Which Oil would/will you choose?

The user Tom F&L GoR was a chemical engineer for one the big oil companies.

Reading that user's post reminds me of a customer we had that was a senior level r&d chemist for the largest manufacturer of store branded label motor oils and at the time he and I discussing viscosity and life span based on additives they were working on what would end up being Amazon's Basic line to be added to their product portfolio.

He essentially said the exact same thing as Tom. The pressure from the OEMs on the lubrication industry was the equivalent to a death sentence to the consumer and hard parts alike. Also being overseas restrictions are so overwhelming there are some manufacturers producing 0w16 grade oils which at that point I wouldn't even dare running something so thin in Texas heat.

Long story short he stands very firm to old school time tested belief in what you can't get in your packaged oils you can get in store bought additives such as ZDDP ect..... love that fresh heavy Zinc smell!

But as stated before in other threads, none of that matters.... just watch the oil life meter lol. I digress.
 
Reading that user's post reminds me of a customer we had that was a senior level r&d chemist for the largest manufacturer of store branded label motor oils and at the time he and I discussing viscosity and life span based on additives they were working on what would end up being Amazon's Basic line to be added to their product portfolio.

He essentially said the exact same thing as Tom. The pressure from the OEMs on the lubrication industry was the equivalent to a death sentence to the consumer and hard parts alike. Also being overseas restrictions are so overwhelming there are some manufacturers producing 0w16 grade oils which at that point I wouldn't even dare running something so thin in Texas heat.

Long story short he stands very firm to old school time tested belief in what you can't get in your packaged oils you can get in store bought additives such as ZDDP ect..... love that fresh heavy Zinc smell!

But as stated before in other threads, none of that matters.... just watch the oil life meter lol. I digress.
Boostdufus, everyone already pointed out how dumb you are in a different thread, do you really want people to do it here also? Rather than another boring bogus story, Just answer us, why does the manufacture have a schedule, twice as long as what is actually needed? Wouldnt that decrease sales after failures, and increase warrenty claims? Cmon, you can do it, answer, its a valid question right?
 
Ms-12633 as listed for the trx, is the standard on the regular ultra but not on the natural gas oil.
the natural gas oil , not starting from crude should be cleaner, but the manual doesnt specify it, even if its newer.
Does anyone know the answer to this question?
 
Boostdufus, everyone already pointed out how dumb you are in a different thread, do you really want people to do it here also? Rather than another boring bogus story, Just answer us, why does the manufacture have a schedule, twice as long as what is actually needed? Wouldnt that decrease sales after failures, and increase warrenty claims? Cmon, you can do it, answer, its a valid question right?
Listen Regina!

You're too dumb, blind, or flat out fucking ignorant to have even the slightest hint of what's even been discussed.

Now sit your sexy little bitch boy ass back down and don't come ruin this man's thread with all your snowflake like ideology on how you want big brother to tell you what to do.

I've seen alot of forum twats over the years, you definitely hold the current record.

Sorry OP, F8s keyboard WIC vouchers were about to expire and he had to use them up.

Carry on.
 
I’ll be doing full synthetic but not sure what the dealer uses. I haven’t changed my own oil since 2003. Depends on how easy it is to get to the filter. I’ve not even looked on my Rebel.
 
Found the answer - the natural gas oil is the newer updated standard

Thanks, its much easier to find. Can you link to that source or post up a pic? So its this 12633/with different packaging?
 

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This thread got me thinking, and I started looking up all the manufacturers recommended oil type for their highest performance engines for that manufacture. Everyone manufacture seems to has a different synthetic oil to be used exclusively for factory filled when new and recommended for oil changes.

If there was one synthetic oil that was so superior to the others, they would all use the same oil from the factory and be the recommended oil for oil changes. I believe these are just business relationships, either auto manufacture is owned by or owns part of oil company or oil company is paying to be the recommended oil brand of manufacture. Its all about profits on service side.

Plus the dealer side of car manufacturing is where the dealer makes the majority of the money. So if they can sell a quart of oil at $7-$8/quart, when they are getting in bulk from FCA supplier/partners at $1/quart, that is a huge profit item for dealers.

Someone on the RAM and SRT forums said this in threads about 6.4L Hemi oil recommendations:

"FIAT has a strong business relationship with Pennzoil through Ferrari (owned by FIAT) and Shell (owner of Pennzoil) partnership. So, when they bought Chrysler, they made the business decision to switch the Chrysler OEM oil partner from Mobil to Pennzoil.

To support this business relationship, FCA started listing a spec that only Pennzoil met, and that anyone else would need to spend two years and a big chunk of money acquiring. Mobil 1 and many others would likely be able to get certified, but have probably made the business decision that there wouldn't be enough of a return on that investment at this stage.

All that said, the Pennzoil Ultra Plat is an excellent oil. It's not absurdly expensive and it has an SRT logo on the bottle, so I buy it for my car. When I do the first oil change on my truck (it's a 5.7) I'll have to decide if I'm going to stick with the M1 I've run in my past HEMIs or go to Pennzoil for it also."
 
Has anyone taken their TRX out to a desert and just ran it all out for hours on end hard yet? I mean really pushing it, to the limits for a whole day?

I would think that would be the equivalent of running a car on a road course for hours at a time, non stop. Take 1/2 hour break every hour or 2, repeat. For entire day.

