“Plug and play” anti-theft kill switch

[Hemi4me2]

YOU BLEW THE FUSE FOR THE START / STOP BUTTON.

 

[MTB10]

fuse #? What would cause it to blow so easily?

 

[OnTheReel]

fuse #? What would cause it to blow so easily?

Check F24, 15 amp blue. Pretty sure that’s the one. If you plugged the harness into the factory wiring and then ran the switch wires you probably touched said wire to ground (anything metal under the dash basically). It’s hot all the time so plugging the kill switch harness into the factory wiring needs to be the last step after the kill switch is installed and wired. Or disconnect battery. I’ll re-write the instructions for clarity there.

 

[Me Badd]

Anyone ever have a issue where it seems like a fuse blew installing this harness? I disconnected the kill switch harness and plugged into the oem harness and still no power?

Any recommendations?

No worries this happen to me . Just go the fuse panel under the dash and look in your operators manual and find the fuse that supply power to the switch . Replace it and you will go to good. There is a extra fuse in the panel amd I belive it was a 5 amp .

 

[Russ103]

Anyone ever have a issue where it seems like a fuse blew installing this harness? I disconnected the kill switch harness and plugged into the oem harness and still no power?

Any recommendations?

Same thing happened to me and the fuse blowing. I decided it wasn’t worth it and got IGLA installed.

 

[OnTheReel]

Personally still think it’s worth it. Especially if you’re in a lower risk area. It costs virtually nothing and if wired correctly that fuse never blows. Been using the kill switch daily for over a year now and never had a problem.

These days I pair with the Tazer security features for another layer.

 

[NINJA]

- I like it! That's A Pro Install! No "Cut & Splice'. Kudos!
- Hey! I sleep closer to my TRX than my Wife
- And, it's probable that those theives who are sophisticated enough to 'copy' your FOB, are also reading these Forums.
- Yet, it might delay them 'just enough' to stop or interupt the loss.
- Fact: Money has always done strange things to People!
- Me? I appreciate those that share their info on any Forum. At least it provides us 'choices, & many times great ideas.
- I'd also bet that the "Factory" might review these Forums, and plagiarize a few ideas, and add them (at a cost) to another one of their "Option Groups".
- Last Resort: Carry A Bunch of Insurance Coverage!

 

[omegasea23]

Hello. I am interested in purchasing the cut off switch. We have two TRX's and one limited. Can we purchase 3 of them? If so, please let me know how. Thank you.

 

[OnTheReel]

Hello. I am interested in purchasing the cut off switch. We have two TRX's and one limited. Can we purchase 3 of them? If so, please let me know how. Thank you.

Send a PM to @maestro5531

 

[5thgenram2023]

Just another way to get the job done. I’ve seen people do kill switches on the fuel pump, e-brake, etc. This one I cooked up uses an off the shelf harness to interrupt power to the starter button. This allows retention of the remote start, and no wires to cut. Just about everything can be defeated but I figured this would at least add another layer of “f you” to the key-cloners. And 100% reversible to stock with no footprint at all.

Cheaper options...make your own with these connectors and pins:

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-776204-2.html

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-345178-2.html

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-175180-2.html

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-173682-1.html

A forum member also offers these assembled at a good price:

https://www.ram-trx.com/threads/start-button-kill-switch-harness.14418/

Otherwise this is the remote start harness I used. Good option if connectors are unavailable, you're in a hurry, and/ or can't make your own from scratch:

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View attachment 42117
Peeling back the onion, these 6 pin connectors are what we’re after:
View attachment 42118
Note that only 4 pins are populated in the truck’s harness, so I de-pinned the blue and orange wires. Dunno what they do, but they ain’t there in the TRX. In this aftermarket harness, there are also long wires teed into the blue, white with green stripe, and black wires. I got rid of the tees and soldered just the two ends back to each other as shown. Note that the one wire has a green stripe on the male plug and red stripe on the female, but they do go together and are in the same pin position.
View attachment 42119
I then extended the red wire leads to go out to a kill switch using the excess wire from this kit.View attachment 42123
EDIT: If you don’t wish to disconnect the battery, the kill switch harness should be plugged into the factory ignition wiring LAST. Otherwise these kill switch wires will be hot and may short to ground while routing and installing the switch. Blowing fuse F24.

