List of fluids and volume

bradphish

TRX Fiend
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Hi All, I’ve seen numerous post of how much oil, or transmission fluid. However, I plan to switch to AMSoil and wondered if anyone had a do comprehensive list of types and volume of all fluids.
 
Hi All, I’ve seen numerous post of how much oil, or transmission fluid. However, I plan to switch to AMSoil and wondered if anyone had a do comprehensive list of types and volume of all fluids.
I switched to amsoil as well. Search for Tyler Potter on YouTube for a nice breakdown of what you need fluid wise.
 
This would be great!
 
I switched to amsoil as well. Search for Tyler Potter on YouTube for a nice breakdown of what you need fluid wise.

Thanks I saw some fluid changing videos but not a complete breakdown?

Did you flush and fill or drop the pan of the tranny? What all fluids did you replace.

Ty
 
Engine oil: ~7.5 quarts PUP 0w40

Front diff: .85 liters/.89 quarts Mopar 68232947AB (75w85)

Transmission: 9.5 quarts (dry), Mopar 68049954AA

48-13 transfer case: 1.8 liters/1.9 quarts, Mopar 68049954AA

Rear diff: 2.69 liters/2.84 quarts, Mopar 68218657AB (75w140)

Engine coolant: 18.7 quarts
Intercooler: 3.75 quarts
Mopar 68163848AB (concentrate) or 68163849AB (50/50 premix)

I don’t like getting caught with my pants down in the middle of a project so I bought 2 quarts for the front diff, 3 for the transfer case, and 3 for the rear diff. Used the Mopar in the transfer case and Red Line in the diffs and engine. Haven’t touched the trans yet, that’ll be a 50k service for me. I bypassed it’s thermostat so that fluid is living an easier life at least.
 
Engine oil: ~7.5 quarts PUP 0w40

Front diff: .85 liters/.89 quarts Mopar 68232947AB (75w85)

Transmission: 9.5 quarts (dry), Mopar 68049954AA

48-13 transfer case: 1.8 liters/1.9 quarts, Mopar 68049954AA

Rear diff: 2.69 liters/2.84 quarts, Mopar 68218657AB (75w140)

Engine coolant: 18.7 quarts
Intercooler: 3.75 quarts
Mopar 68163848AB (concentrate) or 68163849AB (50/50 premix)

I don’t like getting caught with my pants down in the middle of a project so I bought 2 quarts for the front diff, 3 for the transfer case, and 3 for the rear diff. Used the Mopar in the transfer case and Red Line in the diffs and engine. Haven’t touched the trans yet, that’ll be a 50k service for me. I bypassed it’s thermostat so that fluid is living an easier life at least.
you bypassed the thermostat? how do you do that? my trans temp has been between 200-220 just normal driving. im at 45k looking to change the trans flid with Ravenol fluid.
 
you bypassed the thermostat? how do you do that? my trans temp has been between 200-220 just normal driving. im at 45k looking to change the trans flid with Ravenol fluid.

It’s pretty expensive for a piece of aluminum with 4 holes in it, but it does work well.
 

It’s pretty expensive for a piece of aluminum with 4 holes in it, but it does work well.
Does that block do anything special, or could the lines just be disconnected from the bypass and connected together with fittings?
 
Does that block do anything special, or could the lines just be disconnected from the bypass and connected together with fittings?
I'm not sure. I'm gonna crawl under the truck tomorrow and see where this block is located. I'm definitely looking into it. Wonder if the trans temp being lower will give ya less mpg?
 
Does that block do anything special, or could the lines just be disconnected from the bypass and connected together with fittings?
The lines don’t go straight in and out, one is offset a quite bit so you’d need to have a line bent to go between. Can’t just hook the pipes right to each other with some off the shelf couplings.
I'm not sure. I'm gonna crawl under the truck tomorrow and see where this block is located. I'm definitely looking into it.
See above but if you want to take a peek at the thermostat, it’s on the drivers side of the trans, somewhat obscured by the front driveshaft. To your other question, I rarely see over 160* anymore. The original thermostat doesn’t even open until 180* or so. Obviously there is still a limit to what the system can cool but this gives it the best chance.
Wonder if the trans temp being lower will give ya less mpg?
Efficiency is the only reason they run the fluid boiling hot, so probably. But nothing me or anyone else would notice. Gotta remember they are chasing even the smallest gains for the EPA tests, which often don't even translate to how we drive.
 
The lines don’t go straight in and out, one is offset a quite bit so you’d need to have a line bent to go between. Can’t just hook the pipes right to each other with some off the shelf couplings.
Thanks.
Guess I'll be ordering one of them
 
The lines don’t go straight in and out, one is offset a quite bit so you’d need to have a line bent to go between. Can’t just hook the pipes right to each other with some off the shelf couplings.

See above but if you want to take a peek at the thermostat, it’s on the drivers side of the trans, somewhat obscured by the front driveshaft. To your other question, I rarely see over 160* anymore. The original thermostat doesn’t even open until 180* or so. Obviously there is still a limit to what the system can cool but this gives it the best chance.

Efficiency is the only reason they run the fluid boiling hot, so probably. But nothing me or anyone else would notice. Gotta remember they are chasing even the smallest gains for the EPA tests, which often don't even translate to how we drive.
Thanks for the great explanation. I'll be ordering one also. Has anyone changed the trans oil yet with ravenol??
 
@OnTheReel

Is it pretty easy to install? Any special tools or is it straight forward? with our summers here anything to reduce internal temperatures of fluids is big. Our Sequoia has a tranny cooler, but recently( i think 2018+) Toyota stopped including these stating their fluid was designed to work w/o it.
 
@OnTheReel

Is it pretty easy to install? Any special tools or is it straight forward? with our summers here anything to reduce internal temperatures of fluids is big. Our Sequoia has a tranny cooler, but recently( i think 2018+) Toyota stopped including these stating their fluid was designed to work w/o it.
It’s uncomfortable but straightforward. No special tools. Just a wrench. Had to drop the center skid plate for access. Dropping the front driveshaft would probably be ideal but I decided to do without. It’s in the way but I worked around it. Fluid loss was minimal, maybe a few oz.
 
The CAT is like right in the way. Should be fun using wrenches to get this out while it drips on you! Lol
1000012595.jpg
 
The CAT is like right in the way. Should be fun using wrenches to get this out while it drips on you! LolView attachment 129134
Hey, I did say it was uncomfortable for a reason! The cat really isn’t a problem though. It’s everything else, so you kinda have to go over the top of all that shit and reach down.
 
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