PLATINUM12
TRX Member
As the title indicates, I'll be doing a technical write up on something that seems very simple and straightforward.
I've experimented over the years with different strategies with changing the oil in my vehicles and other equipment. Basically a trial and error thing, and finding ways to improve this process each time I performed it. I think the prices dealers charge for an oil change is outrageous, anyone on here I hope isn't using a quick-lube place, and unless you are doing it yourself, you have no way to know if it's being done correctly.
Things I've tried over the years:
1. Opening the drain plug immediately after shutting off the engine (Hottest)
2. Draining the oil when the engine has sat overnight (Coldest)
3. Cranking the engine over with/without spark plugs attached and oil drain plug open (to help get additional oil down to the pan that is otherwise still up in the engine)
4. Pouring "flush oil" into the fill location to help flush out any remaining dirty oil from above
5. Drain the old oil completely. Fill with new oil, run the engine for 5-10 minutes to flush out the system, drain again (Most costly option, and not necessary unless internally your engine is really dirty or old).
Before you say anything, #3 is not a good practice to do with any engine, ever, probably.
I did my first oil change at 3,500 miles, used the SRT white oil filter and Pennzoil Ultra platinum. I just performed my 2nd oil change at 8,000 miles, using the same SRT oil filter, but now going with Amsoil. After I changed the oil the first time, I noticed when checking the oil level with the dipstick, I was still wiping off some grime from the stick even after the fresh oil was put in. I know this is fairly normal, and my GMC 6.2L was the same way. However, my Charger 392 just went 3600 miles and the dipstick never had a speck of black grime on it. After changing my TRX and GMC to Amsoil, the grime has disappeared (thus far) so it seems the detergents in the Amsoil are working as advertised. My GMC 6.2L is now easier to start in cold weather, which I attribute to Amsoil's ability to flow when cold.
Since everyone here owns a TRX, I'm going to explain step by step exactly how I change the oil in my TRX and explain why I believe this to be the best strategy.
1. Oil temperature...Run the engine until it is hot (after a drive is best):
-Turning on a cold vehicle, letting it idle a few minutes, then draining isn't sufficient enough because the oil isn't hot enough to capture more of the contaminants in the oil system and suspend them within the oil itself. Running a hot engine will clean as much as possible during this engine run time and suspend it in the oil which can be drained more easily. No need to necessarily shut off the truck and open the drain plug immediately, but opening the drain plug within the first 10 minutes would be best. Draining hot oil for a shorter period of time is a better practice than draining oil when cold and letting it drain overnight (extended drain).
2. Positioning:
-Park the vehicle on a flat surface, otherwise the next part may not work as well.
-I have a set of 4 Rhino Ramps that make it easier for working underneath vehicles. For this truck's oil change, I use all 4. This gives you more room for working underneath to remove the drain plug and oil filter. Keeping the truck flat also helps all the oil directed to the oil drain plug and won't favor one side.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug:
-Self explanatory. However, as I discovered on this last oil change, is with the Skeerdy Cat skid plate on, the "access hole" machined into the plate cuts across the oil drain hole and made for a splashy mess. Unless you have a Fumoto or easier oil drain solution, take the extra few minutes to remove the Skeerdy Cat skid plate. (Next go round I'll be getting a Fumoto so I don't have to remove this skid plate).
4. Remove the oil cooler drain plug:
-You'll notice the way the oil cooler and drain plug are situated, the oil plug is just about horizontal, maybe a slight downward position.
5. Remove the oil filter:
-I do this last since it can be hot to handle using disposable nitrile gloves. I like to unscrew the filter and allow the excess oil to drain until it slows to a drip, then I remove the filter completely.
6. Give it Time:
-If you have the time, let the truck drain for at least 30-45 minutes. Once the oil cooler is down to a very slow drip, I grab my floor jack. I position it under the passenger front control arm and begin to jack up the front right side of the truck. This makes the oil cooler opening now facing downwards, and gets a few more ounces of old oil out. Walk away and allow things to continue to drain.
7. The first opening to generally stop draining is the oil filter, so I prep the new oil filter by pouring a very small amount in the filter (can't fill it up since this filter mounts sideways) and also lube the seal as well. Before I install it, I get a clean rag and I wipe out as much as I can of the opening, and all around it, including the plastic pieces that direct the emptying oil downwards. Go ahead and install the new oil filter.
