New Klein TRX(specific) 730 Bolt-on Airhorns

[DynoDNA]

I got my truck back which is great. As always these guys did a fan-effing-tastic job with everything. The horn is LOUD! I mean ... LOOOOOOUD! You can literally feel the blast hit you 20+ feet away. Perfect lol

Meanwhile, everything is now installed thanks to the guys at the shop I use knowing their shit. Literally making things work and cleaning up someone else's mess. The kit itself I will never use again. If I ever have to replace this stuff I am going 100% with another company due to this experience.

I have not seen the bill yet but I am estimating that the labor on this will cost me more than the horn kit and truthfully I will have no problem paying these guys for the work that they did because as far as I am concerned the made it better. It has more flow, more air throughput, LOUDER than any finger blaster kit that Kleinn sold me and it just works.

The compressor is a bit slow. One blast is a 8+ minute recharge which is a bit worrisome. I don't expect instant recharge capability by any means but I would have thought that the compressor could do a bit better than it is doing to refill that air tank.

The sniper module is worthless. The solder on the pressure switch was colder than Freyja's right titsicle and ridiculous as seen above.

Choo choo ...

 

[dave summer]

I got my truck back which is great. As always these guys did a fan-effing-tastic job with everything. The horn is LOUD! I mean ... LOOOOOOUD! You can literally feel the blast hit you 20+ feet away. Perfect lol

Meanwhile, everything is now installed thanks to the guys at the shop I use knowing their shit. Literally making things work and cleaning up someone else's mess. The kit itself I will never use again. If I ever have to replace this stuff I am going 100% with another company due to this experience.

I have not seen the bill yet but I am estimating that the labor on this will cost me more than the horn kit and truthfully I will have no problem paying these guys for the work that they did because as far as I am concerned the made it better. It has more flow, more air throughput, LOUDER than any finger blaster kit that Kleinn sold me and it just works.

The compressor is a bit slow. One blast is a 8+ minute recharge which is a bit worrisome. I don't expect instant recharge capability by any means but I would have thought that the compressor could do a bit better than it is doing to refill that air tank.

The sniper module is worthless. The solder on the pressure switch was colder than Freyja's right titsicle and ridiculous as seen above.

Choo choo ...

Sorry the kit gave you so much trouble but after finishing reading all your posts in this thread I was laughing my ass off with all your comparisons, at least it sounds like you’re satisfied with the blast it makes, just another thing that makes our trucks stand out even more

 

[jimand7]

Okay mine also got installed, and its for one very sound. Upon a cold start the compressor makes a lot of noise for the first couple miles as it's "filling up" with air. That is kind of annoying but worth it. This big truck needs the massive blast. My labor was about 550 bucks. At first they thought I could not have my non electric side steps but they managed to figure that out, they said it was a bit of a headache and took them the better part of a day. They are an authorized dealer for Klein so I got it a couple hundred off the online price. all in it was about 1950. To me totally worth it. I am sorry some of the forum did not have it as easy as me. Let's see how it hold up throughout a Chicago winter. I literally cant even see the horns without crawling under the truck. I give the whole thing a 9.5/10 only because of the loud compressor vibration at start and after using the horn.

 

[DynoDNA]

Got my bill last night and let me just say first and foremost that I am $2800 into labor (plus the price of this horn "kit" turd pile) on the install of this wish.com man-child choo choo horn.

I'm relatively sure that Tobias Beecher feels worse for my wallet than his own anus that was repeatedly stretched by the brotherhood. Stretched by Kleinn™ ... way worse.

It works. It is loud. Probably louder than the actual kit since the lines are now upgraded to be proper. I think the locations of the horns will be fantastic to protect them and keep them undamaged/unclogged etc simply because of where they are. So you know ... silver linings. The compressor worries me. Even with sound deadening matting and anti-vibration matting - which was added by my competent install team and not provided in this over priced "kit" of nightmares - it still makes more noise than my ex and vibrates more than the bulk box of Temu vibrators so color me not impressed.

I think that I can get about a 6-8 second solid blast and this thing blows harder than a Chelsea MA hooker on a Sunday when the rent is due. God help the next twat waffle on her cell phone while I am driving because she is gonna get finger blasted harder than Lily Phillips in her down time.

I am happy with the end result but there is absolutely no thanks to be given to Kleinn on this. HornBlasters would have been the better option and I 100% regret not just going that direction. My decision was based absolutely sole on that this kit was advertised as a customized direct fit for the TRX and I wouldn't have to do relocation, spare tire delete, or anything weird. It was supposed to be mount and go and it was anything but. When I got this thing I was excited as a fat kid about to go to an all you can eat southern style BBQ with a lifetime supply of cake, ice cream, and pie party. Instead the kit was vegan.

