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HOT! *Exclusive Groupbuy* Flush Mount/ Integrated LED Light bar for TRX front bumper

I think it matches pretty well
20211221_092614.jpg
 
ORACLE said:
No but you use use our forum member discount code "Forum10" to get 10% off!

www.oraclelights.com

ORACLE Lighting 2019-2024 RAM Rebel/TRX Front Bumper Flush LED Light Bar System

Unique 2019+ RAM 1500 TRX or Rebel 100W LED light bar. Seamless bumper integration with factory finish. Available in white, yellow, or amber LEDs. Rugged construction and expert design for the RAM light bar.
www.oraclelights.com www.oraclelights.com
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Would you recommend using the white light or the yellow light as a base to match the hood amber lights if I put Amber film over it⁉️
I feel like yellow would work better than the white with the Amber tint to match the hood but I'm not positive and that's my goal to get the film and come as close as possible to the hood marker lights‼️ @ORACLE
 
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Smoke king said:
Would you recommend using the white light or the yellow light as a base to match the hood amber lights if I put Amber film over it⁉️
I feel like yellow would work better than the white with the Amber tint to match the hood but I'm not positive and that's my goal to get the film and come as close as possible to the hood marker lights‼️ @ORACLE
Click to expand...

That is a good question, would think that Amber film over yellow lens would give you the closest match but its hard to know if the color Amber on the film would match the color Amber on the hood lights.
 
I just finished wiring mine into the high-beam circuit, armed via an AUX switch. The AUX output supplies the load to the relay, and the high beam driver circuit switches the relay. With auto high beams enabled, when the truck deems it "safe" to engage the high beams, night turns in to day, then shuts off before I blind any oncoming drivers. Turning the AUX switch off disables the light bar entirely.

To do this, you need to tap in to the white/green wire on the driver's headlight connector. Remove the top plastic cover, held on with 12 plastic fasteners, to get better access to the back of the headlight. Unlock the connector, and remove it from the headlamp assembly. Pop a couple of christmas tree fasteners, and you'll have enough slack to pull the connector up so you can turn it over and work on it (the wire you want is pin #3, and of course it's on the bottom).

Tap this wire, and run it to pin 86 of your relay (typically white on a standard pre-wired relay socket). Ground pin 85 (black wire on the socket). Connect your AUX wire of choice to pin 30 on the relay, and connect the power wire of the light bar to pin 87 on the relay. Then plug everything in and try it out. When it's all put back together, it looks something like this:

20220205_125501.jpg


I used a relay with an integrated fuse, because that's all I had on-hand. As soon as I get some non-fused relays, I'll swap it. The fuse doesn't hurt anything, but it's redundant, since the AUX circuits are already fuse-protected (these relays were meant to draw power straight from the battery)
 
Tom488 said:
I just finished wiring mine into the high-beam circuit, armed via an AUX switch. The AUX output supplies the load to the relay, and the high beam driver circuit switches the relay. With auto high beams enabled, when the truck deems it "safe" to engage the high beams, night turns in to day, then shuts off before I blind any oncoming drivers. Turning the AUX switch off disables the light bar entirely.

To do this, you need to tap in to the white/green wire on the driver's headlight connector. Remove the top plastic cover, held on with 12 plastic fasteners, to get better access to the back of the headlight. Unlock the connector, and remove it from the headlamp assembly. Pop a couple of christmas tree fasteners, and you'll have enough slack to pull the connector up so you can turn it over and work on it (the wire you want is pin #3, and of course it's on the bottom).

Tap this wire, and run it to pin 86 of your relay (typically white on a standard pre-wired relay socket). Ground pin 85 (black wire on the socket). Connect your AUX wire of choice to pin 30 on the relay, and connect the power wire of the light bar to pin 87 on the relay. Then plug everything in and try it out. When it's all put back together, it looks something like this:

View attachment 33323

I used a relay with an integrated fuse, because that's all I had on-hand. As soon as I get some non-fused relays, I'll swap it. The fuse doesn't hurt anything, but it's redundant, since the AUX circuits are already fuse-protected (these relays were meant to draw power straight from the battery)
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Your write up is pretty through but since I know nothing about lights or wires I have a question that may possibly be in front of my face. I understand it goes on and off when the high beams go on and off. Being that it’s still connected to a aux switch can it still be turned on and off independently?
 
jonny_pockets said:
Your write up is pretty through but since I know nothing about lights or wires I have a question that may possibly be in front of my face. I understand it goes on and off when the high beams go on and off. Being that it’s still connected to a aux switch can it still be turned on and off independently?
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No - the way I wired it, it can only be triggered by the high beams. The Aux circuit supplies the current to operate the light, and the high beams turn the relay on and off.
 
Tom488 said:
No - the way I wired it, it can only be triggered by the high beams. The Aux circuit supplies the current to operate the light, and the high beams turn the relay on and off.
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I love the idea of hooking to high beams but as @jonny_pockets alluded to, I would want the ability to use Aux switch when needed. I wonder if someone a lot smarter than me, @Tom488 , could figure that out? Lol
 
brettwingfield said:
I love the idea of hooking to high beams but as @jonny_pockets alluded to, I would want the ability to use Aux switch when needed. I wonder if someone a lot smarter than me, @Tom488 , could figure that out? Lol
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Sure, but you'd need to use two Aux switches, because you have a total of three different states:

- Lightbar on
- Lightbar on w/ high-beams
- Lightbar disabled (high beams only)

To do so, connect another Aux switch to the lightbar positive wire. Your wiring then becomes:

Relay terminal 85 - High beam driver wire
Relay terminal 86 - Ground
Relay terminal 30 - Aux1 output
Relay terminal 87 - Aux 2 output + lightbar positive
Lightbar negative to ground

So now, with both Aux1 & Aux2 off, just the high beams operate. With Aux1 on, the lightbar comes on with the high beams. With Aux2 on, the lightbar is always on. If you have Aux1 on, then switch on Aux2, the lightbar comes on. No, the high beams aren't somehow backfed. They still operate as normal.
 
brettwingfield said:
I love the idea of hooking to high beams but as @jonny_pockets alluded to, I would want the ability to use Aux switch when needed. I wonder if someone a lot smarter than me, @Tom488 , could figure that out? Lol
Click to expand...
Bypassing the highbeam and using another aux switch would allow you to have both options. I am sure there might be another way as well.
 
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