New 6-Piston Rough Country Big Front Brake Kit - INSTALLED!!

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Looks like we'll be the guinea for the new 6-piston Rough Country drilled/slotted rotors that are coming in today and I wanna make sure I install & bed-in correctly.

• (1) For bed-in procedure, do you guys recommend starting with a series of aggressive or gentle slow-downs (seen recommendations for both). Historically I've done medium to start. Also seen a wild rec to drive for 1 minute around 35mph with the brakes applied while maintaining 35mph and then ur done.
• (2) For brake grease, where do you guys recommend greasing? Caliper Slides/pins & back of pads? Anywhere else?
• (3) Assuming we don't let the master cylinder run dry, is there any need to mess with the ABS module at all?
• (4) Since we're only doing front brakes, is there any need to put the truck in brake service mode?

Just looking for info on these 4 things. Not looking to get slammed for buying cheap brakes or asking these legitimate Qs. There is all sorts of different info out there on all 4 of these inquiries so i wanna get opinions from fellas I trust on the Rex forum. And yes, I've read the RC instructions x2. There's no info in there pertaining to these Qs.

TIA

 

[MurderedCat]

What's your wheel specs again?

 

[Louk]

For bmw M brakes it recommended moderate stops from 35 then increasing to around 60 and hard stops for I believe 10-15 times, then cooling. Those brakes felt like hitting a wall, I would occasionally do a higher speed brake run to try and alleviate the low speed squeaking. It would solve it for a short term then eventually sound like your running on metal in a parking lot

I assume rc has bed in directions in the instructions, they are probably fairly similar albeit with perhaps lower speed or repetition due to the size of the trx.

I think with doing any bed in your ahead of 90% of people on the road to start with.

Very interested to hear your reviews on these!

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

What's your wheel specs again?

20x9.5 (-12)

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

For bmw M brakes it recommended moderate stops from 35 then increasing to around 60 and hard stops for I believe 10-15 times, then cooling. Those brakes felt like hitting a wall, I would occasionally do a higher speed brake run to try and alleviate the low speed squeaking. It would solve it for a short term then eventually sound like your running on metal in a parking lot

I assume rc has bed in directions in the instructions, they are probably fairly similar albeit with perhaps lower speed or repetition due to the size of the trx.

I think with doing any bed in your ahead of 90% of people on the road to start with.

Very interested to hear your reviews on these!

So unfortunately the RC instructions have 0 info on bedding and 0 info on lube/grease. Powerstops we currently run were nice that they came with lube, showed you where to put it, and gave specific bedding procedure.

Def excited to get them on!

 

[sig25]

Bedding or “burnishing” brakes is almost always recommended by specific manufacturers. If RC isn’t including a procedure in the instructions, maybe contact them and ask. If they’re no help, I would use a method that is recommended by any reputable performance brake manufacturer such as Brembo or Wilwood.
As far as lube, I would go with a caliper grease that resists sand, dirt and brake dust. I would clean and lube any parts that are metal to metal contact and would also apply sparingly. As the heat builds, you don’t want any lube contact on the pad braking material or rotors.
Please keep us posted on your results!

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Bedding or “burnishing” brakes is almost always recommended by specific manufacturers. If RC isn’t including a procedure in the instructions, maybe contact them and ask. If they’re no help, I would use a method that is recommended by any reputable performance brake manufacturer such as Brembo or Wilwood.
As far as lube, I would go with a caliper grease that resists sand, dirt and brake dust. I would clean and lube any parts that are metal to metal contact and would also apply sparingly. As the heat builds, you don’t want any lube contact on the pad braking material or rotors.
Please keep us posted on your results!

Good, sound advice thank you sir and will do!

 

[LowPSI]

When I bed in brakes and basically just follow a couple principles.

- Stop about 5 times moderately from 40-20
- Stop about 5 times from 60-5 hard
- Don't stop or ride the brakes during this period
- Park the car without an E brake and let them cool down

The speeds and amount are really just wags based on the weight and types of brakes on the vehicle. Usually my nose is a good indicator of when they're nice and hot. Remember all you're trying to do is transfer a layer of pad onto the rotors.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

When I bed in brakes and basically just follow a couple principles.

