Replaced Tires Today

[Two]

Call me sensitive. Others may not care or even feel the difference. But there is no doubt a trade off if you decide to run an E rated tire that is 12 pounds heavier than the stock D rated Goodyear. Common sense I know but I had to experiment, its in my nature.

A 12-lb. difference in unsprung and rotating mass isn't hard to feel, but that's the difference in weight, not the difference between D and E rated tires.

An E rated tire will have a stiffer carcass, so when I went with 295s instead of the OE 325s it helped in two ways. Now the tire is also better matched to the rim width for better lateral stability.

As it turned out, the smaller but sturdier 295s weigh exactly the same as the OE tires.

 

[The dude]

Reporting back in...Little bit of drama in the interim, no?

The internet has a way of taking what would be a fun chat over some beers and turning it into who has a bigger dick.

 

[F8Demon]

The internet has a way of taking what would be a fun chat over some beers and turning it into who has a bigger dick.

Coming from the guy that started it, "your wrong.....". "I know more than car and driver......" Good way to try and change the subject though, after you were proved wrong.

 

[The dude]

Coming from the guy that started it, "your wrong.....". "I know more than car and driver......" Good way to try and change the subject though, after you were proved wrong.

You were wrong and the Car and Driver article was not correct on the subject at hand. Doesn't really matter though. In person it would've been a simple 10 minute friendly shit talking and then back to wrenching on something.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

I can’t imagine there is much difference in the truck world, but coming from the high performance racing world, tire pressure is dependent on both size and the individual tire design.

The best way I have ever heard it explained to visualize is imagine cutting the tire through the center in a vertical-lateral plane and then looking at it from the longitudinal axis (along the vehicle). This gives you the profile of the contact patch with the pavement. The goal is to achieve a uniform contact patch with the appropriate tread portion. Over-inflated and you eat up the center from ballooning and under-inflated and you eat up the outer edges from sidewall collapse. Simple enough and I think we all know that. Well that profile you are looking to achieve to hold up the weight of the vehicle is created by both tire pressure and the structural format (rigidity) of the tire. Most is pressure but there is a portion to do with the tire construction.

Therefore, even if you stay with the exact same tire size, the optimal inflation pressure can change based on the tire construction. In the performance racing world that might only be a 1-2 PSI change but it matters.

 

[F8Demon]

You were wrong and the Car and Driver article was not correct on the subject at hand. Doesn't really matter though. In person it would've been a simple 10 minute friendly shit talking and then back to wrenching on something.

Whatever helps you sleep at night, go back and read the thread, or try answering post 32 or any of the other ones that disproved you, you are wrong, and don't have a great understanding of basic science. Many things go into the PSI recommendation, has little to do with max load capacity of a tire. Have a nice day!

 

[TRX88]

I installed Innov8 600 rims and Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires last week. Stock sizing.

The truck feels totally different, definitely not as snappy off the line. Rides firmer. Jittery even.

Like the valving does not like the increase in weight. It just unsettled the truck in every way.

The Goodyears are going back on the Innov8's tomorrow and will report back.

Anyone else have the same experience?

I’d just like to see a picture of the innov8

 

[Two]

Well that profile you are looking to achieve to hold up the weight of the vehicle is created by both tire pressure and the structural format (rigidity) of the tire. Most is pressure but there is a portion to do with the tire construction.

Therefore, even if you stay with the exact same tire size, the optimal inflation pressure can change based on the tire construction. In the performance racing world that might only be a 1-2 PSI change but it matters.

If we go into the finer details, rim width also plays a role. And not only by changing the volume in the tire.

 

[AZDinoPwr]

If we go into the finer details, rim width also plays a role. And not only by changing the volume in the tire.

Yes it does, as do a myriad of other factors. But for sake of this discussion, the point being that if everything remains the same EXCEPT you change the tire brand/model that you still might need to alter the PSI.

 

[The dude]

Whatever helps you sleep at night, go back and read the thread, or try answering post 32 or any of the other ones that disproved you, you are wrong, and don't have a great understanding of basic science. Many things go into the PSI recommendation, has little to do with max load capacity of a tire. Have a nice day!

We don't care about the max load capacity of the tire. That's not the discussion. The load capacity of the tire is a function of pressure and varies based on tire size/brand/rating/etc. The OEM tire pressure is set so that the OEM tire is inflated to the proper amount to support the weight of the truck. A different tire may require a different pressure to achieve the same weight bearing capability. Not sure how else to explain that to you in a way you can understand. As I showed earlier, switching tire types even within the same size 100% can and does have an effect on the pressure required to have the factory recommended load capacity.

 

[Two]

Yes it does, as do a myriad of other factors. But for sake of this discussion, the point being that if everything remains the same EXCEPT you change the tire brand/model that you still might need to alter the PSI.

