*47* RAM TRX / HELLCAT OIL FILTERS CUT & COMPARED

What is your pick of the bunch?


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I’m pretty rough on the truck too lol but how much thicker can you go ? Or what
0w-40 0w-50 5w-50. I'm not sure if a 10 or 15w might be problematic for cold starts. I've run 20w-50 on dirtbikes/UTVs/etc but probably wouldn't do that on the Rex. Then again, if OnTheReel ventures down that path, Id probably follow him all the way to a 75w140 and buy my engine and rear axle oil in bulk :ROFLMAO:
 
0w-40 0w-50 5w-50. I'm not sure if a 10 or 15w might be problematic for cold starts. I've run 20w-50 on dirtbikes/UTVs/etc but probably wouldn't do that on the Rex. Then again, if OnTheReel ventures down that path, Id probably follow him all the way to a 75w140 and buy my engine and rear axle oil in bulk :ROFLMAO:
Grading system is different so 75w140 gear oil would actually be pretty close in viscosity to a 10w60 engine oil. Slightly thicker. Not recommending it, just letting you know that isn’t as far off as it seems!

I really can’t imagine any reason to go above 5w50 based on what I’ve seen. When it comes to preventing internal parts from touching each other, an inch is as good as a mile. If things aren’t wearing with an 5w50, a 10w60 obviously can’t improve on that in any operating conditions we would ever see. The factory 0w40, on the other hand, did leave us some room for improvement. The wear rates never lie.
 
Great thread! Awesome info. I'm a stock oil filter with Amsoil Synthetic Oil all day long kinda guy. This combo performs well in the summer desert heat. I change oil and filter every 3k miles. Only negative thoughts is stay away from Fram. I've had awful experiences with Fram filters busting oil lines. I stay away from them
 
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Grading system is different so 75w140 gear oil would actually be pretty close in viscosity to a 10w60 engine oil. Slightly thicker. Not recommending it, just letting you know that isn’t as far off as it seems!

I really can’t imagine any reason to go above 5w50 based on what I’ve seen. When it comes to preventing internal parts from touching each other, an inch is as good as a mile. If things aren’t wearing with an 5w50, a 10w60 obviously can’t improve on that in any operating conditions we would ever see. The factory 0w40, on the other hand, did leave us some room for improvement. The wear rates never lie.
And there we go hahaha!! I'm off to 140w :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Good call on the viscosity grading though i 100% forgot about that!
 
Great thread! Awesome info. I'm a stock oil filter with Amsoil Synthetic Oil all day long kinda guy. This combo performs well in the summer desert heat. I change oil and filter every 3k miles. Only negative thoughts is stay away from Fram. I've had awful experiences with Fram filters busting oil lines. I stay away from them
dang now im curious how that happened??!!
 
what's going on everyone long story short ... I wanted a bigger filter like the ppe. The ppe is still good but I want better lol ,but in our thread size m22x1.5 you limited to all those filter you have seen .. so rather than changing my oem one. Myself and

OnTheReel been chatting about this idea so came up with this kit its copy the pac brake 5.7 hemi filter relocation kit but I did not like the low restriction small hole on the adopter and all the 90....on this kit ....​

NO I have not bought it yet planning on get it in the 3months or soo just want to inform others and get some feed back and ideas brain storming
with the kit you can choose your filter size( threads) so keep oem m22x1.5 if you like or change it to 3/4'16 and or3/16 -16 all without messing with the oem housing
so I decide to do this instead it keeps the oem housing untouched and 100 percent reversible if need be or leak arises or whatever ...just spin a oem filter like nothing every happened I like that .

I attached a photo so its easier to see what I mean not a bad deal 313 with out hoses need to figure where to mount it on the frame vertical too somewhere close by


I used the amsoil website to check the size chart like gasket ID and oD EAO11 is factory size

last photo is the new filter I want to run EAO42 EAO15 EAO26 all same but, not in length ...then cross reference those number to what ever brand you want wix ,purolatoer , you get the idea I going to run a amsoil filter. If you choose one you like check the price first before doing anything ....

I do like a fitler to be vertical and easy to get to plus it will be always full of oil for next start



hope this helps
 

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So I bought this to try to fit it in the oem housing I won't know till I do my next oil change will keep you posted . hey $16 dollars is much cheaper than $300 OIL FITLER RELOCATION KITS ...
worth a shot plus I can't send photos in private messages so I post here lol
 
So I bought this to try to fit it in the oem housing I won't know till I do my next oil change will keep you posted . hey $16 dollars is much cheaper than $300 OIL FITLER RELOCATION KITS ...
worth a shot plus I can't send photos in private messages so I post here lol
 

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Greetings from South Florida! I will be making the switch over to Redline 5w50 from Amsoil 0W40. Dumb question, can the stock mopar filter handle the thicker oil? Those running redline what filter are you guys using? I used the SRT filter from Amazon for my prior oil changes, but after reading the above I’m not even sure if it was the real deal or not.
 