If you have that type of open desert access, run it once with recommended Pennzoil ultra and check oil color and deposit, via dipstick on new oil change, then every hour. Take pictures and put sample on paper towel each check (label time) to compare it, to later compare oil color/deposit checks. If its anything like road racing, the longer you run it all out for hours on hours, it gets dirtier and dirtier.

Then the next time you hit the desert for a day, change the oil and use Shell Rotella 0W-40 synthetic diesel oil. You will see a noticeable difference in oil color, dirtiness and deposits.

I did not believe Tom the oil guru when I first read it, then one Saturday at Homestead, we prepped 2 vipers with Mobil1 Synthetic regular gas motor oil (which we always used before) and the other 2 vipers with Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. After the first hour/ hour and half, you could already see the how much darker the Mobile1 was compared to the Rotella. Or use Mobil Delvac 1 Advanced Synthetic diesel oil (not pushing any brand), you will see a noticeable difference.

After that I was sold, but seeing is believing. I just equate it to how dirty a diesel engine is and the weight load they are under constantly.

After a full track day that you use up 3 or 4 sets of track slicks, all the fluids have to be changed and brake pads. I would assume the same should be true for TRX after a full non stop day in desert running, except the tires wearing out.
 
Spoke to Pennzoil, the carbon neutral, made from natural gas MS-A0921 Ultra Platinum supersedes the MS-12633 Ultra Platinum
 
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“Carbon Neutral” doesnt sound good to me, I’d pick the other one, same as I just bought
The irony is pretty solid here. Carbon neutral oil for a hellcat motor that gets 8mpg
 
Boostdufus, everyone already pointed out how dumb you are in a different thread, do you really want people to do it here also? Rather than another boring bogus story, Just answer us, why does the manufacture have a schedule, twice as long as what is actually needed? Wouldnt that decrease sales after failures, and increase warrenty claims? Cmon, you can do it, answer, its a valid question right?
I want people to do it here also. Is that wrong?

cars after the 90’s are engineered around the concept of planned obsolescence
 
Listen Regina!

You're too dumb, blind, or flat out fucking ignorant to have even the slightest hint of what's even been discussed.

Now sit your sexy little bitch boy ass back down and don't come ruin this man's thread with all your snowflake like ideology on how you want big brother to tell you what to do.

I've seen alot of forum twats over the years, you definitely hold the current record.

Sorry OP, F8s keyboard WIC vouchers were about to expire and he had to use them up.

Carry on.
Ok. That was a solid and descriptive response. Sexy little bitch boy ass lol
 
Has anyone taken their TRX out to a desert and just ran it all out for hours on end hard yet? I mean really pushing it, to the limits for a whole day?

I would think that would be the equivalent of running a car on a road course for hours at a time, non stop. Take 1/2 hour break every hour or 2, repeat. For entire day.

If you have that type of open desert access, run it once with recommended Pennzoil ultra and check oil color and deposit, via dipstick on new oil change, then every hour. Take pictures and put sample on paper towel each check (label time) to compare it, to later compare oil color/deposit checks. If its anything like road racing, the longer you run it all out for hours on hours, it gets dirtier and dirtier.

Then the next time you hit the desert for a day, change the oil and use Shell Rotella 0W-40 synthetic diesel oil. You will see a noticeable difference in oil color, dirtiness and deposits.

I did not believe Tom the oil guru when I first read it, then one Saturday at Homestead, we prepped 2 vipers with Mobil1 Synthetic regular gas motor oil (which we always used before) and the other 2 vipers with Shell Rotella T6 synthetic. After the first hour/ hour and half, you could already see the how much darker the Mobile1 was compared to the Rotella. Or use Mobil Delvac 1 Advanced Synthetic diesel oil (not pushing any brand), you will see a noticeable difference.

After that I was sold, but seeing is believing. I just equate it to how dirty a diesel engine is and the weight load they are under constantly.

After a full track day that you use up 3 or 4 sets of track slicks, all the fluids have to be changed and brake pads. I would assume the same should be true for TRX after a full non stop day in desert running, except the tires wearing out.
There better be a gas station in that desert. The 720s would go through a gallon of gas every 90 seconds on a tight circuit. The trx has a tank twice the size but still....
 
Oils that meet FCA's spec have higher moly content which protects the cam and lifters more than the other options. I believe the only ones that meet spec are Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Amsoil, and Redline. Quite a few of the Hemi's are eating lifters, so I would stick with the factory oil. I have always been a Mobil 1 guy, but the Pennzoil seems to be doing good in the Hellcat and the Power Wagon, both of which use the same part number from the factory. Mobil 1 even says they don't have any engine oil that will work for the Hellcat.
 
Oils that meet FCA's spec have higher moly content which protects the cam and lifters more than the other options. I believe the only ones that meet spec are Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Amsoil, and Redline. Quite a few of the Hemi's are eating lifters, so I would stick with the factory oil. I have always been a Mobil 1 guy, but the Pennzoil seems to be doing good in the Hellcat and the Power Wagon, both of which use the same part number from the factory. Mobil 1 even says they don't have any engine oil that will work for the Hellcat.
I used to run Redline almost exclusively when I was in my teens and early 20’s. Is it still good?
 
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