Next up is the truck-side of the work. I disconnected the battery and pulled the knee buster down, and reached up to push the starter switch out of its hole.View attachment 42124
There are two tabs on top and one on the bottom.
View attachment 42125View attachment 42126
From there it was a matter of installing my tee harness:
View attachment 42135
I taped over the connector to make it a little less apparent and harder to disassemble. Anyone who’s dealt with Tesa tape knows it’s a bitch to unpeel. Obviously the way to defeat it is to unplug the tee harness and plug the factory harness directly back into the switch. To avoid that possibility, you can hardwire without the tee harness. That would be more secure, but I just didn’t want cut wires. I never ever do, and won’t start now. You do what you want.
View attachment 42136
Last step is the kill switch. Any simple SPST on/off switch works. I used a high quality Carling marine switch because I just didn’t want problems. I soldered my wires right to switch and heat shrunk and taped over them.

You can put the switch anywhere you want. I found a pretty neat location. Very difficult to find while being comically easy to reach. The steering column has a leather thing around it and a hole where the tilt adjuster lever passes through. I pulled the headlight switch (just pull!), and mounted the kill switch to a brace that is facing the adjuster lever. I have the switch positioned so I can reach in the hole in the leather and flip it. The switch does not restrict the adjustment lever movement and is totally invisible. Switch is on the metal bracket with the slot running down it.
View attachment 42139
This is the view from below. Yes, you can kinda see it, but it’s way up there and not obvious. You wouldn’t be likely to find it in a rush, and you wouldn’t be able to feel it or reach it from below. Good enough for me.View attachment 42140
Now, I did highlight its weaknesses, this is not the perfect solution. I am aware. I just figure for $70 this is way better than nothing. It is easy to install with no factory wires to cut and could supplement other security measures.

I did this one mine. Love this thread and couldn't have done it without this info. Works perfectly and I was shocked even with the kill sw off it will still remote start. Pretty cool!! Thanks for posting everything in such detail!!

 

[Crazynaclh20]

I have had my TRX for over a year with no issues with theft. Maybe just lucky.
Now it has 900hp and a bunch more goodies installed I decided to upgrade my security system.
So far I installed the Tazer with the metal Tazer shield (this gives the PIN lock and carjacking mode). I think to supplement the shield I'll use something like the stainless zip ties used to hold on header wrap and many of them to hold the harness wires up out of sight. Even if found they are an PITA to remove without very good side cutters. Then all the time standing on your head to do so.
Now I've gathered more item to install:
Shock sensor
Glass sensor
Ghost lock with GPS tracking
Remote secondary horn
Skeerdy cat shields, Perfect place to mount a 2nd horn spliced in line with the stock horn
Relocate the stock horn
Apple Air tags
Steering wheel lock with alarm built in. (just an annoyance that takes up time and makes noise even if its just 2 min)

I know a lot of folks say go Ravelco. My issue is I don't want to remember to do anything special for every single stop. I'm ok with setting up for long durations like going to the mall or airport or over night. Also the Ravelco doesn't work with keeping vehicles for the life of the car or truck. I'm a collector and keep these things forever. I don't need an invasive unit/ install wearing out on me. I have time so if something were to go wrong on anything I've listed I can replace or upgrade and don't have to live with a wiring mess. I have a family member that went Ravelco. I was turned off at first sight, then found out its only 5 wires that must be defeated. I'd think a multimeter and a set of jumper wires it could be defeated as usually its just 2 sets of jumpers on one side and a single hot or ground on the other half of the key that get connected. Nothing more than a couple switches that are hidden within the "plug". I may be wrong.
If anyone really wants to steal these trucks they will have it. I just want to encourage them to move along.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[Roweski]