8. If there is a slow drip from either drain plug, I let it go until its a good 30seconds between drips. While letting the oil drain for this long may not be "necessary" I'd like to hear an argument that allowing it to drain this long would be detrimental in any way. In my opinion, the more of the old, dirty oil you can allow to drain out, the better. I've found people online stating "allowing your engine's oil to drain too long or even overnight means you are draining all the oil from the little crevices, meaning you will have a dry start." This logic is flawed, because every time you shut off your vehicle and allow it to sit for a period of time, all that oil has already drained down to the oil pan. Any good oil is going to leave a film behind to eliminate a "Dry start." With this logic shut out, draining as much old oil as possible = better.
9. Once I'm satisfied with everything, I clean the oil drain plugs super well, wipe out all around the oil drain holes including the inside threads, then reinstall the drain plugs.
10. Shake the bottles of engine oil before you open and pour them into the engine, allowing all detergents that separated during sitting to mix together. I pour in 7 quarts before I even bother to check the dipstick. When the dipstick reads at the highest marker, I stop filling. I start the truck, back down off the ramps, and leave the engine idling while I clean up and put things away. I let the engine run about 5 minutes then shut it back off again. I come back 15 minutes later and check the dipstick, and then add in enough oil until it is once again exactly even with the top fill line. This past oil change I put in 7.75 quarts. These engines call for 7-7.5 quarts, which account for some of the oil that will never make it out of the engine at any given time. If the engine was completely empty, the capacity is actually rated 7.9 quarts.
Now, depending on one's preference of where they are satisfied to see the oil level on the dipstick, some guys are saying 7 quarts did the job, but clearly you can see I put in 7.75 quarts. That extra .75 coming from my detailed draining procedure highlighted above. So I guess the end result is I now have .75 quarts of new oil circulating through my truck instead of an extra .75 quarts of old oil still circulating. I want my truck to last a long time, and it sounds like Ram is no longer going to offer a V8 TRX starting for 2025, so the extra effort I put into small things like an oil change could prove to be hugely beneficial in the long run.
As a side note, I am currently getting 13mpg on this tank, which is by far the best I've ever gotten, which so far I am attributing to the Amsoil. Based on one tank alone, the upcharge for this oil has already paid for itself. Moving forward even if things level out a bit more, even a .1 mpg improvement helps with how thirsty these trucks are.
Thanks for reading, hope I didn't leave anything out that I was wanting to say, but I'd love to hear feedback as to my assumptions regarding what I think is best at a technical level.
I've experimented over the years with different strategies with changing the oil in my vehicles and other equipment. Basically a trial and error thing, and finding ways to improve this process each time I performed it. I think the prices dealers charge for an oil change is outrageous, anyone on here I hope isn't using a quick-lube place, and unless you are doing it yourself, you have no way to know if it's being done correctly.
Things I've tried over the years:
1. Opening the drain plug immediately after shutting off the engine (Hottest)
2. Draining the oil when the engine has sat overnight (Coldest)
3. Cranking the engine over with/without spark plugs attached and oil drain plug open (to help get additional oil down to the pan that is otherwise still up in the engine)
4. Pouring "flush oil" into the fill location to help flush out any remaining dirty oil from above
5. Drain the old oil completely. Fill with new oil, run the engine for 5-10 minutes to flush out the system, drain again (Most costly option, and not necessary unless internally your engine is really dirty or old).
Before you say anything, #3 is not a good practice to do with any engine, ever, probably.
I did my first oil change at 3,500 miles, used the SRT white oil filter and Pennzoil Ultra platinum. I just performed my 2nd oil change at 8,000 miles, using the same SRT oil filter, but now going with Amsoil. After I changed the oil the first time, I noticed when checking the oil level with the dipstick, I was still wiping off some grime from the stick even after the fresh oil was put in. I know this is fairly normal, and my GMC 6.2L was the same way. However, my Charger 392 just went 3600 miles and the dipstick never had a speck of black grime on it. After changing my TRX and GMC to Amsoil, the grime has disappeared (thus far) so it seems the detergents in the Amsoil are working as advertised. My GMC 6.2L is now easier to start in cold weather, which I attribute to Amsoil's ability to flow when cold.
Since everyone here owns a TRX, I'm going to explain step by step exactly how I change the oil in my TRX and explain why I believe this to be the best strategy.
1. Oil temperature...Run the engine until it is hot (after a drive is best):
-Turning on a cold vehicle, letting it idle a few minutes, then draining isn't sufficient enough because the oil isn't hot enough to capture more of the contaminants in the oil system and suspend them within the oil itself. Running a hot engine will clean as much as possible during this engine run time and suspend it in the oil which can be drained more easily. No need to necessarily shut off the truck and open the drain plug immediately, but opening the drain plug within the first 10 minutes would be best. Draining hot oil for a shorter period of time is a better practice than draining oil when cold and letting it drain overnight (extended drain).
