Grenaded tranny??

Likely too late for @FULLTHROTTLERICK but everyone else should consider the Mishimoto TBV to bring operating temps down considerably. This will give the factory fluid and the transmission itself a much better shot at survival. I would also recommend regular servicing and upgrading to Red Line D6, Amsoil, or HPL Green CC.

The TRX will definitely expose any weakness within the 8HP95, especially when adding weight and/or adding power. It will also expose weakness in the OEM service interval (which is never), and the factory fill which is an average at best semi-synthetic oil that certainly won’t last forever at the temps seen in these trucks.

@OnTheReel
For those of us in the Deep South / Gulf Coast would the Revmax bypass be a better option? It might get below 25F once every 2-3 years and that for ~5-6 hours and I'll drive the other beaters.

But I will definitely look at changing out the fluid at 10K miles...at my rate maybe in the Spring or early summer
 
@OnTheReel
For those of us in the Deep South / Gulf Coast would the Revmax bypass be a better option? It might get below 25F once every 2-3 years and that for ~5-6 hours and I'll drive the other beaters.

But I will definitely look at changing out the fluid at 10K miles...at my rate maybe in the Spring or early summer
Do you really think every 10k is necessary? I def dont have the bandwidth for that unless they come out with a way to change without dropping pan/etc
 
Do you really think every 10k is necessary? I def dont have the bandwidth for that unless they come out with a way to change without dropping pan/etc
Of course not. My TRX doesn't get driven enough...so for me 10K is probably when most folks are at 30K. and I rather put in the "Good Stuff" early.

I now "unfortunately" only go into the office once every 2-3 weeks. but the "office" is on a Rig in the Gulf
 
Of course not. My TRX doesn't get driven enough...so for me 10K is probably when most folks are at 30K. and I rather put in the "Good Stuff" early.

I now "unfortunately" only go into the office once every 2-3 weeks. but the "office" is on a Rig in the Gulf
Yea i hear ya. Sounds like a fun office compared to most!
 
@OnTheReel
For those of us in the Deep South / Gulf Coast would the Revmax bypass be a better option? It might get below 25F once every 2-3 years and that for ~5-6 hours and I'll drive the other beaters.

But I will definitely look at changing out the fluid at 10K miles...at my rate maybe in the Spring or early summer
I'm in Houston and run the Mishimoto thermostat. There's really no reason to run a full bypass.
 
I'm in Houston and run the Mishimoto thermostat. There's really no reason to run a full bypass.
You talking about the Mishi TBV or a separate T-stat? I just pulled the trigger on the Mishi TBV. Wondering if i need anything else to install other than the o-ring kit.
 
You talking about the Mishi TBV or a separate T-stat? I just pulled the trigger on the Mishi TBV. Wondering if i need anything else to install other than the o-ring kit.
No, you’re good. It’s a really simple install and you won’t lose enough fluid to matter. If you bought the exact model I listed it has a thermostat pre-installed (and also comes with a fitting if you wanted to run it without the thermostat).

I will be curious to see your temps after install. Doing the stuff you do (on 40s no less) is a great stress test. And again, you will have the option to run it without the thermostat if needed. But I think between the lower opening temperature and much better flow through the fitting, this will be fine for you even with the thermostat installed.
 
Of course not. My TRX doesn't get driven enough...so for me 10K is probably when most folks are at 30K. and I rather put in the "Good Stuff" early.

I now "unfortunately" only go into the office once every 2-3 weeks. but the "office" is on a Rig in the Gulf
Honestly it will strike some people as excessive, but I really wish I would have done mine sooner than ~25k just to get the break-in junk out and have a better product in there. Time just got away from me and the job is a slight pain in the ass so I kept kicking it down the road. Doing yours at 10k and installing the Mishimoto at the same time is a solid idea.

I am running HPL Green CC in the TRX and Red Line D6 in my Jeep 8 speed. I would say between those and the Amsoil Signature it’s a complete toss up and would come down to personal preference for a given brand. There’s nothing about any of those 3 that I don’t like. All are huge improvements in base oil quality and stability over the ZF Lifeguard 8/ Mopar.
 
GREAT ADVICE HERE AND I'LL HAVE TO TAKE IT (at least for the next tranny that is haha!)

