how do you like the swarfworks winch mount, did it work well, any issues using it?
Swarf winch mount has been absolutely fantastic. Just used it at windrock as a leash to ensure a newbie didnt roll his rig lol
 
The bumpers are cool, but I have expensive taste. The front without the bull bar but with winch and lights is around $5,500. The rear is almost $2,100. These are both with bare metal as I’d have them sprayed with bedliner to match the truck. So $7,600 before bedliner and install. My wife is going to need to get another raise! :ROFLMAO:
So i did the front bumper with powder & black SS bolts for $3038 + cheap midnight series fogs, 20" led & 30" led (total of $320) = $3358. I also bought a rigid 20" but will probably go with the rough country black series purely for aesthetics. Light output wont be as good but it'll look dam good and the cost will be $300 vs. $2500 for the good stuff lol. I've used all brands of led bars and know the pros/cons. For my side by sides, I use Baja designs because i'm frequently traveling in excess of 90 mph in the whoop sections at night lol. In the Rex, I'm not doing 80mph at night unless on paved roads lol

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Screenshot 2023-06-22 at 8.55.27 AM.webp
 
Well based on the thread poll, I couldnt report a lot of potential biz to entice them for a group buy discount so I went and pulled the trigger on the front bump a few days ago and said F it and ordered the rear yesterday too. I guess I'll have a ton of stuff to sell off my current front setup in a few weeks, e.g., Swarfworks winch mount, Brawler bar, light pods/etc. Cheers to dropping another $8k on this $100k+ truck lol.
That's what I like to see.

I figured that I may as well just get high end lights when I did mine. I want to say that it cost me around 6k for the two ADD bumpers, winch kit and lights.

How are they addressing the oil cooler? I know the Swarf uses a secondary fan. The ADD doesn't use anything but I guess the front end is way more open for airflow. My temps ran lower than normal last time on the trail.

I'm a little Jelly, I would have liked one of those.
 

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