2. Positioning:
-Park the vehicle on a flat surface, otherwise the next part may not work as well.
-I have a set of 4 Rhino Ramps that make it easier for working underneath vehicles. For this truck's oil change, I use all 4. This gives you more room for working underneath to remove the drain plug and oil filter. Keeping the truck flat also helps all the oil directed to the oil drain plug and won't favor one side.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug:
-Self explanatory. However, as I discovered on this last oil change, is with the Skeerdy Cat skid plate on, the "access hole" machined into the plate cuts across the oil drain hole and made for a splashy mess. Unless you have a Fumoto or easier oil drain solution, take the extra few minutes to remove the Skeerdy Cat skid plate. (Next go round I'll be getting a Fumoto so I don't have to remove this skid plate).
4. Remove the oil cooler drain plug:
-You'll notice the way the oil cooler and drain plug are situated, the oil plug is just about horizontal, maybe a slight downward position.
5. Remove the oil filter:
-I do this last since it can be hot to handle using disposable nitrile gloves. I like to unscrew the filter and allow the excess oil to drain until it slows to a drip, then I remove the filter completely.
6. Give it Time:
-If you have the time, let the truck drain for at least 30-45 minutes. Once the oil cooler is down to a very slow drip, I grab my floor jack. I position it under the passenger front control arm and begin to jack up the front right side of the truck. This makes the oil cooler opening now facing downwards, and gets a few more ounces of old oil out. Walk away and allow things to continue to drain.
7. The first opening to generally stop draining is the oil filter, so I prep the new oil filter by pouring a very small amount in the filter (can't fill it up since this filter mounts sideways) and also lube the seal as well. Before I install it, I get a clean rag and I wipe out as much as I can of the opening, and all around it, including the plastic pieces that direct the emptying oil downwards. Go ahead and install the new oil filter.
8. If there is a slow drip from either drain plug, I let it go until its a good 30seconds between drips. While letting the oil drain for this long may not be "necessary" I'd like to hear an argument that allowing it to drain this long would be detrimental in any way. In my opinion, the more of the old, dirty oil you can allow to drain out, the better. I've found people online stating "allowing your engine's oil to drain too long or even overnight means you are draining all the oil from the little crevices, meaning you will have a dry start." This logic is flawed, because every time you shut off your vehicle and allow it to sit for a period of time, all that oil has already drained down to the oil pan. Any good oil is going to leave a film behind to eliminate a "Dry start." With this logic shut out, draining as much old oil as possible = better.
9. Once I'm satisfied with everything, I clean the oil drain plugs super well, wipe out all around the oil drain holes including the inside threads, then reinstall the drain plugs.
10. Shake the bottles of engine oil before you open and pour them into the engine, allowing all detergents that separated during sitting to mix together. I pour in 7 quarts before I even bother to check the dipstick. When the dipstick reads at the highest marker, I stop filling. I start the truck, back down off the ramps, and leave the engine idling while I clean up and put things away. I let the engine run about 5 minutes then shut it back off again. I come back 15 minutes later and check the dipstick, and then add in enough oil until it is once again exactly even with the top fill line. This past oil change I put in 7.75 quarts. These engines call for 7-7.5 quarts, which account for some of the oil that will never make it out of the engine at any given time. If the engine was completely empty, the capacity is actually rated 7.9 quarts.
Now, depending on one's preference of where they are satisfied to see the oil level on the dipstick, some guys are saying 7 quarts did the job, but clearly you can see I put in 7.75 quarts. That extra .75 coming from my detailed draining procedure highlighted above. So I guess the end result is I now have .75 quarts of new oil circulating through my truck instead of an extra .75 quarts of old oil still circulating. I want my truck to last a long time, and it sounds like Ram is no longer going to offer a V8 TRX starting for 2025, so the extra effort I put into small things like an oil change could prove to be hugely beneficial in the long run.
As a side note, I am currently getting 13mpg on this tank, which is by far the best I've ever gotten, which so far I am attributing to the Amsoil. Based on one tank alone, the upcharge for this oil has already paid for itself. Moving forward even if things level out a bit more, even a .1 mpg improvement helps with how thirsty these trucks are.
Thanks for reading, hope I didn't leave anything out that I was wanting to say, but I'd love to hear feedback as to my assumptions regarding what I think is best at a technical level.
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