Sidenote: Since we all look to you as the guru on all TRX fluids, did you have a preference (akin to Redline for engine oil) btwn the 3 ATFs you listed above?
I'm currently using Ravenol 8HP Fluid. Shifts great and haven't had any issues with it. It's around $22 a quart. Previously used LiquiMoly Top Tec 1800 on my challenger. Its around $10 a quart. I didn't like it in that vehicle (might have been mileage/abuse beforehand) but I know lots of folks run it without issue and D&B Automotive in Memphis runs this in their rebuilds. There also used to be a fluid from DNB Automotive called QuantumBlue. They might still make/offer it but i haven't checked in a few years. Their big thing was how it was rated for much higher temps than the factory 8/9 speed fluid which might fit the bill with the TRX. Last, I've heard mixed reviews on the ZF Lifeguard 8 fluid and the consensus is it seems to be equivalent to the factory fluid, but at $15 a quart.
 
Price on the Ravenol 8HP is very steep considering its base oil composition. SDS indicates it is majority paraffinic mineral oil. Likely Group III but CAS number could be used on a Group II or II+ as well.
IMG_0014.webp

It won’t have the cold flow, oxidative resistance or thermal stability of the full PAO options. You can’t “additive” your way around the limitations of a cheaper base oil with complete success, although many companies claim to.
 
Price on the Ravenol 8HP is very steep considering its base oil composition. SDS indicates it is majority paraffinic mineral oil. Likely Group III but CAS number could be used on a Group II or II+ as well. View attachment 151855
It won’t have the cold flow, oxidative resistance or thermal stability of the full PAO options. You can’t “additive” your way around the limitations of a cheaper base oil with complete success, although many companies claim to.

That might be tariff induced. Trying to find the receipt but I think I paid ~$15 a quart for it last year. Either way yes its still expensive for a maybe synthetic oil (EC indicates group III, CAS indicates II), but was cheaper than the Mopar oil which best I can find uses a higher mix of C20-50 Lube. Oil, like the Top Tec 1800 has. Since I had an off experience with the later I wanted to try something a little different and so far its been working fine in -8* to 100* temps. Once I get some miles on it I'll change it out and see how it looks and can report back.
 
That might be tariff induced. Trying to find the receipt but I think I paid ~$15 a quart for it last year. Either way yes its still expensive for a maybe synthetic oil (EC indicates group III, CAS indicates II), but was cheaper than the Mopar oil which best I can find uses a higher mix of C20-50 Lube. Oil, like the Top Tec 1800 has. Since I had an off experience with the later I wanted to try something a little different and so far its been working fine in -8* to 100* temps. Once I get some miles on it I'll change it out and see how it looks and can report back.
For sure, let us know. I generally like Ravenol products. That is, except their stupid pour spout bottles. Running their transfer case oil currently and I am happy with it.
 
I'm in Houston and run the Mishimoto thermostat. There's really no reason to run a full bypass.
Ordered from eBay

Heck. might just do it and git er done and not worry about it for 5 years or so. @OnTheReel Amsoil Signature for the win? I see it is cheaper by the gallon and not that much more than what I was paying for Valvoline Premium that I just dumped into our Armada.
 
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Ordered from eBay

Heck. might just do it and git er done and not worry about it for 5 years or so. @OnTheReel Amsoil Signature for the win? I see it is cheaper by the gallon and not that much more than what I was paying for Valvoline Premium that I just dumped into our Armada.
Yeah, I haven’t used it myself in the TRX but I know the Amsoil runs great in these transmissions.
 
Here's an unfortunate lesson I learned that can hopefully save someone else some money.

The TCM is integrated into the valve body of the transmission. If you're tuned via HP Tuners and then swapped valve bodies or upgraded the transmission, you will need to acquire more HP credits and unlock the transmission again.
 
No, you’re good. It’s a really simple install and you won’t lose enough fluid to matter. If you bought the exact model I listed it has a thermostat pre-installed (and also comes with a fitting if you wanted to run it without the thermostat).

I will be curious to see your temps after install. Doing the stuff you do (on 40s no less) is a great stress test. And again, you will have the option to run it without the thermostat if needed. But I think between the lower opening temperature and much better flow through the fitting, this will be fine for you even with the thermostat installed.
Yea i dont ever see less than 190-200 on the tranny temps unless the truck was just started lol so looking forward to it as well! I MAY just try & see if the dealer will toss it in for me if/when they warranty the tranny out. That way i dont have to pull even a drop of fluid out of the brand new tranny. We'll see.

Either way, i ordered the exact one you had posted off ebay. Too bad i didnt get it back in May when you posted it. Was a little over $200 after tax/ship even with the coupon and they wouldnt budge even $7 off the coupon price haha
 
Here's an unfortunate lesson I learned that can hopefully save someone else some money.

The TCM is integrated into the valve body of the transmission. If you're tuned via HP Tuners and then swapped valve bodies or upgraded the transmission, you will need to acquire more HP credits and unlock the transmission again.
good to know! Dang unfortunate you had to learn the hard way tho!
 

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