So here we are, that is that, my wallet hurts, but I giggle every time I let er rip.

Lesson learned.

 

[jimand7]

Thats such a bummer, what a Headache, you simply must not have received all the parts and apparently some bad ones.
I would never blast it more than 3 seconds, as that's a long time with it being as loud as it is. I don't get much vibration while the compressor is filling, but its loud for a couple minutes, but to me that's worth it. Maybe because my installers are Klein dealers, they had them on the phone to make it only a 500$ install. That said, we will see how reliable it turns out to be.

 

[DynoDNA]

Attempted to email the Kleinn CEO the other day. Did not get a bounce and have not heard back. Left the ball in their court - half the labor would be the minimum that I would find acceptable which honestly is basically the cost of the shit kit. I won't hold my breath but I'm ready to do a chargeback. Giving them until after the holidays to respond. Maybe Jan 8th is fair. Tick tock.

Merry Christmas! Happy Hanukkah! CHOOOO CHOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

 

[SunnyD]

Sorry to revive this thread but in the process of trying to install this kit on my own. Had a couple custom fabricated brackets made for the horn so I could keep my mopar power steps. Air tubing seems self explanatory but need some help with the electrical. What im trying to accomplish is using the horn on the steering wheel, but toggling between the factory horn and the air horn with the use of one of the aux switches. So when aux switch is off, the horn on the steering wheel blows the factory horn and when the aux switch it toggled on the horn on steering wheel blows the air horn instead.

I don't even know if this is possible and I'm no electrical expert but this is what I was able to come up with from other diagrams I came across online and through kleinn. Im sure that im missing things (like in-line fuses for one that I have no idea where they should go but I got some in the kit) but anyone with electrical experience able to tell me if this will work with what im trying to accomplish or if its even possible? Thanks!

 

[Truck_Yeah]

Sorry to revive this thread but in the process of trying to install this kit on my own. Had a couple custom fabricated brackets made for the horn so I could keep my mopar power steps. Air tubing seems self explanatory but need some help with the electrical. What im trying to accomplish is using the horn on the steering wheel, but toggling between the factory horn and the air horn with the use of one of the aux switches. So when aux switch is off, the horn on the steering wheel blows the factory horn and when the aux switch it toggled on the horn on steering wheel blows the air horn instead.

I don't even know if this is possible and I'm no electrical expert but this is what I was able to come up with from other diagrams I came across online and through kleinn. Im sure that im missing things (like in-line fuses for one that I have no idea where they should go but I got some in the kit) but anyone with electrical experience able to tell me if this will work with what im trying to accomplish or if its even possible? Thanks!
View attachment 145910

https://kleinnretail.s3.amazonaws.com/pdfs/How-To-Wire-A-Horn-To-A-Single-Horn-Button.pdf

Have you looked at this wiring diagram directly from Kleinn? . I'm not electrical expert either, but i'm actually just about to wire the horn set that I have installed, but I'm using one of the AUX switches rather than the steering wheel horn button.

I'm assuming you have since you're diagram looks very similar. You seem to be on the right track. Just replace the switch in their diagram with the factory aux switch. And it should work just fine. The factory aux switch is already fused so you would just connect it directly to the relay as indicated.

 

[Tom488]

Sorry to revive this thread but in the process of trying to install this kit on my own. Had a couple custom fabricated brackets made for the horn so I could keep my mopar power steps. Air tubing seems self explanatory but need some help with the electrical. What im trying to accomplish is using the horn on the steering wheel, but toggling between the factory horn and the air horn with the use of one of the aux switches. So when aux switch is off, the horn on the steering wheel blows the factory horn and when the aux switch it toggled on the horn on steering wheel blows the air horn instead.

I don't even know if this is possible and I'm no electrical expert but this is what I was able to come up with from other diagrams I came across online and through kleinn. Im sure that im missing things (like in-line fuses for one that I have no idea where they should go but I got some in the kit) but anyone with electrical experience able to tell me if this will work with what im trying to accomplish or if its even possible? Thanks!

Yes. Aux output to relay terminal 85 (or 86 - doesn't matter). Relay terminal 86 (or 85 - whichever one is NOT connected to Aux) to ground. Output of the stock horn relay (terminal 87) to your new relay terminal 30, relay terminal 87A to your factory horn, and relay terminal 87 to your new horns.

Without the relay energized, the relay connects terminal 30 (common) to terminal 87A (normally-closed output). So when you press the horn, the voltage goes to your factory horns. But, when the relay is energized (by the AUX output), terminal 30 is then connected to terminal 87 instead (the normally-open output) - meaning the output of the horn relay (the stock one) will deliver voltage to your new horns instead.