Yeah, there's much more to it. For example, as you know, the vehicle manufacturer's recommended pressure (which is obviously for the OE tires and wheels) is for full GVWR. Anything below that should have lower inflation pressures accordingly.

Then there's personal preference. I don't really care about tread life, so the tire pressure is often dialed in to produce the handling I want instead.

 

[BusaDave]

That’s some good feedback. I’m interested to hear your results after the change back.

I’m planning to swap for some ridge grapplers and according to @BusaDave I should be happy with them. I am very curious about my stating that he runs them at 60psi. That seems high. I don’t have a truck yet, but what PSI is recommended on the sticker in the door?

LOL the sticker on the door is for the Factory Tires Only.

 

[TheBoz]

Put the Nitto Ridge Grapplers one a couple of hours ago. Did the same size 325/65-18 but these are a heavier much tougher tire with 3 ply sidewalls which I have to have. The sidewalls on the OEM Goodyears are very thin which is how they were able to get the speed rating along with a lighter weight I am sure. Have them aired to 60psi max is 65 and immediately noticed a few things when driving it home the long way. First is the truck on the highway was firmer as expected which I love however, it does seem to also track better and the handling is a little more crisp. The biggest surprise and will do a lot more testing on my next trip to NM late next week is the miles per gallon average increased .5 mpg just in the 20 miles I put on it. Seems to roll easier coasting up to stop lights, now this may be at the expense of traction on the pavement doing a full power launch I do not know.

The bottom line is they are very smooth with limited highway running at 65 for just a few miles most weight it took to balance was 4.0 the least was 2.75. Very happy and will not worry when I am at the ranch about killing a sidewall as much. Now when I get my windshield replaced on Friday with a Mopar piece of glass will be ready to road trip it.

I am also concerned about performance when it comes to changing wheels and tires. From what I could gather, the stock tires weights 62 lbs, and the stock wheels are 30 lbs. The same Nitto Ridge Grapplers I am looking to purchase weights 78.26 lbs for size 325/50R22. The 22x10 wheels weigh 45 lbs. That is an additional 31.26 lbs per wheel or a 125.04 total in weight. I am not sure if you calculated the weight difference just with your tire change. I foresee a couple of MPG decreases and performance losses with the gain in weight in my situation.

 

[Two]

I foresee a couple of MPG decreases and performance losses with the gain in weight in my situation.

For every action, there's an equal and opposite reaction.

If you added 125 lbs. somewhere else on the vehicle, it wouldn't be that big of a deal, but in unsprung and rotating mass that is huge.

 

[uthorns1976]

My brother is picking up his brand new TRX on Monday. $5,000 over sticker price...UGGHH. How many miles should he put on the Goodyear tires before considering replacing them? He will be driving on pavement most of the time. Also, should he consider tire warranty from some place like Discount Tire?? Thank you.

 

[Jesse56]

I'm at 10k and they look new still

 

[RTG]

I have always considered tires a regional issue. I have been very impressed with the OEM Goodyears. Great traction, great tracking, great four season performance. Of course different environments need different tires. If I lived in Arizona, I wouldn't use this tire. I would want harder rubber and thicker sidewalls.

I just passed 25K on the OEM tires. Though they can go further, I will replace them at the end of summer as to have the best traction for this winter's snow and ice. I will stick with the OEM Goodyears as they have been fantastic. For a real four season environment, these are great. They go through snow and ice good enough that I have not considered buying winter tires. I don't remember slipping on ice with these Goodyears. Great traction in the dry season. I have my 'own personal autobahn' and spend a fair amount of time over 100MPH. These tires have always been confidence inspiring.

 

[10mpg]

I wish some of the guys on here that did tire/wheel changes would actually do performance testing before and after to show the affect these heavier wheels and tires have on 60 ft, 0-60 times, etc at a bare minimum. We have the fastest non electric truck on the market, why make it slower?

 

[Dudebro]

I wish some of the guys on here that did tire/wheel changes would actually do performance testing before and after to show the affect these heavier wheels and tires have on 60 ft, 0-60 times, etc at a bare minimum. We have the fastest non electric truck on the market, why make it slower?

37x12.5r18 toyo rts on KMC wheels dropped my 0-60 by .7 seconds. I'll eventually do a pulley or something to get back to stock but the extra tire makes a big difference when offroad.

 

[10mpg]

37x12.5r18 toyo rts on KMC wheels dropped my 0-60 by .7 seconds. I'll eventually do a pulley or something to get back to stock but the extra tire makes a big difference when offroad.

Makes sense, and not that surprising. Just boils down to how you're using the truck of course. My off roading use is light so I'm trying to keep the weight down and the performance numbers up.