Foutz Full Skid Kits

I got it fully installed now. You’re right - it’s better to do it from back to front for sure. Unfortunately, even with how detailed your photos were, it was still painful to figure out and I still don’t know about the small 10mm bolts you have there. Did your set come with hardware or did it exclusively use OEM bolts? TIA

Also, i placed the aluminum small 4 bolt piece closest to the under carriage to create space between the front aftermarket piece and the frame.
That's the only tricky part.....you do have to loosen those up and I had to put something under the cross member to support it while making the change. I'm not a mechanic by no means .....but it took a little time to figure out the jigsaw puzzle. I found it best to work from back to front.
 
Pretty sure it came with a few bolts (four I think) but mostly used oem....I just don't remember what they were for....been a while....sorry.
 
Pretty sure it came with a few bolts (four I think) but mostly used oem....I just don't remember what they were for....been a while....sorry.
I’ll call them up. No worries
 
No idea.....I just tightened the crap out of them and haven't thought about it again.
Lol, yea that worked. Just finished. Some tips/observations for others are below.

I did it without a lift or ramps….just out in the driveway. If you’re doing this without a lift, you absolutely need a second set of hands, which I had my neighbor luckily, and we still used a jack-stand. Also a good time to check and fill your front axle which we did. Search for Potters post for the YouTube video. I’d already done the transfer case and rear diff.

There was no hardware provided by Foutz so I just reused the stock bolts. Although after looking back at post #37, I'm likely to go to the hardware store and get some additional bolts.

Order of operations -
1 — remove the stock skid plates (3 total), leaving only the front skid and the fuel tank skid intact….requires taking off the 4 rearward bolts on the front skid plate. The two inner bolts are coated in blue (locktite?), and the outter two are slightly different then all the rest. All of them, including the other stock skid bolts took a 5/8ths socket.
2 — Using a 19mm deep socket and a corresponding wrench, remove the nuts from the 4 crossmember bolts. Leave the bolts in place.
3 — Attach the black Foutz crossmember brace. Not sure how to explain this, but if you were standing facing the driver side of the truck, the brace would be an “L” shape. The pics in post #37 above show.
4 — the rearward most skid that attaches to the outside of the driver side frame goes on top of the crossmember brace from step 3….attach the 3 bolts to outside of driver side of the frame….loosely put a bolt in pace on the crossmember to hold it in place.
5 — this is where we used a jack stand to hold up the front of the large skid plate, which goes next. Attach the rear of the large skid plate on top of the rearward skid from step 4 across the crossmember.
6 — Attach the front most Foutz skid plate to the stock front skid plate….this is just to hold it in place.
7 — now the front of the large skid can be attached, but it has to be done in order. Large skid touches truck, then small spacer plate, then front Foutz skid from step 6 ….then run the bolts through to attach.
8 — tighten the crap out of all bolts

Would’ve preferred to do this with pictures and as I went, but doing this from memory should be close enough of a guide for people to follow. Took about an hour and a half. Probably would’ve been much less if I had instructions.

Hopefully this is helpful.
 
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Do they come in black
YARN | AND YES MR. WAYNE IT DOES COME IN BLACK | The Dark Knight ...
 
Is it just me or is anyone else not really seeing the benefit to the Foutz skids? I'm not seeing a lot more coverage vs stock. Perhaps they're lighter since they're aluminum but what other sections are you guys getting protection for with the full Foutz setup (not shock guards or pumpkin skids as i have both of those). Maybe someone can take some pics of their undercarriage so I get a better idea as the Foutz website pics def dont do it justice
 
Is it just me or is anyone else not really seeing the benefit to the Foutz skids? I'm not seeing a lot more coverage vs stock. Perhaps they're lighter since they're aluminum but what other sections are you guys getting protection for with the full Foutz setup (not shock guards or pumpkin skids as i have both of those). Maybe someone can take some pics of their undercarriage so I get a better idea as the Foutz website pics def dont do it justice
I thought you had the full kit. It looks like it has better coverage for the transfer case and makes your cats more difficult to steal.

Hopefully you save me 800 bucks.
 
I thought you had the full kit. It looks like it has better coverage for the transfer case and makes your cats more difficult to steal.

Hopefully you save me 800 bucks.
Dude if someone steals my cats, i'm gunna have a straight pipe welded in its place and send the thief a thank you for making my truck much more bada@@
 
I thought you had the full kit. It looks like it has better coverage for the transfer case and makes your cats more difficult to steal.

Hopefully you save me 800 bucks.
Mildly Better coverage for the transfer case (which IMO has adequate coverage unless you're rock crawling in a field of pickaxes) for $800 sounds like an investment I'll make when I start investing in gold-plated TP for my bunghole.
 
Mildly Better coverage for the transfer case (which IMO has adequate coverage unless you're rock crawling in a field of pickaxes) for $800 sounds like an investment I'll make when I start investing in gold-plated TP for my bunghole.
They make gold plated TP? I would like to get some.

You are definitely the expert in what is needed for protection so I will go with what you say. My rocks seem pretty mild compared to where you wheel.

I heard a saying last night on Matt's Off-road Recovery that saved me some money as I was about to get some Maxtrax.

He stated "If traction boards got you out, you were never truly stuck". I am adding that to my other favorite saying...(If money can fix your problem, it was never really a problem".
 
They make gold plated TP? I would like to get some.

You are definitely the expert in what is needed for protection so I will go with what you say. My rocks seem pretty mild compared to where you wheel.

I heard a saying last night on Matt's Off-road Recovery that saved me some money as I was about to get some Maxtrax.

He stated "If traction boards got you out, you were never truly stuck". I am adding that to my other favorite saying...(If money can fix your problem, it was never really a problem".
Lol im no expert but i was the 1st to fully shield the underside of the new 3-row L Grand cherokee as skids are super important to me. I once had a rock kick up and knick my oil filter on my old Wrangler and before i looked down all my oil was gone and engine seized. Ever since then that’s the first thing I do when I get home with a new vehicle is check the underbody protection lol

RE traction boards, i almost 100% agree with his statement. So in most off-road scenarios, you can stack rocks or pieces of wood tree bark, etc. and they can function a lot like a traction board. But when you’re in the soft sand in the beach or desert or sugar sand trails and you really get beached there may not be the resources you need readily available and so traction boards do come in handy. With that being said, I have had great luck with cheap eBay knock offs that were like 40 or $50 for the pair, I carry four of them on board in addition to a whole bunch of other recovery gear & winch/etc
 
I'm looking for light weight direct REPLACEMENT to OEM skid plate. I will not be doing any crazy off roading and I'd like something that is direct replacement and saves weight. If for no other reason, makes oil changes alone easier, but losing some weight up front is a bonus.
 

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