I wish our forum had more offroad focused threads like this! (And we could ban all the 1/4 mile guys lol…. Just kidding….. sort of)
But gone are the days of e rated or 10 ply meaning 10 actual plies… and a certain level of stiffness.
It’s usually just 4 plies of mixed materials, and a varying spring rate.
And then on the end of the tire sidewall, the lip has a bead ring. Some are really thick. I don’t know if that helps retain the tire on a non beadlock. But on beadlocks that thick ring won’t let small beadlock rings seat and they tire ring needs to be shaved down.
That being said, the oem beadlock wheels and the true beadlock ring (24 bolt) is a really nice piece of hardware. It’s funny when people say that the oem beadlock wheel is heavy but then give props to Hutchinson or ultra or omf conversions that all weigh 50-60# lol!
To the OP, take a paint pen and mark the inside of your tire and rim. See how much slippage you have at different pressures.
And then also look at how much wear you have going down your side wall.
But gone are the days of e rated or 10 ply meaning 10 actual plies… and a certain level of stiffness.
It’s usually just 4 plies of mixed materials, and a varying spring rate.
And then on the end of the tire sidewall, the lip has a bead ring. Some are really thick. I don’t know if that helps retain the tire on a non beadlock. But on beadlocks that thick ring won’t let small beadlock rings seat and they tire ring needs to be shaved down.
That being said, the oem beadlock wheels and the true beadlock ring (24 bolt) is a really nice piece of hardware. It’s funny when people say that the oem beadlock wheel is heavy but then give props to Hutchinson or ultra or omf conversions that all weigh 50-60# lol!
To the OP, take a paint pen and mark the inside of your tire and rim. See how much slippage you have at different pressures.
And then also look at how much wear you have going down your side wall.