I have had my TRX for over a year with no issues with theft. Maybe just lucky.
Now it has 900hp and a bunch more goodies installed I decided to upgrade my security system.
So far I installed the Tazer with the metal Tazer shield (this gives the PIN lock and carjacking mode). I think to supplement the shield I'll use something like the stainless zip ties used to hold on header wrap and many of them to hold the harness wires up out of sight. Even if found they are an PITA to remove without very good side cutters. Then all the time standing on your head to do so.
Now I've gathered more item to install:
Shock sensor
Glass sensor
Ghost lock with GPS tracking
Remote secondary horn
Skeerdy cat shields, Perfect place to mount a 2nd horn spliced in line with the stock horn
Relocate the stock horn
Apple Air tags
Steering wheel lock with alarm built in. (just an annoyance that takes up time and makes noise even if its just 2 min)

I know a lot of folks say go Ravelco. My issue is I don't want to remember to do anything special for every single stop. I'm ok with setting up for long durations like going to the mall or airport or over night. Also the Ravelco doesn't work with keeping vehicles for the life of the car or truck. I'm a collector and keep these things forever. I don't need an invasive unit/ install wearing out on me. I have time so if something were to go wrong on anything I've listed I can replace or upgrade and don't have to live with a wiring mess. I have a family member that went Ravelco. I was turned off at first sight, then found out its only 5 wires that must be defeated. I'd think a multimeter and a set of jumper wires it could be defeated as usually its just 2 sets of jumpers on one side and a single hot or ground on the other half of the key that get connected. Nothing more than a couple switches that are hidden within the "plug". I may be wrong.
If anyone really wants to steal these trucks they will have it. I just want to encourage them to move along.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I implore you to search the forum for IGLA, Ravelco, or Kill Switch. Start a new thread if you can't find what you need. Inevitably, every thread that mentions these turns into a shitshow, and I don't want @OnTheReel 's thread to go down this path. It has been very helpful to some of us.

 

[Bigdawg]

Hoping you are still selling. I’d like to purchase one of the kill switches. Let me know. Much appreciated.

 

[Air’d outSRT]

Hoping you are still selling. I’d like to purchase one of the kill switches. Let me know. Much appreciated.

Worst option you can do. Get real anti theft, this is a 10 second deterrent at best

 

[Russ103]

Worst option you can do. Get real anti theft, this is a 10 second deterrent at best

Come on now, this is far better than nothing. It’s arguably better then Ravelco, especially when you consider the difference in price.

 

[Bigdawg]

I’m in a real small town in the middle of nowhere. Def not dealing with the sophisticated thieves that are in the major metro areas most of the posts here are dealing with. Just looking to take care of the want to be thieves. Not looking for IGLA overkill pricing that’s what insurance is for.

 

[PhoenixTRX]

First time I joined a Raptor forum was after my 2014 wouldn't start... and the infamous Fuse27 (fuel pump), later a TSB. Cost .20 cents

As a massive MM/RW fan (from the introduction to the Interceptor/basement scene)....

1:50 -> Equipped with .... Knife/explosive 'kill' switch' and feral dog is a favorite scene -> granted my anti-car jack device is via HR218 (LEOSA National CCW card)

 

[Bigdawg]

Ok so much appreciation for the input from the peanut gallery clown. Typical. Knows everyone’s situation. I know exactly what this is and why I want it. If the person selling is still selling. Let me know.

 

[Air’d outSRT]

Ok so much appreciation for the input from the peanut gallery clown. Typical. Knows everyone’s situation. I know exactly what this is and why I want it. If the person selling is still selling. Let me know.

He is not because… it doesn’t work…. Not sure how many times it can be said. $100,000 vehicle and you want the worst cheapest thing out to try and stop a theft when thats literally the first place they go after making a new key. Enjoy the rest of your night. You will learn the hard way I guess

 

[04Ram2500Hemi]

He is not because… it doesn’t work…. Not sure how many times it can be said. $100,000 vehicle and you want the worst cheapest thing out to try and stop a theft when thats literally the first place they go after making a new key. Enjoy the rest of your night. You will learn the hard way I guess

He may be in the same spot I am and there isn’t a IGLA installer around…