Oracle side mirror ditch lights - installed w/night shot

FULLTHROTTLERICK

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Finally had a chance to install one of the two side mirror ditch lights. No I haven’t wired them yet because I’m waiting to do the passenger side first. Install was pretty straightforward with the following hiccups.:

Step 4 requires removal of 4 torx screws (not 3). Almost destroyed everything prying it apart with 1 bolt still secured lol.

Also, steps 11 and 12 are not necessary because there is not enough slack per below.

RE Steps 14 & 15- there is almost no slack in the factory wire loom to feed a wire through like they say. Youll need a good feeder wire (e.g., semi-rigid 10ga) and a pipe spring puller or wire hanger to grab the wire once u feed it through (see pic) There is a 90 degree turn upwards that’s impossible to make without a wire hanger type device. A little dielectric grease on the feeder wire does wonders.

One other concern that I was kind of bummed about is b/c of my mild OCD - there is no good way to feed the wire from the door into the engine bay without being visible like last pic below. I tried to find a clean way to snake it through the door and through the factory rubber wire hose, but the door is completely solid all around the wire hole going to the side mirror. It is what it is.

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I think you’d be able to pass that wire through the factory door plug and then up through the firewall. I was able to chase speaker wire through each door without too much hassle. There are decently sized open slots in the middle of the connector that mates with the body. You can run the wire right through them. Yes, if the door has to come off they will need to be cut. But otherwise it works fine.
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Biggest fight is getting that connector plug out of the body with very little room to undo the clips.

I use heavy test (like 200lb or more) monofiliment fishing line for a snake, FWIW. I like it more than the metal ones because it won’t poke through the rubber boot.
 
I think you’d be able to pass that wire through the factory door plug and then up through the firewall. I was able to chase speaker wire through each door without too much hassle. There are decently sized open slots in the middle of the connector that mates with the body. You can run the wire right through them. Yes, if the door has to come off they will need to be cut. But otherwise it works fine.
View attachment 108150
Biggest fight is getting that connector plug out of the body with very little room to undo the clips.

I use heavy test (like 200lb or more) monofiliment fishing line for a snake, FWIW. I like it more than the metal ones because it won’t poke through the rubber boot.
So I thought so too but the door is completely solid around the hole for the side mirror wires. Strange and I’ll check again on the passenger side but im 99%

Good tip on the fish line. Never felt 200+lb test so wouldn’t have ever tried it!
 
So for anyone wondering, these do add some width (couple inches) with the mirrors closed. See below

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So I thought so too but the door is completely solid around the hole for the side mirror wires. Strange and I’ll check again on the passenger side but im 99%
I’m having trouble visualizing what the issue is. I did add two wires for the auto-dimming mirror on my passenger side as well, so I know the general lay of the land, but maybe I’m missing something.

Does the new light wiring come out of the factory grommet (point A)? If so, there’s nothing stopping you from running that new wire alongside that factory harness outside of the door cavity until you hit point B. Once at point B go back in the door cavity and run down into the door connector. You can pull out the big rubber plug next to “B” to get better access.
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I’m having trouble visualizing what the issue is. I did add two wires for the auto-dimming mirror on my passenger side as well, so I know the general lay of the land, but maybe I’m missing something.

Does the new light wiring come out of the factory grommet (point A)? If so, there’s nothing stopping you from running that new wire alongside that factory harness outside of the door cavity until you hit point B. Once at point B go back in the door cavity and run down into the door connector. You can pull out the big rubber plug next to “B” to get better access. View attachment 108161
Genius! And that's why you're the man! Definitely nothing stopping you from running the wire on outside of door cavity (and under the window trim as shown from A to B) - never thought of doing that. The door cavity is completely solid around point A so no way to run it inside the door cavity.

I think i may just leave it bobo for now unless you have another brilliant idea for how to run the passenger side into the engine bay?
 
Well, they are uglier than I predicted but I will take function over form in this case.

Your truck doesn't seem scratched nearly as bad as mine, are you sure you take it offroad?
Well thanks man haha! No i agree they are not the prettiest but dont want to lose any vision via traditional ditch lights

and yea man my truck is full PPF so most of the scratches disappear after a nice hot day :cool:
 
Genius! And that's why you're the man! Definitely nothing stopping you from running the wire on outside of door cavity (and under the window trim as shown from A to B) - never thought of doing that. The door cavity is completely solid around point A so no way to run it inside the door cavity.

I think i may just leave it bobo for now unless you have another brilliant idea for how to run the passenger side into the engine bay?
Shouldn’t be too bad to run the wire under the carpet up along the firewall from the passenger side to the driver’s side and then out into the engine bay. I know for sure there’s a big grommet to pass the wires through over there.
 
Shouldn’t be too bad to run the wire under the carpet up along the firewall from the passenger side to the driver’s side and then out into the engine bay. I know for sure there’s a big grommet to pass the wires through over there.
I prolly would only need to run it to the firewall grommet cuz id join the wires before leaving the cabin. Esp. since the wire prolly wouldnt be long enough to run it all the way to the aux bundle anyway. Either way, sounds like a lot of work. Im so burnt out on running wires at this point after doing the Rex bumpers (with the 14 lights therein) and the exhaust valves, and now ive gotta chase down a ground issue on my side by side led bar. Ugh

One day ill prolly do it the right way. For now- bobo it is lol
 
I prolly would only need to run it to the firewall grommet cuz id join the wires before leaving the cabin. Esp. since the wire prolly wouldnt be long enough to run it all the way to the aux bundle anyway. Either way, sounds like a lot of work. Im so burnt out on running wires at this point after doing the Rex bumpers (with the 14 lights therein) and the exhaust valves, and now ive gotta chase down a ground issue on my side by side led bar. Ugh

One day ill prolly do it the right way. For now- bobo it is lol
I totally get it. At least you do have a black truck so that wire in the door jamb kinda blends in. On mine that wire would be flipping me off every time I got in and out.
 
I totally get it. At least you do have a black truck so that wire in the door jamb kinda blends in. On mine that wire would be flipping me off every time I got in and out.
Haha yeah that would prolly get me on ur truck for sure
 
Following....Still too hot to work in the garage for me...Air temp over the drive way temp gauge is reading 115F factor in 47% humidity....and sitting in 73F inside sounds a lot better.
 
Following....Still too hot to work in the garage for me...Air temp over the drive way temp gauge is reading 115F factor in 47% humidity....and sitting in 73F inside sounds a lot better.
i feel ya man! part of the reason why i did 1 on one day and 1 the next day. Hot as Bs
 
I’m curious how the tow mirrors will look when released. They seem like an interesting option.
 

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