Note that, unlike your diagram above, the horn switch (the one in the steering wheel) does not output directly to the factory horns. Instead, the factory horn switch controls the factory horn relay (and even then, not directly - but through the body control module, which switches ground to the control side of the factory horn relay, which itself receives constant 12V from a dedicated fused circuit).

None of that really matters to you - simply find the wire harness that connects to your factory horns, and cut the gray/yellow wire. This is the +12V output from the factory horn relay. Consider the side that comes from the stock horns as the "horn wire", and the other side to be the "horn switch wire". Then connect to your new relay accordingly, using your diagram, and my terminal numbers. It should go without saying that you'll need a 5-terminal relay, not a 4-terminal relay (as you need the 87A N.C. terminal for this application).

Oh, and you won't need any more inline fuses, as you'll be drawing all your power from the factory horn circuit, which is a 20A fuse... should be fine for your new horn solenoids.

This is the wiring diagram for the factory horns:

 

[Dubstep Shep]

https://kleinnretail.s3.amazonaws.com/pdfs/How-To-Wire-A-Horn-To-A-Single-Horn-Button.pdf

Have you looked at this wiring diagram directly from Kleinn? . I'm not electrical expert either, but i'm actually just about to wire the horn set that I have installed, but I'm using one of the AUX switches rather than the steering wheel horn button.

I'm assuming you have since you're diagram looks very similar. You seem to be on the right track. Just replace the switch in their diagram with the factory aux switch. And it should work just fine. The factory aux switch is already fused so you would just connect it directly to the relay as indicated.

Only thing I would add to that is you could just T-tap your factory horn line and run it to the Pin 30 input, though your factory horn will always sound whether the klein horn is activated or not. Leave the 87A blank. Keeps you from having to cut up factory wiring which I've never been a fan of.

 

[SunnyD]

Yes. Aux output to relay terminal 85 (or 86 - doesn't matter). Relay terminal 86 (or 85 - whichever one is NOT connected to Aux) to ground. Output of the stock horn relay (terminal 87) to your new relay terminal 30, relay terminal 87A to your factory horn, and relay terminal 87 to your new horns.

Without the relay energized, the relay connects terminal 30 (common) to terminal 87A (normally-closed output). So when you press the horn, the voltage goes to your factory horns. But, when the relay is energized (by the AUX output), terminal 30 is then connected to terminal 87 instead (the normally-open output) - meaning the output of the horn relay (the stock one) will deliver voltage to your new horns instead.

Note that, unlike your diagram above, the horn switch (the one in the steering wheel) does not output directly to the factory horns. Instead, the factory horn switch controls the factory horn relay (and even then, not directly - but through the body control module, which switches ground to the control side of the factory horn relay, which itself receives constant 12V from a dedicated fused circuit).

None of that really matters to you - simply find the wire harness that connects to your factory horns, and cut the gray/yellow wire. This is the +12V output from the factory horn relay. Consider the side that comes from the stock horns as the "horn wire", and the other side to be the "horn switch wire". Then connect to your new relay accordingly, using your diagram, and my terminal numbers. It should go without saying that you'll need a 5-terminal relay, not a 4-terminal relay (as you need the 87A N.C. terminal for this application).

Oh, and you won't need any more inline fuses, as you'll be drawing all your power from the factory horn circuit, which is a 20A fuse... should be fine for your new horn solenoids.

This is the wiring diagram for the factory horns:
View attachment 145915

Ok this is all awesome insight thank you! I wanted to make sure I understood it correctly and have a couple other questions to add:

Terminal 86 - wire to factory Aux up fitter switch of choice
Terminal 87 - wire to all 3 solenoids of 3 new horns (ok to run the 3 wires from the 3 solenoids to 1 terminal here)
Terminal 87A - wire to factory horn (this is the grey/yellow wire leading direct to the factory horn once grey/yellow wire has been cut)
Terminal 30 - wire to factory horn button (this is the grey/yellow wire end that is remaining after it was cut, which is the end NOT connected to terminal 87A already)
Terminal 85 - run this wire to a good ground contact in the engine bay somewhere

If the above looks ok, then my questions are:
1- does it matter which up fitter switch I use? I know different ones have different amps.
2- all 3 solenoids for the new horns also have ground wires. do I just connect them somewhere nearby to the frame for good ground contact? or are they all supposed to run to terminal 85 instead and I'm confused in my wire mapping above?
3- this is the yellow/grey wire in the attached picture below that you're referring to that connected to the horn (unplugged from the horn in this picture and the bottom of the 2 wires)?

Appreciate your help! Thanks!

 

[Tom488]

If the above looks ok, then my questions are:
1- does it matter which up fitter switch I use? I know different ones have different amps.

The above looks right.