Greetings from South Florida! I will be making the switch over to Redline 5w50 from Amsoil 0W40. Dumb question, can the stock mopar filter handle the thicker oil? Those running redline what filter are you guys using? I used the SRT filter from Amazon for my prior oil changes, but after reading the above I’m not even sure if it was the real deal or not.
In your climate you’re not going to see much of the temperatures on the lefthand side of the chart, so there’s really not as drastic of a difference in viscosity as you may think. For instance the Red Line at 30*C (86*F) is the same as Amsoil at 20*C (68*F). And that trend carries throughout the whole operating range pretty well.
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In other words you definitely don’t need a special oil filter for the 5w50. I am using the big PPE with mine. I think the SRT is a good option too as long as it’s a genuine one.
 
Finally got around to an oil change and removed the big dog PPE filter. I really like these units and ordered two more. They have about as much media as I’ve seen in any filter ever. Multi-layered with plastic screen backer.
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Integral magnet down by the spring didn’t catch much of anything, nor did the magnets I added to the outside. Good to know my maintenance routine is working and she’s nice and healthy.
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Slight paint ruboff from the lower rad hose on the end of the filter. Not a big deal but this is why I advised against using the even longer version. Just no room.
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Finally got around to an oil change and removed the big dog PPE filter. I really like these units and ordered two more.

"And while it is an impressive filter, I change oil too often and generally do not skip filter changes either. So something this expensive is just a waste to ever buy again."
 
"And while it is an impressive filter, I change oil too often and generally do not skip filter changes either. So something this expensive is just a waste to ever buy again."
In fairness to my “old self”, I’ve done 14 oil changes in 4 years on this thing, ran samples on 10 of those, and have been an open book along the way on what worked and what didn’t. Obviously taken in that context it wouldn’t make sense to go through 3.5 of these filters a year. But after sampling a couple times through this last interval (and just not driving the truck as much as before), I’m just not going to change oil as frequently as I anticipated even a few months ago. Running E85 exclusively has been a benefit to the oil life rather than the drag on it that some believe it to be. It brought fuel dilution down to nil and everything else like TBN and nitration has looked good.

I’m basically looking at a short winter run with a cheaper filter (used XG2 today) and then the main run when the weather breaks using a PPE. One per year I can handle. If I lived somewhere else I could get away with even less but cold weather sucks for oil. The time weighted average temperature kills it from every angle. Fills it with fuel and combustion byproducts. The sample from this new run will be atrocious no doubt.
 
Here's one for you OnTheReel.

On one of the two 'Cats you were kind enough to go over the analysis results on, and said they were good to go for another 3,000 miles, I checked the oil life on the EVIC today.

It has about 250 miles on the oil since the last change (years ago now) and the EVIC said 10%. But here's the kicker...I have never reset that oil life thingy, so in an '18 with 5,405 miles on it, it still claims about 500 miles to go on the factory fill.
 
Here's one for you OnTheReel.

On one of the two 'Cats you were kind enough to go over the analysis results on, and said they were good to go for another 3,000 miles, I checked the oil life on the EVIC today.

It has about 250 miles on the oil since the last change (years ago now) and the EVIC said 10%. But here's the kicker...I have never reset that oil life thingy, so in an '18 with 5,405 miles on it, it still claims about 500 miles to go on the factory fill.
Yeah, doesn’t seem like Mopar takes overall time in the sump into account, which is interesting considering they call for 6 month intervals. From what I remember my GMs did. Anyway, besides the crazy passage of time between then and now I’m not surprised it still thinks there is 10% left when you look how you operate the vehicle. Most of these OLMs are programmed to be heavily weighted on oil temperature. Both too cold and too hot are calculated into the degradation factor. You probably spend the vast majority of time in the sweet spot, so to speak. Easy on oil.
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I usually get at least two changes done before the OLM actually says “enough” and I have to reset it but otherwise I never even look at it. There’s no reason they can’t be more accurate than they are, but most just aren’t fed all the data needed or they are skewed to just kick the thing through the warranty period and not much more.
 
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You probably spend the vast majority of time in the sweet spot, so to speak. Easy on oil.
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It's pretty much a combination of "long trip" and "high speed drive". But I suspect that my trips are longer and the speeds higher than what they count on.

By the way, the latest oil change was o 12-11-23, 267 miles ago. I really should drive my favorite vehicle more.
 
Tried to get the ppe filter, been showing "item not available" wonder if its discontinued or just out of stock
 
@OnTheReel any comments on Redline not doing so great here… I trust your real world tests over this one… but fairly detailed. LOTS of data

I commented quite a bit when that came out. I’ll see if I can find it here. Anyway to summarize I would say the differences between all of them in that test are not substantial, and basically within the margin of error for the RDE method his lab uses.

I’ve actually got a lot more to unpack on Red Line soon. I believe we are beginning to see some changes in their formulas. Noticeably lower starting TBNs which may result in corrosive wear in some samples (including LSJr’s).

I don’t have all the info I need yet (and thankfully have a friend helping), but there’s something going on and Philips 66 might be screwing up my old standby.
 
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