- Stop about 5 times moderately from 40-20
- Stop about 5 times from 60-5 hard
- Don't stop or ride the brakes during this period
- Park the car without an E brake and let them cool down

The speeds and amount are really just wags based on the weight and types of brakes on the vehicle. Usually my nose is a good indicator of when they're nice and hot. Remember all you're trying to do is transfer a layer of pad onto the rotors.

Have you heard of the method of driving at 35mph and pushing the brake pedal down (about 25-30% of the way) while still maintaining 35mph? Do this for 1 minute and then the bedding is completely done (absent cooldown of course). I had never heard of that until today but it almost sounds like it could give a smoother more even transfer of material (in theory). It certainly sounds a helluva lot easier to do! I might have to wait till 3am to do a typical bed procedure

 

[MurderedCat]

Might get too hot this way, rotors can warp. I'd do the traditional way.

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

I admit I've only ever dealt with factory brakes, and not an upgrade kit like this, but I've never greased anything other than:
- Back/underside (the part that mates with the bracket) of the pad retention clips (also called the anti-rattle clips)
- Back side of the pads
- Slide pins

Grease anywhere else seems to cause issues on every Mopar I've ever owned.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

Might get too hot this way, rotors can warp. I'd do the traditional way.

ur prolly right

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

I admit I've only ever dealt with factory brakes, and not an upgrade kit like this, but I've never greased anything other than:
- Back/underside (the part that mates with the bracket) of the pad retention clips (also called the anti-rattle clips)
- Back side of the pads
- Slide pins

Grease anywhere else seems to cause issues on every Mopar I've ever owned.

Good shit. Those are the spots I was planning to grease

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

THANKS AGAIN @Nick797 Hoping to get em done tmrw or this wknd!

 

[thewrx]

I admit I've only ever dealt with factory brakes, and not an upgrade kit like this, but I've never greased anything other than:
- Back/underside (the part that mates with the bracket) of the pad retention clips (also called the anti-rattle clips)
- Back side of the pads
- Slide pins

Grease anywhere else seems to cause issues on every Mopar I've ever owned.

No slide pins on fixed calipers.

50-60 to gradual stop, gradually increase pressure, do a few times in a row, then cool for a min or 2 and repeat, till you smell brakes, and dont ever come to a complete stop, and the ebrake thing mentioned above too.

 

[FULLTHROTTLERICK]

No slide pins on fixed calipers.

50-60 to gradual stop, gradually increase pressure, do a few times in a row, then cool for a min or 2 and repeat, till you smell brakes, and dont ever come to a complete stop, and the ebrake thing mentioned above too.

I didn’t even pay attention to whether they were floating or fixed, but could call! Do you think we need to do the brake service mode even though we are only swapping out the front brakes? The manual says it’s required for rear brake service.

I just did a pulmonary bleed on all four brakes last night just to get all the nasty stuff out and make sure everything worked properly and there were no ABS issues before I tore into it. I did not put the truck in brake service mode and everything is good as new right now. Actually breaks a little bit better than it did the day before probably considering I had 3+ year brake fluid in there.

 

[UnloosedChewtoy]

I didn’t even pay attention to whether they were floating or fixed, but could call! Do you think we need to do the brake service mode even though we are only swapping out the front brakes? The manual says it’s required for rear brake service.

I just did a pulmonary bleed on all four brakes last night just to get all the nasty stuff out and make sure everything worked properly and there were no ABS issues before I tore into it. I did not put the truck in brake service mode and everything is good as new right now. Actually breaks a little bit better than it did the day before probably considering I had 3+ year brake fluid in there.

The electronic parking brake uses the rear brakes, hence why thats needed for rear brake service.

I did not realize our brakes had a pulmonary system. Where are the lungs located?

 

[Tom488]

No need to do an ABS bleed, as long as you don't let the reservoir run dry. No need for service mode, as you're only touching the front. On the bed-in process, it's very important to NOT stop with your foot on the brake. When I did my bed-in process, I found an area where I could just keep doing loops without the need to come to a complete stop. If you have to stop, do so by slowing down (downshifting in Sport or Baja mode), shift to neutral, and coast to a stop. The reason for this is you don't want the hot brake pads to leave a heavier deposit of brake material on one part of the rotor.

 

[TReX-RAM]

With all of the crazy stuff you do, are you worried about debris getting stuck in your drilled/slotted rotors?

 

[Wyoming_TRX]

You can get a Smart Diagnostic Tool from Innova and it has the abs bleed built into it if you don’t want to play the pump it hold it game .