No - does not matter, as you're only drawing less than 200mA to drive the new relay, so any Aux switch will do. I'd suggest using one of the lower-rated switches, thereby leaving the higher capacity Aux switches for loads that may need it - but you can use any one you wish.

2- all 3 solenoids for the new horns also have ground wires. do I just connect them somewhere nearby to the frame for good ground contact? or are they all supposed to run to terminal 85 instead and I'm confused in my wire mapping above?

Yes - connect the other side of your solenoids to a good chassis/frame ground.

3- this is the yellow/grey wire in the attached picture below that you're referring to that connected to the horn (unplugged from the horn in this picture and the bottom of the 2 wires)?

Yes.

Now - I didn't realize you were talking about running three solenoids. Without getting into the why of that (maybe for airflow/CFM purposes?), that's pushing the current draw. You're getting up around the 20A range. While it will probably be OK, as it's very intermittent use (unless you're towing around an Ingersoll-Rand air compressor), it's something to keep in mind.

 

[SunnyD]

The above looks right.

No - does not matter, as you're only drawing less than 200mA to drive the new relay, so any Aux switch will do. I'd suggest using one of the lower-rated switches, thereby leaving the higher capacity Aux switches for loads that may need it - but you can use any one you wish.



Yes - connect the other side of your solenoids to a good chassis/frame ground.



Yes.

Now - I didn't realize you were talking about running three solenoids. Without getting into the why of that (maybe for airflow/CFM purposes?), that's pushing the current draw. You're getting up around the 20A range. While it will probably be OK, as it's very intermittent use (unless you're towing around an Ingersoll-Rand air compressor), it's something to keep in mind.

So my horn came one solenoid originally and 1/4 in tubing and then I got an upgrade kit that increased it to 1/2 in tubing and 3 total solenoids (one for each horn) so I assumed since they sent an additional 2 for the upgrade kit that I should probably use them all. I do also have the onboard air compressor and tank from kleinn to send the air to the horns but presume it will still be ok? is there anything I can do to ensure there aren't problems or just hope for the best with the setup? Thanks again

 

[Tom488]

So my horn came one solenoid originally and 1/4 in tubing and then I got an upgrade kit that increased it to 1/2 in tubing and 3 total solenoids (one for each horn) so I assumed since they sent an additional 2 for the upgrade kit that I should probably use them all. I do also have the onboard air compressor and tank from kleinn to send the air to the horns but presume it will still be ok? is there anything I can do to ensure there aren't problems or just hope for the best with the setup? Thanks again

Hope for the best and look for melted wires

 

[SunnyD]

Another question now on wiring the compressor. The guide that comes with the TRX doesn't at all explain how to wire it but there is a diagram in one of the other vehicles diagrams that seems to be what it should be that ive included here.

The part of this diagram that I have a question about is the optional on/off switch to the ignition hot circuit as the rest of it seems pretty self explanatory. The optional on/off switch I assume could just be another of my factory aux buttons? If I however chose not to use one of the factory aux buttons and wanted to wire direct to the ignition hot circuit, what would I splice into?

 

[Tom488]

Another question now on wiring the compressor. The guide that comes with the TRX doesn't at all explain how to wire it but there is a diagram in one of the other vehicles diagrams that seems to be what it should be that ive included here.View attachment 149858
The part of this diagram that I have a question about is the optional on/off switch to the ignition hot circuit as the rest of it seems pretty self explanatory. The optional on/off switch I assume could just be another of my factory aux buttons? If I however chose not to use one of the factory aux buttons and wanted to wire direct to the ignition hot circuit, what would I splice into?

You only need a few hundred milliamps to switch the relay, so any circuit would do. So if you want to be able to turn the compressor off, by utilizing the optional on/off switch in the diagram, then yes - you would just run a wire from the desired Aux switch output to the one side of the pressure switch on the tank, as shown. You would then configure that Aux switch to be latching, ignition power, and recall last state. HOWEVER, if you have an older TRX, that did NOT receive the BCM update to fix the "recall last state" problem with the Aux switches, then do NOT choose this option. But it sounds like you're looking to wire this without an on/off switch, so...

You're then just looking to tap into any ignition-switched circuit, preferably in the underhood PDC, so you don't need to run a wire into the cab. For a similar use case, I just used a fuse tap on this fuse:

That's Fuse #60, a yellow 20A fuse that controls the ECM. It's ignition-switched. I just used a Micro-2 fuse tap, and have a red 10A fuse in the tap position feeding the new circuit (the red wire exiting the bottom of the PDC). This will be fine to power your relay to run the compressor, via the pressure switch.

ETA: Link to Micro-2 fuse taps:

https://www.amazon.com/Micro2-Blade-Fuse-Holder-circuit/dp/B08DLXWTQY/ref=sr_1_5